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Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
I thought the AICS was made to not require bedding?
I thought the AICS was made to not require bedding?
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
how does it shoot like it is without being bedded?
how about a good before and after comparison.
how does it shoot like it is without being bedded?
how about a good before and after comparison.
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
It's your rifle man, but I would not bed an AICS. It defeats the whole purpose of a modular chassis.
It's your rifle man, but I would not bed an AICS. It defeats the whole purpose of a modular chassis.
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LoneWolfUSMC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It's your rifle man, but I would not bed an AICS. It defeats the whole purpose of a modular chassis. </div></div>
Cant hurt, might help.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LoneWolfUSMC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It's your rifle man, but I would not bed an AICS. It defeats the whole purpose of a modular chassis. </div></div>
Cant hurt, might help.
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
Before I would spend the money or time bedding it I would shoot the thing.
Before I would spend the money or time bedding it I would shoot the thing.
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
The AICS shouldn't need to be bedded.
The AICS shouldn't need to be bedded.
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
One of the major advantages of the AICS over the McM and manners and other fiberglass or polymer stock is that it does not need to be bedded. If I were you I'd save that money to buy ammo, but it's your rifle do what makes you happy.
One of the major advantages of the AICS over the McM and manners and other fiberglass or polymer stock is that it does not need to be bedded. If I were you I'd save that money to buy ammo, but it's your rifle do what makes you happy.
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
Barreled action (21" Obermyer 11.25 twist .308) has an oversized recoil lug so the front area where the recoil lug fits into had to be machined out to allow it to fit. After dropping it into place you could hold a flashlight on each side of the recoil lug and you could see light peeking through the backside of the lug between chassis recoil face about half way down the lug to the bottom of it. Means only the top half of the lug is making consistent contact.
Shot the rifle with FedGMM 175 and the cold bore shot was about 3/4" high then the next 3 all touching at POI. Granted this is a suppressed rifle so the cold bore shot could be due to first round going through a cold suppressor or action seated itself back into recoil lug? Let it rest for a while then came back to it and it printed 4 rounds touching, easily a sub 1/2 moa group.
However trigger pull has changed drastically (Jewel HVR) since dropping it into stock so something's touching again (I already had areas removed to allow clearance for trigger group but must have missed something.)
Is action bending slightly to throw the geometry of trigger off or is side of trigger now touching again? (I just looked again and sides of trigger housing are clear of chassis.)
BTW - I REALLY like how this stock feels.
Barreled action (21" Obermyer 11.25 twist .308) has an oversized recoil lug so the front area where the recoil lug fits into had to be machined out to allow it to fit. After dropping it into place you could hold a flashlight on each side of the recoil lug and you could see light peeking through the backside of the lug between chassis recoil face about half way down the lug to the bottom of it. Means only the top half of the lug is making consistent contact.
Shot the rifle with FedGMM 175 and the cold bore shot was about 3/4" high then the next 3 all touching at POI. Granted this is a suppressed rifle so the cold bore shot could be due to first round going through a cold suppressor or action seated itself back into recoil lug? Let it rest for a while then came back to it and it printed 4 rounds touching, easily a sub 1/2 moa group.
However trigger pull has changed drastically (Jewel HVR) since dropping it into stock so something's touching again (I already had areas removed to allow clearance for trigger group but must have missed something.)
Is action bending slightly to throw the geometry of trigger off or is side of trigger now touching again? (I just looked again and sides of trigger housing are clear of chassis.)
BTW - I REALLY like how this stock feels.
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
Sometimes a new action in a new stock takes a couple rounds to seat them together. The aluminum will wear in a little.
I would put about 100 rounds downrange, then re-torque the action screws and drive on.
IIRC there were clearance issues with the Jewell as well as some other triggers in the AICS. If you pull it and see rub marks in the trigger area of the chassis then you can do a little relieving with the dremel.
If that is a work gun then you need to dump the Jewell anyway.
Don't get me wrong. Bedding it may give you a tiny increase in accuracy, but an AI Chassis is not a benchrest rifle. IMHO bedding the action into the chassis will take away some of the utility of the chassis.
Sometimes a new action in a new stock takes a couple rounds to seat them together. The aluminum will wear in a little.
I would put about 100 rounds downrange, then re-torque the action screws and drive on.
IIRC there were clearance issues with the Jewell as well as some other triggers in the AICS. If you pull it and see rub marks in the trigger area of the chassis then you can do a little relieving with the dremel.
If that is a work gun then you need to dump the Jewell anyway.
