Reloading supplies cost

[M198gunner]

What I am about to ask has probably been asked a thousand times so do not shoot the "asker". I have done a search but does not seem to give me what I am looking for. If you do not like me asking just do not reply. I am currently overseas with the mil and want to get into reloading when I get back home next year. I know currently everything is in shortage and prices are up, but I will ask my questions anyway.

Questions:
1. What is a fair price for brass (both once fired and new) in 308, 223, 40, 9mm, 38 and 357. Looking more for pre-crazy prices as a reference for buying all supplies. I can wait for prices to come back down if needed.
2. What is a fair price for powder?
3. What is a fair price for primers (all types)?
4. Best re-loading equipment for a beginner? - cost is not an issue, I want what will last and is quality. Single stage vs progressive. I like the reviews for Dillon but not sure if that would be getting in over my head as I start up.
5. Best re-loading book for me to read while I am overseas to get the knowledge?

Thanks in advance.

 

[jwp6114]

It is quickly becoming not the best time to get into reloading. What I mean to say is, with the scarceness and rising cost of components, it will take much longer now to see any benefit than 1+ years ago...

I just paid 65$/500 pc of range pick up 223 brass... Local shops charging 50+ tax for primers, 32$ for a pound of powder... For a long time most good high end projectiles were and some still are extinct...

Folks are still in a hoarding panic driving prices up and supply down. There are talks of customs holding up powder shipments in customs adding to the delay in stocking suppliers... I can't remember the last time I saw a pound of varget on the shelf.

So if you don't mind scrounging brass, using whatever bullets u can find, and using alternate powders away from the popular norm, I'd say you'll be ok, but most don't want to do all that. They either are shooting less, or not at all until supply comes back...

 

[Iamironman]

What I am about to ask has probably been asked a thousand times so do not shoot the "asker". I have done a search but does not seem to give me what I am looking for. If you do not like me asking just do not reply. I am currently overseas with the mil and want to get into reloading when I get back home next year. I know currently everything is in shortage and prices are up, but I will ask my questions anyway.

Questions:
1. What is a fair price for brass (both once fired and new) in 308, 223, 40, 9mm, 38 and 357. Looking more for pre-crazy prices as a reference for buying all supplies. I can wait for prices to come back down if needed.
2. What is a fair price for powder? $20-$25/lb
3. What is a fair price for primers (all types)? $30/k
4. Best re-loading equipment for a beginner? - cost is not an issue, I want what will last and is quality. Single stage vs progressive. I like the reviews for Dillon but not sure if that would be getting in over my head as I start up. My first suggestion is usually RCBS or Hornady. Many will tell you to jump right in to a progressive. If cost isn't an issue, get the single stage, you'll use it for the prep of rifle brass at the least.
5. Best re-loading book for me to read while I am overseas to get the knowledge? ABC's of reloading

Thanks in advance.

I left out the brass price since there are too many variables

 

[sentry1]

If you want a KISS solution to start off with, get a Lee single stage. New ones can be had for $80 from many online stores (IF they're in stock). You've got time, so you can just backorder one and let it show up in a few months.

I put in a Hornady Lock-n-Load adapter on mine so I can swap dies out quickly and without re-adjusting depth.

I like the Lee reloading book. There's a lot of plugs for Lee dies and presses and blah blah, but he does a good job of explaining the reloading process.

 

[lte82]

Questions:
1. What is a fair price for brass (both once fired and new) in 308, 223, 40, 9mm, 38 and 357. Looking more for pre-crazy prices as a reference for buying all supplies. I can wait for prices to come back down if needed.

Depends... 15c for once fired 223/308 would be a good ballpark. You'll pay 3x that for new.

2. What is a fair price for powder?

$18-20lb if you buy the 5-8lb kegs is still the going rate for most stuff, which is pretty fair. $30/lb for the 1lb cans now, whereas they used to be $20-$25/lb

3. What is a fair price for primers (all types)?

3c-5c per primer. match primers cost more than say cheap tula primers. I always pay the extra 2c and get the good stuff.

