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School me on gun safes

mzvarner

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 7, 2013
510
378
Spokane, WA
Not sure if this is the best place to put this thread, so feel free to move it if needed. As the title says, I am looking into getting a safe. I dont really want to hear "buy the best you can afford" because that is a no-brainer from my point of view. I would like to hear some subjective thoughts backed up by objective data as much as possible. Also, I view safes as a tool so I do not need a fancy looking one. It will be secured out of sight and only a few will know where it is. I guess I value function over form.

Thanks.
 
The best thing to do is go to google search and type, "search snipers hide gun safes", because this has been so well covered here on the hide and there are already some really good threads about it. This is the best way to search snipers hide by the way. Just type in search snipers hide and whatever you want to look up. I hope this helps.
 
when I bought my safe I was told to hunt for a high fire rating. there is more likely hood of a house fire ruining you fine possessions than some fly by night burgler attempting to brake into one. so I bought a champion crown 50, it has a 1500deg for 2 hour burn rate. obviously if the fire rating is good the rest of the construction of the safe must be alright too...
 
The best thing to do is go to google search and type, "search snipers hide gun safes", because this has been so well covered here on the hide and there are already some really good threads about it. This is the best way to search snipers hide by the way. Just type in search snipers hide and whatever you want to look up. I hope this helps.


Thanks, that worked like a charm. I tried searching the forum with its search tool, but hardly anything poped up.
 
Sturdy...done deal and move forward. Who cares about cosmetics when functionality is all there. Oh, you can pay extra for cosmetics if you like...
 
The best advice I was given out side of fire rating, quality, and construction was to buy a safe the next size bigger than what I though I needed. This sounded like a salesman trying to sell me more. However he was 100% correct, I have had this safe for 2 years, and I have been looking at bigger ones now for almost half of that time. this is after I bought the bigger safe to begin with.
 
The best advice I was given out side of fire rating, quality, and construction was to buy a safe the next size bigger than what I though I needed. This sounded like a salesman trying to sell me more. However he was 100% correct, I have had this safe for 2 years, and I have been looking at bigger ones now for almost half of that time. this is after I bought the bigger safe to begin with.

This^
 
As has been mentioned, fire rating is very important. You will find that many of them use layers of sheetrock as the insulation for the walls, so you can always beef up 5 of 6 surfaces with extra sheetrock, so having the safe larger on the inside will aid in that. Safes are rated by fire rating as is mentioned above. They are also somewhat rated by how long it takes to break into them. Every safe can be opened eventually.

Definitely bolt it down to a concrete floor using expansion inserts into holes drilled into the concrete, as many robbers break in, throw a cable around an unsecured safe and pull it out of a garage with their pickup and take it somewhere to leisurely open it up.
 
Find the nearest manufacturer to your location....see if they have a scratch & dent warehouse. There are some deals out there with minor cosmetic issues that they can't sell as new.
 
A while ago I did a lot of searching for a good safe and ended up choosing between AmSec (amsecusa.com) and Graffunder. Went with amsec (BF series) for the simple reason that it could be bought locally and the company placed it. The Graffunder is better in my view (even thicker steel , specially on the sides), but was hard for me to have delivered and placed. Specs for the Amsec: door is 4 3/4" total thickness with a solid 1/2" steel plate. The sides are 11 gauge (outside), fire protection in the middle and 16 gauge on the inside, total 2". ETL Verified fire protection of 1275°F for 120 minutes. They also have a pretty good warranty.

Hope this helps a little, I found it pretty time consuming to find a safe that was what I wanted. A lot of companies out there sell glorified cabinets, search this site (was a great help for me) and others.
 
Most safes are junk. As been explained 50 times here and other places.

If you want a Safe, AMSEC BF is as low as you should go.

Before you buy anything, make sure you have 100% , quality insurance for all your guns.

-Most safes are bullshit on fire and theft ratings.
-Most safes are chineese junk
-Its cheaper/easier to buy a new safe than move it.
-Don't try and move anything yourselves or with buddies who don't know what they are doing. Lots of people die everyyear from safe accidents, Hire a proffesion who is bonded, llicenced and has the propper equipment to do it safely and without damaging the safe or your property.
-Insurance is #1, after that who gives a shit if it gets stolen, lost or destroyed in a fire, You get new toys.
 
Sturdy Safes. Awesome family owned and operated company, awesome product. Give them a call.

Family owned and opperated tend to be the most dysfunctional of oompanies.

Family and business do not go well together.

Hrdly a selling point for a product.
 
Most safes are junk. As been explained 50 times here and other places.

If you want a Safe, AMSEC BF is as low as you should go.

Before you buy anything, make sure you have 100% , quality insurance for all your guns.