Don't get me wrong. Bedding it may give you a tiny increase in accuracy, but an AI Chassis is not a benchrest rifle. IMHO bedding the action into the chassis will take away some of the utility of the chassis.
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I would put about 100 rounds downrange, then re-torque the action screws and drive on.</div></div>
This.
You really need to put more than one group through it to confirm that it isn't simply settling in or a simple flyer.
Some people get even better results from bedding...but to each their own.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I would put about 100 rounds downrange, then re-torque the action screws and drive on.</div></div>
This.
You really need to put more than one group through it to confirm that it isn't simply settling in or a simple flyer.
Some people get even better results from bedding...but to each their own.
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SRT Supply</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I would put about 100 rounds downrange, then re-torque the action screws and drive on.</div></div>
This.
You really need to put more than one group through it to confirm that it isn't simply settling in or a simple flyer.
Some people get even better results from bedding...but to each their own. </div></div>
+1. I noticed my AICS screws wiggled a bit after about 20 rounds. Simply retorqued it down and shot like a champ. If you dont plan on removing the stock,I'd add a little midstrength loctite or nailpolish.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SRT Supply</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I would put about 100 rounds downrange, then re-torque the action screws and drive on.</div></div>
This.
You really need to put more than one group through it to confirm that it isn't simply settling in or a simple flyer.
Some people get even better results from bedding...but to each their own. </div></div>
+1. I noticed my AICS screws wiggled a bit after about 20 rounds. Simply retorqued it down and shot like a champ. If you dont plan on removing the stock,I'd add a little midstrength loctite or nailpolish.
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: generalzip</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SRT Supply</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I would put about 100 rounds downrange, then re-torque the action screws and drive on.</div></div>
This.
You really need to put more than one group through it to confirm that it isn't simply settling in or a simple flyer.
Some people get even better results from bedding...but to each their own. </div></div>
+1. I noticed my AICS screws wiggled a bit after about 20 rounds. Simply retorqued it down and shot like a champ. If you dont plan on removing the stock,I'd add a little midstrength loctite or nailpolish. </div></div>
Yup. +1
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: generalzip</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SRT Supply</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I would put about 100 rounds downrange, then re-torque the action screws and drive on.</div></div>
This.
You really need to put more than one group through it to confirm that it isn't simply settling in or a simple flyer.
Some people get even better results from bedding...but to each their own. </div></div>
+1. I noticed my AICS screws wiggled a bit after about 20 rounds. Simply retorqued it down and shot like a champ. If you dont plan on removing the stock,I'd add a little midstrength loctite or nailpolish. </div></div>
Yup. +1
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: generalzip</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SRT Supply</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I would put about 100 rounds downrange, then re-torque the action screws and drive on.</div></div>
This.
You really need to put more than one group through it to confirm that it isn't simply settling in or a simple flyer.
Some people get even better results from bedding...but to each their own. </div></div>
+1. I noticed my AICS screws wiggled a bit after about 20 rounds. Simply retorqued it down and shot like a champ. If you dont plan on removing the stock,I'd add a little midstrength loctite or nailpolish. </div></div>
+1 after 20 rounds give the screws a twist
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: generalzip</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SRT Supply</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I would put about 100 rounds downrange, then re-torque the action screws and drive on.</div></div>
This.
You really need to put more than one group through it to confirm that it isn't simply settling in or a simple flyer.
Some people get even better results from bedding...but to each their own. </div></div>
+1. I noticed my AICS screws wiggled a bit after about 20 rounds. Simply retorqued it down and shot like a champ. If you dont plan on removing the stock,I'd add a little midstrength loctite or nailpolish. </div></div>
+1 after 20 rounds give the screws a twist
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
If after you have shot it in, there is still a space between the recoil lug and the chassis then I would either bed the lug or bed the chassis.
Personally I don't like the idea of the action screws taking the repeated pounding from recoil. If the lug doesn't seat, then every time you fire the screws will take a hit. I am not sure how long it would take, but you could eventually shear the screws off since the system was not intended to take the load from that direction.
Here is one thing I would suggest you do. Loosen the action screws then snug them just barely hand tight. Bounce the buttstock on the table. This seats the action to the rear. Then torque the screws. It may be that you don't have a problem right now, the rifle may have just been torqued with it shifted forward. Recoil will eventually work it out, but your POI may shift as it does.
When the chassis was opened up for the lug, the front of the recess should have been relieved. This should not have altered where the lug contacts the chassis.
