Yeah, it's the HK's that depleted me over the last two years. Last year it was an MP5 demill build and 2012 was the USC to UMP conversion.
- Thread starter EuroOptic Ltd.
- Start date
Yeah, it's the HK's that depleted me over the last two years. Last year it was an MP5 demill build and 2012 was the USC to UMP conversion.
Talked with Eurooptic today...looking like mid April delivery.
Blue loctite should work fine. That's what I did to my rail on my P94s.
I had a quad in 17hmr in a manners stock, it was a tack driver, wish i never sold it.
Are these still available? I gotta call Alex.......
What ever happened with these, anybody see one yet?
let us know what you hear.
This thread is going on nearly a year in length. At this rate, those Quads had better mow the lawn, buy the groceries, and cook dinner in addition to shooting well. I feel for those of you on the wait but this is absurd. The wait for the stock was uncomfortable when I did my Quad but it was several months, not a year!
Guys,
I just spoke with George and he has ALL OF THE PARTS to make 90% of the rifles, so these should be completed within the next month.
Delays, while they suck for EVERYONE involved, are inherent in custom builds, especially mass-custom builds. Anyone that actually has a rifle on order and is interested in the details that have lead to the delay of these rifles, please call and ask for me and I will detail the delays, however it may not be appropriate to post the details publicly. This will also explain why the other 10% of the guns will be further delayed by a couple weeks.
Again, if you have an order, feel free to call me and I will detail the delay for you.
Jason
I just spoke with George and he has ALL OF THE PARTS to make 90% of the rifles, so these should be completed within the next month.
Delays, while they suck for EVERYONE involved, are inherent in custom builds, especially mass-custom builds. Anyone that actually has a rifle on order and is interested in the details that have lead to the delay of these rifles, please call and ask for me and I will detail the delays, however it may not be appropriate to post the details publicly. This will also explain why the other 10% of the guns will be further delayed by a couple weeks.
Again, if you have an order, feel free to call me and I will detail the delay for you.
Jason
Hope this gets back on track, I need a cheap and accurate trainer
Hi Guys,
Everything seems to be wrapping up. George has said all of the rifles will be in transit to us next week! With that in mind and to speed up shipping when they arrive, (those with deposits on a rifle), please contact us with details for final payment (which we will not charge until the rifle ships). Also, please have your dealer send their FFL now (by fax or email) so there is no delay shipping them because we are waiting on the FFL. Make sure they reference your name in the fax or email.
For guys that purchased multiple barrels - it is advised from multiple sources "in the know" that you will be best served to purchase a rimfire headspace gauge if you plan on switching the barrels regularly. This will prevent improper headspace. Dave Kiff at Pacific Tool and Gauge has offered a discount to those that bought one of these rifles, just mention that you bought one of the rimfire trainers from EuroOptic if you call them.
Jason
Everything seems to be wrapping up. George has said all of the rifles will be in transit to us next week! With that in mind and to speed up shipping when they arrive, (those with deposits on a rifle), please contact us with details for final payment (which we will not charge until the rifle ships). Also, please have your dealer send their FFL now (by fax or email) so there is no delay shipping them because we are waiting on the FFL. Make sure they reference your name in the fax or email.
For guys that purchased multiple barrels - it is advised from multiple sources "in the know" that you will be best served to purchase a rimfire headspace gauge if you plan on switching the barrels regularly. This will prevent improper headspace. Dave Kiff at Pacific Tool and Gauge has offered a discount to those that bought one of these rifles, just mention that you bought one of the rimfire trainers from EuroOptic if you call them.
Jason
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I was at Gap last week and they were hard at work bedding and assembling these. The amount a care they are putting into these is impressive but it's what we expect from Gap. Anyone who purchased one of these and has had to wait for parts, I can tell you that the wait was worth it!
Shipped 33 rifles to Euro today!!. The Rest will Ship by Monday. Just wrapping up a few thread protectors on the last 15. These rifles came out sweet. We appreciate Euro having us do them and hope you all enjoy them!!
Great news George! I am eagerly awaiting mine. Thanks for the update.
Picked up mine today from the FFL. Rifle with .22 barrel , plus extra .17 HMR and 17HM2 barrels.
Will start tuning things up this weekend.
Well, most of the non-threaded rifles are now on their way to you guys, and the threaded ones are coming this week yet, so by early next week they should all be shipped! Just waiting on final payment and FFL info for a few. I have looked at every one of these and I am quite happy with them. I am sure you guys will be also. Rifle #1 that we have been shooting here is an absolute hammer, turning in a 10-shot group at 50yds that was right at 1/4" ! That was with Wolf Match.
