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Rust in bore after a week or so?

Hook Creek

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 7, 2010
177
15
37
Catskill Mountains, NY
I was wondering if anyone else has this problem, cause it only happens to one of my rifles which is a Remington 700 SPS Tactical .308. If I put some rounds through it and let it sit, after about a week rust will develop down most of the inside of the barrel. If I clean with a brush using Hoppes #9 then Break Free CLP its fine and will stay looking like its brand new. The thing is is that I don't want to keep cleaning it everytime after I shoot it.
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

It's that corrosive Indian surplus ammunition you are using! Haha. Aside from that unlikely possibility I can't think of any reason for your Remington to rust more than another bore under the same conditions. The exterior finish of the SPS rifles does seem very prone to rusting so maybe it is just a SPS thing?
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ThrottleJ</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It's that corrosive Indian surplus ammunition you are using! Haha. Aside from that unlikely possibility I can't think of any reason for your Remington to rust more than another bore under the same conditions. The exterior finish of the SPS rifles does seem very prone to rusting so maybe it is just a SPS thing?</div></div>
After I started making my own ammo Ill never buy that shit again lol. But that could be a good point cause its the only rifle I handload for. Using IMR4064 powder with 168g SMK's.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: slothlacrosse</div><div class="ubbcode-body">where are you storing your rifle?</div></div>
If im going to be shooting within the few weeks with a particular rifle I hank it on the rack in my bedroom which is at a steady 66 degrees F. That is where the SPS has been hanging out at. Otherwise there in my closet.
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lw8</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Bore snake is your friend.</div></div> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lw8</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Bore snake is your friend.</div></div>
That it is. I love the bore snake but it has no effect on the problem that I'm having
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?


Fire burns the earl that was protecting the bare metal of the bore from oxidizing, if there ever was any. Steel has some small amounts of iron. It oxidizes (Fe02) i.e.; rust.

Applying a slight film of earl onto the bore surface does NOT amount to cleaning, and consequently, you will not be committing that dreadfully bloody sin of cleaning the bore for God's sake. However, you will be preventing oxidation, rusting, pitting, deterioration, accuracy degradation, loss of enjoyment of shooting.

Assume an automobile's brakes lock. Further assume the road's surface is extremely porous like the touted asphalt that is supposed to absorb rain water. Now distinguish that surface from a smoother, perhaps concrete surface without the lateral groovy ridges that is supposed to help clowns stop that weren't looking were they were going on the wet surface. Upon the brakes' locking, which surface would produce the most wear, or flat spot on the tire? LIke course grit v. fine grit.

Your rusted, then pitted barrel will be a course grit. Mine will be a fine grit because I clean it and leave a fine film of earl in it. Yours will foul, requiring yet more cleaning but now copper removal. Your barrel is, or will be soon, actually ruined.
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Casey Simpson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Fire burns the earl that was protecting the bare metal of the bore from oxidizing, if there ever was any. Steel has some small amounts of iron. It oxidizes (Fe02) i.e.; rust.

Applying a slight film of earl onto the bore surface does NOT amount to cleaning, and consequently, you will not be committing that dreadfully bloody sin of cleaning the bore for God's sake. However, you will be preventing oxidation, rusting, pitting, deterioration, accuracy degradation, loss of enjoyment of shooting.

Assume an automobile's brakes lock. Further assume the road's surface is extremely porous like the touted asphalt that is supposed to absorb rain water. Now distinguish that surface from a smoother, perhaps concrete surface without the lateral groovy ridges that is supposed to help clowns stop that weren't looking were they were going on the wet surface. Upon the brakes' locking, which surface would produce the most wear, or flat spot on the tire? LIke course grit v. fine grit.