Lastly, I feel a massive lug is really not needed and as you see can cause some issues. The lug just needs to be parallel.
I am not a match gunsmith, but I have not been able to see a problem that a fat lug cured.
If after you have shot it in, there is still a space between the recoil lug and the chassis then I would either bed the lug or bed the chassis.
Personally I don't like the idea of the action screws taking the repeated pounding from recoil. If the lug doesn't seat, then every time you fire the screws will take a hit. I am not sure how long it would take, but you could eventually shear the screws off since the system was not intended to take the load from that direction.
Here is one thing I would suggest you do. Loosen the action screws then snug them just barely hand tight. Bounce the buttstock on the table. This seats the action to the rear. Then torque the screws. It may be that you don't have a problem right now, the rifle may have just been torqued with it shifted forward. Recoil will eventually work it out, but your POI may shift as it does.
When the chassis was opened up for the lug, the front of the recess should have been relieved. This should not have altered where the lug contacts the chassis.
Lastly, I feel a massive lug is really not needed and as you see can cause some issues. The lug just needs to be parallel.
I am not a match gunsmith, but I have not been able to see a problem that a fat lug cured.
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
+1, may not need to be bedded
+1, may not need to be bedded
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
Bedding or not....it looks sweet!! wud ya gunna do return the bedding job? No, so that choice is past the point of no return.
If it shoots great and your happy with it, congrats.
Bedding or not....it looks sweet!! wud ya gunna do return the bedding job? No, so that choice is past the point of no return.
If it shoots great and your happy with it, congrats.
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
Well the rifle started life as a custom build. McMillan A5, Obermeyer barrel, it was built it as a competition rig with all the latest goodies at the time. I never liked the way it shot or felt. Sent it off to get the barrel shortened and threaded for my suppressor and re-bedded. Now it shoots tiny little groups. Advertised it for sale but no takers so I decided to keep it and change stocks to SOMETHING that was a folder. Choices being AICS, new Rem RACS (Lord knows when that will trickle down to the masses) & the new AX for a Rem (once again when will that be available to us?)
Stumbled onto this AICS stock and jumped on it. Love it. Simply love the way it feels. I didn't want to use a barreled action with a huge recoil lug but it was the only one I had the fit the bill for this build. When I had AICS machined out to fit oversized lug the machinist only took material forward and downward, nothing at the rear.
When putting the action into the stock I left the action screws a tad bit loose and stood the rifle on it's buttstock and gave it a few "seating" whacks onto the floor. That moved the recoil lug back into contact with the contact face of the chassis. I thought all was well but when I shined a flashlight behind the lug and look from the side there is light sneaking through the backside of the lug below the half way point down. I figured that 100% of the backside of the recoil lug should be in contact instead of just the top half. Just my thoughts but...
I took the rifle out today and it was windy, windy, WINDY here in Denver so I didn't get a chance to shoot for group but I tossed some rounds downrange and re-torqued the action screws. I'll dig it out next week when I get a free day and go test it on paper.
Guess I'll just shoot it and see how it performs for me. So far I really can't say it's bad as the groups so far have been respectable and I haven't handloaded for it yet. I'll try two different handloads in it next week and see what it does.
Thanks for all the suggestions guys - that is what this board is all about.
Well the rifle started life as a custom build. McMillan A5, Obermeyer barrel, it was built it as a competition rig with all the latest goodies at the time. I never liked the way it shot or felt. Sent it off to get the barrel shortened and threaded for my suppressor and re-bedded. Now it shoots tiny little groups. Advertised it for sale but no takers so I decided to keep it and change stocks to SOMETHING that was a folder. Choices being AICS, new Rem RACS (Lord knows when that will trickle down to the masses) & the new AX for a Rem (once again when will that be available to us?)
Stumbled onto this AICS stock and jumped on it. Love it. Simply love the way it feels. I didn't want to use a barreled action with a huge recoil lug but it was the only one I had the fit the bill for this build. When I had AICS machined out to fit oversized lug the machinist only took material forward and downward, nothing at the rear.
When putting the action into the stock I left the action screws a tad bit loose and stood the rifle on it's buttstock and gave it a few "seating" whacks onto the floor. That moved the recoil lug back into contact with the contact face of the chassis. I thought all was well but when I shined a flashlight behind the lug and look from the side there is light sneaking through the backside of the lug below the half way point down. I figured that 100% of the backside of the recoil lug should be in contact instead of just the top half. Just my thoughts but...
