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Sako TRG 22 Bipod...?

SilentStalkr

Wonna Be Badass
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Oct 8, 2012
    8,626
    10,353
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    Somewhere in the US
    So, I have had a Sako TRG22 for as long as I can remember. It was my first real precision rifle and the damn thing is just super smooth and ridiculously accurate but I very rarely shoot it much anymore. In fact, yesterday was the first time it has been touched in almost 5 years. First shot at 100 right on bullseye, second shot right on top of the next shot, again ridiculously accurate. I took some more shots out to 520 and still ridiculous. However, shooting it yesterday reminded me of why I grew not to like it. One, imo it screams to have an adjustable back half of some sort or a chassis, which I could do but that’s even more money in this thing. The second thing that bothers me the most is the damn BIPOD!!!! That thing flops around like a freaking fish when not loaded and I can’t stand it. I love the fact that I can load the hell out of the pod but as soon as you let off just the slightest bit that thing is all over the place. Has anyone figured out how to tension the damn stock Sako TRG bipod so that it doesn’t do this? Or, did everyone scrap that bipod in favor of a spigot Mount and an Atlas or some other bipod?
     
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    There is a Sako bipod "o-ring mod" you can search for, but the old threads seem to be broken.

    Basically, you can take the bipod apart at the upper pivot point. Then you take an o-ring and insert it across the channel and reassemble it. The o-ring should be about 1" diameter and about 1/8" thick or so. You will fit it in the channel so it's pretty squished. Buy several so you can play with it as they are so cheap.

    Once you do that, then the bipod will have the o-ring for resistance and won't rattle any more. Every couple years I need to replace the o-ring, but otherwise it works.

    I thought of trying a drop of RTV rubber caulk on each side of the pivot area would also work if you don't want to disassemble the bipod. Just make sure you degrease the areas before putting it on.

    Ironically, I just pulled out the o-ring for the last comp I was in. I found that the tension kept it from pivoting well on uneven ground and now I almost prefer the bipod without it. The way I load the rifle though is by holding the foreend and pulling it back towards me and less on putting forward pressure on the bipod and free recoil though. If you free recoil, you need to load the bipod.

    I have tried other bipods on the TRG and frankly hate them all. The TRG bipod still works the best for me.
     
    I know exactly what your talking about. That floppy wobble drove me nuts so I took the bipod apart and drilled a recessed pocket on each side of the spickot and put short springs in the holes and reassembled. When you rotate it back and forth the leg body pushes against the spring and holds it rather snug. I actually used 2 springs per side, one smaller than the other and they nestle in together. I did this to get more spring restistance. Get the stiffest springs you can find. Works awesome and no range of motion loss. I also took liquid steel epoxy and built up the mating surfaces on the spickot and filed them down for a near precision fit when you plug it into the rifle. I spent many hours mulling over ideas to improve that bipod and I love the bipod now. I constantly tweak the trg to perfection. That was one of the best improvements.
     
    I know exactly what your talking about. That floppy wobble drove me nuts so I took the bipod apart and drilled a recessed pocket on each side of the spickot and put short springs in the holes and reassembled. When you rotate it back and forth the leg body pushes against the spring and holds it rather snug. I actually used 2 springs per side, one smaller than the other and they nestle in together. I did this to get more spring restistance. Get the stiffest springs you can find. Works awesome and no range of motion loss. I also took liquid steel epoxy and built up the mating surfaces on the spickot and filed them down for a near precision fit when you plug it into the rifle. I spent many hours mulling over ideas to improve that bipod and I love the bipod now. I constantly tweak the trg to perfection. That was one of the best improvements.

    That’s a fantastic idea. Can you take pics of exactly where you drilled the holes by chance?
     
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    I know exactly what your talking about. That floppy wobble drove me nuts so I took the bipod apart and drilled a recessed pocket on each side of the spickot and put short springs in the holes and reassembled. When you rotate it back and forth the leg body pushes against the spring and holds it rather snug. I actually used 2 springs per side, one smaller than the other and they nestle in together. I did this to get more spring restistance. Get the stiffest springs you can find. Works awesome and no range of motion loss. I also took liquid steel epoxy and built up the mating surfaces on the spickot and filed them down for a near precision fit when you plug it into the rifle. I spent many hours mulling over ideas to improve that bipod and I love the bipod now. I constantly tweak the trg to perfection. That was one of the best improvements.

    That is a great idea. I'm going to see if a machinist mate of mine can do that.
     
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    Here you go. First I need to make a retraction, I only use one spring per side. I was remembering my first run at this. The springs are 1/4 diameter by 1/2 inch long. As thick a gauge as you can get. I started by drilling from the underside on the spickot so as to center the holes in those narrow rail guides shown at .27 of an inch. My initial holes were about a no.10 drill hole which I later tapped and put set screws in to fill the hole. These holes were for centering only. Then I came in from the top and drilled out 1/4 holes about 3/16 deep or so. I did this on a drill press so precision wasn't exact but very close. If I did it again, for piece of mind I'd do it on a mill and measure everything exact and just mill out 1/4" pockets from above. Make sure your pocket edges are just touching the pivot shank. It is imperative to get those holes centered left to right as you can see you only have .27" to drill a .25" hole. This by far was the simplest fix I came up with as well as extremely effective. Note the grey colored liquid steel I built up the spickot with to eliminate play when plugging into the rifle. This rifle is now extremely quiet. My next project will be some kind of spike to attach to the feet. They do like to slide.
     
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