Your rusted, then pitted barrel will be a course grit. Mine will be a fine grit because I clean it and leave a fine film of earl in it. Yours will foul, requiring yet more cleaning but now copper removal. Your barrel is, or will be soon, actually ruined.
</div></div>
Ive never heard of earl, but I'm guessing its some type of oil. If I'm going to put the rifle away for a little while I will lube the bore up with something, I recently started preserving with Break Free CLP. You say that the barrel is or will soon be ruined, but the damn thing is new! This would make me flip shit sticks. So are you suggesting that I run some oiled patches after every outing?
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

If conditions are humid enough that you're getting rust after storing for a short period, then yes, run some oily patches down the bore before storing it away. Dry patch before shooting again to remove excess earl, opps I meant oil..
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

You guys are sooo funny. LMAO. Of course its oil. I knew being from New York that would get you wrapped around an axle.

You might find this hard to believe. Way the heck in the country that is how they pronounce oil. I would never have believed it either but this kid in grade school proved it.

CLP is ok but leave for lubing the sewing maching. Lube the barrel with a better earl
wink.gif
Use KROIL, or motor oil.

Then do what badshot suggested about removing the erl.....oil.
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

Ever seen how quickly brake discs will oxidise on your car?

Even if you're not going to "clean" the rifle after every outing, you should at least oil the bore lightly.....just a simple patch and pull through, no rods/jags needed. Then repeat the pull through with a dry patch before shooting.

If you subscribe to the belief that copper fouling attracts or at least traps moisture then all the more reason to follow this routine........

I also keep a couple of these in my gun safes:

http://www.tvcases.co.uk/peli_desiccant_silica_gel-p-9042.html

Remember "Rust never sleeps!"
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Casey Simpson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You guys are sooo funny. LMAO. Of course its oil. I knew being from New York that would get you wrapped around an axle.

You might find this hard to believe. Way the heck in the country that is how they pronounce oil. I would never have believed it either but this kid in grade school proved it.

CLP is ok but leave for lubing the sewing maching. Lube the barrel with a better earl
wink.gif
Use KROIL, or motor oil.

Then do what badshot suggested about removing the erl.....oil. </div></div>
Not sure what you mean by wrapped around an axle, but I assume its means confused in some sort of way(Just kidding lol). I was going to say something about the motor oil actually. I was going to use motor oil for the long term storage if I didnt plan on shooting for a while, and CLP for the short in betweens. I Just did the dirty and cleaned the damn thing for the last time! Going to do as suggested and see how it goes.
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

A police customer brought in his collection of tactical rifles and he leaves was using alcohol to dry the oil out of them as he never knew when he was going to be called out to use them in the line of duty. All his Remington parkerized rifles were solid orange rust in the bores the day after he cleaned them. His HS Precision and other rifles were all still rust free.

I believe there is something to the Remington SPS, MLR and tactical rifles. I have noticed a severe tendency to rust if left with anything other than oil in the bore. I'm thinking they are not getting the parkerizing chemicals thoroughly removed or something along those lines. I left my MLR overnight with Wipeout in it and it was solid orange by morning. Using the Accelerator on a customers SPS and Wipeout did the same thing in just a few minutes. I quit using Wipeout and make sure to always leave a gun oil in the bore of these rifles. Regular blued VLS rifles don't have the problem.
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

Try Hoppe's #9...it has a bit of rust preventive oil (water soluable oil) which if thinly applied...such as with a damp patch followed up by a dry patch, doesn't seem to change my cold bore, and does protect from rust. Not good for long term storage, and certainly not a complete cleaning job, but will get you from month to month. JMHO
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

To alleviate any concern about oil in the bore during shooting....

Go ahead and dry patch with one patch after the oil patch. Sufficient oil will remain in the bore to prevent rust. Particularly if KROIL is used. It's a penetrant.

Last thing. Since we're so splitting frog hairs, store the rifle muzzle down just in case there is a trace of oil anywhere you want it to bleed out not into the stock or chamber or bolt or firing pin or striker spring area, but instead on the piece of newsprint at the muzzle end. Much better than the alternative.

