Ruger RPR problems with new fireing pin

[LV21]

SInce I changed the firing pin with shrout and AD Arms cocking piece, on my .308 and .338 RPR, I have nothing but problems with light primer strikes. The .308 had several and today my 338 would not shoot factory ammo. My handloads with CCI primers would go bang but RWS Target Elite factory ammo did not go bang. I used the original fireing pin spring, everything is well oiled but its not reliably setting off the rounds. Almost like the firing pin is a hair too short. Any input on how to fix it?

Thanks!

 

[ShtrRdy]

You changed a lot of parts. You're going to have to check a number of things.

1. Firing Pin drop distance. You can usually measure this from the back of the shroud. I don't know if you're shroud and cocking piece will allow this. Looking for 0.210" to 0.250"
2. Firing Pin protrusion. You'll have to let the Firing Pin down into its fired position and measure how far out the front of the bolt face. Looking for about 0.050".
3. Remove the Firing Pin assembly from the Bolt and then carefully insert the assembly into the bolt body feeling for any drag between the parts. It the FP spring is not in a straight line this can cause problems.

If these look fine then you're going to have to take it apart and check the fit of the pieces.
4. Does the firing pin by itself drop into the bolt without catching on anything?
5. Does the FP spring slide over the FP freely?
6. Place the Cocking Piece into the shroud while feeling for any drag. The CP should be able to move freely.

 

[LV21]

You changed a lot of parts. You're going to have to check a number of things.

1. Firing Pin drop distance. You can usually measure this from the back of the shroud. I don't know if you're shroud and cocking piece will allow this. Looking for 0.210" to 0.250"
2. Firing Pin protrusion. You'll have to let the Firing Pin down into its fired position and measure how far out the front of the bolt face. Looking for about 0.050".
3. Remove the Firing Pin assembly from the Bolt and then carefully insert the assembly into the bolt body feeling for any drag between the parts. It the FP spring is not in a straight line this can cause problems.

If these look fine then you're going to have to take it apart and check the fit of the pieces.
4. Does the firing pin by itself drop into the bolt without catching on anything?
5. Does the FP spring slide over the FP freely?
6. Place the Cocking Piece into the shroud while feeling for any drag. The CP should be able to move freely.

Thank you very much, these are very, very good pointers in tbe right direction. I think the fireing pin does not protrude enough and I will measure it now to see if that assumption is correct. The cocking piece is retained by a tiny roll pin and I believe the gap in the fireing pin which is lined up with a hole in the fireing pin is the problem. It allows various distances to be set. So I will get to work.....

 

[mick243]

did the original fit parts work?

 

[LV21]

did the original fit parts work?

Yes, it worked all fine but since my .308 had about 3000 rds and the .338 was reportet for accidental locking of the bolt, I went ahead and changed fireing pins, shouts and cocking piece on both rifles, on the .338 also the bolt handle due to the reportet locking issue.