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Ruger American Ranch Upgrade

K

K15G

Private
Minuteman
Aug 18, 2020
11
5
Looking to improve my ruger American Ranch in .223.

For a cheap gun it does the job. Looking for some suggestions on an improved stock. The factory option is flimsy and twists. It will be a gun I walk lots of miles in so I am looking for something similar in weight, polymer composite is fine, traditional style or similar better as I am in Australia and we can’t have scary looking guns.

If I need to change magazine types that’s no big issue either.

Thanks
 
Boyds stocks and Magpul stocks. I put a Boyds AT-One on my kids 6 Creed. Great adjustability and a lot better than the factory Ruger stock. Not Sure if you can get these in Australia though.
Here is what i have,

Build & Price Gunstock Configurator | Boyds Hardwood Gunstocks

Shop hardwood gunstocks for any make, model, and action with the Boyds Gunstock Configurator. Choose from several wood and finish options.
www.boydsgunstocks.com www.boydsgunstocks.com
 
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Noticed the other day that Bell & Carlson has Ruger American replacement stocks AND bottom metal. No actual experience with it.
The combo would cost what the rifle does, but, if you like the rifle…..
 
I'm in the same situation. I've been looking at the Bell & Carlson, MDT Oryx, Trybe ROCS, and KRG Bravo stocks. In another thread I think someone from MDT eluded to a possible release of their field stock for the Ruger Americans around Thanksgiving.

While I'm not having to hike multiple miles with my rifle I'm trying to decide if the increase in weight it worth it to get a more rigid stock. For example my rifle will probably come in roughly between 9.5 and 10.1 pounds (depending on scope choice) with the Bell and Carlson sporter style stock. If I were to go with a MDT Oryx chassis I'm looking at a solid 11 to 12 pounds. Currently it's sitting right at 8.5 pounds so any of these are pretty big increase.

LR
 
K15G said:
Looking to improve my ruger American Ranch in .223.

For a cheap gun it does the job. Looking for some suggestions on an improved stock. The factory option is flimsy and twists. It will be a gun I walk lots of miles in so I am looking for something similar in weight, polymer composite is fine, traditional style or similar better as I am in Australia and we can’t have scary looking guns.

If I need to change magazine types that’s no big issue either.

Thanks
Click to expand...

I have a Ranch in 300 BO. The stock was very wobbly. I was going to get a Boyd’s but since I was going to throw the factory stock away I decided to play with it first.

Following write ups I found here and sanded the front end out so there was a good gap with the barrel. I mixed up some 5 minute epoxy, mixed lead shot into it, and used this to fill the hollows in the forearm. Made the stock feel better weight and balance wise and no more flex or twisting.

Might be worth a try since the cost is almost zero.
 
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Bandit320 said:
I have a Ranch in 300 BO. The stock was very wobbly. I was going to get a Boyd’s but since I was going to throw the factory stock away I decided to play with it first.

Following write ups I found here and sanded the front end out so there was a good gap with the barrel. I mixed up some 5 minute epoxy, mixed lead shot into it, and used this to fill the hollows in the forearm. Made the stock feel better weight and balance wise and no more flex or twisting.

Might be worth a try since the cost is almost zero.
Click to expand...
To be honest I personally have went back and fourth on trying this vs buying a new stock. Beyond adding a drastically better scope than what I currently have on my rifle I really don't want to spend a lot of money on it or add a lot of extra weight. I'll probably try this first and see how I like it. I'm not hunting with a bipod so it will probably work just fine for me. Not about OP or not.

Out of curiosity have you tried yours with a bipod after filling the front of your stock?

LR
 
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I’ve just shot a quick group of 5 in my yard at 50 yards, not a great test but it’s been busy recently. I will say it grouped about a 1/3 smaller then before and flex was gone. I used a bipod and seems more stable.
 
