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Ruger Precision Rifle - Bolt Won't Close on a Round - Ejector?

Samuel Whittemore

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  • Apr 8, 2018
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    Only 40 rounds into it and the bolt will not close on a round with this new RPR.... So I have been dicking around for two months... I didn't want to ship it back bc do so I have to disassemble everything I installed after market --pita, but on taking it to a gunsmith he was going to charge $200 just to diagnose the problem.

    I found this https://rifleshooter.com/2019/11/my-bolt-wont-close-troubleshooting-seized-ejectors/ But my ejector is not seized.

    Any other ideas?

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    I found in mine that Fed GMM rounds were stiff to close, everything else I ran was fine, including other Fed rounds. This was 6.5CM. Have you tried different ammo?
     
    Bolt closes on an empty chamber just fine?

    Take a round and color it solid in sharpie. Chamber it and see where its scratching. Keep in mind that it will have that ejectors spring tension on it pushing it to one side of the chamber unless you remove it. You wont be looking at those long lengthy scratches, you are looking for radial scratches around the brass where the diameter of something it too big to go into the hole.
     
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    This is nuts. LOL. May have solved the problem... Now it closes fine both hand loads and factor.

    The only thing I did that might have done something --was I depressed the protruding ejector in and out several times. Maybe that got stuck? It didn't appear stuck when I depressed it a few times. But it is brand new so maybe it's stiff?

    Is that something I should dab a drop of oil into?

    No scratches or wear on the sharpie round.

    F! 2 months I wasted not shooting this b/c I'm a total dumb ass. Why I didn't do that first is embarrassing.

    That sharpie trick is a NEAT idea! Thank you!!

    Out of embarrassment I wanted to delete this post... but I'll suffer that in hopes hopefully someone can learn from my retardation. Bah


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    Nice, easy fix lol


    If it were me I would drift the cross pin out and careful to not loose the ejector when it springs out and then I would blast some air down there to clean it out and make sure that if there were debris in there that its out and then reassemble. I would then rub the ejector on an oily rag before putting it back in just so it has a bit of a sheen to it but I would not drop oil into the hole, when oil gets cold and dry it get tacky and sticky and icky and thats not what you want happening down in there again.

    does this go all the way around though?
    1612283329664.png


    6 creed?
     
    I used to have the same issue with my RPR. Every hundred rounds or so I would field strip the bolt and clean it out with some brake cleaner or powder blast. The pin would be a little tight afterwards. But a drop of oil and pressing it down a few times will take care of it.
     
    Nice, easy fix lol


    If it were me I would drift the cross pin out and careful to not loose the ejector when it springs out and then I would blast some air down there to clean it out and make sure that if there were debris in there that its out and then reassemble. I would then rub the ejector on an oily rag before putting it back in just so it has a bit of a sheen to it but I would not drop oil into the hole, when oil gets cold and dry it get tacky and sticky and icky and thats not what you want happening down in there again.

    does this go all the way around though?
    View attachment 7544549

    6 creed?

    Cool! Thanks for that.. it'll be a fun project and get me to know the rifle better.

    Here's a video of the wear. May have been me and how I put it in?

    https://youtu.be/4TqVuBC28zM
     
    I had a barrel I would get different depth readings. I had "ghost" rifling in the free-bore. Chamber was cut with a dull reamer. This was a "custom" barrel. I ended up machining a stop and took a hand reamer and cleaned up the free-bore, got accurate measurements and rifle shot really good.
    The marks on your bullet look like the same problem I had?
     
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    I had a barrel I would get different depth readings. I had "ghost" rifling in the free-bore. Chamber was cut with a dull reamer. This was a "custom" barrel. I ended up machining a stop and took a hand reamer and cleaned up the free-bore, got accurate measurements and rifle shot really good.
    The marks on your bullet look like the same problem I had?

    Wow. That's a bit beyond my comprehension level... lol. Different readings? Readings, with what? Like with a comparator?

    Ghost rifling? I know what rifling is those spiral lines down a barre .. but is ghost rifling? that like a factory mistake it sounds?
     