4. Best re-loading equipment for a beginner? - cost is not an issue, I want what will last and is quality. Single stage vs progressive. I like the reviews for Dillon but not sure if that would be getting in over my head as I start up.

Here's my setup:

Lee cast single stage
RCBS chargemaster (w/ a redding beam scale & lee powder dump as backup) - must have if you want to load stick powder quickly
W.F.T. case trimmers for all calibers (saves tons of time)
standard chamfer tool
die sets for all calibers
Lyman dry media tumbler

If you are loading ball or flake powder, you can get by with a Dillon, but if you are throwing stick / extruded powder, it's not accurate enough and this needs to be a separate step... kind of defeats the purpose of a progressive in my opinion. For pistols and rifle powder like 748 or TAC, it does well.

5. Best re-loading book for me to read while I am overseas to get the knowledge?

Sierras book is pretty decent, but the best way to do it is learning by doing and making your own mistakes. I am still learning and I've been loading for a while.

 

[P7id10t]

If you want a KISS solution to start off with, get a Lee single stage. New ones can be had for $80 from many online stores (IF they're in stock). You've got time, so you can just backorder one and let it show up in a few months.

I put in a Hornady Lock-n-Load adapter on mine so I can swap dies out quickly and without re-adjusting depth.

I like the Lee reloading book. There's a lot of plugs for Lee dies and presses and blah blah, but he does a good job of explaining the reloading process.

I disagree. If cost is no a concern, start out with RCBS or Forster. Not disrespecting Lee, just my observation having owned two Lee presses that they are NOT of the same design or craftsmanship quality as the aforementioned.
Since I see you have 4 pistol calibers listed, go with a progressive to start with, unless you're a numbnutz when it comes to using a wrench. Loading pistol on a single stage is a quick way to give up reloading.

I left out the brass price since there are too many variables

Ain't that the truth....

What I am about to ask has probably been asked a thousand times so do not shoot the "asker". I have done a search but does not seem to give me what I am looking for. If you do not like me asking just do not reply. I am currently overseas with the mil and want to get into reloading when I get back home next year. I know currently everything is in shortage and prices are up, but I will ask my questions anyway.

Questions:
1. What is a fair price for brass (both once fired and new) in 308, 223, 40, 9mm, 38 and 357. Looking more for pre-crazy prices as a reference for buying all supplies. I can wait for prices to come back down if needed.

Don't know fair price because I always used what I had shot out of new boxes. However, just bought 1K 308 for $180. 338LM is crazy expensive.

2. What is a fair price for powder?

Agreed, $22-$30/lb depending on brand. Slow rifle powders generally are more expensive. Popular ones command a premium due to the fooking hoarders.

3. What is a fair price for primers (all types)?

I see $30-$40

4. Best re-loading equipment for a beginner? - cost is not an issue, I want what will last and is quality. Single stage vs progressive. I like the reviews for Dillon but not sure if that would be getting in over my head as I start up.

Never had a Dillon. I have a Hornady LnL. Works great but not exactly the best press for rifle calibers. I do that on Rock Chuckers.

5. Best re-loading book for me to read while I am overseas to get the knowledge?

What, you read? I thought all gunners were supposed to be dumb rednecks....

 

[nnn66]

M198gunner,
I'm in agreement with what these other guys have told you regarding prices. If you search hard enough, you can usually find what you need, eventually, although some powders are simply unavailable anywhere right now. Bullets can be scarce too. Since you aren't in any big hurry, back-ordering supplies would be the way to go.

Just a few years ago, I was in exactly the same spot as you are right now....learning everything from the beginning. In fact, even after a few years of reloading, I still find that I am learning more and more every day. Luckily, I have some local friends who are avid reloaders and have been doing it for decades, so I have some very good resources for info. Other than that, I find information to read online and have read through several reloading manuals, so there is plenty to read while you wait. I would say that any reloading manuals you can get your hands on would be interesting reading.

