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Reloading setup from scratch on a $1500 budget

SDGator

Private
Minuteman
Feb 1, 2019
46
22
My wife has been after me to sell some weightlifting equipment that has been gathering dust after a (non-related) surgery a few years ago. I finally pulled the trigger on listing it as long as I got to spend the money on "gun stuff" and use that space for a reloading bench. Well, it all sold for $1500 (thanks coronavirus?), and I am good to go.

I have a 6.5 Creed rifle that I'll be reloading for, with plans to eventually reload for some handguns and maybe an AR if I ever get around to buying one. It takes a few hours driving to get to a 1000 yard range, so I'll be doing that just a few times a year. The range I normally go to goes out to 300 yards. My rifle is a Howa that's in a chassis and already shoots around .5 to .75 MOA with Hornady Match ammo.

I'm starting with zero reloading equipment. How would you all outfit a brand new setup? I'm thinking a Forster Co Ax and a Chargemaster Lite. Maybe a Giraud case trimmer or some other case prep station? Maybe an Annealeez? A chrono? Some high-end dies? A crapton of nice brass? What are some of the measurement tools you all use to get the dies setup right (shoulder bump, seating depths and neck tension)?

I'm looking for the most bang for the buck across the whole range of stuff I need, and I can always upgrade different parts as time goes on.
 
Calipers- Igauging origin for 40 bucks
hornady case headspace body and bushings for shoulder
hornady bullet comparator insert for 6.5
That will get you your important measurements.

Good idea on the automated powder throw.

Not sure you need to use half your budget on a trimmer, Id look into the trimit2 for 100 something bucks that you can chuck in a drill you likely already have to power that and chamfer/deburr at the same time.


Id get a redding or forster sizing die and a micrometer seater to make adjusting your bullets easy and exacting, you can go bushing or hone the neck on the sizer but for just getting started you dont need anything fancy if you have trouble finding them in stock. Hornady works well enough and is likely easily available everywhere.
 
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Not sure you need to use half your budget on a trimmer, Id look into the trimit2 for 100 something bucks that you can chuck in a drill you likely already have to power that and chamfer/deburr at the same time.

At around $500, that is one of the more spendy things I'm looking at. I wasn't aware of the Trimit2, though. That definitely looks like a better option for my budget level. Thanks!

I'd pick a chargemaster, a Dillon 550c, and whatever Lee dies and conversion kits you may need.

I've thought about going the progressive press route for doing case prep, and then maybe getting an arbor press for seating bullets. I think I've landed on a single stage press instead so I can focus on learning the basics of case prep, powdering, seating, etc without also having to figure out quirks of the progressive machine right away. I'm definitely thinking of a Dillon down the road, though.
 
With $1500 in-hand there's going to be a natural reaction to go out and get expensive gear and get rolling, but in my opinion you'll be able to get a lot more bang for your buck if you pause and start slow. There are MANY who like the idea of reloading, but when it comes to the time/detail required to do it, they go back to buying factory.

Single stage press and manual/hand tools are the way most people start and they allow you to become very familiar with all parts of the process. Look in the forums or online for people selling a Rock Chucker kit or other setup where they're "getting out of reloading". For $600 - $800 you can pick up press, dies, tumbler, trimmer, scale, debur tool, powder measure, case gauge, shell holders, etc, etc, and then keep the rest for brass/bullets/powder/primers.
 
If you don't want a progressive I'd look at the Lee APP, it's a cheap single stage that can take a case feeder, you could knock out the the prep really easily, and then load the rest as a normal single stage.

It's casefeed/swaging abilities would really help future 9mm and 556 loading if you get into that.

IF it was me

Lee APP for < $100
Some decent dies for - $100
world's finest trimmer - $75
Lee Auto drum - $50
Frankford scale - $35

that's all under $400

I don't know how the priming system on the APP works so that might cost you a few extra bucks to set up

Leaves you a lot of room in your budget for primer, powders, and projectiles (which is what gets expensive)

And then add (instead of upgrade) a progressive down the road for 9mm and 556 loading.

I load 9mm and 556 on a 650 and am planning on getting an APP for prep and complete loading for my 69gr+ stuff


I also have a comlete RCBS single stage setup I don't use that I would be more than happy to sell, shipping might suck though
 
Okay, so I'm hearing to start slow and keep costs down. Sounds like a good plan. I'm definitely don't want to go down the road of getting a bunch of stuff that I don't use.

I hadn't seen the Lee APP before. I'll be spending some time tonight looking at YouTube videos on it. Thanks!
 
Not sure I would jump into a progressive right off the bat but I wouldnt not spend money on automating case trimming and powder weighing to some extent and skipping the hand work.
Seconds saved doing that crap = hairs saved not going bald
 
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You could really use a reloading mentor. I’m sure someone on the hide is in your area. A few reloading sessions would really save you time and money while trying to figure it out on your own. I couldn’t tell you how much I’ve spent on reloading to use just a few of the same things routinely.
 