I took the rifle out today and it was windy, windy, WINDY here in Denver so I didn't get a chance to shoot for group but I tossed some rounds downrange and re-torqued the action screws. I'll dig it out next week when I get a free day and go test it on paper.
Guess I'll just shoot it and see how it performs for me. So far I really can't say it's bad as the groups so far have been respectable and I haven't handloaded for it yet. I'll try two different handloads in it next week and see what it does.
Thanks for all the suggestions guys - that is what this board is all about.
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
SAimply beautiful rifle. Give us a range report when you get it back
SAimply beautiful rifle. Give us a range report when you get it back
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
Oh yes GRIM, you can shoot for groups even in Denver winds. Just cut yourself some slack on the horizontal spread (don't worry about those) and make sure the vertical spread stays under control.
Oh yes GRIM, you can shoot for groups even in Denver winds. Just cut yourself some slack on the horizontal spread (don't worry about those) and make sure the vertical spread stays under control.
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1367430
Came across the above thread whilst researching - makes interesting reading.
I'm buying a 2nd hand ACIS to add to the collection which has had the recoil lug milled out to accommodate an oversized lug. The problem is that I'm going to put a standard Rem lug back in. I was just going to fill the space with devcon without bedding the action fully but after reading the above may end up fully bedding. Will have to see how much stress is on the action with just the tang screw tightened down.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1367430
Came across the above thread whilst researching - makes interesting reading.
I'm buying a 2nd hand ACIS to add to the collection which has had the recoil lug milled out to accommodate an oversized lug. The problem is that I'm going to put a standard Rem lug back in. I was just going to fill the space with devcon without bedding the action fully but after reading the above may end up fully bedding. Will have to see how much stress is on the action with just the tang screw tightened down.
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jagged77</div><div class="ubbcode-body">http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1367430
Came across the above thread whilst researching - makes interesting reading.
I'm buying a 2nd hand ACIS to add to the collection which has had the recoil lug milled out to accommodate an oversized lug. The problem is that I'm going to put a standard Rem lug back in. I was just going to fill the space with devcon without bedding the action fully but after reading the above may end up fully bedding. Will have to see how much stress is on the action with just the tang screw tightened down. </div></div>
if the lug recess was opened up properly (material only removed from the front of the recess leaving the rear untouched), a standard lug should still fit in exactly as it does in an unmodified aics. personally, i wouldn't worry about bedding an aics. i've been winning matches with an unbedded aics.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jagged77</div><div class="ubbcode-body">http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1367430
Came across the above thread whilst researching - makes interesting reading.
I'm buying a 2nd hand ACIS to add to the collection which has had the recoil lug milled out to accommodate an oversized lug. The problem is that I'm going to put a standard Rem lug back in. I was just going to fill the space with devcon without bedding the action fully but after reading the above may end up fully bedding. Will have to see how much stress is on the action with just the tang screw tightened down. </div></div>
if the lug recess was opened up properly (material only removed from the front of the recess leaving the rear untouched), a standard lug should still fit in exactly as it does in an unmodified aics. personally, i wouldn't worry about bedding an aics. i've been winning matches with an unbedded aics.
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 300sniper</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jagged77</div><div class="ubbcode-body">http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1367430
Came across the above thread whilst researching - makes interesting reading.
I'm buying a 2nd hand ACIS to add to the collection which has had the recoil lug milled out to accommodate an oversized lug. The problem is that I'm going to put a standard Rem lug back in. I was just going to fill the space with devcon without bedding the action fully but after reading the above may end up fully bedding. Will have to see how much stress is on the action with just the tang screw tightened down. </div></div>
if the lug recess was opened up properly (material only removed from the front of the recess leaving the rear untouched), a standard lug should still fit in exactly as it does in an unmodified aics. personally, i wouldn't worry about bedding an aics. i've been winning matches with an unbedded aics. </div></div>
Thanks 300sniper - yes it has been opened up properly, only the front has been milled away leaving the back face untouched. I have (like you) had fantastic results with unbedded AICS on my .223 and .300WM - for me the fact that they are a straight forward drop in is one of their best features. My plan was always going to be to shoot this stock as is anyway - if it shoots I'll leave it alone.
My biggest concern about bedding an AICS was that you take away its 'modular' advantage and make it unique to that action. Not ideal for resale or new rifle project.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 300sniper</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jagged77</div><div class="ubbcode-body">http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1367430
Came across the above thread whilst researching - makes interesting reading.