Incidentally, them barrels be rustn' cause thay ain't stainless. Brake rotors be rustn' qwicklike cause they be cast iron. Iron become Iron Oxide. FeO2 Iron being Fe. Oxygen being O2.
But even stainless can oxidize to an extent.
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Casey Simpson</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Last thing. store the rifle muzzle down just in case there is a trace of oil anywhere you want it to bleed out not into the stock or chamber or bolt or firing pin or striker spring area, but instead on the piece of newsprint at the muzzle end. Much better than the alternative.
</div></div>

Or you can also place a piece of rolled kitchen paper or tissue in the chamber to soak up any fluids that may be running back down into the chamber/stock/trigger/bolt...leaving the bolt open of course!!

(If in doubt, ask your wife/girlfriend/partner to explain the principle
wink.gif
)

But...if you've got enough in the bore to do this, I'd say you had put too much on the patch in the first place.

if you wipe the oiled patcha cross your thumb nail as a tester it should leave only a thin film (enough to make the nail look shiny, NOT wet).
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?


Right on, Basra. I was thinking about oil that had rubbed off in the neck area of the chamber....now since mentioning that....be damned sure your chamber is free of lube before firing. When I have my act together I give my chamber a twist of isopropyl alcohol on a chamber rod/brush/patch before offing to the range.
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

Being in NY I wouldn;t think humidity in an air conditioned house would be an issue, but in the South (where yes I defintely knew what earl was), being in an airconditioned house is by NO MEANS a guarantee of sufficiently low humidity to prevent rust.

The Naval Standards Institute list 50% humidity as the lowest humidity that can form rust, so down here in earl country, I keep a real dehumidifier in my storage area which is indoors and air conditioned. Without the dehumidifier, the humidity can reach 70%!!! I keep it at 45% and use the Kroil mentioned above after I initially had a rust scare. None since then.

Might want to check the humiditiy in your storage area if you have a Kestrel or something to do it with.

Also, I have an "indicator" sitting on a shelf in the storage area. I quickly found out that my LE Wilson case guages will rust in a freaking heartbeat if not kept oiled after using them, so I stuck one of the less used calibers out on the shelf after cleaning it in acetone to remove all the oil. Now every time I go into the area, I can see if any rust has formed on the indicator. Yes, I am paranoid now.

madd0c
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?


Condensation resulting from suddently changing ambient temperatures from outdoors to indoors, vice-versa may induce rust in a bore or elsewhere metal is unprotected.

Solution: Apply liberally grease to the projectile of the last round of the range session. Drop the greased round onto the ground in an area rain has gently washed silt onto. Roll the round around with the sole of the shoe. Right or left will suffice. Abundantly coat the bullet with fine dust and or dirt. Pick it up. Dust off the case, but not the bullet. Chamber the round. Fire it. The fine grit scrubbed out any primer, powder, carbon, and copper residue remaining from the range session. The grease lubricated the bore preventing rusting in the interim before the next enjoyable range session. For a finer lubrication and abrasive, fire a non-dirty bullet, but not more than one, as your final round. This round will impregnate the metal pores with mineral spirits from the grease for a longer lasting rust preventative.
U.S. Patent Pending.
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: madd0c</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Being in NY I wouldn;t think humidity in an air conditioned house would be an issue, but in the South (where yes I defintely knew what earl was), being in an airconditioned house is by NO MEANS a guarantee of sufficiently low humidity to prevent rust.

The Naval Standards Institute list 50% humidity as the lowest humidity that can form rust, so down here in earl country, I keep a real dehumidifier in my storage area which is indoors and air conditioned. Without the dehumidifier, the humidity can reach 70%!!! I keep it at 45% and use the Kroil mentioned above after I initially had a rust scare. None since then.

Might want to check the humiditiy in your storage area if you have a Kestrel or something to do it with.