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No on the 550, I have 2 but I’d start with a rockchucker because it’s just more precise with no flex and you’ll always use one for various things like collet pulling.. Trimsit is cool I have it in .223 and .308 but for precision work I use a manual Lyman or something similar. Trim sit indexes off the shoulder whereas thy manual Lyman indexes off the base like your rifle does. Yes on the chargemaster and micrometer dies

Don’t forget components. Buy powder in the 4# minimum. 8 is better and BR2 primers.
 
I’m one that will say yes to a progressive press like the Dillon 550 or 650. You can do everything you’ll need to for loading precision and if you do decide to load for handgun and AR it will make it a lot easier and much faster to load then in bulk. Never heard of the Trimit2 but looks like it’s perfect and affordable. The RCBS seems like a nice option but if not you can get but with a decent digital scale and a manual powder throw with a trickler. Good Calipers and Dies are at the top of my list as most important.
 
Here's my setup for 6.5CM
Loading: Rockchucker 4- Redding bushing Die- Redding Micrometer Seating Die- Sinclair Mandrel die; Chargemaster Lite- RCBS hand primer
Case prep: Redding decapping die-Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler- Frankford Arsenal Case Prep Station- Annealeez
Measuring: Some brand of digital calipers, cant remember- Hornady Comparator Set for head space and for ogive measurment. Lyman ammo checker- L.E. Wilson case gauge
Components: Lapua Brass, CCI BR 4 primers. ELD 140 bullets. Powder is H4350, but I'm seeing better results with RL16 now.
Shooting: Magnetospeed v3 chrono is a must for load development in my opinion.

This may push your $1500 budget a bit, but its better to buy once and cry once. This will probably be more like 2k.

But as said above, talk to other reloaders at the range. They can give great advice on what you need. Some guys will give you their old equipment or let you borrow a chrono. And this forum is great. Also check the PX to see if you can buy some used equipment.
 
Another vote for a Dillon 550....but not the 650/750. Reason being the 550 can easily be setup just like a single stage, and you index the shell plate yourself, if you even need to index.

You can run it with one die In the first stage just like a single stage and just single load the cases and never rotate the shell plate.

Heres what I would do:
Buy the Dillon BL 550 (basic). Its $300 and excludes the priming and powder setups. However it does comes with a powder die and funnel already set up so you can just throw your Chargemaster charges in that. It doesn't have the primer setup assembly but does allow you to prime, you just have to single load the primers, which allows you to take your time, or use a hand primer until you buy the priming setup later.

Then as you add more calibers, and understand the 550 press better, you just buying the Powder Measure and Priming assemblies and now you have a full blown 550 you can run full progressive.

Just an option....

Like a lot of guys on here have already said, maybe just dip your feet into the reloading world and then see where you're at. The Co-Ax is more expensive than the Dillon BL550 FYI.

Dies -- I'd get the Forster Benchrest set... if you're on a budget. If not, then the micrometer seater.
Annealing-- not sure this is needed just yet, at least not until you figure your load out and shoot more.

Good luck
 
@SDGator before regurgitating a list, I'd ask you the following:
Rifle or Pistol? You said both
What volume of ammo?
How often do you intend to reload?
How much spare time can you dedicate to reloading?
What level of accuracy are you expecting out of your ammo?
Do you want to swap between calibers quickly?
Do you want to leave your dies in a preset position so you don't have to adjust every time you go to load?

These questions all drive the more appropriate solution which in some cases may not be this or that but both. Of course depending on your accuracy requirements and availability, it may be cheaper in the long run to just buy ammo, especially if you count your time invested as a cost.

Let's assume you expect top notch match ammo, in this case, Berger 6.5 Creedmoor ammo is $30 a box/20 =$1.5 round. Reloading components, Berger Bullets $0.45 per bullet, Lapua brass $0.85, CCI BR Primers $0.06, 43gr H4350 $0.19 = $1.54. Then someone is going to spout off but I don't shoot Berger ammo. Ok then Hornady 140 ELD loaded $26/20. Hdy 140 ELD $0.34, HDY brass $0.38, Pri $0.06, Pow, $0.19 = $0.97. Granted I'm assuming you bought a case of ammo and got free shipping. The reloading doesn't include the hazmat, the shipping, or the gas and time spent to track down the components locally. Yeah but what if I reuse my brass? I'm assuming, this is a case where someone insists on shooting factory new brass in a match. If you're plinking, obviously you get to amortize the brass cost, but if you spend 3 hours and make $15 an hour that's another $45 you legitimately have to count in addition to the hazmat and shipping, not to mention, you are amortizing the cost of the reloading gear too.

If you still have the reloading bug then here's a bare bones list most of which can be had in several combo kits.:

Press with priming capability
Dies
Calipers
Powder Scale
Tumbler & media
Case Trimmer & collets / holders as required by caliber
Chamfer tool
Lubricating spray or tray
Powder scoop
Powder funnel
Reloading book(s) relative to bullets you plan to shoot (of course you can get this data from powder mfg websites as well)
Chrono
Bullet puller (for you screw ups)

If you are looking to do volume pistol or rifle reloading then a Dillon would be a good fit because their price is only going up. So buy now or pay later because their warranty, quality and customer service is worth the investment. If you're only burning 50-100 pistol rounds and same for rifle once a month then a single stage might do just as well. If you want speed a progressive is going to be fastest followed by a turret followed by a single stage.