I'm buying a 2nd hand ACIS to add to the collection which has had the recoil lug milled out to accommodate an oversized lug. The problem is that I'm going to put a standard Rem lug back in. I was just going to fill the space with devcon without bedding the action fully but after reading the above may end up fully bedding. Will have to see how much stress is on the action with just the tang screw tightened down. </div></div>
if the lug recess was opened up properly (material only removed from the front of the recess leaving the rear untouched), a standard lug should still fit in exactly as it does in an unmodified aics. personally, i wouldn't worry about bedding an aics. i've been winning matches with an unbedded aics. </div></div>
Thanks 300sniper - yes it has been opened up properly, only the front has been milled away leaving the back face untouched. I have (like you) had fantastic results with unbedded AICS on my .223 and .300WM - for me the fact that they are a straight forward drop in is one of their best features. My plan was always going to be to shoot this stock as is anyway - if it shoots I'll leave it alone.
My biggest concern about bedding an AICS was that you take away its 'modular' advantage and make it unique to that action. Not ideal for resale or new rifle project.
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
I purchased a hardly used AI stock from a guy here four years ago. This stock would not seat the magazine correctly, so ctgs would not feed. My examination and pix sent to the seller showed a .125" wide gap BEHIND the recoil lug, The action screws when tightened, not torqued, tipped the action. It was just plain FUD.
Got my money back, but seller was never too concerned.
The stocks are real pigs at 6lbs. I never bought another.
Unless you are planning to throw your rifle out of a plane w/o a parachute, I can't see any use for these stocks. Maybe the folding job if you want a folder.
Good luck.
I purchased a hardly used AI stock from a guy here four years ago. This stock would not seat the magazine correctly, so ctgs would not feed. My examination and pix sent to the seller showed a .125" wide gap BEHIND the recoil lug, The action screws when tightened, not torqued, tipped the action. It was just plain FUD.
Got my money back, but seller was never too concerned.
The stocks are real pigs at 6lbs. I never bought another.
Unless you are planning to throw your rifle out of a plane w/o a parachute, I can't see any use for these stocks. Maybe the folding job if you want a folder.
Good luck.
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bignada</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GRIM</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm taking it to the range today and will shoot and re-torque. Does the fact that you can shine light between the recoil lug and chassis face bother anyone other than me?? </div></div>
EXACTLY! I bought a hardly used 2.0 LA stock. The recoil slot fit was so sloppy the POS would not seat the magazine. I had pix of a .125" gage block in the gap. I tried mounting 3 different actions and a barreled action I had on hand at the time. All were no-goes. This did not "disturb" the guy I bought the stock from, who said it was perfect; but he did give me my money back.
The damn stocks are so damn heavy, I never looked for another.
Maybe you can shim the lug cut-out? The slot is fully machined through the aluminum forearm. Find the shim stock that fills the gap, and BE SURE the action seats magazines and feeds correctly before making a mod. JB Weld would probably hold any material or use it as you would epoxy.
This sort of shit should not happen on any $800 stock that fits only one action type, but there you are... </div></div>
where exactly in the lug recess did you fit the .125" gauge block, in front of the lug, behind the lug, under the lug? i am curious how a non-functioning stock could be hardly used. i would think it would be not used at all. did the previous owner have any problems with it? was the chassis modified? do you still have the picture?
shim stock is not going to fix anything in the op's situation. don't get me wrong, i would prefer full contact just because i am a perfectionist but if the lug is making contact at the top near the receiver, i doubt it would be detrimental to accuracy. the lug was designed to have enough surface area to push against a soft wood stock. when pushing against what i would assume to be 7075t6, i doubt it needs anywhere near the surface area available. now if the lug is only making contact at the bottom and daylighting at the top, i could certainly see that affecting accuracy as the lug flexed during recoil.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bignada</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GRIM</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm taking it to the range today and will shoot and re-torque. Does the fact that you can shine light between the recoil lug and chassis face bother anyone other than me?? </div></div>
EXACTLY! I bought a hardly used 2.0 LA stock. The recoil slot fit was so sloppy the POS would not seat the magazine. I had pix of a .125" gage block in the gap. I tried mounting 3 different actions and a barreled action I had on hand at the time. All were no-goes. This did not "disturb" the guy I bought the stock from, who said it was perfect; but he did give me my money back.
The damn stocks are so damn heavy, I never looked for another.
Maybe you can shim the lug cut-out? The slot is fully machined through the aluminum forearm. Find the shim stock that fills the gap, and BE SURE the action seats magazines and feeds correctly before making a mod. JB Weld would probably hold any material or use it as you would epoxy.
