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removal of upside down primers

nnn66

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Dec 6, 2006
194
2
Texas
Back before I purchased a hand priming tool, I was using the priming arm on my Rock Chucker and had a recurring problem with primers flipping in the priming cup as I was seating them. As a result, I now have a collection of 338LM Lapua brass with improperly seated primers. Some are sideways and some are completely upside down. I think I have about 4 or 5 of each.

I took one of the ones with a sideways primer and put it in a shellholder on my press and then tapped the primer out with a universal de-priming pin and a mallet. It easily popped right out. Of course, I was wearing safety glasses while I did it, but I was a little uncomfortable doing it. Now I'm wondering how wise it is to try to remove those that are seated completely upside down? Anybody have any experience doing this or advice on whether I should attempt it. I hate to throw out 10 unfired Lapua cases, but I don't want to have an accident either. Was thinking I might wear a clear full-face shield and some welding gloves and just go ahead and punch them all out. Any suggestions?
 
you might could try soaking the primers in something (water, oil, etc) before trying to remove.
 
Upside down, sideways primers happens to me more frequently than I'd like to admit. Usually on my progressive reloaders but sometimes one slips by on my hand primer. I set those rounds asside until I have 8 or 10, then I clean all powder reminants off my bench and put all other powder primers and powder away. Just to be sure that if one touches off I won't end up with the Fourth of July on my hands. Then use my sizer die in my single stage press to carefully remove the primers. Use safety glasses for shure and ear-pro if you think you need it. Just take your time and go easy. I have never set off a primer this way, and I use the primers that were just upside down and not bent up.
Good luck
 
I use a Lee universal decapping die. It's press mounted.
For upside down primmer I just use slow steady pressure to push it out. I do use safety goggles, welder glove and stand back. Always a bit unnerving. :)
I don't like the idea of tapping it out with pen and a mallet. Sounds too much like a firing pin.

Best
caveman
 
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Thanks for the replies. I just talked with one of my friends who has been reloading for many years and I asked him about this. He said he just uses the re-sizing die and de-primes them when this happens. He said he usually throws a towel over the whole thing while he does it, just in case, but that he's never had one go off. I agree, Caveman, that the mallet idea does seem a little too similar to a firing pin, so I won't be doing that again.
 
I always thought WD-40 killed primers until I saw a posted test. Guy soaked loose primers for a week in WD-40, loaded them and every one of them still popped.
(I just use safety glasses and gently push them out with resizing die.)
Here is an interesting article on primer kill tests:

Members Articles-To Kill A Primer
 
Just run them through the decapper die again --- slow. I've done this many many times removing backwards, forwards, sideways, and FUBAR crushed primers with no incident whatsoever. Also do not be afraid to re-use the primer as long as it looks OK and the anvil didn't fall out.
No need to attempt to kill the primer. See pics I stole from another forum. If these didn't detonate then yours will not detonate simply from pushing them out of the case. DSC_560901.jpgDSC_561601.jpg
 
I have always just ran them through the decapping die with slow steady pressure. Never had one go off.
 
You pressed the primer into the pocket with a small ram. You can safely press (NOT tap) it out with your decapping tool, whatever you use.

Since the primer may well have been damaged in the process, personally I would reseat the primer properly and fire it from the otherwise empty brass case. Don't need a misfire at the range for $0.03.
 
had lots of primers go off while seating, none while decapping live ones

I'm curious--why did they go off, if you know? I've totally FUBAR'd primers pressing them in sideways and any other position you can name with no explosions. I'm not challenging your statement, I just want to learn so that I never DO have one go off. I have seen kaboom reports with progressive loaders but if I understand it correctly something went wrong with the feed tubes or whatever, not due to actually seating the primers.
 
I'm curious--why did they go off, if you know? I've totally FUBAR'd primers pressing them in sideways and any other position you can name with no explosions. I'm not challenging your statement, I just want to learn so that I never DO have one go off. I have seen kaboom reports with progressive loaders but if I understand it correctly something went wrong with the feed tubes or whatever, not due to actually seating the primers.

some were in sideways, most I never investigated, in a dillon 1050 the primer area is obscured
 
I use a Lee universal decapping die. It's press mounted.
For upside down primmer I just use slow steady pressure to push it out. I do use safety goggles, welder glove and stand back. Always a bit unnerving. :)
I don't like the idea of tapping it out with pen and a mallet. Sounds too much like a firing pin.