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    I had a barrel I would get different depth readings. I had "ghost" rifling in the free-bore. Chamber was cut with a dull reamer. This was a "custom" barrel. I ended up machining a stop and took a hand reamer and cleaned up the free-bore, got accurate measurements and rifle shot really good.
    The marks on your bullet look like the same problem I had?
    This is an interesting thought. I have an RPR that will not produce the same measurements no matter what I try. I have tried every technique I can find. I am going to take a closer look at my chamber. 👍
     
    Wow. That's a bit beyond my comprehension level... lol. Different readings? Readings, with what? Like with a comparator?

    Ghost rifling? I know what rifling is those spiral lines down a barre .. but is ghost rifling? that like a factory mistake it sounds?
    Barrels are made from blanks, basically a pipe with rifling from one end to the other. You cut and crown one end and the other has a face design to match your receiver and bolt face. It has a chamber cut wit a certain amount of free bore then the throat and rifling. What some of us do is measure the free bore with the type bullets we shoot and set different amounts of "jump" to optimize accuracy. If the free bore is not cut "clean" it can still have very shallow rifling left. This will give you a fit trying to maximize your set up.
    Hope this helps?
     
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    Barrels are made from blanks, basically a pipe with rifling from one end to the other. You cut and crown one end and the other has a face design to match your receiver and bolt face. It has a chamber cut wit a certain amount of free bore then the throat and rifling. What some of us do is measure the free bore with the type bullets we shoot and set different amounts of "jump" to optimize accuracy. If the free bore is not cut "clean" it can still have very shallow rifling left. This will give you a fit trying to maximize your set up.
    Hope this helps?
    VERY much! TY!
     
    Nice, easy fix lol


    If it were me I would drift the cross pin out and careful to not loose the ejector when it springs out and then I would blast some air down there to clean it out and make sure that if there were debris in there that its out and then reassemble. I would then rub the ejector on an oily rag before putting it back in just so it has a bit of a sheen to it but I would not drop oil into the hole, when oil gets cold and dry it get tacky and sticky and icky and thats not what you want happening down in there again.

    does this go all the way around though?
    View attachment 7544549

    6 creed?
    Also...where the bullet enters the case, I see the copper jacket. Did you leave that spot not Sharpied or that a ring created by the bullet being pulled out of the case slightly?
    This can and does happen to folks seating bullets deep and contacting the rifling. With light neck tension, the rifling can hang on to that bullet and when you eject the round, you can dump a bunch of powder in the action and magazine. Not a real big deal but it's a pain in the rear because now you gotta clean all that out before you touch off another round AND get that bullet out.
     
    Also...where the bullet enters the case, I see the copper jacket. Did you leave that spot not Sharpied or that a ring created by the bullet being pulled out of the case slightly?
    This can and does happen to folks seating bullets deep and contacting the rifling. With light neck tension, the rifling can hang on to that bullet and when you eject the round, you can dump a bunch of powder in the action and magazine. Not a real big deal but it's a pain in the rear because now you gotta clean all that out before you touch off another round AND get that bullet out.
    This little ring?... Not sharpied.

    20210202_081858_resized.jpg


    I learned what a mess powder was when either a primer fell out or I somehow missed seatng one and I filled it (usually I rub my finger across the base to make sure the primer is seated flush) .... there went 72.5 grains of powder flying around inside my ammo case.
     
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    VERY much! TY!
    Here is what I would do: build a dummy round, ink the bullet up with a majic marker like you did, next insert into the chamber but do not use the bolt. Just push it in as far as it will go, maybe use a wooden dowel rod. Then take a dewey rod and push it out from the crown of the barrel. This way the cartridge is not side loaded due to the ejector. See if you have faint rifling marks on the dummy bullet. See if this helps? (y)
     
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    Here is what I would do: build a dummy round, ink the bullet up with a majic marker like you did, next insert into the chamber but do not use the bolt. Just push it in as far as it will go, maybe use a wooden dowel rod. Then take a dewey rod and push it out from the crown of the barrel. This way the cartridge is not side loaded due to the ejector. See if you have faint rifling marks on the dummy bullet. See if this helps? (y)
    Thanks Man! I will do that late next week when I reload after Tues. range day.
     