This sort of shit should not happen on any $800 stock that fits only one action type, but there you are... </div></div>
where exactly in the lug recess did you fit the .125" gauge block, in front of the lug, behind the lug, under the lug? i am curious how a non-functioning stock could be hardly used. i would think it would be not used at all. did the previous owner have any problems with it? was the chassis modified? do you still have the picture?
shim stock is not going to fix anything in the op's situation. don't get me wrong, i would prefer full contact just because i am a perfectionist but if the lug is making contact at the top near the receiver, i doubt it would be detrimental to accuracy. the lug was designed to have enough surface area to push against a soft wood stock. when pushing against what i would assume to be 7075t6, i doubt it needs anywhere near the surface area available. now if the lug is only making contact at the bottom and daylighting at the top, i could certainly see that affecting accuracy as the lug flexed during recoil.
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
I see that a few of you guys have mentioned your screws coming loose on the AI stocks after shooting the rifle. When you guys retighten the screws, are using loctite at all?
I see that a few of you guys have mentioned your screws coming loose on the AI stocks after shooting the rifle. When you guys retighten the screws, are using loctite at all?
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
GRIM- How do you like that IMUNS on your rifle? Do you have any other pics that you can post?
GRIM- How do you like that IMUNS on your rifle? Do you have any other pics that you can post?
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
I'll post some better detailed pics tomorrow. My wife just got back with her computer so I can now shoot quality pics of it and download them from the camera.
Tyris:
Yep - the AICS weighs a bit more than an HS. I'll give you weights tomorrow when I'll put them on the digital scale. It's pretty darn heavy but it does soak up the recoil and plus I wanted a folder right now so it was pretty much the only one I'd use. I've got a HS.223 PSS type rifle I'll weigh also to give you an idea of what it really will be for a good comparison.
300sniper:
The top half of the recoil lug is seated firmly against the chassis. No light sneaking through so I'm gonna say it's good to go. Shot it at some stuff the other day and hit everything I was aiming at so it impressed me so far. I do love the way the stock feels.
Jackalope33B:
The IMUNS is REALLY cool. Love the way it goes on - real sturdy and centers up perfectly. Top half comes off with the removal of the 6 screws but to remove the bottom half you have to remove the barreled action from the chassis and then you can get access to the two screws that hold the lower half onto the chassis. I got the IMUNS so that I didn't have to worry about my lop changing by mounting a NV device onto the rear of the scope or dedicating a NV scope to be on it full time. Now I'm just saving for NV optics for the rifle.
I'll post some better detailed pics tomorrow. My wife just got back with her computer so I can now shoot quality pics of it and download them from the camera.
Tyris:
Yep - the AICS weighs a bit more than an HS. I'll give you weights tomorrow when I'll put them on the digital scale. It's pretty darn heavy but it does soak up the recoil and plus I wanted a folder right now so it was pretty much the only one I'd use. I've got a HS.223 PSS type rifle I'll weigh also to give you an idea of what it really will be for a good comparison.
300sniper:
The top half of the recoil lug is seated firmly against the chassis. No light sneaking through so I'm gonna say it's good to go. Shot it at some stuff the other day and hit everything I was aiming at so it impressed me so far. I do love the way the stock feels.
Jackalope33B:
The IMUNS is REALLY cool. Love the way it goes on - real sturdy and centers up perfectly. Top half comes off with the removal of the 6 screws but to remove the bottom half you have to remove the barreled action from the chassis and then you can get access to the two screws that hold the lower half onto the chassis. I got the IMUNS so that I didn't have to worry about my lop changing by mounting a NV device onto the rear of the scope or dedicating a NV scope to be on it full time. Now I'm just saving for NV optics for the rifle.
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
Grim I have a Rem 700 built by Mark @ SAC. We shot it on several occasions and it was shooting about 1 MOA. Mark had a feeling that it probably needed to be bedded and so he did a little test that he came up and we discovered a huge gap at the rear mounting point. I can't give away Mark's technique without his permission but I can tell you that before he even beds it he will test it. If its within his limits he will call you and let you know its not worth bedding. But the moral of the story is that you can't trust that the AICS is perfect and you would be stupid not to have Mark at least test it. If it doesn't need it you can always have him install a tactical bolt know or something.
Either way I hope it turns out awesome.
