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Scope Base Installation Help

nic_bravo_whiskey

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 30, 2008
554
6
El Paso, Texas
I removed the old base on my 10FP, but when I did, the screws were incredibly tight. I broke two torx wrenches trying to remove the screws. I bedded the new TPS Steel base, but when installing it, the screws go in very tight. I think there is loctite still in the threads, and I don't want to mess up the screws.

What size tap do I use? Is it metric or standard? I was thinking of just ordering a kit from Midway. Any tips when doing this?
 
Photos? Little confusing what's going on. Locktite can usually be cleaned up with dental picks, CLP and running the screw in and out a couple times. If it's a real mess, sometimes a little heat helps to get things going.

You say you bedded the base...are you sure it's locktite in the threads or were the screws epoxied in from the bed job? I've never broken a wrench trying to remove a base screw...typically the screws snap first.
 
I removed the old base on my 10FP, but when I did, the screws were incredibly tight. I broke two torx wrenches trying to remove the screws. I bedded the new TPS Steel base, but when installing it, the screws go in very tight. I think there is loctite still in the threads, and I don't want to mess up the screws.

What size tap do I use? Is it metric or standard? I was thinking of just ordering a kit from Midway. Any tips when doing this?

Could you qualify your statement above? Did you bed the base, and did you install the screws when you bedded it? Before I did anything else I would visually inspect the threaded holes. Clean them with acetone, and then run a tap the same size as the existing holes through. That should clear out any gunk. What you don't want to do is retap a cross threaded hole.

Chip
 
Yeah, I actually broke two or three torx bits trying to remove the old base. I bought this rifle from a friend, and I don't know if he used loctite, tightened them way beyond what they were supposed to be, or cross threaded one of them.

I finally got the old base off and threw it away along with the old rings because they damaged my old IOR Scope. I didn't want this to happen with my new PST. I bought a new base, and it turns out it needed to be bedded, which I'm sure was the problem with the old base. So I bedded it on the side that needed it.

Now, when I try to install the base, I can't because either the threads are messed up due to being cross threaded, or are full of ten year old loctite. This is why I want to run a tap through.

So if the threads are damaged due to being cross threaded, don't run a tap? Drill and tap for new screws?

And I'm sure I didn't get any JB Weld in the holes. I used playdough and Kiwi to clog the holes. Everything went well during the bedding process, and it actually came out really good.
 
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So if the threads are damaged due to being cross threaded, don't run a tap? Drill and tap for new screws?

If it's loctite you should see it. I would try to run a current size tap through it. Look through the bolt races as you do it. If you see white dust in there that is loctite. If you see lots of metal shavings (if it's not much you should be OK) its probably time to have it drilled and tapped out to 8-40 threads.

Chip
 
If it's loctite you should see it. I would try to run a current size tap through it. Look through the bolt races as you do it. If you see white dust in there that is loctite. If you see lots of metal shavings (if it's not much you should be OK) its probably time to have it drilled and tapped out to 8-40 threads.

Chip

If I do this, will I have to drill the base out as well for the larger screws?
 
too late now, but a hot soldering iron on the bolts usually will loosen about any loctite, superglue, etc before twisting. I usually do this to all unknown small set screws as well. Another way to do it is to put the torx on the bolt and heat the shaft of the driver with a small torch so the heat conducts down to the bolt while turning.
 
too late now, but a hot soldering iron on the bolts usually will loosen about any loctite, superglue, etc before twisting. I usually do this to all unknown small set screws as well. Another way to do it is to put the torx on the bolt and heat the shaft of the driver with a small torch so the heat conducts down to the bolt while turning.

Thanks for help, I'll remember that for next time. I just had a gunsmith run a tap and clean the threads up. It worked. I installed the base without any more problems, torqued to 30 in/lbs. Now, the barreled action, with the base installed, is getting cerekoted.