-Most safes are bullshit on fire and theft ratings.
-Most safes are chineese junk
-Its cheaper/easier to buy a new safe than move it.
-Don't try and move anything yourselves or with buddies who don't know what they are doing. Lots of people die everyyear from safe accidents, Hire a proffesion who is bonded, llicenced and has the propper equipment to do it safely and without damaging the safe or your property.
-Insurance is #1, after that who gives a shit if it gets stolen, lost or destroyed in a fire, You get new toys.

If your safe is cheaper to buy a new one over moving it then you are buying a crap safe.

Most are not made in China, the cost to ship them is too high!

Fire ratings are not junk it depends on the safe company, read how they test them to educate yourself on what they claim their fire ratings are.

American Securities Safes, Fort Know and Liberty safes are the best ones... All American made
 
I think summit safes are made in WA. Might check them out. With that said, I really liked the bang for the buck I got for my Superior Safe. Bull Dog Tuff safes in Warren Oregon (right across the Columbia from you) was good to work with and gave me good pricing.
 
Fort Knox's best safes appear to be UL listed as residential security containers, and I certainly wouldn't rank them among the best. Same goes for Liberty, and they make some of their safes in China (if for some reason that matters to you). Nothing wrong with them if you need a cheap way of locking up and providing a medium degree of protection for your stuff, but not even close to the best.

Amsec (American Security Products), Graffunder, and a handful of other such companies make TL-15, TL-30, and other more secure safes in addition to a few basic RSC-classified safes. See AMSEC Safes ? Gun Safes, Security Products, Cash Management » Burglary Ratings Explained for more info.
 
If your safe is cheaper to buy a new one over moving it then you are buying a crap safe.

Most are not made in China, the cost to ship them is too high!

Fire ratings are not junk it depends on the safe company, read how they test them to educate yourself on what they claim their fire ratings are.

American Securities Safes, Fort Know and Liberty safes are the best ones... All American made

Yes they really are junk. The vast majority including Liberty, are shit. Overpriced and overmarketed shit.

You get what you pay for. The VAST majority of fire ratings are bullshit for a couple reasons"

A. They grossly underestimate the heat curve and ammount of time it takes to reach the threshold that will cause a safe to fail

and

B. There is no standardize testing or methods and everyone does it differently. The only people I would trust are AMSEC, as they are known for having just about everything UL tested and even their RSC listed stuff is leaps and bounds better than anything else on the market that is RSC rated.


This has been hashed out tons of times on this site and others. Most consumers and safe sellers are just plain fucking ignorant. Feel free to get in contact with EXPERICNED locksmiths who not only sell these, but service/move/resell these in addition to a normal security business. Fires don't lie, and Police reports don't lie when it comes to what survives and what doesn't. The internet is littered with pictures and stories of people who have ruined collections/valuables beacuse they thought they were buying a safe when all this did was buy a hunk of shitty thin steel, some gypsm board and a pretty paint coat.

Insurance is # 1
Protection from Kids/Quck Smash n Grab is #2
Theft/Fire is # 3, but its going to cost you SERIOUS $ for an actual fire resistant and tool resitant safe unless you luck out and get an old jewell/GSA container on the cheap. You will probally spend more money moving those heavy shits than the safe is worth.
 
^Yup. Cobra is spot on.

Anything is going to be better than nothing, especially when it comes to burglary. Have as many layers of deterrants as possible, to make it as difficult and/or as time consuming as possible. Deadbolts, dogs, security doors, alarms, etc.

With the right tools and enough time, anything generally found in a house will be accessed.
 
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If your safe is cheaper to buy a new one over moving it then you are buying a crap safe.

Most are not made in China, the cost to ship them is too high!

Fire ratings are not junk it depends on the safe company, read how they test them to educate yourself on what they claim their fire ratings are.

American Securities Safes, Fort Know and Liberty safes are the best ones... All American made

There are a shit ton of safes being sold in this country that are made in china, do your homework on that, next are safes made south of the border. Cannon, and a bunch of other well known companies that have gunmaker names on them are imports.
 
Well, here's something about which I can offer a somewhat informed opinion... I sell safes part-time (the company is full time, I am just sort of a part time sales weenie). We sell mostly Champion/Superior and AmSec.

Anyhow, I have already seen some decent input in this thread... such as buy the biggest safe that you have room/budget for. Safes are like garages... you will ALWAYS collect enough stuff to completely fill them. They're also like televisions... I've never heard anyone say, "Ya know... the one I bought is just too damn big. I shoulda gone smaller." Also, as others have said, bolt it down. Not with anchors (they can pull out), but with Tapcon bolts. We use 1/2" diameter Tapcons threaded directly into the concrete foundation.

Anyhow, the Champion Crown series is certainly a nice safe, with the 3/16" body shell, triple step door, etc... My issue with it is the internal hinges; they compromise the fire resistance (because the fire lining has to be notched out to clear the hinges when the door is closed). The Superior Supreme and Untouchable series are also nice; they're made by the same company as Champion as the more "upscale" brand. The Supreme is similar to the Champion Crown, but has external hinges and a few other (mostly inconsequential) features. The Untouchable series has 1/4" body steel, and is friggin' solid. All of these safes are made in Utah.

