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Scope Base Bedding -- Why not torque screws to spec while epoxy dries?

stanley_white

If it ain’t broke, you can’t resist.
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Feb 24, 2008
    778
    1,055
    Washington D.C. Metro Area
    Good evening everyone.

    I have watched many good YouTube videos and read many good threads on this forum that discuss bedding a scope base.

    One question I have, that I was not able to find the answer to:

    Why aren't the screws torqued to spec when the epoxy is drying?

    I suspect I am overthinking this, but if I want the epoxy to take up the empty space under the base when the screws are torqued to spec, I would think I would torque to spec when the expoxy is drying.

    If anyone can square me away I would appreciate it.

    Thank you in advance.

    Take care.

    -Stan
     
    Good evening everyone.

    I have watched many good YouTube videos and read many good threads on this forum that discuss bedding a scope base.

    One question I have, that I was not able to find the answer to:

    Why aren't the screws torqued to spec when the epoxy is drying?

    I suspect I am overthinking this, but if I want the epoxy to take up the empty space under the base when the screws are torqued to spec, I would think I would torque to spec when the expoxy is drying.

    If anyone can square me away I would appreciate it.

    Thank you in advance.

    Take care.

    -Stan
    If there is a gap the bedding compound is intended to fill that empty space without imparting flex to the part.
    If you torque it and close that gap mechanically with the fasteners then the bedding compound does nothing but fill useless space and you have a flexed part which is not what you want.
    Therefore you use the fasteners tight enough only enough to locate the parts.

    I check for a gap in the empty rear with the front fasteners tightened. You can tap the rear base and hear if it clicks as it closes together or see light or slide paper etc you want to fill that space with bedding compound.

    If you have space bed it.
    If it’s a custom with its own paired base leave it alone.
     
    I use green loc-tite (for press fit parts). I apply liberally, just give the slightest whiff of snug on the screws, wipe excess, and let cure. Come back later and torque screws to spec.

    Figure I don't put any real torque on the screws to warp the base, just locate and bring the base close too the receiver. Glue fills the gaps and gives a steady base to apply torque to later.



    Only time I've ever had to do this was aluminum 22lr receivers. I've never found a decent machined steel center-fire receiver that I could set the base on and make it warp at all.