Rifle Scopes Scope and cheek positioning

rimfire

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Minuteman
Aug 26, 2013
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I'm trying to optimally position a scope. My understanding is that you should set the scope at max magnification, then slide the scope back and forth until you eliminate any shadow around the edges.

But is there an optimal spot where my cheek weld should be? Because if there isn't, I can mount the scope anywhere and get the proper eye relief by moving my cheek forward/rearward with enough neck contortion. And my cheek can move a fair bit along the stock before I feel like I'm in an uncomfortable position.

Edit: Updated in post #7 with where I positioned the scope.
 
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I use the closed eyes method. Have the gun rested holding the gun and close your eyes when you rest your cheek. Get comfortable and open your eyes. That is where the scope needs to be. May need to move forward or back. May need to move up or down. I do this sequence many times while mounting a scope to make sure my head is positioned in a comfortable position since I will be in that position for a while. You may also want to try this in the prone position. All depends on what your shooting position will mostly be.
 
If you shoot mostly prone, you will want the scope further forward than if you shoot primarily offhand, kneeling, or sitting. If you use a shooting sling, it will draw the rifle in tighter to you and you'll want the scope mounted further forward than if you shoot without a sling. I wish spacers were standard equipment with all rifle stocks. In my opinion, length of pull is generally too little on most stocks. Increasing length of pull will also have the effect of moving the scope forward, and vice versa.

EDIT: If there's a scope out there with extraordinarily forgiving eye relief, this is all a moot point. In general, as magnification increases, eye relief forgiveness decreases. Of course, I don't shoot with any $1K+ scopes. Maybe you get what you pay for with respect to "margin for error" regarding eye relief.
 
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This^^^^

We had Manners add the adjustable LOP to our T-4A as it was too short stock for both my wife and I. And I think I still need to add some length.
 
I use the closed eyes method. Have the gun rested holding the gun and close your eyes when you rest your cheek. Get comfortable and open your eyes. That is where the scope needs to be. May need to move forward or back. May need to move up or down. I do this sequence many times while mounting a scope to make sure my head is positioned in a comfortable position since I will be in that position for a while. You may also want to try this in the prone position. All depends on what your shooting position will mostly be.
Yep. Might as well shoot comfortably, even if it means adjusting the length of pull first (if you can). Plenty of recoil pad gadgets out there to adjust LOP, and the cheek weld if necessary. IMHO, setting the scope eye relief is secondary to getting this right.
 
OK, so I found a comfortable cheek weld while seated, and then moved the scope to get good eye relief at max magnification. Turns out I had to move the scope as far rearward as the rings and base would allow.





Other than being a little aesthetically displeasing, is there anything wrong with having the scope so far rearward. I've still got plenty of room from the eyepiece to my eye, plus this is a rimfire rifle, so I'm not going to get scope-eye.

I wonder if such an extreme position is indicative that I'm doing something else wrong?
 
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My scope is moved almost all the way to the rear like yours. Not saying it's the correct way but it was where I found my eye relief. Shooting prone being behind the rifle I was expecting to have to position it more forward & I tried w/o luck.

Like said not saying it's the correct way but you're not alone in your positioning of the scope. Maybe I'm doing it wrong as well & wouldn't mind hearing if that's the case.
 
If that were a .30 cal or better, you would need to move that scope forward in order to drive the rifle and not be driven by it.

Having little recoil, you are most likely showing lots of love to the rifle when on the bench. Recoil would drive the need for change, but since you don't have it, rock on.