Grim I have a Rem 700 built by Mark @ SAC. We shot it on several occasions and it was shooting about 1 MOA. Mark had a feeling that it probably needed to be bedded and so he did a little test that he came up and we discovered a huge gap at the rear mounting point. I can't give away Mark's technique without his permission but I can tell you that before he even beds it he will test it. If its within his limits he will call you and let you know its not worth bedding. But the moral of the story is that you can't trust that the AICS is perfect and you would be stupid not to have Mark at least test it. If it doesn't need it you can always have him install a tactical bolt know or something.
Either way I hope it turns out awesome.
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
Grim It looks nice. Can you take a few pictures of the bottom the IMUNS? I'm curious to know how it attaches to the bottom of the AI stock .
Grim It looks nice. Can you take a few pictures of the bottom the IMUNS? I'm curious to know how it attaches to the bottom of the AI stock .
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
I'll get some more pics tomorrow of the IMUNS and how it attaches. Basically if you remove the 6 torx screws on top then the top half lifts off and you've got the bottom u-shaped piece underneath the barrel. If you then remove the barreled action you can gain access to two screws that go out the bottom of the IMUNS and into that rectangular block sticking out the front of the chassis. I'd have to remove the barreled action to show you the screws and I'm not going to do that as I just got it re-torqued into position from the last time I fired it and want to see how it shoots now.
Here's some pics of the stock without the skins and a pic of the recoil lug with a flashlight behind it and showing the light sneaking behind the lug. Here's a pic of the group it shot the first time I dropped the barreled action in the stock using 175 GMM ammo.
Factory Gold Medal Match 175
I'll get some more pics tomorrow of the IMUNS and how it attaches. Basically if you remove the 6 torx screws on top then the top half lifts off and you've got the bottom u-shaped piece underneath the barrel. If you then remove the barreled action you can gain access to two screws that go out the bottom of the IMUNS and into that rectangular block sticking out the front of the chassis. I'd have to remove the barreled action to show you the screws and I'm not going to do that as I just got it re-torqued into position from the last time I fired it and want to see how it shoots now.
Here's some pics of the stock without the skins and a pic of the recoil lug with a flashlight behind it and showing the light sneaking behind the lug. Here's a pic of the group it shot the first time I dropped the barreled action in the stock using 175 GMM ammo.
Factory Gold Medal Match 175
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GRIM</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'll get some more pics tomorrow of the IMUNS and how it attaches. Basically if you remove the 6 torx screws on top then the top half lifts off and you've got the bottom u-shaped piece underneath the barrel. If you then remove the barreled action you can gain access to two screws that go out the bottom of the IMUNS and into that rectangular block sticking out the front of the chassis. I'd have to remove the barreled action to show you the screws and I'm not going to do that as I just got it re-torqued into position from the last time I fired it and want to see how it shoots now.
Here's some pics of the stock without the skins and a pic of the recoil lug with a flashlight behind it and showing the light sneaking behind the lug. Here's a pic of the group it shot the first time I dropped the barreled action in the stock using 175 GMM ammo.
Factory Gold Medal Match 175
</div></div>
WTF is up with your turret?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GRIM</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'll get some more pics tomorrow of the IMUNS and how it attaches. Basically if you remove the 6 torx screws on top then the top half lifts off and you've got the bottom u-shaped piece underneath the barrel. If you then remove the barreled action you can gain access to two screws that go out the bottom of the IMUNS and into that rectangular block sticking out the front of the chassis. I'd have to remove the barreled action to show you the screws and I'm not going to do that as I just got it re-torqued into position from the last time I fired it and want to see how it shoots now.
Here's some pics of the stock without the skins and a pic of the recoil lug with a flashlight behind it and showing the light sneaking behind the lug. Here's a pic of the group it shot the first time I dropped the barreled action in the stock using 175 GMM ammo.
Factory Gold Medal Match 175
WTF is up with your turret?
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
The turret is made by Dave Lauck at www.dlsports.com - he makes turrets for the NF NXS & Leupolds with target turrets.
The ballistic drop of the load that the rifle shoots is calculated using the Sierra ballistics program (in that turret's case it's for a 168 AMAX at 2860 fps or so) and the yardage drops starting at 100 yds are marked on the lowest layer. My marks are "1" for 100, then a dot at 150 yds, then a "2" at 200 and so forth (of course you've got to go confirm the drops at the range too). Once you've made a full revolution and come back to the "1" again then you jump up a layer and do the same thing. Eventually you work your way to the top layer with all your yardage drops labeled on each layer. All you've basically done is wrap a linear yardage tape around a turret. No more counting clicks or being off your yardage by one revolution or having to remember the distance of the last target you engaged so that you can do math in public and screw up the correction difference to the next target.
