I am thinking about taking off my factory Remington 700 barrel and switching it over to a NSS Remage system. Currently My rifle is bedded in a Mcmillian Stock. I am debating reusing the factory recoil lug so I don't have to rebed the stock instead of using the NSS recoil lug. Which do you guys think is the better route, factory recoil lug or NSS recoil lug and rebed the stock?
- Thread starter TAMU20
- Start date
If I’m going to go with the nss lug I’ll get the nss action wrench. Is that going to be strong enough to take off the factory barrel?
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Deleted member 10043
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A pipe wrench will take off the factory barrel and you may need a propane torch standing by as well. I always get the thicker lug from from NSS. It is better than a brake, 
As for lining up the recoil lug, all I do is get it close in the correct position and tighten down. Then the hard rubber mallet easily taps it square without loosening the barrel nut. Just make the appropriate index marks. NSS has the alignment tool though. In fact, I just realized I have since bought one to try next time. Almost forgot.
As for lining up the recoil lug, all I do is get it close in the correct position and tighten down. Then the hard rubber mallet easily taps it square without loosening the barrel nut. Just make the appropriate index marks. NSS has the alignment tool though. In fact, I just realized I have since bought one to try next time. Almost forgot.
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A relief cut in that barrel is the only surefire way to get it off without twisting or damaging anything. I've had some come off with a torch. But the last 2, had to relief cut the barrel just in front of the recoil lug. No matter how long the torch was on there it would not budge. Relief cut and it popped right off.
relief cut is a savior at times.
You can cut it with a hack saw or cut off wheel if you don’t have a lathe and your careful.
I was planning on using the taper lock alignment tool. It makes it easier than eyeballing and using a mallet.
Ideally I don’t want to cut the barrel can I soak it in some kind of solvent to help if the torch doesn’t do the trick?
Stick it muzzle down and squirt some penetrating oil on the barrel breech so it can soak down into the threads.
Mine just took a big breaker bar (3” pipe 4’ long) over the nss action wrench handle though. Came off easy like that.
Mine just took a big breaker bar (3” pipe 4’ long) over the nss action wrench handle though. Came off easy like that.
A rag soaked in WD40 is awesome crab bait.
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Deleted member 10043
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Try taking it off, it may come loose with a few taps. Be progressive.
Finally a use for that king sized can I've had all these years.
Does that Viper barrel vise work well for you? Or should I go with the brownells barrel vise?
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Deleted member 10043
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Explain the relief cut, thanks.
I’ve done relief cuts on big hydraulic cylinders and large bolts on heavy equipment out in the bush.
life saver.
I don't have a lathe so I'd have to do it with a hacksaw. Hopefully solvent and or torch does the trick.
Super easy. With your barreled action in the vice, take your angle/cut off hand grinder with a metal cutting/grinding disc on it and cut a ring 360 around the barrel just in front of the recoil lug about .25" deep. Action will screw off easily after that.
If your replacing the recoil lug, which I recommend, then make the cut right up against the front of the recoil lug. Screw off the action and trash everything else. Not worth screwing up the action over a factory barrel.
If your replacing the recoil lug, which I recommend, then make the cut right up against the front of the recoil lug. Screw off the action and trash everything else. Not worth screwing up the action over a factory barrel.
Here is a Rem700 223 barrel I have laying here that I took off a few weeks ago. No this action has never seen water. Just heat and soaking with Kroil and wouldnt budge.. see the relief cut just in front of recoil lug.. came off with no effort after.
And here is the final rebuild. Action face and lugs trued by PVA after barrel removal, New Kreiger 22" 1.07" straight contour, PVA chambered 223 Wylde, muzzle threaded 5/8-24, SS .25 thick recoil lug, Bighorn 12 point remage barrel nut, and barrel, nut and lug cerakoted graphite black. Didnt want to cerakote the action, it's super smooth. But may tape off and cost the outside only.. Going into a HS Precision stock CNC inlet by LRI for PTG bottle metal. Timney Calvin Elite trigger.
Gonna test fire it then put it in the PX. I had it up for sale in its OEM config but nobody was buying it so.I decided to so it up somewhat and repost it.
And here is the final rebuild. Action face and lugs trued by PVA after barrel removal, New Kreiger 22" 1.07" straight contour, PVA chambered 223 Wylde, muzzle threaded 5/8-24, SS .25 thick recoil lug, Bighorn 12 point remage barrel nut, and barrel, nut and lug cerakoted graphite black. Didnt want to cerakote the action, it's super smooth. But may tape off and cost the outside only.. Going into a HS Precision stock CNC inlet by LRI for PTG bottle metal. Timney Calvin Elite trigger.
Gonna test fire it then put it in the PX. I had it up for sale in its OEM config but nobody was buying it so.I decided to so it up somewhat and repost it.
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Deleted member 10043
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What are you wearing dude?
Huh? A north face fleece and pants. Edited for the people.focusing on all the wrong things
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Deleted member 10043
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I'll keep the relief cut in mind for the future.
Viper worked fine for me, I use a business card around the barrel and tighten the cap screws down until they don’t go anymore with reasonable force, you can tell when they bottom out. Haven’t had a slip yet knock on wood but some people have had slipping issues.
Also, after a soak in Kroil and some propane torchin', a good hard whack with a very heavy sledge can break loose an action. I think it is better than a long cheater bar that can end up twisting the action.
