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Resizing...help please

L2bravo

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Nov 19, 2012
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Republic of Texas.
Ok, , so I’m new to reloading.
Here’s where I’m at, please direct me where to go.

I’ve worked up a load for my 308 RPR, and drilling sub MOA @100, for now.

What I’m doing:
Hornady dies, full length resizing, trimming cases to 2.005 +\-, bullet seat @ 2.75”

I’ve had perfect feeding/chambering. No issues at all.

So I see some guys talk good and bad about neck sizing. What exactly is it? Does it bump the shoulders? Will I run into reliability issues chambering? Can I gain anything?

I want to learn more, not start a purse swinging fight. Please give me some direction. Thanks guys.
 
A neck sizing die resizes only the neck. They generally do not touch the shoulder. After a few firings, you may have difficulty chambering and will have to Full length size. There may be some potential accuracy advantages when neck sizing brass previously shot from your rifle, but that's debatable. I'd say if you need reliability for a hunting or match rig, I would stick with full length.
 
A neck sizing die resizes only the neck. They generally do not touch the shoulder. After a few firings, you may have difficulty chambering and will have to Full length size. There may be some potential accuracy advantages when neck sizing brass previously shot from your rifle, but that's debatable. I'd say if you need reliability for a hunting or match rig, I would stick with full length.

I do hunt/shoot a lot, but don’t shoot matches.
I dont have problems right now, and ain’t shopping for any.

So what about bump dies, that bump the shoulder? I’ve read it’s less hard on the cases.
Or just keep FL sizing?
 
I do hunt/shoot a lot, but don’t shoot matches.
I dont have problems right now, and ain’t shopping for any.

So what about bump dies, that bump the shoulder? I’ve read it’s less hard on the cases.
Or just keep FL sizing?

You can get a neck sizing/ shoulder bump die that will both size the neck and set neck tension as well as bump the shoulder back. These are easier on brass as they do not size the whole piece of brass like a full length sizing die does. I personally alternate between full length sizing and neck sizing/shoulder bumping every reloading, and anneal every third firing. If prolonging your brass life is a goal, then you should minimize working the brass if you can.
 
Bump sizing can be done with a regular FL die or with what is called FL bushing die.

The process of bump sizing just means that you are only bumping the shoulder as far back as necessary to get the brass to chamber. If you size to Sammi spec Everytime which is how most die instructions have you set up the die, you are unnecessarily overworking the brass. The brass will fail sooner than if you just size the brass back a thou or two.

A bushing die in it's basic sense, allows the reloader to size brass without having to use and expander ball, which you still could if you want, to control the amount of working of the case mouth and thereby also control the amount of neck tension. You use a bushing that squeezes the neck down a few thou to hold the bullet in the case mouth rather than again sizing back down to minimums.
 
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Bump sizing can be done with a regular FL die or with what is called FL bushing die.

The process of bump sizing just means that you are only bumping the shoulder as far back as necessary to get the brass to chamber. If you size to Sammi spec Everytime which is how most die instructions have you set up the die, you are unnecessarily overworking the brass. The brass will fail sooner than if you just size the brass back a thou or two.

A bushing die in it's basic sense, allows the reloader to size brass without having to use and expander ball, which you still could if you want, to control the amount of working of the case mouth and thereby also control the amount of neck tension. You use a bushing that squeezes the neck down a few thou to hold the bullet in the case mouth rather than again sizing back down to minimums.

Thanks husky. So where/should I look for in bushing dies? What brand in other words.

What do you do on sizing? Thanks as always.
 
Last edited:
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Ok, , so I’m new to reloading.
Here’s where I’m at, please direct me where to go.

I’ve worked up a load for my 308 RPR, and drilling sub MOA @100, for now.

What I’m doing:
Hornady dies, full length resizing, trimming cases to 2.005 +\-, bullet seat @ 2.75”

I’ve had perfect feeding/chambering. No issues at all.

So I see some guys talk good and bad about neck sizing. What exactly is it? Does it bump the shoulders? Will I run into reliability issues chambering? Can I gain anything?

I want to learn more, not start a purse swinging fight. Please give me some direction. Thanks guys.
I recommend getting a comparator for checking shoulder bump at the datum line. So cartridge base to the spot on the shoulder that measures .400". Whatever the measurement is, set your sizing die to bump it back 1.5 to 2 thousandths. So if your measurement is 1.625", set up your die to size it to 1.623". Neck sizing squeezes the neck back down to hold a bullet, but leaves the shoulder untouched. You'll be able to fire it a few times before it gets to hard to chamber, then you'll have to full length size again. I prefer to full length size every time. I believe consistency and reliability is more important than an ultra tight fit in the chamber. You may also look into the JB bore paste / Kroil cleaning regimen. I have cut group sizes in half by scrubbing the carbon out of the barrel. There are plenty of proven 308 loads you can try, you'll find one that will put them into one hole. Also, if you don't have a mentor, start shopping. An experienced hand loader can save you thousands of hours and dollars.
 
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I recommend getting a comparator for checking shoulder bump at the datum line. So cartridge base to the spot on the shoulder that measures .400". Whatever the measurement is, set your sizing die to bump it back 1.5 to 2 thousandths. So if your measurement is 1.625", set up your die to size it to 1.623". Neck sizing squeezes the neck back down to hold a bullet, but leaves the shoulder untouched. You'll be able to fire it a few times before it gets to hard to chamber, then you'll have to full length size again. I prefer to full length size every time. I believe consistency and reliability is more important than an ultra tight fit in the chamber. You may also look into the JB bore paste / Kroil cleaning regimen. I have cut group sizes in half by scrubbing the carbon out of the barrel. There are plenty of proven 308 loads you can try, you'll find one that will put them into one hole. Also, if you don't have a mentor, start shopping. An experienced hand loader can save you thousands of hours and dollars.

Got the comparators! Thanks for letting me know the importance. I’ve got my load dialed in, just searching for consistency and keeping on to improve.
 
I suggest you buy "Top Grade Ammo" by Glen Zediker and read it cover to cover. I found lots of really good reloading info in it.