The turret is made by Dave Lauck at www.dlsports.com - he makes turrets for the NF NXS & Leupolds with target turrets.
The ballistic drop of the load that the rifle shoots is calculated using the Sierra ballistics program (in that turret's case it's for a 168 AMAX at 2860 fps or so) and the yardage drops starting at 100 yds are marked on the lowest layer. My marks are "1" for 100, then a dot at 150 yds, then a "2" at 200 and so forth (of course you've got to go confirm the drops at the range too). Once you've made a full revolution and come back to the "1" again then you jump up a layer and do the same thing. Eventually you work your way to the top layer with all your yardage drops labeled on each layer. All you've basically done is wrap a linear yardage tape around a turret. No more counting clicks or being off your yardage by one revolution or having to remember the distance of the last target you engaged so that you can do math in public and screw up the correction difference to the next target.
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
Grim- Nice pictures. Now I know Im probably going to sound like a dumb a*s. But Im as new to this as you can get. What do you mean by "I'd have to remove the barreled action"? Do you have to take the whole rifle apart to install the IMUNS? From what I saw online, it looks like the only thing that needs to come off are the Skins, and then you remove the AI bipod mounting block, and replace it with the lower half of the IMUNS. (http://www.badgerordnance.com/folders/downloads/3/310-10%20Instructions%20copy.pdf)
Am I missing something here lol..
Grim- Nice pictures. Now I know Im probably going to sound like a dumb a*s. But Im as new to this as you can get. What do you mean by "I'd have to remove the barreled action"? Do you have to take the whole rifle apart to install the IMUNS? From what I saw online, it looks like the only thing that needs to come off are the Skins, and then you remove the AI bipod mounting block, and replace it with the lower half of the IMUNS. (http://www.badgerordnance.com/folders/downloads/3/310-10%20Instructions%20copy.pdf)
Am I missing something here lol..
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
No, you are correct. To remove the whole thing you'd punch out the roll pin and all of it slides out the front. I don't plan on removing the block from the frame so I'd just remove the round portion that surrounds the barrel. To get both halves of the round portion off you'd have to remove the two big action screws that hold the action in place and lift up the barrel and action to gain access to the two screws holding the lower half circle to the rectangular piece.
Since I don't have a PV22 to plop in front of the IMUNS it seems kind of silly to keep it mounted on the rifle so I'll probably remove the round portion with the picatinny rails. Heck - the thing weighs enough as it is...
There are no stupid questions when it comes to this stuff. Even pics sometimes don't make stuff crystal clear, sure helps to have them though.
No, you are correct. To remove the whole thing you'd punch out the roll pin and all of it slides out the front. I don't plan on removing the block from the frame so I'd just remove the round portion that surrounds the barrel. To get both halves of the round portion off you'd have to remove the two big action screws that hold the action in place and lift up the barrel and action to gain access to the two screws holding the lower half circle to the rectangular piece.
Since I don't have a PV22 to plop in front of the IMUNS it seems kind of silly to keep it mounted on the rifle so I'll probably remove the round portion with the picatinny rails. Heck - the thing weighs enough as it is...
There are no stupid questions when it comes to this stuff. Even pics sometimes don't make stuff crystal clear, sure helps to have them though.
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
I'm looking for the same set up.
Do you know the weight without the can?
I'm looking for the same set up.
Do you know the weight without the can?
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
Grim- When you are talking about the "round portion that surrounds the barrel", are you talking about the IMUNS, Bottom/Bipod Mounting Block? Im still a little
as to why you would need to remove "the big action screws that hold the action in place and lift up the barrel and action to gain access to the two screws holding the lower half circle to the rectangular piece" in order to remove or install the IMUNS
BTW, 17lbs is a nice weight for a target rifle. Thank god for bipods
Grim- When you are talking about the "round portion that surrounds the barrel", are you talking about the IMUNS, Bottom/Bipod Mounting Block? Im still a little
BTW, 17lbs is a nice weight for a target rifle. Thank god for bipods
Re: Rem700 action in AICS 2.0
I don't want to punch out the roll pin to remove the rectangular portion of the IMUNS, once it's in I'm leaving it. However I could remove a portion of it in the interest of saving weight but in reality it doesn't weigh all that much.
I don't want to punch out the roll pin to remove the rectangular portion of the IMUNS, once it's in I'm leaving it. However I could remove a portion of it in the interest of saving weight but in reality it doesn't weigh all that much.
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