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I have one friend who had an early model Ranch .223 with the Rotary mag. and traded it for another with the AR magwell.
Both shot very well in the factory stock.
Another .243 I scoped and sighted in for a friend did right around 1” for 3 shots with Federal Blue Box.
I am no fan of the factory stock. It’s a limp noodle and I’m not wild about the ergos, but I think it’s a case of “it’ll never not be minute-of-front-half-of-deer”.
Even better with some tweaking.
 
K15G said:
Looking to improve my ruger American Ranch in .223.

For a cheap gun it does the job. Looking for some suggestions on an improved stock. The factory option is flimsy and twists. It will be a gun I walk lots of miles in so I am looking for something similar in weight, polymer composite is fine, traditional style or similar better as I am in Australia and we can’t have scary looking guns.

If I need to change magazine types that’s no big issue either.

Thanks
Click to expand...
For my .300 BLK Ranch, I went with the Magpul Hunter Ruger Short-Action stock (AICS) and use the Magpul AICS .223 mags. Works great. And the AICS .223 mags are much longer (internally) than AR mags, and allow you to seat bullets up near the lands for accuracy.

IMG_6587.jpeg
IMG_6585.jpeg
 
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FuhQ said:
For my .300 BLK Ranch, I went with the Magpul Hunter Ruger Short-Action stock (AICS) and use the Magpul AICS .223 mags. Works great. And the AICS .223 mags are much longer (internally) than AR mags, and allow you to seat bullets up near the lands for accuracy.

View attachment 8267024View attachment 8267025
Click to expand...
What's your impression of the magpul stock? I've read of people still getting a fair amount of flex in the forearm due to the bedding block not extended out.

LR
 
LReece said:
What's your impression of the magpul stock? I've read of people still getting a fair amount of flex in the forearm due to the bedding block not extended out.

LR
Click to expand...
I haven’t felt hindered by the stock at all. It’s a huge upgrade over the cheap plastic factory one.
 
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K15G said:
Looking to improve my ruger American Ranch in .223.

For a cheap gun it does the job. Looking for some suggestions on an improved stock. The factory option is flimsy and twists. It will be a gun I walk lots of miles in so I am looking for something similar in weight, polymer composite is fine, traditional style or similar better as I am in Australia and we can’t have scary looking guns.

If I need to change magazine types that’s no big issue either.

Thanks
Click to expand...
I have a Ranch in 7.62x39, and like you, it's my humping around rifle. The main reason I bought it was because it was so light. I read a lot of posts on the web about how flimsy the stock is. I looked into upgrading, but that's gonna mean adding like 1.5 lbs to the weight of the rifle.

After spending some time with the rifle, I discovered that the stock wasn't an impediment at all, but there were things I didn't like. The stock was too long, the cheek rest was too low and the grip was too horizontal. I also didn't like the mags.

I cut the stock to compact size and added a limbsaver pad (they have one for the Ruger Compact). I added a Matthew's cheek riser and formed a pistol grip out of JB Weld putty and I replaced the magwell with one compatible with AR mags.

The flex in the form end hasn't affected my shooting. In fact, maybe I'm doing something wrong, but when I load my bipod, the stock moves away from the barrel. I get MOAish groups at 100 and banging steel out to 500 hasn't been a problem at all.

Still, if I do go with a different stock, the MDT looks pretty good, as does the KRG.
 
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FuhQ said:
Also, 2 of the best mods you can do, is the 1.5 lbs. Timney Trigger, and Anarchy Outdoors threaded bolt handle and oversized tactical knob.
Click to expand...
I don't know about spending $300 for those 2 accessories on a $500 rifle, not at retail. Eurooptics has the trigger for $109 as of last night.

I am toying with the idea of turning the bolt knob down and threading it for a new knob. Having to replace the whole handle for a new knob is ridiculous, but they are nice.
 
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TonyAngel said:
I don't know about spending $300 for those 2 accessories on a $500 rifle, not at retail. Eurooptics has the trigger for $109 as of last night.