As for selecting equipment, I just started out with a very basic set-up so that I could get started and then began adding new components as I learned more about what I wanted. My press is a RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme and I have no complaints. I know it's not the absolute best, but it certainly does everything I need it to do and didn't cost too much.

Initially, I just bought a press and the necessities for getting started....scale, calipers, loading blocks, case lube, chamfer/deburring tool, primer pocket cleaning tool, funnel, powder scoops, case trimmer, dies....etc. As time has gone by, I have learned more about what I need in order to achieve my desired results, so I order new and/or upgraded components periodically. Things like brass tumbler, hand priming tool, micrometer seating dies, oal length gauge and other assorted goodies were not required for me to get started reloading, but I discovered a need for them as I learned more.

I would say you just need to get a decent press and a basic assortment of required equipment and then just start learning by doing. While you wait, read whatever you can find on the subject....I find new stuff to read every day! In fact, this particular forum is very good reading! Go to reloading supply websites and read reviews on products too.


For me, it has become a continuous learning process and I have a whole list of stuff I would like to have, but I just piece it all together one item at a time as I have the funds available. My absolute best resource has been friends who are experienced reloaders. I suggest trying to find some guys who have a lot of experience and are willing to let you hang out and watch them go through the procedures. Have fun with it!

 

[Ryan Brownshoe]

I picked up the RCBS supreme deluxe reloading kit from cabelas when I first got started. It's a bit pricey but I have been very happy with it.

Good luck

 

[No1]

Your questions I will answer in return for the full size version of you avatar.

What I am about to ask has probably been asked a thousand times so do not shoot the "asker". I have done a search but does not seem to give me what I am looking for. If you do not like me asking just do not reply. I am currently overseas with the mil and want to get into reloading when I get back home next year. I know currently everything is in shortage and prices are up, but I will ask my questions anyway.

Questions:
1. What is a fair price for brass (both once fired and new) in 308, 223, 40, 9mm, 38 and 357. Looking more for pre-crazy prices as a reference for buying all supplies. I can wait for prices to come back down if needed. clean 308 milsurp $120/500--223 comm $120/1000--40 $50/1000--9mm $50/2000--38 $35/500--357 $60/500 <-all once fired. I would consider these prices to be fair. For new brass, check Midway, Midsouth, Graf's, they are not gouging, what they are charging is fair price.
2. What is a fair price for powder? $24 is about average
3. What is a fair price for primers (all types)? $30 is about the average
4. Best re-loading equipment for a beginner? - cost is not an issue, I want what will last and is quality. Single stage vs progressive. I like the reviews for Dillon but not sure if that would be getting in over my head as I start up.I don't consider it a disadvantage to start with really good equipment. I started loading handgun on a Dillon progressive. If I was to start from scratch, I'd either get a turret press or a progressive that could be used either progressively or single stage. Get a good balance beam scale and a decent set of calipers, powder trickler, and the RCBS loading block.
5. Best re-loading book for me to read while I am overseas to get the knowledge? Maybe the Lyman, it is full of good info, but so are the others. I have Lyman, Hodgdon, Hornady, and Nosler.
Here is a pretty decent write up of getting started How to Get Started Reloading Ammunition

Thanks in advance.

 

[KYpatriot]

#4, Start loading your rifle on a single stage. For precision work a single stage is where its at, especially for learning. Later when you know what you are doing and why you are doing it, you can get the progressive going. I still load precision rifle on the single stage. You will make better ammo on a single stage if you do it right, it helps you focuse on whats going on in each loading operation, and you can use any powder you want since you'll be charging individually. I use a Forster Co-ax, do the research you will find it tough to beat. You'll be passing it down to your grandkids.

