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Reloading tools: Dial vs Vernier calipers

dpilot83

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Dec 5, 2010
70
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I'm the type of guy that over-analyzes every purchase so I've been researching calipers as I'm getting in to re-loading.

First of all, I've read all the threads that said the Harbor Freight calipers work fine and actually met standards for businesses that were striving to meet certain ISO standards, etc. I understand there is a good chance that if I got a cheap one it would work well for me.

That being said, I appreciate quality and simplicity. As I research calipers, I'm finding that vernier calipers really appeal to me from a simplicity standpoint. There are no gears or any other moving parts that I can't lay my eyes on. There's really nothing to go out of calibration.

I watched a youtube video on how to read a vernier caliper and it seems really easy to me. I am 30 so I imagine it will be awhile yet before I struggle to read it. So I'm thinking about getting one good Brown and Sharpe 6" vernier caliper. Maybe in the future I'll switch to the cheap Harbor Freight dial calipers, but I'll always have the simple Brown and Sharpe vernier one (that should never need calibrating because it's so simple) to use as a reference to verify that I can depend upon the Harbor Freight ones.

So for those of you who have actually used vernier calipers, are they really that bad to use in practice? Am I really going to regret getting it? Or will I only start to struggle with it once my eyesight gets worse? I'd appreciate any feedback. Thanks.
 
My dad taught me to read vernier calipers. Once you get the hang of it they're simple. He could estimate to 0.0001 on his. I don't have a vernier caliper, but when I really care about my measurement I use my dial caliper instead of my digital.
 
I've got a Midway 6" dial (analogue) caliper, that reads to .001" and I've got a Mitutoyo digital 6" caliper that reads to .0005" and I'm pretty well covered for my reloading needs. If you want to go old school, knock yourself out, but the dials, whether analogue or digital, seem to suffice and work pretty well. I also have a 1" digital Mitutoyo micro-meter that reads to like .0001" for measurements that I don't often use and a Hollands' analogue (not dial) ball mic that I use to measure neck wall thicknesses. The latter is worth the investment, IMO.

Chris
 
I own a Craftsman vernier caliper that I bought new 30 + years ago.
I can still read it OK and I trust it is accurate since I take good care of my tools.
That said, I've been trying to justify purchasing a digital one.

I believe a digital one would be a whole lot faster if you have a lot of brass to sort.
 
Vernier calipers are elegant in their simplicity and will measure anything a dial caliper will. The biggest advantage digital calipers offer is being able to reset the "zero".

But, if a really precise measurement is needed a micrometer is the tool to use.

OFG
 
Vernier calipers are elegant in their simplicity and will measure anything a dial caliper will. The biggest advantage digital calipers offer is being able to reset the "zero".

But, if a really precise measurement is needed a micrometer is the tool to use.

OFG

Exactly. I use a cheap digital for pretty much everything reloading related. If, for some reason, I need measurements finer than +/- .0005", then I use a Brown and Sharpe .0001" Micrometer. Zeroing a digital caliper will come in very, very handy when you start to use headspace or ogive gauges that clamp to the caliper jaws.
 
I started with Vernier calipers, then my eyes wouldn't cooperate, so I got Dial calipers. I still mistrust Digital calipers (no real reason, just my own bias). I've pretty much gone with all Dial calipers now. The Verniers on somewhere in the tool drawer..... Other than a digital scale, nothing else is electric or has batteries on my bench.
 
I have a dial caliper and a Frankfort Arsenal digital. While the dial works great, my aging eyes find the digital to be much easier to deal with. It gives me excellent results and I have no complaints. The only trouble I've ever had with it was about a week or so ago when it started giving me some whacked-out readings that I knew could not be correct. Turns out my battery was low. I replaced it with a fresh battery and everything returned to normal.
 
I'm in the digital camp myself - bought a no name digital calipers off ebay 10 plus years ago for around $ 30.00. Have had to put in 1 replacement battery in that time. It seems to be very consistant and reliable, but have never compared it to a very high end dial type or check it's calibration in any way....... With each use, when turning it on, I make a point to ensure it's zeroed and go to town. For me at least with 45 yr old eyes, it's easier to look at a digital readout, as compared to squinting and trying to focus on a bunch of tiny lines or hashes with a dial needle. I'm probably (many would say) fairly anal in the hobbies I have, but have never thought I was coming up short when reloading ammo, but if I am. I probably just can't shoot consistantly enough to prove it's because of my calipers.
 
I started with Vernier calipers, then my eyes wouldn't cooperate, so I got Dial calipers. I still mistrust Digital calipers (no real reason, just my own bias). I've pretty much gone with all Dial calipers now. The Verniers on somewhere in the tool drawer..... Other than a digital scale, nothing else is electric or has batteries on my bench.

I like the idea of not depending upon electricity. Lol. I want to be able to do everything without it if I happen to be in that situation someday.

Anyway, for me it's between dial and vernier. Digital currently is not entering the equation until I have everything else sorted.
 
I used the same 6" Vernier calipers the 2 decades I spent in the machine shop.
I could read them within +/- .001" back then.

Now machining is just a hobby for me and I like reading glasses to read, but I require them to read the Verniers, it's pathetic.

I also used house brand (MSC, J&L, etc.) .100"/rev dial calipers that were equally accurate but easy to f*&% up; if a metal chip got in the gear rack, the brass pinion and/or brass rack was bound to get hammered, and the mechanism would jump everytime you move past the damaged section. Most now have the rack protected by the depth rod so if you leave them closed they are much less susceptible to this type of damage.

I have 20 year old a set of Sylvac Fowler digitals I use for inspection and several sets of cheap digitals I bought off ebay for $5/ea that look just like the ones branded Frankford Arsenal that sell for $20 or so. They are accurate within +/- .002" when I check them with gage blocks. They are more than accurate enough for reloading and so cheap I can leave a few of the lying around the shop, 1 on the lathe, 1 by the VMC, one on the bench.



Joe
 
I started with Vernier calipers, then my eyes wouldn't cooperate, so I got Dial calipers. I still mistrust Digital calipers (no real reason, just my own bias). I've pretty much gone with all Dial calipers now. The Verniers on somewhere in the tool drawer..... Other than a digital scale, nothing else is electric or has batteries on my bench.

Agree except for me dial was just so much quicker, especially if you're tired.Glance and you know. I had a digital for a while but sold it after it needed its first battery. The vernier just sits in its wood box gathering dust.