I am toying with the idea of turning the bolt knob down and threading it for a new knob. Having to replace the whole handle for a new knob is ridiculous, but they are nice.
Click to expand...
Time = money. So how long you will spend turning it down & threading it, versus the $100 for a drop-in is kind of dumb, IMO. And with that Timney only being $109 on sale, that’s a no-brainer.

I’ve got a good chunk of money tied up in mine, but the outcome was worth it. I enjoy shooting it much more than in stock form.
 
I don't know about spending $300 for those 2 accessories on a $500 rifle, not at retail. Eurooptics has the trigger for $109 as of last night.
I am toying with the idea of turning the bolt knob down and threading it for a new knob. Having to replace the whole handle for a new knob is ridiculous, but they are nice.
Click to expand...
So this is the issue that I'm having with my rifle. I bought it to have a budget hunting rifle and it's been good for that. But now that I'm looking at putting better glass on it my plans have kind of snow balled and I may be putting unnecessary money into it. I honest don't think I will ever sell it (my son harvested his first deer with it this year) but do I really want to an additional $300 to $500 tied up into a ruger american not counting the scopoe.

LR
 
LReece said:
I don't know about spending $300 for those 2 accessories on a $500 rifle, not at retail. Eurooptics has the trigger for $109 as of last night.

So this is the issue that I'm having with my rifle. I bought it to have a budget hunting rifle and it's been good for that. But now that I'm looking at putting better glass on it my plans have kind of snow balled and I may be putting unnecessary money into it. I honest don't think I will ever sell it (my son harvested his first deer with it this year) but do I really want to an additional $300 to $500 tied up into a ruger american not counting the scopoe.

LR
Click to expand...
If you never plan on selling it, fully-modding and upgrading it will be worth the money, because you will still be using those parts on it every time you shoot it. That money will have not been wasted or lost from resale.
 
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LReece said:
I don't know about spending $300 for those 2 accessories on a $500 rifle, not at retail. Eurooptics has the trigger for $109 as of last night.

So this is the issue that I'm having with my rifle. I bought it to have a budget hunting rifle and it's been good for that. But now that I'm looking at putting better glass on it my plans have kind of snow balled and I may be putting unnecessary money into it. I honest don't think I will ever sell it (my son harvested his first deer with it this year) but do I really want to an additional $300 to $500 tied up into a ruger american not counting the scopoe.

LR
Click to expand...
It is true that you could add what you feel like to enhance the enjoyment of the rifle and make it your own, but the Ruger Americans are kind of a purpose built rifle. Light, robust, no frills work horse. I just don't see the sense in trying to make it something it isn't. I don't look at that rifle and imagine what I'd like. I just determined what it was I didn't like and changed those few things.

FuhQ said:
Time = money. So how long you will spend turning it down & threading it, versus the $100 for a drop-in is kind of dumb, IMO. And with that Timney only being $109 on sale, that’s a no-brainer.

I’ve got a good chunk of money tied up in mine, but the outcome was worth it. I enjoy shooting it much more than in stock form.
Click to expand...

Yep, time is money and no one knows that better than I do, but it doesn't take more than 15 minutes, using nothing more than an angle grinder and belt sander, to turn a bolt knob into a threadable nub. The actual threading only takes a few minutes.

Besides, i enjoy doing those sorts of things. It's too bad that you consider an option to be dumb, perhaps because you're either incapable or in need of justifying your own decisions.
 
TonyAngel said:
It is true that you could add what you feel like to enhance the enjoyment of the rifle and make it your own, but the Ruger Americans are kind of a purpose built rifle. Light, robust, no frills work horse. I just don't see the sense in trying to make it something it isn't. I don't look at that rifle and imagine what I'd like. I just determined what it was I didn't like and changed those few things.



Yep, time is money and no one knows that better than I do, but it doesn't take more than 15 minutes, using nothing more than an angle grinder and belt sander, to turn a bolt knob into a threadable nub. The actual threading only takes a few minutes.