Jason
Jason
Can we see some PICS?
How about pics of the rifle?
I only have 1 from my phone and it is not good, but here you go. This is actually McMillan Camo, which I have grown to like.
Rifle #1 of 49
Jason
Rifle #1 of 49
Jason
Why did open this page? Are all 49 accounted for?
I will definitely have a few...4 or 5 left avail now I think. Some that were not pre-sold on the pre-buy were cancelled. I think we have a des camo sako varmint and OD green metal avail as well as a couple A5 gap camo with black metal available. Give me a yell. After the dust settles on the whole deal next week, I will post what is available.
Jason
Jason
So tempting.
Picked up number 17 on my way home. Switched in the 17HMR barrel, ran a couple of patches through the bore, slapped on a scope and bipod and took it out back to sight her in. Didn't really have enough time to shoot any groups but looks to be easily under an MOA at 100yds.
Thanks to Jason and all the guys at EuroOptic for organizing this. These are great rifles and will also be treasured family heirlooms for generations.
Looks nice guys. We need range reports soon...
Guys do not contact GAP (us) with any issues and or problems with these unless they are finish related, or threads . GAP Bedded stocks and applied finish and threaded muzzles. We did not chamber/modify/test fire/check fedding and or anything else with these.
Contact Euro Optics with issues not GAP, please. Not passing the Buck here Euro Optics is the Manufacturer not us. If there is an Issue with work we did Euro will contact us.
I will point out a couple common Sako Quad issues.
1. You have to have a head space gauge when changing barrels, if you dont have one get one. barrel clamp nut should be tight 55-65 inch pounds
2. Lots of match ammo will not extract unless fired, its becouse its a squeeze fit into the throat/rifleing wth the lubed Match bullets and the extractor does not have the strength to hold onto it to rip it out untill fired.
3. its a rimfire. do not torque action screws more than 18-25 inch pounds.
4. they use one magazine with all 4 chamberings and because of that some ammo will feed better than others.
Hope this Helps
George
Contact Euro Optics with issues not GAP, please. Not passing the Buck here Euro Optics is the Manufacturer not us. If there is an Issue with work we did Euro will contact us.
I will point out a couple common Sako Quad issues.
1. You have to have a head space gauge when changing barrels, if you dont have one get one. barrel clamp nut should be tight 55-65 inch pounds
2. Lots of match ammo will not extract unless fired, its becouse its a squeeze fit into the throat/rifleing wth the lubed Match bullets and the extractor does not have the strength to hold onto it to rip it out untill fired.
3. its a rimfire. do not torque action screws more than 18-25 inch pounds.
4. they use one magazine with all 4 chamberings and because of that some ammo will feed better than others.
Hope this Helps
George
Lapua midas ammo shoots incredibly well(not really a surprise there!)
Wolf target match was about moa
Further testing delayed b/c
Wife likes it so much, she commandeered it!
Wolf target match was about moa
Further testing delayed b/c
Wife likes it so much, she commandeered it!
While not a Euro/GAP Quad owner, I have 2 Quads that sit in Manners T4's with Lilja barrels that have seen a lot of use over the last year or so and I'll second everything George said except a slight correction to #4-- there are 2 mags, one mag for .22LR/.17HM2 and another mag for .22WMR/.17HMR.
You need a headspace gauge when installing the barrels if you want the headspace to be correct and the bolt to cycle properly (I have a pair of PT&G gauges.) Remember, one headspace gauge for .22LR/.17HM2 and another for .22WMR/.17HMR (the magnum calibers have a thicker rim.) The best procedure I've found is this: leave the bolt open then put the barrel in. Snug the barrel retaining bolt and then back it off slightly so the barrel is a little loose. Now insert and close the bolt on the appropriate headspace gauge and while holding the barrel towards the bolt tighten the barrel screw. If you don't follow this procedure you'll often have a difficult time closing the bolt as the headspace can end up too tight and the bolt will be squeezing the rim when you try and chamber a round.