Also, I have an "indicator" sitting on a shelf in the storage area. I quickly found out that my LE Wilson case guages will rust in a freaking heartbeat if not kept oiled after using them, so I stuck one of the less used calibers out on the shelf after cleaning it in acetone to remove all the oil. Now every time I go into the area, I can see if any rust has formed on the indicator. Yes, I am paranoid now.

madd0c</div></div>
Humidity is something I was going to mention too. The humidity is normally 40-45%. But I just figured I would mention the low temperature, because if I'm not mistaken the lower the temp the less moisture the air can hold. Good to now that 50% is the lowest that can cause rust though. In the winter the humidity gets even lower because I heat the house with a wood stove.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Casey Simpson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Condensation resulting from suddently changing ambient temperatures from outdoors to indoors, vice-versa may induce rust in a bore or elsewhere metal is unprotected.

Solution: Apply liberally grease to the projectile of the last round of the range session. Drop the greased round onto the ground in an area rain has gently washed silt onto. Roll the round around with the sole of the shoe. Right or left will suffice. Abundantly coat the bullet with fine dust and or dirt. Pick it up. Dust off the case, but not the bullet. Chamber the round. Fire it. The fine grit scrubbed out any primer, powder, carbon, and copper residue remaining from the range session. The grease lubricated the bore preventing rusting in the interim before the next enjoyable range session. For a finer lubrication and abrasive, fire a non-dirty bullet, but not more than one, as your final round. This round will impregnate the metal pores with mineral spirits from the grease for a longer lasting rust preventative.
U.S. Patent Pending.
</div></div>
Condensation is another thing I was going to mention lol. That Is the reason why I try to not move the guns as much as possible from there air conditioned room(yes the A/C is on 24/7 just for my guns) to another. Thanks for the great ideas too.
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

A/C doesn't dehumidify as far as I know. It maintains a constant temperature.

Maybe (if condensation is an issue) look at a dehumidifier in the room instead? Or, as I posted above, use a pro grade silica gel based product in the safe. The Peli one I linked too can be dried out when saturated and re-used
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BasraBoy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A/C doesn't dehumidify as far as I know. It maintains a constant temperature.

Maybe (if condensation is an issue) look at a dehumidifier in the room instead? Or, as I posted above, use a pro grade silica gel based product in the safe. The Peli one I linked too can be dried out when saturated and re-used </div></div>

Well its not that it dehumidifies, but that low constant temp that it keeps doesn't allow the air to hold as much moisture. I don't know the science of it but you get me. I don't know how effective a dehumidifier will be because humidity is low in the room now. At the same time I don't want it too dry in the room either, it is where I sleep lol.
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

Understood.

Seriously....look at the Peli blocks to stick in your safe (if the guns are kept in a safe?)

We don't get the heat/humidity that you're going to get in NY over here....but we do a great line in damp and cold!

Always oil my bores and keep the Peli tuned!
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

Get a golden rod or whatever they are called these days. There are also dehumidifiers that dont have to be plugged in if thats a problem.
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

The eva dry units work well. I've got 2 of them in my 24 gun safe and have had to 're-charge' them once every few weeks this summer. Should be good to go a lot longer once the summer humidity is out of the picture.
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

One interesting thread to read....in many ways puzzling.

Lets be clear here, a CLEAN barrel, (clean as in knowing how to properly and safely clean a barrel) and a proper application of the right preservative compounds and you are done.

Your issue is that you never properly cleaned out the contaminants from your crap ammo...not by a long shot.

Now if you think KROIL, or motor oil is the way to go, well....start reading....

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html (kroil, I love the stuff, but it positively sucks as a rust preservative.)

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

http://www.accuratereloading.com/rustest.html

Learn how to clean your barrel properly.
Get the right products in that barrel.
I don't care what humidity your in.....

"Golden rod" is a losing game. The basic science of it is flawed. Moving wet warm air in either a closed system (think rain forest) or, worse, an open system (hot wet air out the top, replaced by cold wet air in the bottom) does nothing. Golden Rod is for mildew....not rust.

