What are my options for a relatively cheap hand tool? I've been looking at the L.E. Wilson one for like $45. Any others I'm overlooking?
- Thread starter dang472
- Start date
Re: Removing 50BMG primer crimp
I bet you could take a Lyman VLD chamfer tool and CAREFULLY grind down the tip until, when the new flat on the tip bottoms out in the pocket, the tapered sided reamer would just remove the crimp. Ought to be cheap enough.
I bet you could take a Lyman VLD chamfer tool and CAREFULLY grind down the tip until, when the new flat on the tip bottoms out in the pocket, the tapered sided reamer would just remove the crimp. Ought to be cheap enough.
Re: Removing 50BMG primer crimp
I actually used a Lyman deburring/chamfering tool to do some brass that was staked in 3 places. I'm planning on ordering some once-fired Lake City and that looks like a lot bigger crimp.
I actually used a Lyman deburring/chamfering tool to do some brass that was staked in 3 places. I'm planning on ordering some once-fired Lake City and that looks like a lot bigger crimp.
Re: Removing 50BMG primer crimp
Any old counter sink will work.
Any old counter sink will work.
Re: Removing 50BMG primer crimp
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: zuke</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Any old counter sink will work. </div></div>
X2
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: zuke</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Any old counter sink will work. </div></div>
X2
Re: Removing 50BMG primer crimp
Damn, that's a great idea.
Damn, that's a great idea.
Re: Removing 50BMG primer crimp
I use the regular Lyman 50 bmg deburring tool, works great. I've tried a couple of countersinks, but they chatter.
I use the regular Lyman 50 bmg deburring tool, works great. I've tried a couple of countersinks, but they chatter.
Re: Removing 50BMG primer crimp
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Iamironman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use the regular Lyman 50 bmg deburring tool, works great. I've tried a couple of countersinks, but they chatter. </div></div>
I chuck'em in my small bench top drill press and run it as fast as it'll go.
I get a spray of dust for a split second and their done.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Iamironman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use the regular Lyman 50 bmg deburring tool, works great. I've tried a couple of countersinks, but they chatter. </div></div>
I chuck'em in my small bench top drill press and run it as fast as it'll go.
I get a spray of dust for a split second and their done.
Re: Removing 50BMG primer crimp
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kd185</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: zuke</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Any old counter sink will work. </div></div>
X2 </div></div>
X3! I have been using a counter sink for at least a couple of decades to remove the primer crimp from all of the military brass that I load.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kd185</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: zuke</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Any old counter sink will work. </div></div>
X2 </div></div>
X3! I have been using a counter sink for at least a couple of decades to remove the primer crimp from all of the military brass that I load.
Re: Removing 50BMG primer crimp
You could use a regular countersink like everyone else has said. I have a remover on my press but rarely use it. I have a pretty nice multi tool from CH4D that works REAL nice. Don't go to far you need the brass there to keep that primer in place so you don't start flame cutting your bolt. That is why I hand turn my primer pocket uniformer.
You could use a regular countersink like everyone else has said. I have a remover on my press but rarely use it. I have a pretty nice multi tool from CH4D that works REAL nice. Don't go to far you need the brass there to keep that primer in place so you don't start flame cutting your bolt. That is why I hand turn my primer pocket uniformer.
