Sacraficial Brass for Annealing Set-up

[OzzyO20]

After stressing way more than I should about seeking annealing service, I Just bit the bullet and ordered a Bench Source Vertex.

I've watched a ton of helpful videos and read a lot of articles on the machine and annealing in general. I understand that not even brass from the same lot is 100% identical metallurgically speaking, and I don't want to start a Tempilaq vs color vs whatever debate (although I did order some 650* at Bench Source's recommendation).

My plan is to set the plate up and run some Hornady brass I have laying around through the flames to get honed in on the verge of the orange flame per the Primal Rights Video (makes the most sense to me) before I actually throw my Lapua brass on the wheel.

I know I'll have to tweak the time when I switch, but the goal is to lose no more than 1 and hopefully zero pieces of Lapua brass when I switch. I'm going to put a tad bit of Tempilaq inside a few clean case necks on the Lapua to make sure it's getting over 650*. The Hornady brass will also be helpful in getting the 'aim' right to where the flames are hitting the case/neck junction properly. I'm going to shim it with washers and use a level as well to get a repeatable set up.

Is case composition close enough between manufacturers to make this work or am I wasting time? Does anyone have an firsthand experience annealing Hornady vs Lapua 6.5 CM brass with observations like time/temp differences? Seems like anyone with an AMP could figure out a rough idea of Hornady Vs Lapua based on the recommended setting (I'm assuming the temp is always the same and only the time changes i.e. heating the case more or less with exposure in an AMP).

Thanks guys.

 

[Pvt.Donut]

I'd just suggest to start with the timer set faster. Then you can increase the time until you find the right temp. This way the test brass is only under annealed and can be used again.

The AMP is a different beast. The program numbers don't really represent anything quantifiable (time, temp etc.). Each program number represents a certain time and power setting so program 68 might be completely different from program 67.

 

[OzzyO20]

I'd just suggest to start with the timer set faster. Then you can increase the time until you find the right temp. This way the test brass is only under annealed and can be used again.

The AMP is a different beast. The program numbers don't really represent anything quantifiable (time, temp etc.). Each program number represents a certain time and power setting so program 68 might be completely different from program 67.

Thanks man. I'll be sure the start the test brass slower and work up so I don't cook too many pieces working backwards.

 

[918v]

I'd just suggest to start with the timer set faster. Then you can increase the time until you find the right temp. This way the test brass is only under annealed and can be used again.

The AMP is a different beast. The program numbers don't really represent anything quantifiable (time, temp etc.). Each program number represents a certain time and power setting so program 68 might be completely different from program 67.

That’s not true of the AMP. The settings denote a linear increase in the amount of heat to the case. Setting 68 is almost identical to 67.

 

[Bradu]

I have went with Orkan's advice from his video and go by the color change as well. Didn't like the templaq all that well so I gave his method a go. I now do it in the evening in a dark room so it's easy to see the color change. Once I get it set then I turn the light off every once in a while to check to make sure it is still good since I anneal about 400 pieces at a time. Been very happy with the results doing it that way. An AMP would be nice but it's a lot of money.