It all starts with one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000GFCN1I/kaboodle2-20

As already stated you have to get your safe down below 50%. If you can't directly dehumidify, then you have to scavenge with products like these:

http://www.mechanical-writings.com/hydrosorbent-silica-desiccant/

But, know you have to RECHARGE (dry out) these regularly. Keep the beads under control! A bead will eat through steel like nothing you have seen.

 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">One interesting thread to read....in many ways puzzling.

Lets be clear here, a CLEAN barrel, (clean as in knowing how to properly and safely clean a barrel) and a proper application of the right preservative compounds and you are done.

Your issue is that you never properly cleaned out the contaminants from your crap ammo...not by a long shot.

Now if you think KROIL, or motor oil is the way to go, well....start reading....

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html (kroil = sucks)

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

http://www.accuratereloading.com/rustest.html

Learn how to clean your barrel properly.
Get the right products in that barrel.
I don't care what humidity your in.....

"Golden rod" is a losing game. The basic science of it is flawed. Moving wet warm air in either a closed system (think rain forest) or, worse, an open system (hot wet air replaced by cold wet air) does nothing.

It all starts with one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000GFCN1I/kaboodle2-20

As already stated you have to get your safe down below 50%. If you can't directly dehumidify, then you have to scavenge with products like these:

http://www.mechanical-writings.com/hydrosorbent-silica-desiccant/

But, know you have to RECHARGE (dry out) these regularly.

</div></div>
Never thought about using Kroil anyway. But I have read a lot about using motor oil, and haven't read any bad things yet although I still haven't used it. For the cleaning I use a one piece rubber coated steel rod with a bronze brush. First I patch with Hoppes #9 then brush, then wipe clean, then patch with Break Free CLP let it sit for a bit, then brush once more, then wipe clean and patch one more time with the CLP then wipe clean. I know other people prefer other products, but its what I have available here and its been working great with the exeption of the remington lol. I have never shot anything but the handloads that I talked about above through the SPS Tactical. No shitty ammunition. Also the guns are not in a safe. They are either hanging on the rack in my bedroom, or in the closet in my bedroom, which is never above 50% humidity. Almost always around 45%.
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

Something funny is going on if you are getting rust at 50% humidity. In my gun room i use a medium sized dehumidifier 24/7 to maintain 55-60% and have never had rust on any guns stored in these conditions.
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

One other thought how are you determining humidity levels? I have tested a bunch of hygrometers and found the cheap ones to almost always be off. I recently tried the electronic one from brownells and it reads 40% when conditions are actually 60%.
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ThrottleJ</div><div class="ubbcode-body">One other thought how are you determining humidity levels? I have tested a bunch of hygrometers and found the cheap ones to almost always be off. I recently tried the electronic one from brownells and it reads 40% when conditions are actually 60%. </div></div>
When you say cheap ones, how cheap? I haven't seen any normal ones get expensive. I do see the price point go up a lot though if they are digital, which I wouldn't trust as much anyway. Maybe that could be your problem? But if you really want to get serious check this bad boy out lol http://www.instrumart.com/products/19793/ge-general-eastern-humilab
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

I have four probably all <$25 and one is pretty accurate. It was intended for a humidor. The other three are off to various degrees. The errors are mostly consistant so if you know the error you can just add or subtract to get the real humidity. If you could calibrate them it would be no big deal but none of mine can be calibrated. The Brownells one is the biggest POS. Not only is the humidity drasticly off but the thermometer portion reads 10f high too.
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

Sorry to further hijack your post. I am somewhat humidity obsessed and always trying to monitor it in my gun room. From what I hear a wet/dry thermometer is the way to go for accurate humidity readings. You enter the different temperature values for the wet and dry bulbs into an equation to determine humidity.
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Casey Simpson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Hmph. I might have to get some EEZOKS earl. And I changed my mind about CLP too. </div></div>