Another issue I'm expecting will get posted in this thread is that Quads in .22LR with Lilja barrels and 10 round mags often will not properly feed the first 1-3 rounds out of the mag; the nose of the bullet often hangs up on the bottom of the chamber and gouges/deforms the bullet nose. Some mag/barrel/rifle combos are worse than others for this habit. What I found is this; Lilja straight cuts the breech end of the barrel and bores the chamber leaving a sharp edge all the way around the chamber. This often results in the sharp edge at the bottom of the chamber gouging the nose of the first few rounds out of the mag, deforming the bullet nose, and causing an FTF. However, on the factory Sako barrels the bottom edge of the chamber/breech is very slightly radiused (maybe .010-.015 at most) at the bottom between about the 5 and 7 o'clock positions. This means there is no sharp edge to grab the nose of the feeding arounds. If you take a fine cratex wheel and *very slightly* radius the bottom of edge of the chamber between 5 and 7 o'clock like the factory Quad barrels the 10 round .22LR mags feed like a champ.
The sharp chamber edge / feeding issue isn't a problem with my .17HMR quad as the pointy bullet nose and bottleneck shape of the case never catches the bottom edge of the chamber. My .22LR Quad wouldn't feed worth a damn with the Lilja barrel until I radiused the bottom edge of the chamber like the factory barrel.
I hope you get your issues sorted out Dale-- when the Quads are running right they're extremely good shooters.
You need a headspace gauge when installing the barrels if you want the headspace to be correct and the bolt to cycle properly (I have a pair of PT&G gauges.) Remember, one headspace gauge for .22LR/.17HM2 and another for .22WMR/.17HMR (the magnum calibers have a thicker rim.) The best procedure I've found is this: leave the bolt open then put the barrel in. Snug the barrel retaining bolt and then back it off slightly so the barrel is a little loose. Now insert and close the bolt on the appropriate headspace gauge and while holding the barrel towards the bolt tighten the barrel screw. If you don't follow this procedure you'll often have a difficult time closing the bolt as the headspace can end up too tight and the bolt will be squeezing the rim when you try and chamber a round.
Another issue I'm expecting will get posted in this thread is that Quads in .22LR with Lilja barrels and 10 round mags often will not properly feed the first 1-3 rounds out of the mag; the nose of the bullet often hangs up on the bottom of the chamber and gouges/deforms the bullet nose. Some mag/barrel/rifle combos are worse than others for this habit. What I found is this; Lilja straight cuts the breech end of the barrel and bores the chamber leaving a sharp edge all the way around the chamber. This often results in the sharp edge at the bottom of the chamber gouging the nose of the first few rounds out of the mag, deforming the bullet nose, and causing an FTF. However, on the factory Sako barrels the bottom edge of the chamber/breech is very slightly radiused (maybe .010-.015 at most) at the bottom between about the 5 and 7 o'clock positions. This means there is no sharp edge to grab the nose of the feeding arounds. If you take a fine cratex wheel and *very slightly* radius the bottom of edge of the chamber between 5 and 7 o'clock like the factory Quad barrels the 10 round .22LR mags feed like a champ.
The sharp chamber edge / feeding issue isn't a problem with my .17HMR quad as the pointy bullet nose and bottleneck shape of the case never catches the bottom edge of the chamber. My .22LR Quad wouldn't feed worth a damn with the Lilja barrel until I radiused the bottom edge of the chamber like the factory barrel.
I hope you get your issues sorted out Dale-- when the Quads are running right they're extremely good shooters.
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Not a very good pic but you get the idea of what the factory chamber looks like. I did this to both of my Rock Creek barrels that Chad did for me with a very fine stone. Worked great!
As for the bolt not working when the action is torqued. That happened to me in my non bedded Manners. Tom offered to help but I got it taken care of. My problem was the bolt release was getting pulled down tight to the top line of the stock. I shaved it down very slightly where the bolt release was and it worked like a champ.
Nice Geno, I no longer have my factory Sako barrels so I can't post a picture of the factory radius job. That slight radius & ramp from about 5 to 7 o'clock is what you need to try and duplicate on the straight-cut Lilja barrels. A small diameter cratex drum does a great job and leaves a very smooth surface finish.
I'll try to get a pic of my modded .22LR Lilja tonight but I simply tried to duplicate how the factory barrels were done.
I have 5 10 round .22LR mags; prior to the radius job each mag would only feed properly when loaded with 7-9 rounds (mag dependent) and even then I'd have the occasional first round misfeed into the bottom of the chamber gouging the bullet nose. After the chamfer/radius job all 5 mags run perfectly loaded with 10.
