I mentioned in a thread recently that I epoxied my scopes in place when I mounted them (I'm sure that raised some eyebrows.)
I was mounting one yesterday and thought I would explain how I do it... I'm sure it's nothing new to some, but others may glean some information from the post.
1) Lap the rings.
2) Holding the barreled action in a vise (with wood jaw inserts), I level the top of the mount base - or top of the rail in this case.
3) Apply the epoxy to the ring bottoms. This is JB Weld. The 1:1 mixing ratio makes it easier than Marine Tex or Devcon for small jobs like this.
4) Insert the scope into the rings and align it "square."
The edge of my gate shown above is plumb - according to my 6 foot level.
So with the action squarely held in the vise, I can align the vertical crosshair along the edge of the plumb gate, which is about 20-yards from my vise.
It's a little difficult to see in the photo because the camera can only focus on one plane - the gate in this case, but your eye can rapidly change focus between the straight edge and the crosshiars. It's a little more practical in application than the photo above illustrates.
After you snug it up (I don't torque the screws at this point), you can use Q-tips and thinner or acetone to clean up whatever squeezes out from between the rings and bases.
Oh, and if the scope ever needs to be removed, you sipmly "rap" the bottom half of the ring with a wooden mallet and it will pop off. Use epoxy remover on the scope and the ring half to clean up the two.
Necessary? No, it's not necessary, but it does provide an additional layer of reassurance for me.

I was mounting one yesterday and thought I would explain how I do it... I'm sure it's nothing new to some, but others may glean some information from the post.
1) Lap the rings.

2) Holding the barreled action in a vise (with wood jaw inserts), I level the top of the mount base - or top of the rail in this case.

3) Apply the epoxy to the ring bottoms. This is JB Weld. The 1:1 mixing ratio makes it easier than Marine Tex or Devcon for small jobs like this.

4) Insert the scope into the rings and align it "square."

The edge of my gate shown above is plumb - according to my 6 foot level.
So with the action squarely held in the vise, I can align the vertical crosshair along the edge of the plumb gate, which is about 20-yards from my vise.
It's a little difficult to see in the photo because the camera can only focus on one plane - the gate in this case, but your eye can rapidly change focus between the straight edge and the crosshiars. It's a little more practical in application than the photo above illustrates.
After you snug it up (I don't torque the screws at this point), you can use Q-tips and thinner or acetone to clean up whatever squeezes out from between the rings and bases.
Oh, and if the scope ever needs to be removed, you sipmly "rap" the bottom half of the ring with a wooden mallet and it will pop off. Use epoxy remover on the scope and the ring half to clean up the two.
Necessary? No, it's not necessary, but it does provide an additional layer of reassurance for me.