However, by the time you get up into the Crown/Supreme/Untouchable price range, you're also in the AmSec BF-series price range, and in all honesty, I like the BF at this price point. The 1/2" plate door (or 3/8", depending on the model), the door-to-body fit, the concrete fill, etc... it's all pretty damn nice. AmSec also makes a higher level of gun safe in the HS series, but by then you're talking pretty big money ($8k+ for an HS of any size). They're a HELL of a product... but at that price point, we have the other brand that folks have mentioned- Graffunder.

Graffunders are the tanks of the residential gun safe world. The walls and door are solid steel (how thick depends on which series of Graffunder you're after), and the craftsmanship is second to none. The door-to-body fit is tight enough that a business card can't be inserted in the gap when the door is closed. They're indestructible*, heavy, and expensive. They're the kind of safe that you put in place and build walls around.

Really, at the end of the day, when it comes to buying a safe, determine that your foundation can support it (for instance, an AmSec HS series on a residential pier-and-beam foundation will likely cause problems), determine your budget, and your space requirements. Shop for something with external hinges, the ability to run AC electrical power, active bolts on at least three sides (with dead bolts on the fourth), and at least a 10 gauge body. Check the fire rating. As others have mentioned, most manufacturers get kind of creative with their ratings; stick with a reputable manufacturer (Champion, AmSec, Fort Knox, etc...) and you should be good to go.

*It should be noted that NOTHING is indestructible if a bad guy is motivated enough, has enough time, and/or has the right tools (if someone breaks into your house with a 100 amp plasma cutter, you're screwed). Realistically, the name of the game is to make stealing your stuff difficult enough for the bad guy to give up and go to your neighbor's house. That's a shitty thing to say, but that's the reality of it.
 
Last year I bought a Liberty Gun Safe, one of the first things I looked for was what temperature the safe could withstand, second I wanted a safe that could not only hold multiple guns but could hold thousands of rounds of ammo. I am very happy with the Liberty Safe and would recommend it, also make sure you buy a Dehumidifier for it to keep guns and ammo dry, mine had been set-up to easily add one on. PS Liberty safes are rated high and affordable.
 
Something else to note with the internal hinges that you mentioned, is the inability to completely open the door out to the side. The seal and fit is much better with external hinges, and even if the hinges were cut off, the door is still held in place by the internal bolts.

As has been mentioned, go with the biggest and heaviest you can fit and afford. In my experience, the quoted numbers from the manufacturer are vastly over-rated as far as storage practicality/capacity goes. ("30 gun safe", etc.) You will quickly fill the safe, whether it be with firearm related items, or anything else of value.

Find out the dimensions of the safe you'd like, and cut out a cardboard footprint to see where you can manuever it successfully. You'd be amazed what professional safe manuevers can get them squeezed through. Even without a safe being bolted down, which you absolutely want to do, a thief/thieves are going to have a hell of a time getting a 1500 pound plus safe (when empty) through any sort of tight doorway.

Also, try to place the safe in a corner where you can open the door beyond 90 degrees, and preferably to 180. It also prevents the safe from being easily tipped onto its side, and restricts any tool leverage on the handle side of the door.

Concealment of any type is of course preferential when and if possible - such as inside a closet instead of against open walls, or what have you.
 
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Last year I bought a Liberty Gun Safe, one of the first things I looked for was what temperature the safe could withstand, second I wanted a safe that could not only hold multiple guns but could hold thousands of rounds of ammo. I am very happy with the Liberty Safe and would recommend it, also make sure you buy a Dehumidifier for it to keep guns and ammo dry, mine had been set-up to easily add one on. PS Liberty safes are rated high and affordable.

Ammo in a safe is stupid for a bunch of reasons, most of all, its not worth its space/weight. Buy a Rigid or similar contractor box if you want to keep your ammo separate.


Liberty safes are shit buddy, don't mean to burst ya bubble. Its an expensive tin box with a pretty finish. There is not a liberty safe on this planet I can not get through with an angle grinder and 10 minutes. Even their top of the line shit falls very short of other high quality RSC's like the Amsec BF series mentioned above. Same goes for Cannon, Champion, Winchester, Bass pro or anything else you will find in a non safe specialty store.

Most people who sell safes are idiots, liars, or both. Listen to the guys to do the factory service/work on them, they forgot more about safes than most tards selling them.

Or just buy lots of insurance and spend them money on more guns.
 
Cobra is right. No matter what safe you buy make sure you have a separate insurance policy on all of your firearms. Most homeowners policy's will not cover shit when it comes to firearms. You want full replacement value whether they are stolen, lost, burned, or your ex wife sells them for what you told her you paid for them. I have insurance and every time I buy something new I give my insurance agent a copy of the receipt and a pic with serial number. My safe will only keep tweekers and kids out, not a pro so this is a must. Also a good dog and security system are also a must. Security should have several layers.
 