Besides, i enjoy doing those sorts of things. It's too bad that you consider an option to be dumb, perhaps because you're either incapable or in need of justifying your own decisions.
Click to expand...
Actually, I grew up in a steel shop, turned wrenches on my own stuff since I could pick them up, and was a custom metal fabricator, welder, with some machinist training, by trade for over 20 years, and even owned my own business until the Obama economy destroyed it…So, the incapable part is laughable. I absolutely know the value of time. I don’t need to justify my own purchases to anyone but myself. Your assumptions of you holding a superior skill-set to someone you’ve never met, is what is laughable. Sometimes it’s best just not to run your mouth when you don’t actually know someone. 😉👍🏼

Would you care to try that one again with a less snarky know-it-all response?

The reason I said it was dumb, was because the part is only $100, and to make one that looks half as good and quality with trial and error for the proper angle, etc… would take you more time than it would to earn $100. Unless you only care about pure function, without any form…In which case, send it.
 
FuhQ said:
Actually, I grew up in a steel shop, turned wrenches on my own stuff since I could pick them up, and was a custom metal fabricator, welder, with some machinist training, by trade for over 20 years, and even owned my own business until the Obama economy destroyed it…So, the incapable part is laughable. I absolutely know the value of time. I don’t need to justify my own purchases to anyone but myself. Your assumptions of you holding a superior skill-set to someone you’ve never met, is what is laughable. Sometimes it’s best just not to run your mouth when you don’t actually know someone. 😉👍🏼

Would you care to try that one again with a less snarky know-it-all response?

The reason I said it was dumb, was because the part is only $100, and to make one that looks half as good and quality with trial and error for the proper angle, etc… would take you more time than it would to earn $100. Unless you only care about pure function, without any form…In which case, send it.
Click to expand...
Well, apparently, someone can dish it out, but can't take it.
 
TonyAngel said:
Well, apparently, someone can dish it out, but can't take it.
Click to expand...
All I said was it was dumb and time-consuming when you can buy one for $100, and you decided to assume shit, and make accusations. You should look in the mirror while re-reading your post. 👍🏼
 
FuhQ said:
If you never plan on selling it, fully-modding and upgrading it will be worth the money, because you will still be using those parts on it every time you shoot it. That money will have not been wasted or lost from resale.
Click to expand...
This is true and a good way to look at it. Even though my son will probably have his own version of this rifle soon I think it would be good to hand it down to him years down the road. Plus I'll get the use of the upgraded parts now.

LR
 
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FuhQ said:
Also, 2 of the best mods you can do, is the 1.5 lbs. Timney Trigger, and Anarchy Outdoors threaded bolt handle and oversized tactical knob.
Click to expand...

I would have to disagree on the trigger. Not because it doesn't work though. You'll get more bang for your buck just buying the M'Carbo spring kit. I can't tell the difference and so much cheaper.
 
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Mike_in_FL said:
I would have to disagree on the trigger. Not because it doesn't work though. You'll get more bang for your buck just buying the M'Carbo spring kit. I can't tell the difference and so much cheaper.
Click to expand...
There is no comparison between the 2. I have a buddy who did the spring, and I did the full drop in Timney. For $109 on sale, the spring just isn’t worth it. The trigger might be simply lighter with the spring, but the Timney drop in is smoother and has zero creep and over travel.
 
FuhQ said:
There is no comparison between the 2. I have a buddy who did the spring, and I did the full drop in Timney. For $109 on sale, the spring just isn’t worth it. The trigger might be simply lighter with the spring, but the Timney drop in is smoother and has zero creep and over travel.
Click to expand...

I have two of the Timneys and the spring kit between a .223, 7.62x39, and a 6.5 Grendel, and I'll disagree with you.
 
FuhQ said:
There is no comparison between the 2. I have a buddy who did the spring, and I did the full drop in Timney. For $109 on sale, the spring just isn’t worth it. The trigger might be simply lighter with the spring, but the Timney drop in is smoother and has zero creep and over travel.
Click to expand...
That's the other thing I like about MDT. It is affordable.
 
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