Why the change?
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Casey Simpson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I read the test. I'm open minded. I was wrong. </div></div>
Yea the EEZOX was definitely the best, but they do say that they like the Break Free because of the better penetration. I think they mean that you can't just glob it on there.
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BasraBoy</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="color: #CC0000">A/C doesn't dehumidify as far as I know. It maintains a constant temperature.</span>
Maybe (if condensation is an issue) look at a dehumidifier in the room instead? Or, as I posted above, use a pro grade silica gel based product in the safe. The Peli one I linked too can be dried out when saturated and re-used </div></div>

An air conditioner DOES dehumidify that is why there is a drain leading away from the refridgeration coils. It "conditions" the air.

"Refrigeration air conditioning equipment usually reduces the absolute humidity of the air processed by the system. The relatively cold (below the dewpoint) evaporator coil condenses water vapor from the processed air (much like an ice-cold drink will condense water on the outside of a glass), sending the water to a drain and removing water vapor from the cooled space and lowering the relative humidity in the room."
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

I wanted to correct that error but I knew someone else would I was doing enough already. Where would one think the condensation drip or run in Louisiana originates?
A part of the a/c is a condenser.
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

Thanks for the correction - living in a climate where we don't need A/C I always believed it was just a chiller (as opposed to a heater...which we do have!) and that the water was just a by-product of the chilling process as opposed to a deliberate dehumidifying process.

We do have dedicated dehumidifiers here (I have one in my garage) but it neither heats nor chills the air.....it just sucks out the moisture.

 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

I live in the Ohio Valley where in summer it is like the Amazon. Typical day is usually 90's with 80% or better humidity (yeah I can't wait to move to Colorado).

Now I don't "clean" my rifles after each use but I do the following after each shooting.
1. Run a few patches of Hoppe's #9 followed by a few dry patches
2. Run a few patches of CLP followed by a few dry patches
3. Wipe down entire rifle where exposed metal or my perspiration has got on the rifle.
4. Put in safe
5. Keep my dedicated dehumidifier running on about 7 which pulls about a gallon of water out of the air every two days. Keeps the space cool and dry.
 
Hi guys! have you tried this https://www.abestmeter.com/electronic-water-level-switch/?


Typical Application

  • Sanitary appliance,Pump,Bathing
  • Water Heater, Humidifier,Water dispenser
  • Medical equipment and instrumentation
  • Analytical instruments, Lab instruments
  • Oil level monitor of Compressor and others in refrigeration system
  • Key level monitor of industry application
  • Other electronic level monitor without moving parts
Any reviews?
 
Re: Rust in bore after a week or so?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BasraBoy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A/C doesn't dehumidify as far as I know. It maintains a constant temperature.

Maybe (if condensation is an issue) look at a dehumidifier in the room instead? Or, as I posted above, use a pro grade silica gel based product in the safe. The Peli one I linked too can be dried out when saturated and re-used </div></div>

Well its not that it dehumidifies, but that low constant temp that it keeps doesn't allow the air to hold as much moisture. I don't know the science of it but you get me. I don't know how effective a dehumidifier will be because humidity is low in the room now. At the same time I don't want it too dry in the room either, it is where I sleep lol.

Yes an A/C dehumidifies. That is why they drip water.
 
I've been using KG4 as my bore coating of choice, but may move to Eezox after seeing those test results. Don't get me wrong, the KG4 has been doing right by me, as I haven't had any problems, but if there's a product out there that has been tested to provide superior protection, then why not use it? I have to use one product or another anyhow, might as well choose the one that works the best.

That said, all of my guns other than my carry/nightstand pieces live in a safe with an active dehumidifier (https://www.eva-dry.com/dehumidifiers/eva-dry-1100-petite-dehumidifier) running 100% of the time, and nearly all of them get cleaned/lubed every time they're used (the .22 LRs are the exception... but even they get a Bore Snake pass).