Yea, I learned first hand why insurance is wonderfull. Lost some guns when my GF's apartment burned down about 6 months ago. Full replacement value from USAA, lets just say it was more than a couple thousand. It was over 10 years worth of premiums, so it pays for itself if you ever use it. Its less than $10/per $1K a year. Thats 1% of value. or .083% per month. If you have USAA, even better with other insurance product discounts.
 
I am in the safe business so let me add a few things here.

The best gun safe when price is no object are from Graffunder. I've seen a lot of gun safes and I don't think anything compares to them. They start at a insurance "B" rating (1/2" plate steel door and 1/4" walls) and go up to E Rate which is 1 1/2" plate steel door with 1" walls as well as custom options. They use a poured concrete-like fire liner giving even their 1/4" wall safes about 2" of thickness and a good burglary and fire resistance. Thicker safes offer even better protection:

Graffunder Safe and Vault Doors from Sage Safe Co. | Residential and Commercial safes and storage vaults

The best gun safe for people on a budget are the Amsec BF Series Safes. They have an honest 1/2" plate steel door and also have a poured light concrete fire liner and inner steel wall giving the safes also almost 2" of protection from fire and burglars. Their HS series safes are even heavier and feature a true UL listed burglary rating from a TL-15 to TL-30 (Tool resistant ratings):

BF Series safes start at around the mid-1000s and go up from there:

http://www.amsecusa.com/gun-safes-BF-main.htm

The HS series are higher priced, but much heavier safes:

http://www.amsecusa.com/gun-safes-HS-main.htm

Amsec is a true safe company. What I mean by that is they make commercial safes for their primary business. The BF series Amsec safe is FAR more secure than even the best major brand gun safe you commonly see.

The Graffunder can be had for the price of the high-end mainstream safes you see and completely blows them out of the water in terms of fit, finish and security. There is no comparison.

Electronic locks vs. Mechanical. Honestly there isn't much difference in overall security for most applications. Burglars don't manipulate locks open. They tend to attack them with hand or power tools. I've never seen a safe professionally drilled open by a burglar to bypass the lock. It takes many thousands of dollars in specialized equipment, drill bits, bore scopes and knowledge to do this and the average meth tweaker just doesn't have these things.

What they do have though are those power tools you left in your garage next to your safe and that big crow bar you left leaning up against the wall next to the sledgehammer. So worry more about how much steel your safe has on the door and walls and not whether they are going to bypass the lock. Make sure the safe you have in your home can withstand the power tools you also have there because they can, and often are, used to attack safes.

With that said, my personal opinion are mechanical Group I type locks (manipulation resistant) are the most secure and also the least likely to break (no motors and solenoids to go bad). HOWEVER, they are not as fast to get into either. If you want a reliable electronic lock I'd lean towards the LaGard brand and would avoid the Sargent and Greenleaf electronic locks (although their mechanical locks are great). Other electronic lock brands fall between these two extremes for reliability. IMO. In short: Electronic locks = convenience. Mechanical locks = reliability. You have to pick one or the other. Mechanical locks can fail and cause a lockout, but this is far more common with electronic locks.

Bolt down your safe. I don't really care how heavy it is unless it's something more than a couple thousand pounds. I've seen very large safes stolen. It happens all the time. If someone got the safe into your house, then it can be gotten out. One man with an appliance dolly can remove a typical gun safe if you think about it. So go to the hardware store and spend 10 bucks on some anchor bolts and tie that thing down to your foundation. Any safe, no matter how strong, is going to be opened if the crooks get it back to their own shop and have time to work on it.

Safes are lightning rods for burglars and you can be sure that if they come across your safe when in your home it's going to draw more than casual attention. So that means you need it to be able to withstand protracted and perhaps brutal attacks for many minutes, or perhaps longer. The only way to make sure this can happen is for the safe to have lots of steel in it and perhaps some concrete of some type. The Graffunder and Amsec safes do this. Other safe brands you commonly see do not. Be sure to bolt these other safes down as that will increase their protection.

You should also place your safe out of obvious view (for instance I wouldn't put it in a garage where someone could see it from the street). I also would tend to put it in a corner with perhaps the opening edge closer to the wall (so door opens away from the wall and not towards it). Why? Because by doing so you make it harder for someone to get pry tools to work on the opening edge with the wall in the way. It's much harder for them to get leverage as they will hit the wall when putting the biting edge of a crow bar on the opening side.

Bolt Work: Honestly this is just a marketing gimmick. More bolts does not mean a safe is more secure necessarily. It may just mean it's more prone to failure as there are more linkages to go bad. I've worked on very large high security Jeweler's safes with just eight bolts (insured to hold $1,000,000+ in jewels). There is no way that these gun safes with 32+ bolts on them are more secure than those jeweler's safes. So don't worry about number of bolts. Worry about how much steel that thing has in the walls and door.