On the progressive, I'll say this there is a learning curve even if you are an experienced reloader. You have to be real careful with QC, easier to get high primers or off powder charges. When you have it running smoothly, it is great. I use it for pistol ammo and AR-15 feed, I dont shoot any 223 long range so the progressive is fine for that. Read all the stickys here in the reloading forum, and I'll second the Lyman book thats the one I would start with. Read it and another manual and the info here and you should be able to get started with a good base of info.

The reloading forum is one of the best areas of the Hide...you will find lots of people willing to help here so chime in with dumb questions, take a good natured ribbing, but you will get them answered. You will run into problems, so if something doesn't seem right stop and research and ask questions. Unless you have real "talent" you aren't going to make a mistake that somebody here hasn't seen.

 

[Pinecone]

Questions:
1. What is a fair price for brass (both once fired and new) in 308, 223, 40, 9mm, 38 and 357. Looking more for pre-crazy prices as a reference for buying all supplies. I can wait for prices to come back down if needed.
2. What is a fair price for powder?
3. What is a fair price for primers (all types)?
4. Best re-loading equipment for a beginner? - cost is not an issue, I want what will last and is quality. Single stage vs progressive. I like the reviews for Dillon but not sure if that would be getting in over my head as I start up.
5. Best re-loading book for me to read while I am overseas to get the knowledge?

1. The price is what you pay. Most of us pick up our brass and ask others that do not reload for theirs.

2. By the pound container, $20 - $30 per pound. It depends on the powder. You can get it cheaper by buying 8 pound bottles.

3. Primers at around $30 - $35 per thousand for non-match are a good price. Match/bench rest run higher.

4. I suggest a good single stage press to learn and get started. And you will continue to use it forever. I have a Lyman Orange Crush, which has a slightly longer stroke than the RCBS Rock Crusher. But any of the top brands will work. Then later, get a Dillion progressive. I have a 650 that I use for pistol and .223. I still reload .30-06 and .308 on the single stage.

5. ABCs of Reloading is a good starting point. Lyman 49th Edition reloading manual and Sierra (IIRC 5th edition is current) have a lot of good information. Then get the manuals from any of the bullet makers that you may use.

 

[garandman]

Powder - $25 / lb. $130 / 8-lb

Primers - $30/k

Brass - varies widely. (9mm is alot less material than 50BMG)

Progressive is ALOT going on for a first timer. My first press was a RCBS single stage. I never actually used it. Changing dies all the time seemed really frustrating. Pretty sure Hornady (and maybe others) have some quick change dies that thread into collars that swap out quick and easy.

I actually learned on a Lee Turret press. Lee's stuff is both inexpensive - and cheap. But IMO its good enuf. I still use my Lee press for my .308 and 6.5Creedmoor rifles, both of which shoot 0.50 MoA or better. So don't let anyone tell you you MUST spend big bux to get accuracy.

That said, if you can afford better quality than Lee, get it.

Forgive the analogy, but reloading is like sex... best learned firsthand, not thru books. Check out Youtube vids, if yer a visual sort of guy.... uhh, reloading vids , that is....

 

[M198gunner]

All,

Thanks so much for the info, nice to see this is a place I can come to for questions. Sadly my reloading fun will not start for another year so I figure stock up at fair prices and start researching now. From what you have told me, the prices I have paid to date for supplies is on target with a fair price.

Garandman - I never use the internet for anything other than research, at least that is what I tell my wife .

For pistol brass, is the Starline brass sold new on their site a fair price and is the brass quality. From what I read it is great quality.

Also, what is the shelf life on powder and primers if stored in a dry environment?

Thanks again for all previous and any future feedback.

 

[former naval person]

M198...it will cost what ever you have. If you buy and shoot FGMM you might shoot 500 rounds a year. If you reload, you'll shoot 1500 or so for the money...except...you'll get hooked. As we used to say back in Nam, "Sorry 'bout that."

 

[Pinecone]

I have powder and primers that have been stored for over 15 years. And still work fine.

Starline is good brass. But what caliber and what are you planning on using it for?

There are a lot of places selling once fired brass for a substantial savings over new.