    Thanks Man! I will do that late next week when I reload after Tues. range day.
    Let me know what you come up with? I've learned quite a bit about seating depth. The picture on my avatar was a 1" group @200 yds. 308 2.800" mag length. I set my depth to "0". Ojive right at the lands the gun shoot sub 1/4" groups all day at 200 yrds. I found this to be true on just about every rifle I have. Good luck.
    Hit me up if you need anything? (y)
     
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    Also check the diameter of the case down by the rim. I have had issue with that using reloads shot from a different gun. .001 bigger where the case does not get sized will cause that.
     
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    mine is doing the same thing. so you guys are saying its the ejector mine was shooting fine 6.5 creedmoor my ogive was at 2.200 20thou off the lands. goes in and out of my savage 110 heavy barrel no problems. but my rpr with a ibi barrel loads no problem, ejecting is i have to bang the bolt back hard to get them back out. havent used the gun in a couple weeks, so your saying the ejector is gummed up and such??
     

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    mine is doing the same thing. so you guys are saying its the ejector mine was shooting fine 6.5 creedmoor my ogive was at 2.200 20thou off the lands. goes in and out of my savage 110 heavy barrel no problems. but my rpr with a ibi barrel loads no problem, ejecting is i have to bang the bolt back hard to get them back out. havent used the gun in a couple weeks, so your saying the ejector is gummed up and such??
    Do the sharpie trick and report back.
     
    did the sharpie trick and this is what i got. bolt closes, but extrating have to bang the bolt handle to get them out. weird was shooting the same ogive last week . 2.20 147gr eld match hornady
     

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    Hard to make out what you’re getting at. You saying it’s hard to eject live rounds or spent casings? Either way, looks like a carbon ring to me.
     
    you think so.????
    I’d wager that there’s resistance when you close the bolt on a live round. But are you saying it’s hard to open the bolt to eject a live round? Or a spent round? Either way, the way the sharpie is smeared on the bearing surface of that live round looks to me like a carbon ring.
     
    Guy at my K&M training kept having similar issue with his RPR. Someone there took apart his bolt, brake cleaned it, and did a couple shots of spray oil on the parts, put it back together and it worked mostly fine. He did keep having trouble stripping a round - bolt would stop. Wasn't a good example of an RPR, if I'm honest. He shot well, though!
     
    having trouble ejecting a live round. this is a dumby round i loaded, that has been the length that i have been loading too. one guy told me its the ejector pin but cleaned it now another is saying a carbon ring. weird thing is if i do a seating length test with my gauge, i'am way below length of what i used to be. i'am getting tired of fighting with this gun!!!!
     

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    This is the point you should use a bore scope to see what's going on. It could very well be an undercut freebore if you can see the lands go almost to the case mouth.
    For example. Had to send the barrel back to get fixed.
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    well my scope is not the best and these are the only pics i could get of the bore
     

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    I don’t know jack about an RPR. But if it used to not give you trouble and now it does, and the bullet comes out smeared around the bearing surface, my money is on a carbon ring. How many rounds through it? I have one that will make a carbon ring in 50 rounds or less
     
    so an update with rounds not fitting on the ogive length i was doing. so the first picture is of the measurement i was getting when i was running into trouble with my load length of 2.20 ogive i had been doing before. notice the low number on the gauge. after buying some clr and carbon remover for guns, and some wipe out cleaner. i started to work on the barrel. i dipped a patch in clr and put the rifle in a vise with a rag on my basement floor,and with my patch rod, inserted it into the chamber to let it sit and do its work. after about a hour i took a barrel brush and started to run it through the barrel about 20 times, than took out my jag and patch cloth and started to run it though. after the barrel was do and cleaned out, i ran wipe out through it to let it sit,and once that worked its way through i patched the barrel again. but still noticed blue on the patch so took out a carbon remover and soaked a patch but it in the barrel and poured more into it. 1 hour later. brushed it again and patched dry, but still blue. so redid the same process 4 more time. the first pic is of when i tried using my gauge, the second picture is after i worked the barrel through. as you can tell its almost there. will be doing a couple of more times with the process tomorrow.
     

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