Other things in a safe to avoid are people claiming that internal hinges are "more secure." This is a myth. Hinges on a properly designed safe just keep the door from falling on your foot when it opens. They shouldn't affect security if cut off. I'm also leery of putting in those electric dehumidifiers just in case they have a problem and ignite everything inside your safe. I also wouldn't store my ammo in the safe as it could cause problems during a fire.

In closing, gun safe companies put out a lot of hyperbole. The thing that matters most is whether the safe has lots of steel in the door and walls and whether they are using a poured insulating layer for fire protection and not drywall. Most gun safes do not have these features. The Graffunder and Amsec BF and higher series safes do.

xor quote from this thread.

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/s4-sniper%92s-hide%AE-equipment/26665-best-gun-safe.html
 
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Good electronic locks are not only warranted for life, but have over a 1 million cycle + lifespan.

Phil,

What are your thoughts on the dual/reduant lock systems? Seems like the best of both worlds. Electronic for speed a and manual for reliability/EMP resistance.
 
Tumbler dial. Stay away from a battery-operated, electronic-keypad safe. They FAIL.

...and they are NOT E.M.P.-proof.
 
Good electronic locks are not only warranted for life, but have over a 1 million cycle + lifespan.

Phil,

What are your thoughts on the dual/reduant lock systems? Seems like the best of both worlds. Electronic for speed a and manual for reliability/EMP resistance.

The ele lock is 'pushed' by the makers cause they are so much cheaper than a good S&G manual.
Source for your cycle statement?
I have NEVER seen a S&G manual fail-I have seen 3 ele fail and that's 3 to many.
I have one safe that is 30+ years old, the S&G class-3 manual lock is still going strong.
LG
 
Good electronic locks are not only warranted for life, but have over a 1 million cycle + lifespan.

Phil,

What are your thoughts on the dual/reduant lock systems? Seems like the best of both worlds. Electronic for speed a and manual for reliability/EMP resistance.

That quote is from that thread Hide member "xor" . I personally have a Diebolt safe.It has dual mechanical combs because it came from a bank.

I like the idea of dual combs. So I can't steal from myself.
 
I had been looking to get a new safe for a couple of years now. I used to have a smaller Liberty that I bought a Dicks, sold it when I moved from NC to TX to save shipping weight and went safe-less for 6 yrs because I was planning on moving again. Well 2 yrs ago I moved to Wa and started the search and planning, finished building our house last yr and after 1 ½ yr of research pulled the trigger.

I looked at all of them with the plan of spending 4-5000 for a large well-built safe, Liberty, Cannon, Browning, Ft. Knox, Patriot, Gruffunder, Mesa, Amsec, Sturdy….you name it I looked at it even going as far as making a weekend trip to look at brands I couldn’t see local.

I wanted a large safe, firelined, TL rated…..after MUCH research I had narrowed it down to an Amsec BF-7250 or Sturdy4827-6. A true TL safe in the size I wanted would have been over $7000, more than I was willing to spend, the Amsec BF just states wall/door TOTAL thickness (including their Fire filling), very tough to find what the actual steel size….. After much research its 11ga outer with a 16ga inner I THINK!!, better than most and I still think they are a good safe but it would have a little more $ than a Sturdy safe BUT with thinner steel.( and the BF series has a 3/8"door NOT 1/2 as stated a above post) See this link for shipping damage on an Amsec? Left me thinking about the steel a little more.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_46/35...7250_safe.html

I ended up with a Sturdy 4827-6 which is about the same size as the BF-7250 but better steel and I feel the ceramic wool firelining is better and the price ended up being cheaper. When I called them to order it turned out MUCH** cheaper than ordering it online…..so call them you will be surprised at the price they quote you is much better than what you thought, mine was about 800 cheaper then what I clicked online…so CALL them when ordering!!!!!

So the that I got it Sturdy 4827 is 48w x 27d x 72h was upgraded with a 4gauge steel body 3/8” door, also upgraded the inner to the 7g steel, fire lined, 8x12 stainless plate under the lock with hardplate lock upgrade, extra warranty and pistol rack in the grey finish. When I ordered they took a deposit, I paid 500, then had to wait about 2 mths, they quoted 8-12 weeks and it was dead on 8 when they called. I couldn’t be happier; the door is a very tight fit much better than the Amsec I looked at and the grey paint is better than expected looks real nice. I have a EVA dry unit in mine and in upstate Washington I have not had to dry it yet and it’s been about 8mths, very wet winter with it just being a hint of pink now.

Total cost for a 4827-6 was $4259.00 which was cheaper than the Amsec I was looking at, and with a 4g outer, 7g inner firelined nearly 2000pds it’s a pretty freaking good safe even if it’s not a true TL rated and much cheaper then 6-9000 on a TL-15 or TL-30, If I had to do over again I'd do the same.
 
