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Gunsmithing remington 700 criterion remage issues update; and help me decide where i should go from here

Mrmauser

Private
Minuteman
Nov 25, 2018
22
3
Indiana
I posted on here some time back about my remington 700 in 300wm, after doing a remage conversion it stopped chambering rounds easily. The issue was the extractor wouldn’t pop over the case rim when loading, I tried using a ptg bolt but that was out of spec and didn’t work. I recently got my hands on a new extractor for the factory Remington 700 bolt and that didn’t fix it either. The only guess I have is that the match chamber being so tight and maybe my action is crooked or something and it’s causing the issue. So I’m at a crossroads on what to do now and would like some help.
1. Go to Wally World buy the budget 700 in a belted magnum caliber try the bolt from it and see if it will work in mine if that doesn’t work trying putting the criterion remage barrel on the other action cost $350~
2. Buy a 700 clone action that’s blueprinted and all square to put the remage conversion on, then just use the original action as a paperweight cost ~1000?

Anyone else have any ideas cause I’m out of them ;just adding these details it’s and older 700 with the riveted in extractor and also when I got this rifle 3 years ago it had been worked on by a now defunct gun shop in my state but when I looked at there website when it was still up it said there package involved trueing and blueprinting there action. I’m guessing whatever they did may have been worse then it was factory
 
I would probably have a gunsmith that you trust take a look at it before running out any buying a new action, unless of course you just want to pick up a new action. Just throwing ideas out there, are you using the factory recoil lug, if so, perhaps trying an aftermarket recoil lug might be a cheap test to do and if it turns out to not be that, you aren't really out anything. If a prior smith did do work on the action and worked on the threads, I would imagine a smith could not only identify the problem, but could likely fix it for you, but you may lose (or have already lost due to previous work) the ability to use remage prefits? Again just throwing ideas out there.
 
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Brand new virgin brass, the issue is that the extractor will not pop over the case rim. If I slide the case under the extractor it has no issues chambering or extracting the case. Also this is a complete remage conversion with new recoil lug and all
 
I would probably have a gunsmith that you trust take a look at it before running out any buying a new action, unless of course you just want to pick up a new action. Just throwing ideas out there, are you using the factory recoil lug, if so, perhaps trying an aftermarket recoil lug might be a cheap test to do and if it turns out to not be that, you aren't really out anything. If a prior smith did do work on the action and worked on the threads, I would imagine a smith could not only identify the problem, but could likely fix it for you, but you may lose (or have already lost due to previous work) the ability to use remage prefits? Again just throwing ideas out there.
If I knew any around here I’d consider it but I don’t and just guessing I’d probably have to pay minimum of $400 to have my action messed with if I send it somewhere
 
give people an idea where you are located and they might be able to put you onto a smith.

there are a lot of reputable shops on here and who come with good recommendations. most recently ive had a couple things done by LRI. has been fairly quick turnarounds, with good results. you may give them a call.
 
The problem is poor quality control from Remington. They did not cut the factory extracter groove deep enough. This can be fixed easily with the right cutter and a mill. This is an issue that pops up every now and then.
 
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The problem is poor quality control from Remington. They did not cut the factory extracter groove deep enough. This can be fixed easily with the right cutter and a mill. This is an issue that pops up every now and then.

Would this still be likely if it at one point did extract properly? Only reason I mentioned headspace was because of the remage setup being variable in headspace on install as opposed to a traditional barrel that gets fully shouldered. Just spit balling though I dont really know if it would cause this issue if it was not right. My remage has never been an issue in that regard.
 
I just don’t want to wrap anymore money up in this factory Remington action. I figure sending it out will cost around $400 minimum and that’s money I can put towards a better action. Yes I’ve checked the headspace and had no issue setting it as long I put the forester gauge under the extractor. I even put the factory barrel on once to make sure it worked and it did with our issue.
 
