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Rifle Scopes Scope mounting on a AR

Schrödinger's Cat1

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Minuteman
Jun 13, 2017
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Hello all, I hope this has not been asked too many times, but I don't see it when using the search function. I have a Kahles 624i and a Bobro dual lever mount. My understanding is that I don't need to level anything, just put the scope in the mount, and tighten in a spiral pattern to spec is that correct ? Also how do I ensure that the scope is not canted at all and that the reticle is in a straight line, there does not seem to be any perfectly flat surface to put a level on. With regard to eye relief, I know I can just try every rail slot and try to decide what I like best, but is there a more scientific way of finding the perfect spot ?
Thanks in advance, and I apologize if these questions are really simple and dumb, newbie here :rolleyes:
 
Without leveling anything, you are guaranteed a canted reticle. If mounting a scope in a QD one piece mount, check to see if the Arisake Scope Leveling Tool will work....it's the fastest and easiest way to mount the scope. You'll need a flat bottom on the base, sharp edge on the base, and enough clearance for the triangular piece of the leveler to do its job.

If that won't work, some feeler gauges are not much much more difficult. Some people use a deck of cards.

Getting the reticle level will take some effort though.
 
Take your wrenches with you next time you shoot, hang a string with a weight on the end of it at 100 yards to gravity can pull it straight down. Shoulder the rifle and then adjust the reticle until the cross hairs line up with the string. You reticle is now level with the fall of gravity and you did it while in a natural shooting position so that you wont be unnaturally trying to cant the rifle to shoot it level, it just will be.
 
Thanks guys, I think I'll try both. I assume that turret and reticle are aligned on all scopes ? Because that is how the Arisaka seems to work. What about eye relief ?

It should be but it is far from guaranteed that the reticle will match the body of the scope. And honestly it doesnt matter if it is or not, just so long as its level and tracks straight with the level youre good. If the reticle is out of level from the path it takes as you dial that can be an issue. IE you adjust it up 10 mils but it actually goes 10 mils up and 1 over then you have an issue that you will need to account for.

If you are leveling it with the rifle shouldered as if you are shooting then you should obviously be moving the scope fore and aft to set the eye relief as well before tightening it all down. Position it with it at max magnification where the positioning is most critical so that you dont find zooming in moves you out of your "eye box"
 
The reticle is aligned in MOST scopes. The better the scope, the better your chances are that the reticle is aligned.
Yet another method is to put a level on your AR rail. Level the gun. Then put a level on the top turret of your scope. If the gun is level and the turret is level, your scope is leveled to the gun. Tighten it up, watching that everything stays level as you secure it. Some mounts are notorious for turning the scope as you tighten. Go SLOW and check often. In my Sphur mount, the mount has a level built in the base. I use that.

Now beware, if you are not used to shooting a truly level scope, the first time you look through it, it WILL look canted. If you did everything right, it's not the reticle, it's your head. We all angle our head ever so slightly when we put our cheeks onto the gun. IF, you leveled the scope, and leveled the reticle in it, trust it, not your eyes. You'll get used to it once you learn it's ok.

Hope that makes sense, and helps.
 
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If youre going to go off of the turret caps you better spin them half a revolution and see if it stays level since the turret cap is independent from the actual internals and can be slanted on its own. The further out you get from the erector and the more pieces you put between them the more likely you are to have tolerance stacking issues. Its the internals that are vital, not the covers.

Just use the external string so that you dont have to worry about manufacturing tolerances and slop. Gravity doesnt get man made errors imparted on it and so long as its not a hurricane youll have decent results.
 
The reticle is aligned in MOST scopes. The better the scope, the better your chances are that the reticle is aligned.
Yet another method is to put a level on your AR rail. Level the gun. Then put a level on the top turret of your scope. If the gun is level and the turret is level, your scope is leveled to the gun. Tighten it up, watching that everything stays level as you secure it. Some mounts are notorious for turning the scope as you tighten. Go SLOW and check often. In my Sphur mount, the mount has a level built in the base. I use that.

Now beware, if you are not used to shooting a truly level scope, the first time you look through it, it WILL look canted. If you did everything right, it's not the reticle, it's your head. We all angle our head ever so slightly when we put our cheeks onto the gun. IF, you leveled the scope, and leveled the reticle in it, trust it, not your eyes. You'll get used to it once you learn it's ok.

Hope that makes sense, and helps.

In the Spuhr mount or if you have an Ariska mount device with the wedge, it does not matter if the rifle itself is level or not. You have the rifle completely vertical and you can still align the scope level with the wedge system. Once you insert the wedge, and if its in there tight, its level to the gun, regardless if the rifle is sitting on a level field. Thats the whole point of the leveling system, dont look to much into this. Using the wedge level or a feeler gauge is the easiest way to mount a scope.