Best
caveman

Just run them through the decapper die again --- slow. I've done this many many times removing backwards, forwards, sideways, and FUBAR crushed primers with no incident whatsoever. Also do not be afraid to re-use the primer as long as it looks OK and the anvil didn't fall out.
No need to attempt to kill the primer. See pics I stole from another forum. If these didn't detonate then yours will not detonate simply from pushing them out of the case. View attachment 22155View attachment 22156

I have always just ran them through the decapping die with slow steady pressure. Never had one go off.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ This^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Same technique here. Decapping die with SLOW pressure.
 
I use a Lee universal decapping die. It's press mounted.
For upside down primmer I just use slow steady pressure to push it out. I do use safety goggles, welder glove and stand back. Always a bit unnerving. :)
I don't like the idea of tapping it out with pen and a mallet. Sounds too much like a firing pin.

Best
caveman

Caveman must be as good looking and intelligent as I am, I also use a Lee universal decapping die. :)

Using a universal decapping die is much safer I feel because this type die is wide open on the inside and less confining and restrictive should the primer discharge. Having said this in 46 years of reloading I have never had a primer go off when seating or removing a primer. The key words here are "SLOWLY REMOVE" the primer and you will be home free. Just remember safety glasses, flack jackets and ballistic gloves are optional. I wear glasses all the time and these are the only safety items I use when removing primers.
 
I'm curious--why did they go off, if you know? I've totally FUBAR'd primers pressing them in sideways and any other position you can name with no explosions. I'm not challenging your statement, I just want to learn so that I never DO have one go off. I have seen kaboom reports with progressive loaders but if I understand it correctly something went wrong with the feed tubes or whatever, not due to actually seating the primers.

I had one go off when seating once due to some corn cob tumbling media that was caught in the flash hole. Was wearing safety glasses (for some odd reason I was wearing them, though before this, I rarely did) and still burned my forehead with the flash from the primer going off. Now I always wear safety glasses and keep the mouth of the case pointed in a safe direction (and carefully inspect all the cases before priming). I didn't have to clean out my drawers after this incident, but it definitely rattled me...
 
I had one go off when seating once due to some corn cob tumbling media that was caught in the flash hole. Was wearing safety glasses (for some odd reason I was wearing them, though before this, I rarely did) and still burned my forehead with the flash from the primer going off. Now I always wear safety glasses and keep the mouth of the case pointed in a safe direction (and carefully inspect all the cases before priming). I didn't have to clean out my drawers after this incident, but it definitely rattled me...

A primer is pretty stout ain't it? I had a Detonics combat master .45 several years ago and had loaded some 230gr cast lead bullets for it. Apparently I missed powdering one of the rounds and just the primer by itself put that heavy bullet out the barrel and about 10 ft downrange. Granted the barrel was only 3.25", including the chamber, but that's still pretty good power from a primer alone.
 
Boxer primers have an integral anvil that needs to be up against the bottom of the pocket to function properly. Berdan anvils are part of the case. Anvil of inverted primer is open to the air, but I would never hit one. Push it.
 
Thanks for the replies. I just talked with one of my friends who has been reloading for many years and I asked him about this. He said he just uses the re-sizing die and de-primes them when this happens. He said he usually throws a towel over the whole thing while he does it, just in case, but that he's never had one go off....

This is exactly what I do, never had one go off either but I put the towel over it just in case. The primer goes in the trash after that, I can't see trying to re-use a primer that's been pressed in and out of a case. As someone else said they're 3 cents each, just pony up the cash for a new one.
 
If it worries you, you can flick the anvil out of the primer before pushing it back out and then there isn't much chance of an explosion. The priming compound needs to be pressed between to harder materials for there to be enough pressure, usually a pretty good strike by the firing pin.
 
I decap them with a Lee universal die, never had an issue. I even dropped the handle on once and let the ram go up rather fast and nothing happened.
 
One thing to think about. If a primer is not fully seated, and you try to fire it, it may misfire the first time, as the firing pin has to push the primer in until the anvil contacts the case. And THEN you can get the firing pin strike to actually set off the primer.

So if the primer is in upside down, the anvil is not supported, so the primer is unlikely to go off. It could, so take precautions, but it is not that likely.