Not to turn this into an AMSEC is better than X war, but I have the actual schematics from AMSEC for a BF6636. The door does indeed have a 1/2" steel plate door (4 3/4"" overall with 1" of insulation and inner workings. The BF6024 and 7250 have the 3/8" steel plate.) The inner and outer steel on the walls is 1/8" thick (technically between 10 and 11 gauge) and is 2" thick overall, counting the 'concrete' filler. These numbers are easily found on their site as well, although they can't seem to make up their minds between the catalog and site pages, showing either 3.5" or 4.75" for the door, and either 2" or 2 5/8" for the walls. Schematic on the 6636 shows 2" walls, and 1.5" door for the steel plate and filler.

The standard Sturdy definitely has better wall steel at 7 gauge, and of course even better with yours at a 4 gauge outer. Their stated door steel thickness is 5/16". The standard model lists at 1100-1365 pounds. AMSEC BF6636 (65.25" x 36" x 26") lists at 1319 pounds.

A lot of the other stuff will probably be a matter of preference or opinion. I looked at the Sturdy safes as well, and aside from the steel gauge on the walls, found everything else to be preferential with the AMSEC. Contrary to your experience, and of course one piece to another may differ, I found the fit and overall finish quality to be better on the AMSEC. Inside storage arrangement options, and exterior finish options were better as well in my opinion.

After my own research, I believe the cast insulation is superior to the ceramic wool in fire/heat and damage resistance, while adding overall thickness and weight. It also has the "2 Stage Dual fire seals with silicone seal on door jamb and expandable Palusol™ seal on door." Not sure what Sturdy does about their door gap with fire protection.

"I have already had the discussion of why ceramic insulation is not used as the primary insulation in any safe with a legitimate fire rating ... Don't believe the hype. The only companies using ceramic insulations as the primary insulators on their safes are a few gun safe manufacturers ...

... The proof is easy to see. Every UL rated fire safe, thousands of makes and models, use cast insulations to achieve their ratings. Not one of them, nobody has been able to point towards one, that uses ceramics as its primary insulator."

Just like rifles, you can ask 100 different people and get 100 different opinions, but hopefully we are dealing in facts when it comes to actual numbers and realities. Speaking to people (not the manufacturers) that deal with safes day in and day out was quite a help, as they have a great deal of experience with actual fire, burglary and shipping damages, without all of the manufacturer hyperbole. There are a number of forum threads dealing with some type of safe damage that occurred during shipping, Sturdy included. No brand is immune, and who knows how one safe would compare to another, given the exact same circumstances that brought about the damage during shipping.

An example of hyperbole, as I mentioned in an earlier post, is Sturdy's capacity claim with your particular model - "Guns W/Out Fire, #2 Standard Rack- 60, Guns W/Fire, #2 Standard Rack- 46" Of course, all manufacturers are guilty of this. AMSEC states up to 31. 31 to 60 practical firearm capacity? Please! Maybe if you fill it to capacity with handguns piled on top of one another.

Of course I don't mention all this, aside from specific number facts, to rain on your parade. I'd be more than comfortable with having a Sturdy, but the above are the conclusions I came to going through my own research and buying process.

I paid under $2600 delivered from safes4you, in addition to $250 for the safe movers to position it in the house. Granted this was a handful of years ago. The current price from that site/seller delivered is a bit over $2900.

I'd still rather have a Graffunder....
 
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What others have said is very true. Security has to be a multi-layer proposition. My home was broken into last year during the day (8-5) while we were at work. The best thing I had in my basement was a gun safe, AMSEC BF6030 bolted to the concrete from about 10 years ago. The thieves did take 15K of items but did not attempt to attack the safe and I did and still have have replacement cost insurance (thank God for that!!!). So this is what I did with my lessons learned:

1. Had a home security system Installed
2. Bought a second AMSEC BF6030
 
The ele lock is 'pushed' by the makers cause they are so much cheaper than a good S&G manual.
Source for your cycle statement?
I have NEVER seen a S&G manual fail-I have seen 3 ele fail and that's 3 to many.
I have one safe that is 30+ years old, the S&G class-3 manual lock is still going strong.
LG

Oh yea? FROM TSG on TOS,

As with any manufacturer, locks come in grades of quality and cost, just like any other product family. Locks are no different. Service reliability usually follows the relative cost/quality relationship. The 6730 Group 2 lock today is all but forgotten. It was replaced largely by the 6630, the Group 2M version that qualifies for installation on TL rated safes. For RSC rated safes, the Group 2 rating is the baseline requirement for UL listing. Most safe companies migrated to the 6741 locks long ago where the safe rating would allow the change, because it is so much less costly.

Others moved to other brands, predominantly the LaGard 3300. The cost of Dial & Dial Ring kits was a big factor too, whereas the price of S&G Dials have always been considerably higher cost. It's a package deal, and the combined cost for a set, lock-dial-ring, has been the metric for these choices. Long ago, LaGard offered package prices that were considerably cheaper. For a while, almost everyone in the gunsafe business moved to LaGard with a few exceptions.

