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Remington 700 5R upgrades. Advice appreciated

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MidCitiesMildMan

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Minuteman
Feb 14, 2017
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I'll warn you I'm new to longer distance (beyond 500 yard) shooting. I picked up a Remington 700 in .308, the 5R Milspec model with a 24" stainless barrel. The rifle already has a Timney Calvin Elite @ 8 oz.

I'd like to fix the cheek weld, and install a scope that will allow enough adjustment to use the turret and actual crosshairs out to 1,000 yards.

The budget is hard at $2,000, and I would prefer to come in a little under that. How should I best spend that?

On the stock, I see either a cheek riser on the original HS Precision stock, or a chassis. I like the McCree G7. The Magpul seems to be a nice option also, that is budget friendly. I'm not sure how adjustable the cheek weld is.

On the scope/rings/rail, I have read a lot. This will be the most expensive optic I've ever purchased by a factor of about 2, and I'd like to keep it that way. I am heavily biased towards Vortex based on experience and reading. I'd like something that tracks accurately, that won't wear out quickly, and is warrantied for a long time if it breaks. I prefer MOA but am willing to learn MRAD. The new PSTII on a 20moa rail seems like the best choice if I get the McCree chassis.

Based on past experience, I will shoot with the scope on max magnification, and since I'll be using the crosshairs, am not sure FFP benefits me. Correct me if mistaken.
 
I have one of those rifles and a stock pack from Triad Tactical will do the trick to fix the cheek weld issue and save you a bundle at the same time. As far as a scope goes, I'd put a Bushnell DMR2 on it, I have one on a different 308 and use it out to 1k all the time. It's mil based and FFP which I strongly recommend if you're going to be shooting different distances out to 1k.
 
Karsten cheek rest if you want to keep the stock you've got. They work great. If you spent an hour bedding the stock you've got then the chassis is a small accuracy downgrade anyway. If you want the adjustability or shape of a chassis then that's a different story.

Nice choice on the scope, but I'm not sure I'd ever buy a SFP scope. It just severely limits what the scope can do. The rifle won't last forever, but the scope will last lifetimes. You want to limit all use of the scope to full mag forever? Mirage is going to tear you to pieces brother. I shoot on 15mag most of the time because the mirage won't allow me to see 1000 on full mag.
 
Another vote for a Triad stock pack, they are a great way to get a good cheek weld without going broke. Use the rest of your money on glass , rings and a rail .
 
X3 on the Triad stock pack for building up to the proper cheek weld. Not to mention, they're darn comfortable to put your cheek on when freezing cold and you're watching something with giant antlers through your scope. Very budget friendly also. Bed the stock you've got and worry about upgrading it later. Get a 20moa base and spend every other penny on scope and rings. You should come in right on your budget with some NF or TPS rings and this Razor scope: [video]https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=999143&gclid=CKHDj-Onw9ICFdK3wAodvKEKdg&is=REG&ap=y&c3api=1876%2C52934714882%2C&Q=&A=details[/video]

Another option on glass is to be patient and watch the PX and the classifieds on some other forums. There are better scopes out there - the one I listed took 30 seconds to find with Google- I'm just giving one possibility. Next to a good trigger, I put good glass at the top of the 'need' list for ANY precision shooting. Almost any stock can be made to shoot better than most guys can shoot with a bed job and a little sand paper to make sure the barrel floats. Your biggest 'bang for the buck' will come from trigger and optics. ....and the loads you shoot through it.



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X4 on the Triad stock pack. Keep your stock (unless you don't like the ergos of a stock and prefer a chassis) bed it and and add a DBM. That should leave you over $1500 for scope and rings.
 
My 5r is one of my favorite rifles. Began life in the HS and switched to the McRee, great chassis but then I had to give the KRG W3 a try. The W3 is a my favorite chassis but now it belongs to my creedmor. I recently ordered the Grayboe Renegade for the 5R and changed the barrel to a 6.5x47 and I really dig this stock. Grayboe is owned by McMillans son and the patented A5 pattern is available for this stock. Fit and finish is excellent and pillar bedded, and same fill as McMillans. I got a camo pattern to my door for $349. This may be a cost effective option for you unless you desire a chassis. My accuracy is as good as in the W3 and Im actually contemplating selling the chassis for another Grayboe and pocketing some cash for powder and bullets. Just a thought since your on a budget.
As far as glass SWFA or Athlon should serve you well, keep your eye on the optics for sale section, I've picked up a few good deals there.
 