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I just don’t want to wrap anymore money up in this factory Remington action. I figure sending it out will cost around $400 minimum and that’s money I can put towards a better action. Yes I’ve checked the headspace and had no issue setting it as long I put the forester gauge under the extractor. I even put the factory barrel on once to make sure it worked and it did with our issue.

$400 to send it off? I would think many gunsmiths would charge less than $100 to do the fix.
 
Would this still be likely if it at one point did extract properly? Only reason I mentioned headspace was because of the remage setup being variable in headspace on install as opposed to a traditional barrel that gets fully shouldered. Just spit balling though I dont really know if it would cause this issue if it was not right. My remage has never been an issue in that regard.

The Remington factory barrel was just enough different I tolerance or fit to make the extractor work. .010" deeper on the extractor groove would likely fix this issue. Not a headspace issue by what the OP has described. He said it chambers a round fine when the round is clipped under the extractor.
 
The Remington factory barrel was just enough different I tolerance or fit to make the extractor work. .010" deeper on the extractor groove would likely fix this issue. Not a headspace issue by what the OP has described. He said it chambers a round fine when the round is clipped under the extractor.

That is pretty interesting. Something to keep in mind for future builds. Thanks for the knowledge.
 
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The Remington factory barrel was just enough different I tolerance or fit to make the extractor work. .010" deeper on the extractor groove would likely fix this issue. Not a headspace issue by what the OP has described. He said it chambers a round fine when the round is clipped under the extractor.

Hmmmm, I might try nabbing a new bolt on eBay and see if that works now
 
i have to agree with one of the previous post.

Give us a general location and more than likely the membership can direct you to
someone local who can help.

You may be able to do a physical drop off, which saves shipping and insurance.

A local smith to me did this very same mod to my action: $100 cash, done while I watched.
In and out like 7Eleven!

Good Luck
 
I’ll check out there page, I’ve decided I’ll just have the bolt cut for an m16 extractor and the barrel counter bore opened up for it. I appreciate all the help guys. Does anyone know what counter bore should be opened up to work with the magnum bolt m16 extractor ? I’m reading anywhere from .710-.785
 
Something isn't adding up if you can fully chamber the brass on the old barrel and not the new one.
This makes me think it's one of two things
It's either one of those forehead slapping moments where something simple but not obvious is holding up the extractor.
Or the bore of the barrel is off center and holding the brass off center also.
Can you fully seat a sized case if you set it under the extractor first?

The first thing I would be looking at is how the extractor is moving. Is a bind causing it to miss the groove it needs to recess into?
Is the ejector causing the brass to move tighter to the extractor edge of the bolt face rim and causing the brass to meet the extractor flat on flat? Or not enough ramp on the extractor. A knick or burr keeping it from moving properly under pressure.

You should very easily be able to push the brass straight onto the bolt face if you remove the ejector.

It's seems to be a simple problem. I don't see a need to throw money at it.
I do agree with the ar style extractor tho. It's a good upgrade when the bolt face is opened to belted mag on a rem 700.

Good luck
 
Don't know if anyone is still looking but I had a issue with PTG bolt and a remage barrel. Had a 702 PTG bolt fitted to a Rem 700 action, installed the Criterion remage barrel (6.5 creed) and the bolt lugs hit the end of the barrel before it would close up the headspace. Ended up taking about .030 off the end of the barrel and all was well. Barrel shot very well and lasted well over 3000 rounds. Have since changed it out to a 6mm dasher and in the process of working up a load. Really liked the 6.5 though and may build another.
 
Don"t know if the barrel was out of spec or there is a difference in the PTG bolt and a standard Rem 700 bolt, but taking .030 off the end cured the problem. It let the bolt go in far enough to set correct headspace.
 
Mrmauser,

What was the final resolution with this barrel/action problem?
I sent my bolt to area 419 where they did an excellent job of installing there m16 style extractor. I’ve yet to work up a good load for this rifle yet but will one of these days. It’s works fine now since the bolt extractor mod though. I think as stated before my factory extractor just wasn’t going to cut it on the wm
 
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