how are you supposed to level your scope i bought wheeler level kit it told to level the elevation turret with out cap with my action so i did. i stepped back to inspect my work when i noticed the stock was twisted way to the left. it shoots fine 1/4 moa just look funny
Rifle Scopes scope leveling
- Thread starter zach12
- Start date
Re: scope leveling
Throw the level away and use a feeler gauge to square the bottom of the scope to the action
Throw the level away and use a feeler gauge to square the bottom of the scope to the action
Re: scope leveling
How do you use the feeler gauge? Do you use a stack of them that just slides between the action and the flat on the bottom of the scope under the turrets?
How do you use the feeler gauge? Do you use a stack of them that just slides between the action and the flat on the bottom of the scope under the turrets?
Re: scope leveling
I agree feeler gauge method, made me quit using level level level by wheeler. Everytime i used that leveling system it showed level but looked way off to me my friends, and gunsmith. I got to the point to where I thought we dont know how to hold a rifel straight. I then/and stukk use Feeler gauge method which is simple. I must have been using wheeler gauge wrong.
I agree feeler gauge method, made me quit using level level level by wheeler. Everytime i used that leveling system it showed level but looked way off to me my friends, and gunsmith. I got to the point to where I thought we dont know how to hold a rifel straight. I then/and stukk use Feeler gauge method which is simple. I must have been using wheeler gauge wrong.
Re: scope leveling
The feeler gauge method will work if you have a flat top on the action or a base like a picatinny rail. I've found it best to build up the stack just to the point where the scope does not rock (like a seesaw) in the rings. Try to put even pressure, e.g. just push down slightly in the center of the elevation turret, on it because it's still possible to skew the reticle slightly.
Tighten up on of the rings to spec and remove the stack. Otherwise, it can be hard to get out once both rings are tight. You don't want to scratch the underside of the scope.
The feeler gauge method will work if you have a flat top on the action or a base like a picatinny rail. I've found it best to build up the stack just to the point where the scope does not rock (like a seesaw) in the rings. Try to put even pressure, e.g. just push down slightly in the center of the elevation turret, on it because it's still possible to skew the reticle slightly.
Tighten up on of the rings to spec and remove the stack. Otherwise, it can be hard to get out once both rings are tight. You don't want to scratch the underside of the scope.
Re: scope leveling
i think the feeler gauge method works good as long as your rail is level... which - who would know how to check that. On an AR, if the rail isn't exactly straight, it will be off, but at least it will be matched to that portion of the rail, i guess.
I have a couple of scopes where my feeler gauge doesn't have enough gauges to build up to the bottom of my scope. guess i'd better get a larger feeler gauge.
i think the feeler gauge method works good as long as your rail is level... which - who would know how to check that. On an AR, if the rail isn't exactly straight, it will be off, but at least it will be matched to that portion of the rail, i guess.
I have a couple of scopes where my feeler gauge doesn't have enough gauges to build up to the bottom of my scope. guess i'd better get a larger feeler gauge.
Re: scope leveling
You could also use a stack of business cards. That way when you pull them put it won't scratch the scope/base.
You could also use a stack of business cards. That way when you pull them put it won't scratch the scope/base.
Re: scope leveling
The feeler gauge method is excellent in most cases. It works particularly well with picatinny rails and Larue mounts and is by far the best option when dealing with scopes that do not have cross hairs type reticles such as circle dots. The feeler gauge method can also make it obvious if the reticle in your scope is canted. This is the case more than you would think. Be careful when using the feeler gauge method with horizontal slot rings. The scope will lower as the cap screws are tightened and you do not want to bend the scope by having a stack of feeler gauges to tightly under the saddle when you tighten the cap screws.
When the feeler gauge method is not an option such as on an 11mm Anschutz receiver I find the best scope leveling method is free hand. Set the scope to its lowest power and standing behind the rifle such that you can see the action tang and a severely restricted (vignetted) view through the scope attempt to line up the bottom of the crosshair with the center of the tang. I have found this much more effective than trying to mess with levels and plum lines.
The feeler gauge method is excellent in most cases. It works particularly well with picatinny rails and Larue mounts and is by far the best option when dealing with scopes that do not have cross hairs type reticles such as circle dots. The feeler gauge method can also make it obvious if the reticle in your scope is canted. This is the case more than you would think. Be careful when using the feeler gauge method with horizontal slot rings. The scope will lower as the cap screws are tightened and you do not want to bend the scope by having a stack of feeler gauges to tightly under the saddle when you tighten the cap screws.
When the feeler gauge method is not an option such as on an 11mm Anschutz receiver I find the best scope leveling method is free hand. Set the scope to its lowest power and standing behind the rifle such that you can see the action tang and a severely restricted (vignetted) view through the scope attempt to line up the bottom of the crosshair with the center of the tang. I have found this much more effective than trying to mess with levels and plum lines.
Re: scope leveling
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: shooting4life</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You could also use a stack of business cards. That way when you pull them put it won't scratch the scope/base. </div></div>
That is a good idea!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: shooting4life</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You could also use a stack of business cards. That way when you pull them put it won't scratch the scope/base. </div></div>
That is a good idea!
