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Run N Gun rifle - Plan B/Rearden vs Area 419 Hellfire

ClangClang

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Minuteman
Aug 10, 2017
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BLUF: Does anyone run Hellfires on lightweight gas guns? I see them all the time on heavy bolt guns. I'm trying to figure out if my use case is appropriate.

I've just picked up my first suppressor (B&T Print-XH) and so I need to switch my muzzle devices over to something compatible and have to pick a brake. I mostly compete in Run N Gun matches where length and weight are critical. I'm a high performer and frequently place on the podium, so I spend more time than some folks optimizing gear.

I expect to run about 80% unsuppressed so my primary criteria is brake performance, not as a suppressor host. Cans are heavy & hot and both of those are disadvantages in a RnG match when you have to run 5-10 miles with the risk of burning your leg carrying a slung rifle with a blazing hot can after a 45 round stage. However, I still want to be able to attach a suppressor on occasion for night matches, etc. I need to outfit 5 rifles. I was originally gonna go with Rearden SPB muzzle brakes and a Wolfpack Low Profile HUB Adapter (lightweight, minimum OAL) and call it a day, but the Hellfire system has caught my eye.

Performance: Hellfire wins, but only slightly
I believe that the Hellfire will stabilize the muzzle better under recoil with less dot movement and allow faster follow up shots. (Based on my experience having shot a 5.56 with SPB and a 6ARC with 3 Port hellfire on them and the 6arc was smoother). On the other hand, the extra weight hanging off the muzzle will absolutely slow down the swing on transitions. Those of you who don't compete may scoff at this, but stages are won and lost by tenths of a second, so these small factors do matter.

Resilience/Durability: I think it's a tie
Any plan B muzzle device has exposed threads that can be damaged and RnG matches are brutal on gear. Whereas there are no exposed threads on Hellfire. But with a Hellfire system and suppressor, there's no sacrificial baffle to protect the can to take some of the abuse to the can with a short barrel (which is where the majority of my usage will be). So I think these factors balance out.

Price: Hellfire wins
The difference here isn't enough to sway me 1 way or the other, so it's a moot point, but just to be thorough.... It would be $300 for Hellfire (I would buy a 2 Port Hellfire + 4x universal adapters). It would be $400 for Plan B (5x Rearden SPB). I only plan on buying 1 Hellfire brake, at least to start, since it's so easy to swap the brake from rifle to rifle - basically QD.

Length and Weight: Plan B wins
The Hellfire 2 port brake is 2.5x heavier (4.1 oz compared to 1.7 oz) and 0.6" longer than an SPB.

Thoughts?
 
A 1/2 x 28 adapter for the can will be cheaper, lighter, and shorter than either option. Being as you are already considering swapping the hellfire brake from rifle to rifle, removing a brake to install a can shouldn’t be a big ask. And, it seems that you won’t be adding a can mid match, so you don’t need a quick attach solution.

But, for me, I went rearden/plan B for everything…
 
A 1/2 x 28 adapter for the can will be cheaper, lighter, and shorter than either option. Being as you are already considering swapping the hellfire brake from rifle to rifle, removing a brake to install a can shouldn’t be a big ask. And, it seems that you won’t be adding a can mid match, so you don’t need a quick attach solution.

But, for me, I went rearden/plan B for everything…

I'm not sure I follow. With a 1/2x28 adapter in my can, I would need to remove the brake installed on the barrel whenever I wanted to mount the can. Then I would need to re-shim, re-torque, and re-rocksett the brake as soon as I take the can off. Unless I'm missing something?
 
In your initial post you said “I only plan on buying 1 Hellfire brake, at least to start, since it's so easy to swap the brake from rifle to rifle - basically QD.”

This, to me, says that you are ok with muzzle brake musical chairs…

Once you have determined the correct shim and torque, you don’t need to do anything more than use those. It’s no more difficult to remove a brake than it is to remove a suppressor. (Put an appropriate wrench in your range bag.) And, you don’t really need rock set either, especially if you are not hanging a can off of the brake. Just use the shim that gives an appropriate torque while timing the brake correctly, and you don’t even need a torque wrench- at least subsequent to the initial install of the brake.

I mean, you also said “I expect to run about 80% unsuppressed so my primary criteria is brake performance,”

Remove brake and shim. Install can. Shoot. Remove can. Install shim. Install brake. Torque to correct port timing. Shoot.


IMG_3059.jpeg
 
In your initial post you said “I only plan on buying 1 Hellfire brake, at least to start, since it's so easy to swap the brake from rifle to rifle - basically QD.”

This, to me, says that you are ok with muzzle brake musical chairs…

Once you have determined the correct shim and torque, you don’t need to do anything more than use those. It’s no more difficult to remove a brake than it is to remove a suppressor. (Put an appropriate wrench in your range bag.) And, you don’t really need rock set either, especially if you are not hanging a can off of the brake. Just use the shim that gives an appropriate torque while timing the brake correctly, and you don’t even need a torque wrench- at least subsequent to the initial install of the brake.

I mean, you also said “I expect to run about 80% unsuppressed so my primary criteria is brake performance,”

Remove brake and shim. Install can. Shoot. Remove can. Install shim. Install brake. Torque to correct port timing. Shoot.


View attachment 8737786
The hellfire brake does not mount like a typical muzzle brake. It comes with a barrel adapter that stays on the barrel and the brake threads on and off from that. Really easy to switch between a brake or can. I run The hellfire setup on all my rifles and love it. If you’re concerned with weight make sure you get the titanium mount for your suppressor. Save a lot of weight compared to the stainless.
 
Regardless of how the area419 brake works, the fact remains that a direct thread adapter is the cheapest, lightest, and shortest solution for a rifle that will be only sparingly shot suppressed. And, a brake doesn’t need rock set to stay on the barrel. Hell, I’m not even rock setting brakes used as suppressor hosts. Just torque the brake to 30 ft-lbs and twist on suppressor hand tight.

If the majority of the use case for the rifle is unsuppressed shooting, just use the brake you are using, and spin it off when you want to shoot suppressed. If it is rock-setted, you’ll need to remove all of that to put a new brake on the rifle anyway. Just take it off, clean all of the threads, and reinstall it with the shim and enough torque to time the brake ports (no thread locker).

But like I said above, I’m using the rearden/plan b mounts and adapters.
 
@hlee i think you're missing the fact that to "Just torque the brake to 30 ft-lbs and twist on suppressor hand tight" you still need a vice, a reaction rod, a torque wrench, a crows foot, shims, etc. With a Hellfire, you need.... your fingers. That's it.

I appreciate your contribution but a direct thread suppressor mount won't work for my needs.

After some reflection, I think I'm going to go with Plan B. The main reason is to have a sacrificial baffle protecting my can. The secondary reason (which i didnt consider in my OP) is commonality with my friends and shooting partners who are almost entirely using Plan B mounts themselves. This makes it easy for us to share/swap/test cans when we are all at the range.

It will be a day or two before I get around to placing an order, so if anyone has a dissenting opinion and wants to sway me back towards Hellfire, I am still more than open to counterpoints.
 
@hlee i think you're missing the fact that to "Just torque the brake to 30 ft-lbs and twist on suppressor hand tight" you still need a vice, a reaction rod, a torque wrench, a crows foot, shims, etc. With a Hellfire, you need.... your fingers. That's it.
I’ve done exactly this with an open end wrench while holding the rifle clamped between my legs. It is very easy to over complicate things when you don’t want them to work.

But, I think you will be very happy with plan B. Rearden makes a great product. I also recently saw that APA is making the Cherry Bastard. I’ll probably pick one of these up when I need to brake another gun.