In the Locksmith world, the LaGard has a legacy of poor reliability. That legacy came from a bad launch of their products in the early 80's, and a series of poor decisions choices about how to support the industry when they had a serious rash of failures. Those problems were resolved long ago, but the legacy lives on. In the gunsafe industry, the lack of technical expertise of the market allowed the LaGard product to thrive and aggressive pricing placed it in a leading role. There were other players that came and went. The Taylor Resources PPI P70 lock, later bought by Ilco-Unican had it's day. They faded after Ilco bought the company. Then, the more recent player, the Lock1One came to play with a 6730 level knock-off that is now known as the BigRed. This is the lock that AMSEC uses today on all of the gunsafe and residential products, as well as many light commercial safes. The BigRed has been a good lock at a low price, but retained the high quality traits of the 6730.

The key differences in these locks are materials and manufacturing methods. The traditional 6730/6630 locks are a collection of machined and stamped brass alloy parts, as is the BigRed. The S&G 6741 and LaGard 3300 locks are largely made of zinc die-cast and aluminum stamping components. The machined brass parts are far more precise, durable and longer lasting. The brass parts cost a lot more to manufacture, and are made for a far more expensive material, hence the cost differences.

As for reliability, our records don't favor one over the other much in this diverse lock spectrum when used in residential applications. The typical residential user opens a safe once or twice per day. In commercial use, the safes can be opened more than 100 times each day. So, the problem becomes longevity, and this is where the locks with brass components bear fruit with much better wear characteristics, resulting in longer service life. A typical mechanical lock will operate 30,000-50,000 cycles if it is serviced regularly. Therein lies the hitch... mechanical locks require periodic service, and in commercial applications they get that service if the owner is prudent and has robust maintenance programs for all of their equipment.

In residential use, 30,000 cycles is a lifetime, so the longevity of the locks becomes far less evident. Most of these low-cost locks installed in the early 90's will not reach their service limits for another 30-40 years. Consequently, the residential user is not inclined to solicit regular service to extend the life.

Service failures on residential safe locks are mostly attributed to poor combo setting techniques in factories focused on mass production, where the care and precision is disregarded. Another huge source of problems is in the selling cycle, wherein the dealers interfere with the process by setting the safes on simple common one-number combos for display purposes, then later return the combo to the factory numbers when they sell the safe. These dealers are not trained in the delicate process, and they are responsible for a huge source of lockouts and service calls.

Combo locks have a "dialing tolerance", where there is a range around the ideal set-point of each number that should allow the lock to open. Our factory setting process requires the installer to test the over/under range to verify the combo is set properly. This quality step is imposed on our import vendors as well. Every lock is dialed 1/2 high and low to assure each number is set in the middle of that tolerance range. I know most other gunsafe manufacturers hardly understand these concepts. These are lessons learned from decades of making safes for commercial service.

Which brings me to the point of the dialog. Electronic locks. Since I designed the first retrofittable digital safe lock in 1989, it has been a standard of ours to assure a lock that lives service-free for at least 1,000,000 cycles. Yes, that's what I said, one million cycles without any regular maintenance. I can't say the same for any of the "other" lock manufacturers. The UL ratings only require 10,000 cycles. I won't share the brand vs longevity data we have collected, but suffice it to say this is largely why so many have low regard for electronic locks. We have all had our challenges with e-locks as the technology evolved. I can say, without reservation, that the ESL10 and ESL20 lock we make today lasts longer and fails less than any other mechanical or electronic lock made. We keep detailed statistics, and we sell almost every lock made, so this is genuine statistic based on real service reliability.

So, digital locks have a legacy of their own, but that has been polluted by the failings of lock companies to test and maintain a continuous improvement program like our own. Newcomers with products designed in China by engineers unfamiliar with our safes and history have brought a cloud of doubt of e-locks. Some of our own big-name US companies have had wide-spread failures with poor designs and poor quality control, adding to the negative light shed on e-locks.

In the grand scheme, the e-lock is a MUCH better choice, if a quality lock is selected. Backup mechanical systems are a band-aid for digital reliability. The e-lock offers the user the privacy of combo change without anyone else knowing the code. They offer absolute manipulation resistance, as code testing is prevented with penalty lockout periods. They live longer by as much as 100 times. They auto-lock when the door is closed, so there is never the accidental unlocked safe because you neglected to spin the dial off the combo. They don't require regular costly professional service, and they are many times faster to open in crisis conditions.

You choose, but do that with your eyes wide open.
 
The other issue is after an attack. Most people will attack the lock/dial, usualy smashing it off in an attack.

With an electronic, they can fish the wires, and attach a new elock and get the safe open. With a Manual, they will be drilling (and destroying the safe). In cases of a fire where you need to open and get the contents out fast (so the safe isint cooking in coals for days), this is critical. Either way, AMSEC has a fire/protection warranty and will fix/replace it.
 
FROM TSG on TOS,

I like to let statistics tell me the real story, and set rumors and feelings aside.

