Gunsmithing Removing RPR brake

[ZenBiker990]

Need to remove the brake from my RPR to install a different design. I see in the manual the brake has a "lock nut" - makes sense, makes it easy to clock mass produced brakes. Does anyone know if Ruger uses any threadlocker, and is there any better way to remove the factory brake? Nothing I've done on these rifles has been easy compared to others, but since they're so popular I need to learn the platform. Thanks in advance for any advice

Wes

 

[rg1911]

Surprisingly sparse on answers here.

Standard questions:

Have you been able to loosen the lock nut? Does it have a set screw?
If the lock nut doesn't loosen with normal procedures, including big vise grips or similar (maybe padded with sheet lead), have you applied heat? (I'd favor a heat gun before resorting to a torch.)

If the lock nut loosens without heat, is the brake still tight? If so, it might have some type of adhesive on it. If so, try the heat gun.

If that fails, I would hope a more-experienced person might contribute to the discussion.

Good luck,
Richard

 

[ZenBiker990]

There are no set screws. I know Ruger uses a jam nut to index the brake. I know the jam nut needs to be unscrewed away from the brake body, and then the brake can be threaded off.

Pretty straightforward.

The jam nut on mine is tight. Either through torque or threadlocker. i soaked the muzzle in water overnight in case it was Rocksett, then used a heat gun (actually a plastic welding gun) until the entire brake and nut were too hot to touch nut not smoking. Still the jam nut has not given up. I'm assuming its due to some assembly processRuger uses, and I was just asking if anyone had any specific insight into it. Like I said, this platform is not forgiving when I've done "routine" swap-outs, so I'm exercising caution in asking what seem like foolish questions rather than make assumptions and ruin something. Thanks for the thought process, I think I know how I'm going to approach this now.

 

[ZenBiker990]

OK, success, and as I thought, more involved than any muzle decice swap I've ever done. Clamped the barrel in an aluminum vise with leather padding dusted with rosin. Wrench on the jam nut, a long steel punch thru the center holes of the brake. Heat until too hot to touch; apply simultaneous torque on the wrench/jam nut as if you were tightening it on the barrel, reverse torque on the punch handle as if you were loosening the brake body. It took at least 50 lb-ft before there was a sudden "snap", and everything was then loose. The threads on the muzzle, brake body, and jam nut were oily and free if any threadlocking residue, so this was all thread preload - like they used the lug nut wrench from the corner Tire Rack to install the system. Like I said, this is a different beast. Hope this helps somebody else.

 

[BallisticSam]

Well Balls! it's never easy. I planned on taking mine off when my suppressor gets here its a direct thread. But also mine game in with the brake slightly canted so its bugging me. I've also consider taking the barrel down to 20" so the can isn't sticking out so far. I really need someone with a barrel vise. Local smith will have one.

 

[ZenBiker990]

Be aware the finish in the barrel is does not seem as hard as mil-spec; the rosin leather jaws on my aluminum vise altered the surface texture noticeably, but its only a can of AlumaHyde away from renewal. You should pass this on to your gunsmith so he can take precautions.

 

[BallisticSam]

Okay I will thank you!

 

[EarlSwagger66]

I just completed removal of the brake on my RPR .338 Lapua. Thanks to the previous posters for tips.

It didn’t work like it should. As previously stated, here and elsewhere that I read, you have the muzzle brake and the jamb nut. Generally you should turn the jamb nut as though to tighten it on the barrel while simultaneously turning the brake the opposite direction, and the two should come loose. Then you unthread the assembly off of the barrel. I started with a 15” crescent and a 1 1/8” combination wrench. No. Applied heat with heat gun and tried again. No. Swapped 15” crescent for 24.” Applied heat once more. No. Then, disgusted, just for kicks tried turning the lock but the other way, as if to loosen it. The entire assembly turned. I went ahead and took it off since I could. But the lock nut and brake are still jammed together.

Wanted to share and hope this helps someone in the future.

 

[Doc68]

There was no thread locker on my brake. I removed mine to replace with an AAC Brake. Just hold the lock washer and twist the brake off. I used an adjustable wrench to hold the lock washer and a screwdriver to turn the brake itself. Came right off.

 

[Carlos Danger]

 

[EarlSwagger66]

There was no thread locker on my brake. I removed mine to replace with an AAC Brake. Just hold the lock washer and twist the brake off. I used an adjustable wrench to hold the lock washer and a screwdriver to turn the brake itself. Came right off.

Thanks. I put on a Fat Bastard.

 

[huang]

EarlSwagger66 is the fat bastard an improvement

 

[EarlSwagger66]

EarlSwagger66 is the fat bastard an improvement

Haven’t been to the range with it yet. I’ll let you know, hopefully within the next week or so.

 

[immils]

There was no thread locker on my brake. I removed mine to replace with an AAC Brake. Just hold the lock washer and twist the brake off. I used an adjustable wrench to hold the lock washer and a screwdriver to turn the brake itself. Came right off.