I have had a fewrifles in HS stocks and have 2 currently.
Triad is the way to go. Talk to steve to get the right size. I got the bigger one first go around. Fortunately it fits another stock just fine.
I am a very budget minded guy and will say when buying rings, by upper end. Badger, NF, Seekins are the cheaper end of top shelf. You can find them here for a deal regularly.
I use Badger bases and rings on my CF rifles based on long ago given advice from some vertically challenged fellow who seems to know a thing or two.
Bushnell makes a great scope. I have a LRHS that I really like for the money I paid. I see them for less than 1k regularly. The DMR would also be good. I got mine for shooting and hunting. The XTR II from Burris and the new PST II round out that list for me. I would like to try the new Vortex as I really like their CS and classy presentation here on the Hide. That means something to me.
 
MidCitiesMildMan said:
I'll warn you I'm new to longer distance (beyond 500 yard) shooting. I picked up a Remington 700 in .308, the 5R Milspec model with a 24" stainless barrel. The rifle already has a Timney Calvin Elite @ 8 oz.

I'd like to fix the cheek weld, and install a scope that will allow enough adjustment to use the turret and actual crosshairs out to 1,000 yards.

The budget is hard at $2,000, and I would prefer to come in a little under that. How should I best spend that?

On the stock, I see either a cheek riser on the original HS Precision stock, or a chassis. I like the McCree G7. The Magpul seems to be a nice option also, that is budget friendly. I'm not sure how adjustable the cheek weld is.

On the scope/rings/rail, I have read a lot. This will be the most expensive optic I've ever purchased by a factor of about 2, and I'd like to keep it that way. I am heavily biased towards Vortex based on experience and reading. I'd like something that tracks accurately, that won't wear out quickly, and is warrantied for a long time if it breaks. I prefer MOA but am willing to learn MRAD. The new PSTII on a 20moa rail seems like the best choice if I get the McCree chassis.

Based on past experience, I will shoot with the scope on max magnification, and since I'll be using the crosshairs, am not sure FFP benefits me. Correct me if mistaken.
Click to expand...

I have a 5R. It shoots really well, and with the right load has performed on the same level as two custom 308s I have had ... your experience may vary. If I was you, this is how I would upgrade it:

- Keep the stock and get a triad tactical stock pack. It has Velcro shims that you can install to adjust the cheek height. Works just fine and less expensive. The stock you have is fine for this rifle.
- Get a 2 piece, 20 MOA, short action, pictatinny rail set. Easier to top load and looks better, IMO
- Have a shop thread the muzzle 5/8x24 and get a brake such as the APA Gen 2 little bastard
- A large bolt knob is always a nice feature
- Have CDI precision or some other shop install a DBM system. Sell the hinged floor plate
- For the scope, get a set of 30mm Vortex or Seekins precision rings and top it with the 2.5-10x32 F1 PST. Glass is very good ... I have one and I routinely use this setup at 800 yards without issue, and have taken it out to 1K. If you want to splurge for something more expensive, then maybe you can get a SWFA 5-20 for about $1K. Either way, you should come in under your $2K budget.

IMG_0647.JPG
 
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Thank you. I'll go with the Triad and keep the HS Precision stock. I like it anyway. I ordered the PST gen2 5x25 50mm FFP last night. I like the Nightforce 2 piece 20 moa rail, and will go with that. Can I get a suggestion on which rings to go with, specifically the height. I usually brand match the rings & rail, so I'll probably go with NF rings. Seekins as a second choice.

That should get me well under budget, which will go to ammo & maybe training.

Most, maybe all, of my other CF rifles are threaded and used with suppressors regularly. I intentionally chose a non-threaded rifle for this so I wouldn't be tempted to buy a .30 caliber can, and to eliminate one variable. I will glass bed and do the mag conversion later, but plan to leave the barrel untouched.
 
Good purchases there man. I'm sure you're going to be happy with that scope.

One thing I would make sure of before buying a scope base is making sure you want two piece instead of one. A one piece base ensures the rings are aligned. The two piece base will inevitably create an alignment issue. Both side to side and up/down. If you get a one piece base and bed it (if needed) to the action then both of these issues are eliminated.

This formula will give you the clearance for the ring height. Remember PEMDAS. I like mine as low as possible, but you may prefer to run them higher.



Rail Height + Center Ring Height + (Action Diameter - Barrel Taper at full scope length) X (0.5) - (bell objective X 0.5) - (base cant X 0.05) = Clearance
 
That makes sense. The cost of the rings/rail have creeped up enough I'm just going to use Ken Farrell steel. I have them on my other 700 and they are very nice. Expensive, but no reason they shouldn't last a very long time. I'll contact them for a height. I prefer the scope as close to the barrel as possible, especially on a rifle like this where the comb is too low.
 