I shouldn't do this and share... but to make a point.... I just ran the report for Service Cases closed from January 1 thru March 31, 2014. Thought it would be rather telling about what the REAL statistics say.

Mechanical 3-wheel and 4-wheel locks (all brands, all models) : 55 Cases.
ESL10 and ESL 20 Digital Locks : 12 Cases.

Then, overlay that with the "stupid factor", where we average over 50% of digital locks returned and evaluated for root cause failure mode do not show any problem, and still are in perfect working order.

That tells you a little bit about the misinformation about mechanical lock reliability. Mechanical locks fail almost 10 times more frequently that ESL10 and ESL 20 locks.

I'm just say'in... let the light shine!



and





The keypad is simply replaced. If the cable is damaged, then a new RJ11 can be installed. Worst case, the cable is cut flush to the door face, we use 4 probes into the wire ends to power the lock and enter the code from another keypad. There is always some spare cable looped inside. With a little finesse, one should be able to wiggle an inch or two out of the hole. There should be no reason to drill for this cause.

One thing that makes the comparison of e-lock to mechanical unfair is that the mechanical locks will start to show signs that there is a failure on the horizon. The fool is the guy that ignores the symptoms. When the lock doesn't open reliably every time, and it had been "on the numbers" for a long time, the lock is telling you it's getting sick. A safe tech would recognize this and service the lock, and reset the combo. The fool waits until the lock stops opening, even though they suspected something was going wrong. Fortunately, in most cases a competent locksmith that is not out to burn the customer will do a few tests and figure out the problem, quickly open the safe and take care of the issue. Much of the time, selling a new lock is the best opportunity to make a reasonable profit on the work.

E-locks may show similar signs, and if the user is prudent they will avert catastrophe and call for service. Again, most people opt to have a new lock installed as a best measure for long term reliability. However, e-locks can go poof. It's really pretty rare, unless someone intentionally made that happen. When an e-lock lets the magic smoke out of the microchip, there is no technique to make it work once more. This is not as frequent as you might think, but it does happen.

Now, to utter the dark truth about "some" Locksmiths. There is no way to know when a Locksmith might be shady. It is no different than a shady car repair guy. They can easily mask the truth and say that the safe is locked out and must be drilled. That act of dishonesty can change a $60 service call into a $500 drill job. It's a compelling motive, and an easy way to make a lot more on a service call. There is no way to tell how often this happens, but the fact that 50% of the e-locks we get back work perfectly, even with holes drilled in them, tells a pretty compelling tale. It's even more suspicious when the safe is "under warranty, so the factory pays for the work"... The tech looks like a hero in the end user's eyes. They sure aren't going to report any suspicious activity if they get a working safe and a new lock out of the deal for free. I think you get the picture. We believe there may be a fairly significant degree of dishonesty at play, but there is no way to prove it.

I'm not accusing Locksmiths of being dishonest, but you can see it would be very easy for them to do so, and we have evidence that suggests some of this happens. Our policy requires that the removed parts must be returned before we will pay the invoice. We do a diagnostic on all returned parts to determine the root cause so we can focus on continuous product improvement. There are a lot of locks that seem to be just fine when we get them back.
 
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I went down this road in January. I needed more room, already had a Browning with a RSC rating. It's not a bad safe. I decided to order a Graffunder B series. I could not be happier. Fit and finish are awesome and it's a built. YMMV
 
Vaults is where its at. When I build my house in the next couple years......... ICF with Steel Plating and TL rated Vault door.
 
When I purchased my safe two years ago I did an exhaustive search and there are only two manufacturers that should be considered unless you have $5K to spend. In that case, Graffunder or better yet google "used vaults". If your are patient and have the means to move a actual vault you can get some serious theft and fire protection for a lot less than you probably think. But figure on moving something that weights over 3500 lbs. If money is an issue........See below.

Theft is your main concern-> Sturdy Safe. You can spec out thicker steel and even stainless to fight against torch attack. Unless they are well prepared and have some time to work, I'm guessing that most theives will NOT make it into a Sturdy safe.

Fire is your main concern-> AMSEC BF, or better if you can afford. They don't use bullshit drywall as a means to insulate, they use a poured lightweight concrete. AMSEC BF is also much better than almost everything else out there in terms of theft protection, I just believe that Sturdy Safe beats them by a small margin.

Liberty, Browning, anything that Dick's, Cabela's or Dunhams sells. Thin sheet meatal and almost no-existent fire protection! Not worth the cost unless your main concern is keeping the guns out of children's hands. In that case save your money and buy trigger locks.
 
With all of the subject matter expertise already chiming in, there is very little that I can offer, other than to provide some subjective thoughts backed up by objective data and say buy the best you can afford.

And always, without exception, be very very sneaky with the placement of your safe, hide that badboy out of sight and don't tell anyone where it is.

Probably a good idea to not tell anyone what the combination is either, just sayin'.