Sidearms & Scatterguns S&W M&P 2.0 for side matches?

[SporterII]

No mention around here of these.
I looked at one and they are in expensive. Ergos, trigger, capacity , leather avability , check.
Sights cheap.
What am I missing?

 

[canezach]

Nothing, really. I've carried a S&W as my duty weapon for twenty years. We transitioned to the M&P around 2014 or so. They shoot very well, in my experience, and I've put several thousand rounds through mine without so much as a hiccup. The only issue I can think of is you don't have the same level of aftermarket support that you do with Glock.

 

[SporterII]

Good to hear. Holster is the only aftermarket support I will be needing. No race gun, not for defense, just reliably hit basic steel stressor targets, dump and move.

 

[DrainTheSwamp]

I use a m&p pro 2.0 5 inch 40 for uspsa. It’s nothing fancy but it runs good enough for me.
I only added a flared magwell and mag extensions.
I just couldn’t get comfortable with a glock I wanted to like them but I just couldn’t, so I went this route. I’m not looking back. I will likely buy a couple more to stash away in the house, pickups or a backup gun.

 

[strikeeagle1]

I have about 5 of the Gen 1.0 M&P full size 9mm and two of the Gen 2.0. Collectively about 25,000 rounds thru the 2.0 models.

There are about 40 structural differences between the gen 1.0 and 2.0 M&P models. Many of the changes were to be competitive in the recent U.S. Army Modular Handgun Standards (MHS) bidded to mfg.'s.
I have memorialized them here:

https://mp-pistol.com/mp-full-size-p...ces-i-see.html

I dislike the curved trigger on the stock M&P's so I install the Apex trigger (one has the polymer trigger the other the aluminum trigger) which is much nicer without changing the trigger weight ~4.5lbs. I use Dawson fiberoptic front sights on the majority of my handguns, their matching rear sights on most but I prefer to modify the Dawson rear sight to a silhouette of the Reactive Target Sights (only available for Glock). Safariland makes lots of options for the M&P, I have almost all of them, but their newest 7TS ALS is my favorite unless I have a mounted light then I use one of their (#6304) Level 3 holsters with a SureFire DevGroup grip switch as it is the only one that can activate the light one handed. Taran Tactical makes very nice billete aluminum magazine extenders in several variants. I also modify the right slide stop with increase purchase to release the slide with my non-dominant left hand as the 2.0 has a patent pending mechanism to prevent magazine slam slide forwarding (which I personally dislike).

 

[Supersubes]

I carry a 1.0 for duty and have a personal 1.0 VTAC. I like them overall. Grip angle is superior to the Glock imo. Triggers on the 1.0 blow donkey(no experience with the 2.0), so I’d recommend an Apex trigger. Both of mine are 40’s, and I’ve got ~5k rounds between them.

 

[SporterII]

Glad I asked.
Many thanks.

 

[DrainTheSwamp]

@strikeeagle1
How hard is it to change the front sight? Do you need a sight pusher?

 

[Ghogs Nightmare]

To follow up Subes....the 2.0 trigger is MUCH better than the donkey **** version 1. In addition the grip texture is about 300% better than version 1 which was way to slick.

Other notes the frame is fully supported to the front, the cuts in the front show the steel interior/chassis. With the new slide release design it also doesn't drive forward when doing the "mag slam" reload. (or whatever you call it)

Drain........... its not THAT difficult but a pusher makes life easier...the rear sight has the firing pin safety under it which is a bear to deal with if you don't have a sight pusher. Well at least let me say it makes life easier.

 

[strikeeagle1]

Generally a professional grade sight pusher is the most efficient method. However, some mfg. e.g. Novak, recommend their tritium vial sights should be removed only by the punch method which is counter-intuitive only to those that don't understand the principles of proper sight installation setup.

Whether using a dedicated sight pusher or punch technique, most sights are easy to swap out IF one adheres to a few principles of understanding.

If using punches:
1. Properly secured in a padded vise in order for the force of the punch tip to fully deliver its impact to the sight base.

2. Tape protect all contact surfaces, smooth vise inserts, the slide and brass punch tips.

3. Shape the end of the brass punch with a file to maximize its surface contact with the base of the sight AND still fit thru the narrowest part of the dovetail. Dawson includes a proper shaped aluminum punch with each sight. The rationale for using a softer material punch is that its working end is easily shaped with a file to exactly / closely fit the contact surface on the side of sight base.

4. Rear sight, loosen the red Nylok (not Loctitie) 1/16" set screw with a high quality tool so you don't strip the hex engagements.

5. Prior to attempting to move the sights, consider using a penetrating oil and be patient for a few minutes. Even if you do everything correctly, a brass punch may deform and not displace the sights. You may need to use a proper sized steel starter punch.

On installation, make sure you can ("interference fit") insert the sight ~20-25% into the dovetail by hand. This assures the sight / dovetail edges are in alignment so you don't snowplow drive the sight crooked into the dovetail of the slide, ruining both surfaces. Fit the sight by stoning the bottom edge of the sight a few strokes at a time until its correct, the referenced diagram illustrates the principle. Dawson recommends using a file to just break the leading edge of the sight to allow its initial interference fit insertion. The selection of sight punch material (steel, brass, aluminum, nylon etc) is also generally immaterial when removing / installing sights, because you obeyed the first principle of properly preparing the sight for installation. As a gunsmithing principle, use a punch constructed of a material hardness equal or less than the hardness of the sight construction; most sights are steel or alloy, although some like Glock's are polymer construction. I also prefer use a dab of Loctite 620 (small gap adhesive) as it seems to secure better than blue / red loctite.

Even MGW cautions that the tool is not designed to remove factory “tight” sights.
IF you choose to use a sight pusher make sure it’s a high-quality one that allows correct force application to the sight base.

 

[pineoak]

I actually prefer the 1.0 overall personally, though the trigger on the 2.0 is far superior. That said, having tried the Apex kit and a trigger job by a well known smith, I'm okay with the 1.0 trigger. No reset whatsoever though.

The stippling on the 2.0 is too aggressive for anything but duty carry. Great grip for usage, but catches on clothing and is too rough for a day long shooting class to be comfortable. Doable as I've done it multiple times, but not as comfortable for a long day of shooting.

I don't know anyone that has a 2.0 that has any reliability issues.

The size of the 2.0 compact 3.6" is literally the same as a G19.

Between the 2, I prefer the G19 by far as a gun.

I prefer a manual safety overall, but it's not enough to overcome that the G19 just works better for me.

G19x > G19 in splits and accuracy for me, but not concealable.