Edit: Just got home and took a pic of the chamber. The pic exaggerates how deep the ramp/radius is at the bottom, it's only about .020" in from the breech end of the barrel. This is attempt #2; the first time I made the radius much shallower (maybe .010" at most) and only around the 6 o'clock position. That improved the feeding with 10 rounds in the mag but it would still hang up from time to time so I removed the barrel, increased the radius to about .020 and also feathered it up the sides a little more just past the 7 and 5 o'clock locations. That made all the difference in the world; I now have about 7200 rounds down the tube between 5 magazines all of which start with 10 rounds and haven't had a first or second round failure to feed.
Use a fine cratex drum and take it slow and easy! Adding the radius and ramp like the factory Sako barrels leaves a small portion of the case body unsupported and if you extend the radius too far you may risk case ruptures. You only need a small radius & ramp to have a huge effect on feeding effort & reliability.
I'll try to get a pic of my modded .22LR Lilja tonight but I simply tried to duplicate how the factory barrels were done.
I have 5 10 round .22LR mags; prior to the radius job each mag would only feed properly when loaded with 7-9 rounds (mag dependent) and even then I'd have the occasional first round misfeed into the bottom of the chamber gouging the bullet nose. After the chamfer/radius job all 5 mags run perfectly loaded with 10.
Edit: Just got home and took a pic of the chamber. The pic exaggerates how deep the ramp/radius is at the bottom, it's only about .020" in from the breech end of the barrel. This is attempt #2; the first time I made the radius much shallower (maybe .010" at most) and only around the 6 o'clock position. That improved the feeding with 10 rounds in the mag but it would still hang up from time to time so I removed the barrel, increased the radius to about .020 and also feathered it up the sides a little more just past the 7 and 5 o'clock locations. That made all the difference in the world; I now have about 7200 rounds down the tube between 5 magazines all of which start with 10 rounds and haven't had a first or second round failure to feed.
Use a fine cratex drum and take it slow and easy! Adding the radius and ramp like the factory Sako barrels leaves a small portion of the case body unsupported and if you extend the radius too far you may risk case ruptures. You only need a small radius & ramp to have a huge effect on feeding effort & reliability.
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FYI, Champion's Choice does have the Lapua Midas + in stock right now, Champion's Choice - Detail1 - 420162 - Lapua Midas + .22LR Match Ammunition (per 50 Rounds) - Ammunition - Champion's Choice
Here is mine...boy is it a shooter
Took my eurooptice sako out today to get it sighted in. I am very pleased with everything. I do get some feeding issues, but its definitely the match lilja chamber. I found that if you close with purpose (not slam it, but not like your sister either) the issues were far and few between.
I also got the 17HMR barrel for mine, which is what i intend on keeping on it as soon as my go/no go gauges come in. I had both barrels cut to 18"
I haven't been shooting all summer, so it took some time to get back in the groove (is hotter than hell here in Phoenix). Here is my best 50 yard 5 shot group for today...after getting into it others weren't far off.
Looks like my Kidd 10/22 is going to the back of the safe...
Took my eurooptice sako out today to get it sighted in. I am very pleased with everything. I do get some feeding issues, but its definitely the match lilja chamber. I found that if you close with purpose (not slam it, but not like your sister either) the issues were far and few between.
I also got the 17HMR barrel for mine, which is what i intend on keeping on it as soon as my go/no go gauges come in. I had both barrels cut to 18"
I haven't been shooting all summer, so it took some time to get back in the groove (is hotter than hell here in Phoenix). Here is my best 50 yard 5 shot group for today...after getting into it others weren't far off.
Looks like my Kidd 10/22 is going to the back of the safe...
This is very helpful. Thank you.
Took my eurooptice sako out today to get it sighted in. I am very pleased with everything. I do get some feeding issues, but its definitely the match lilja chamber. I found that if you close with purpose (not slam it, but not like your sister either) the issues were far and few between.
I also got the 17HMR barrel for mine, which is what i intend on keeping on it as soon as my go/no go gauges come in. I had both barrels cut to 18"
I haven't been shooting all summer, so it took some time to get back in the groove (is hotter than hell here in Phoenix). Here is my best 50 yard 5 shot group for today...after getting into it others weren't far off.
Looks like my Kidd 10/22 is going to the back of the safe...
Is that barrel threaded or just cut to 18"? B
Ben
Just cut to 18"
I was finally able to pic mine up from the FFL barrel is threaded so it took longer.
quick phone pics
black cerakote, Rhino camo.
quick phone pics
black cerakote, Rhino camo.
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I was finally able to pic mine up from the FFL barrel is threaded so it took longer.
quick phone pics
black cerakote, Rhino camo.
That's just gorgeous, man. Give us a range report soon.
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