About the only new brass I have bought has been Winchester or RP .45 brass. And the RP was nickle plated to be easier to tell mine from others at IPSC matches.

And I recently bought some Lapua .308 and .223 brass for some precision rounds.

 

[roggom]

OP not sure if you are an expatriate, but if you have a permanent residence in the States, it would be a good idea to consider a Curio and Relics license. For $35 you will be able to purchase the older firearms over the internet, and it also gives you dealer status at Midway and Grafs. Grafs in particular has very good pricing for dealers, prices are better than any group buy I have seen. The ATF is down to about a month for approval, so you can start the process about a month before you come back. You will only need to send the Chief of Police( or other local LEO covering the area of your home of record), a copy of your application. If you do not own or rent a home in the States, it will have to wait until you set one up.

 

[M198gunner]

Pinecone - I mainly shoot 45, 40, 357 and 9mm in pistol. All I see for once fired is the mixed head stamps and with my little knowledge of pistol brass I never know what is quality. For rifle I just buy once fired lake city brass as I know its quality.

roggom - I am military and have no permanent residence in the states. I like the idea though. What do you have to keep the C&R license current?

 

[iShoot17]

M198;

1x (range pickup brass) is not bad to deal with. I have loaded it all and rarely have issues. Some companies may give you a little more hassle (like AMERIC) and can simply be tossed/recycled/scrapped. Don't be afraid to buy range brass, but make sure you prep it correctly and make sure the brass is good to go. If you opt to, sort it by headstamps and load each headstamp seperately. As for prices on 1x brass, those vary significantly based on caliber and quantity bought. But right now is not the time to be looking for things like 223.. Last year, I was about to pick up 223 brass (a bulk purchase) and it came out to each 1K costing $39 shipped, now it is not uncommon to spend $120+ per 1,000.

Pistol Powder (HP-38)- $18/lb is fair.
Rifle (Varget) $23-$25 is fair.

Primers $26-30 for Federal is fair. (Unless going Match, then $33-35)

Bullets, depend widely on what type. (FMJ, Cast, Plated)

I would also suggest that you pick a caliber or two and start that way.. Getting into all the different calibers is a whole lot to start off with. I started with .308, then went to .22-250, then .338, then I tried my hand in pistol with 9mm, and have slowly progressed. There is a lot to learn and shouldn't be done quickly. I suggest picking your favorite rifle caliber and favorite pistol caliber and learning on them, ON A SINGLE STAGE. Once you got them down and have basic down, spread your wings and try the others out. I started with one caliber and now load 10-15 (not nearly as many as some people on here, but none-the-less).

If you need pistol brass, PM me and let me know. I usually have a lot around!

 

[PharmShooter]

From a press standpoint I am a huge fan of Redding and Forster for different reasons. I only buy Redding dies. You may have to multi-source, but you can eventually get everything you need to reload what you have. Again, you may have to be a little resourceful, but you can do it.

 

[roggom]

roggom - I am military and have no permanent residence in the states. I like the idea though. What do you have to keep the C&R license current?

You should have a permanent home of record in your military jacket (well they are not jackets anymore). It is usually the address when you first joined, until you change it. It may just be easier if you submit when you come home, if you get stationed somewhere for a long haul, it will be easier to match your actual domicile with your "home of record" As for the C&R, its easy, you just open a log "bound book" and log your C&R firearm purchases. There is no min or max, just open it like a military log and keep it inspection ready. ( I have never been inspected). Three years later you will get a renewal form and they ask how many firearms you purchased. You only log actual C&R purchases, all others need not be entered.

 

[M198gunner]

iShoot, should I expect to pay more for LC brass. I just picked up 1k each for $125 including shipping in 223, all Lake City and cleaned. I can get what people call range brass for less with mixed headstamps. Seems LC goes for a premium. In 308 its $120 for LC with brass cleaned/polished and primer pockets swaged or $110 for 600 cleaned and polished.

Roggom, will definitely look into the C&R once back.