Contacted Farrel, they suggested their regular height rail and low rings. Placed the order, and they already shipped them.

Also ordered a Vortex Ranger 1000 range finger, and 600 rounds of Federal Gold Medal Match.

I can't make the next class at Outback PRC but set aside funds for, and hope to make the following one.

This is what the rifle looks like now.
2ibewq9.jpg
 
Sounds like a good combo since the higher rail will give more room for feeding and the low rings will still have the scope close to the barrel.

Pretty rifle. Have fun with it man. I'd love to hear any feedback you have on the range finder once you get to use it. I ended up going Sig Kilo 2000 only because I couldn't find any feedback on the ranger. I really like Vortex's warranty.
 
Tac Ops uses a 2 piece system and swears by it - Mike R. Knows his stuff. I have used a couple of sets and they work great. Much easer to top feed in a hurry. As far as misalignment, explain to me how a 1 piece base is going to solve that problem if the holes are drilled off center? Total nonsense. To each their own. The only real disadvantage is if you need the entire length of rail to hang other crap or an odd fitting optic/ring system.
 
Tacops has some fancier stuff to make things perfect than I do. I am guessing Mike makes all the holes perfect in centering and alignment. Chad Dixon posted a video on that a few years back and how he does it.
I wont say it wont work, I used LL's advice and got Badger 1 piece. Its easy to see when mounting the rail if something is off and bed the rail. Also less of a chance to have to lap rings, especially if you use high quality rings too.

back to the OP, of course the Farrell stuff is top notch. Curious how the new PST treats you and your thoughts. I bet it is a dandy.
Enjoy
 
LCDR JGB said:
explain to me how a 1 piece base is going to solve that problem if the holes are drilled off center?
Click to expand...
You are under the assumption that simply tightening the screws centers the base perfectly every single time. As if there wasn't any wiggle room at all.

This is easily seen by example with action screws on most factory rifles. Loosen your action screws and twist the rifle clockwise and tighten them down. Do the same thing, but twist counterclockwise. By measuring how far the trigger moves inside the trigger guard it will be clear as day there is play there...you won't even need to measure it. It's fairly obvious.

This example has the same impact on the base. Those screws aren't self aligning anything. With a one piece base it won't matter how the base might be slightly twisted or whatever...the rings are going to be aligned better because it's all bolted to the same base. You are inevitably introducing an alignment issue with 2 pieces instead of 1.

A few tests with some ring alignment bars would have you at the same conclusion.


Even if you assume for a moment that a superior design allows for perfect alignment as the screws are tightened, now you are assuming that the holes are drilled perfectly. OP has a mass produced factory rifle. There isn't a single thing on it that is absolutely perfect.
 
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davisj3537 said:
With a one piece base it won't matter how the base might be slightly twisted or whatever...the rings are going to be aligned better because it's all bolted to the same base. You are inevitably introducing an alignment issue with 2 pieces instead of 1.
Click to expand...

Sorry, this is a load of crap ... you're telling me that clamping rings on a twisted base is going to be "aligned better"? Good luck with that buddy. What's going to show if you have a misaligned system is not the base, but putting the scope into rings mounted on that base. There are a lot more rifles out there with a two piece set up too ... the precision rig setup is a pretty niche, cottage industry market. If you get a quality two piece set up (like Nightforce) and a good ring set, then you have a better system for a top feeder rifle unless you're needing more rail section to hang off other crap. A 1 piece set up is used w/ custom receivers to give you more flexibility with eye relief or configuring your optics setup to serve a vast array of custom aftermarket options - more expensive and not necessary ... OP was looking for ways to save money. But, whatever ... either will work. If you look at my rifle above, you'll see it's a single piece NF base, but I have a DBM system. When the mag is out and i feel like top loading the two "Barney rounds" that I have on the side, that single piece rail has gotten in the way.
 
Farrell is so good, the rings and rail were delivered a few minutes ago. Steel feels so substantial compared to aluminum. I won't have any alignment issues.
 
LCDR JGB said:
What's going to show if you have a misaligned system is not the base, but putting the scope into rings mounted on that base.
Click to expand...
This is what I was trying to say with the ring alignment bars man. So "twisted" was a bad choice of words on my part. If the base is literally twisting then you've got larger issues. Not in line with the bore, due to poor hole alignment, (but the metal itself not twisting) is a better way to say what I was attempting to describe.

So long as you can line up all the holes on a 1 piece base and bed it if needed, then the front ring should be lined up with the rear ring given you bought quality parts, because the front and rear of the base is the same piece of metal. When you disconnect the front and rear base into 2 pieces they are no longer guaranteed to be in line with each other.