No matter the route there is always a compromise. Factory ammo, you can't find what you need because of the hoarders, components price went up, out of stock or it's been backordered for a year. Then there is the time and cost invested, the piles of parts to manage or more correctly state you lose or misplace etc....

The 550 is a good choice as mentioned but you're not necessarily going to be cheaper than a Forster with s jaws. Forster "normal going rate" you might as well say is $350 brand new when you find them. The Dillon BL 550 $299, Cal conversion kit, $53 or the plate alone is $39 but you still need locator pins if you don't go kit. When you do go progressive you still need the powder funnel / expander if you didn't get the kit. Unless everything you reload has same case head dimension, you need a plate for every caliber, plus the funnel & locator pins. Now counter that mess with what you spend on parts, you will definitely make up for in the less time spent using the 550 vs the Forster.

You said your budget is $1500 if you don't want to jump knee deep, buy a kit and add the extras or find a used kit. A Rock Chucker kit is approx $400. You still need a tumbler, trimmer, calipers and dies. The rest could go on , bullets brass and bang supplies. You you can load more than enough accurate ammo to shoot better than average groups on many of the single stage kits, not to mention the Dillon as well if you go that route since they too have starter kits.

@spife7980 makes the best point so far. The key to reloading in bulk is efficiency and the most tedious tasks are trimming and powder throwing. Automating those two saves time and a lot of aches and pain from repetitive motion. Here again depending on your expectations, a progressive can eliminate the need for the automated trickler. You still need a scale though to set the progressive powder measure unless you throw with a trickler and dump your powder on the fly.

If I started from scratch with a high end budget,
Precision rifle
Autotrickler v3 with AD Scale
Forster Press or Redding Turret
Redding full length bushing dies w/ bushing
Giraraud Trimmer
Lab Radar or Magnetto Speed
RCBS Auto Prime

Pistol
Dillon 750
RCBS or Redding Caride dies

As for measuring tools, you can drive yourself crazy trying to sort and group components. The variances are there, and the question is are you going to see a difference in group size that matters to you vs the time spent sorting and measuring? The Hornady station is nice but I think it's way over priced and I don't believe you can do neck thickness measurements on it. Why they left that out is beyond me. . The Bullet Comparator OAL and the Headspace gauges are worth the cost. Of course Sinclair makes some nice tool as well.

Annealing I've debated but just haven't pulled the trigger because I'm not that obsessed with my SDs and ironically even with the list above, I don't feel like dropping a grand on an AMP.
 
Two schools of thought:

1) Spend lots on the "right" gear straight away

2) Spend lots less on "good" gear, then decide where to spend your money once you've learned a few things and using your own judgement
 
Wow, so many great replies. Thanks so much, there's a lot here for me to think about.

You could really use a reloading mentor. I’m sure someone on the hide is in your area. A few reloading sessions would really save you time and money while trying to figure it out on your own. I couldn’t tell you how much I’ve spent on reloading to use just a few of the same things routinely.
You are totally right on that. I have a friend who reloads for his AR, and he's shown me the basic stuff, but he doesn't really get into the precision side of stuff. I'm in Austin, TX if there are any local hide members who wouldn't mind showing me the ropes. I would really appreciate that!!

Rifle or Pistol? You said both
What volume of ammo?
How often do you intend to reload?
How much spare time can you dedicate to reloading?
What level of accuracy are you expecting out of your ammo?
Do you want to swap between calibers quickly?
Do you want to leave your dies in a preset position so you don't have to adjust every time you go to load?
Rifle or Pistol? Rifle for now and the immediate future. Pistol is more of a distant want. I'd like to focus on rifle for right now.
Volume of ammo? I'm hitting the range around once or twice a month right now. Shooting around 50-60 rounds a time. But I'm assuming that will go up as reloading gives me more excuses to shoot more.
How often do I intend to reload? Probably once or twice a month or so. However often I need to keep up with my range habit.
How much spare time for reloading? My kids are older at this point...high school and up. I'm finally getting some spurts of time where I'm actually bored and casting around for stuff to do. I'm kind of thinking I'll spread out the steps over the course of a week where I spend a half hour or hour a day running a batch of rounds through a stage of the reloading process.
Level of accuracy? I'm able to get .5 to .75 MOA at 100 yds out of the Hornady Match ammo right now. I'd like to beat that level of accuracy, at least, and maintain it out to 300 yards.
Swapping between calibers quickly? Not initially. I'd like to get as much as I can out of the 6.5 Creed. I'm just starting out with my first centerfire rifle at this point. But if it goes the way shotgun did, I was up to 3 trap guns within a year (myself and 2 kids).
Do you want to leave your dies in a preset position so you don't have to adjust every time you go to load? That would be nice, but not essential.


Thanks so much everyone for all the suggestions!!