This process worked like a charm but I did have Blue thread locker on mine.

 

[jgmartin]

I replaced mine with a hellfire brake recently... didn’t seem to have the same trouble. I was able to break the jam nut with just an adjustable wrench and my wife holding the rifle steady. Just gave it a solid whack with a dead blow. Once it was loose, the brake threaded off normally.

 

[EarlSwagger66]

EarlSwagger66 is the fat bastard an improvement

Finally got to the range today with the RPR (.338 LM). As a reminder I put an APA Fat Bastard on it to replace the stock. Excellent. A very noticeable improvement in recoil. If I had to estimate I’d say a 40% reduction. Way more pleasant to shoot.

 

[Coronado126]

FYI guys on the large bore RPR brake, all you have to do is loosen the nut by turning it towards the body of the brake and turning the entire assembly off

The nut on this brake is very thin compared to most others and is a apart of the brake.

 

[tttkent]

This process worked like a charm but I did have Blue thread locker on mine.

I just changed the Ruger brake on my RPR .308 to a Witt Threaded brake. I encountered the same issue and then read this forum. Used a 7/8 inch wrench on the locknut and long shank screwdriver on the brake. She broke free and I unscrewed the brake then locknut. Great tip. It shot good before using factory and reloads but the muzzle jump was what I wanted to control. Will post again after the rain stops and I get to the range.
Y’all have a great day and keep on keeping on!

 

[Snuby642]

A note on removal of muzzle devices that have been rocksett.

You need a 3lb butter tub and boiling water.
Put it barrel down in tub fill with boiling water.
Repeat with fresh boiling water 3 times. 10 minute intervals.

Comes right off.

No overnite soak required.

 

[tttkent]

A note on removal of muzzle devices that have been rocksett.

You need a 3lb butter tub and boiling water.
Put it barrel down in tub fill with boiling water.
Repeat with fresh boiling water 3 times. 10 minute intervals.

Comes right off.

No overnite soak required.

OMG! What a great way to break threads with thread locking compound without stress of overheating the parent metal. This technique should be able to be used on other applications!
I love creative minds that indicate thoughtful, safe means are attainable when Like minded people communicate.
Thank you for sharing this technique!

 

[Doc68]

That only works on rocksett sadly. Any kind of thread locker especially the red stuff has to be heat with a flame.

 

[tttkent]

That only works on rocksett sadly. Any kind of thread locker especially the red stuff has to be heat with a flame.

I have had success on Red 271 using a 1000 watt heat gun. Had to keep the nozzle moving and the threads finally give in. I never thought about using a flame on barrel metal.
Another way to make stubborn threads succumb to the persistent Smith!

 

[Snuby642]

True that is why we use rockset on muzzle devices easy removal.

Can adapters are critical to stay put so no damage to expensive suppressors happens.

I have carnal knowledge of that.

It's no more than 212 degrees can't cause any harm.

I like that about it.

 

[hlee]

The brake on my RPR came off without the necessity of so much as a barrel Vice.

The cherry bomb that I put on a stainless JP barrel with rockset, however, required being boiled in water for 10 minutes x2 (not simply soaked in hot water, but actively boiled using a jet boil stove) and an impact wrench to remove...

 

[tttkent]

The brake on my RPR came off without the necessity of so much as a barrel Vice.

The cherry bomb that I put on a stainless JP barrel with rockset, however, required being boiled in water for 10 minutes x2 (not simply soaked in hot water, but actively boiled using a jet boil stove) and an impact wrench to remove...

Wow! I am curious about the thread condition after needing an impact wrench to remove the brake. I have installed about a dozen brakes this year and it is very interesting reading about the RPR. Mine was much easier after reading the thread using a wrench on the locknut and screwdriver through the baffle on the brake. I reckon I was just lucky.
Thank you for posting another thread concerning the RPR. I love mine and hopefully I will get some loads worked up to get my dope sheet out past 1500 yards.
You have a great day!
tttkent

 

[Doc68]

Only issue I had was with the original barrel and getting the barrel nut off.

 

[immils]

I just changed the Ruger brake on my RPR .308 to a Witt Threaded brake. I encountered the same issue and then read this forum. Used a 7/8 inch wrench on the locknut and long shank screwdriver on the brake. She broke free and I unscrewed the brake then locknut. Great tip. It shot good before using factory and reloads but the muzzle jump was what I wanted to control. Will post again after the rain stops and I get to the range.
Y’all have a great day and keep on keeping on!

I replaced mine with a T4 Terminator and my 300 PRC now kicks like a 6.5 Creedmor. Highly recommend the Terminator brake!

 

[Doc68]

I have the M4-72 brake, but haven't been able to test it out yet. It's on a 6BR barrel for my RPR. Can't wait for my neck to get better.

 

[Matthew488]

Just got my Terminator T4 brake and hoping to get it swapped out this week and test.