I'm not saying 2 piece bases are bad or anything, because they are used on plenty of precision rifles, but it brings another variable into the equation that a 1 piece base does not.
 
Strongly support going with a Kirsten cheek rest, then spend the remainder on glass. Maybe try for a used vortex hd gen 1, or a new bushnell. I also strongly encourage going first focal plane. As you get into this endeavor, you will notice that there are a number of tasks that you need to remember when setting up the shot. It's an asset when you no longer have to remember to check the power on your scope, so that your second shot correction is spot on. With ffp, one mil in the glass, is one mil, even if you failed to fully return to full power.
Enjoy that rifle.
 
My upgrades to a 5r so far.
​​​​The aac adapter and the magpul
​​​​​The nikon 3x9 is ok for running subs clear and bright.
​​​​​Short range quite fun with an aac can.
 

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I relate shooting 300 blackout subsonic in a rifle to be equivalent to shooting a 38 snuby.
Every thing else is a Cadillac after that.
I want to see your finished rifle .
have to assemble a sbr stamp just in, before new long gun probably a good 223 trainer. Say 500yd expected and learn to load for it properly.
Good luck bargain hunting.
 
Good choice on the optic. I'd also go against the grain here a bit and say get a chassis and sell the stock. I've been very impressed with the krg xray. Very comfortable, no need for bedding, bottom metal built in and not too heavy or expensive.
 
I have an X-Ray on my good .223 rifle, and like it. But for the .308 if I go to a chassis, I'd prefer a heavier one. I won't be packing the rifle all over the place, and it seems a heavier rifle is easier to shoot accurately.
 
Ran 40 rounds through it tonight. It is up to 83 now. A 12x24 silhouette @ 500 yards was a relatively easy shot.

154ag78.jpg
 
Will probably hit 6 inch plates with good ammo and a flat wind.
Gun looks good.
What scope did u get..
 
Thanks. I'm using PPU 175's to break it in, but have both 168 & 175 gr Federal GMM.

I ordered a Vortex PST genII 5x25, but it is on backorder. The Leupold was on an AR, so I borrowed it.
 
Dunno how I missed this thread. I have the same exact rifle in .308. I had a Karsten on it but I found it uncomfortable after extended shooting. Went with the Triad paxk as well. It has a Vortex HSLR 6-24 on it along with a 20MOA base. Ive taken it to 1K using both 185 Bergers and 175SMKs. You're gonna have a lot of fun!
 
I'm in the minority here but I found an AICS chassis to be a fantastic upgrade to my Remington 700. Fully adjustable in comb and length of pull plus great magazines. I always hated pushing rounds into the box mag on the 700...or worse yet unloading them. You can probably find an AICS 1.5 for a good price.
 
Any of the AICS are bad ass. I just cant justify the cost at this point personally. Perhaps one day down the road.
 
MidCitiesMildMan said:
I can't make the next class at Outback PRC but set aside funds for, and hope to make the following one.
Click to expand...
You should shoot a PRC club match. A lot of fun, much less cash to outlay and people will definitely help you out. Heck, the March one is this weekend.

 
Triad stock pack. I have them on several rifles.
Do yourself a favor and just get an FFP scope. I won't even buy an SFP scope. When you need the reticle to subtend properly (wind/elevation holds, range estimation, calculate correction, whatever) you will appreciate not having to check what mag you are using and either change the mag or do some math. Most SFP scope reticles properly subtend at the scope's highest magnification, which you cannot always use because of mirage or FOV requirements. $2000 will buy you some really nice FFP scopes with money left over for a good set of rings (don't skimp on rings!) like Seekins, Badger, ARC M10, etc.
 
Well, after (over?) thinking this, and noticing that KRG dropped the price of the X-Ray $50, ordered a black X-Ray and spigot for the 5R. Since my .223 700 has the same chassis, it makes sense from a trainer standpoint. And the X-Ray fits me well.

I did think hard about the new MDT ESS chassis. It would be a couple hundred dollars more, and somewhat of an unknown, so I went with the known. It fits the budget too. $280 for Farrell rail/rings, $980 for the scope, and $700 for the chassis.

KRG must be slow. They had a tracking number emailed 17 minutes from the time I hit submit.
 
b511e4e04e7d405114bc306ff0f070ae.jpg

791ed4b04f7cf70895c7d5ed9b483c5c.jpg

Here's my R700 5R in .308 Win. I've upgraded it with a Manners GAT stock and TriggerTech trigger. It's a sub 1/2 MOA rifle.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Stock is here an installed.

What torque does everyone use for the action to chassis screws? There wasn't a number in the instructions for this.

x3fuu.jpg


Now if the Vortex scope would get here...
 
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