Scope rings that do not cant the reticle as you tighten them?
- Thread starter Petrov
- Start date
http://www.eurooptic.com/american-rifle-m10-qd-l-mount-30mm-35mm-137-height-20-moa.aspx
American Rifle Company
American Rifle Company
Ah crap I wish I could use that, Im left handed so its a no go. Those knobs too big, not a fan of QD stuff any way.
Then just get the rings, or get a zero moa and mount it ass backwards.
http://www.eurooptic.com/american-rifle-m10-30mm-scope-rings-28mm-11-height-med.aspx
http://www.eurooptic.com/american-rifle-m10-30mm-scope-rings-28mm-11-height-med.aspx
Those look very promising, I dont think I will be getting a one piece mount sicne I want to get a cosine indicator. Looks like they have a way to mount it but once again wrong side 
The ARC rings are excellent. Just to clarify, the knobs are not too big and they have an Allen head in the middle so you can torque to spec, they just happen to double as quick detach. If this is a conventional bolt rifle then just get a sloped rail and the regular ARC rings and you're in business.
Those look very promising, I dont think I will be getting a one piece mount sicne I want to get a cosine indicator. Looks like they have a way to mount it but once again wrong side
They have individual rings as well. Use the link and search the sight.
Here's the link to one set of regular ARC rings.
http://www.eurooptic.com/american-rifle-m10-34mm-scope-rings-32mm-126-height-high.aspx
As mentioned they have all sizes and heights. Call Europtic if you want. They can help.
http://www.eurooptic.com/american-rifle-m10-34mm-scope-rings-32mm-126-height-high.aspx
As mentioned they have all sizes and heights. Call Europtic if you want. They can help.
Very true. You don't tighten one side then go to the other. Tighten them like a car tire back and forth a little at a time. No issues keeping the reticle level.
I believe one of TPS's rings claim to fame is not canting the scope when tightening the rings. I believe you tighten one side then the other without canting.
http://8541tactical.com/TPS Ring install.php
http://8541tactical.com/TPS Ring install.php
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There isn't an engineer in the world that will tell you to tighten one side and then the other.
You start in the center of the pattern, snug a little, move to the other side and snug that one a little. If only one screw per side, just keep on snugging, alternating sides till you reach the proper torque value. Ideally, you will have an equal gap on both sides of the ring. The size of the gap is really not all that important to anyone not having OCD issues, so long as there is a gap.
On a ring with 4 screws you alternate both front and back and side to side.
6 screws, center screw on both sides then alternate sides and front/back to finish up.
On one piece mounts, some of which are bored to size with the caps screwed in place, you can more or less skip the side to side stuff but center out is still a good idea.
You start in the center of the pattern, snug a little, move to the other side and snug that one a little. If only one screw per side, just keep on snugging, alternating sides till you reach the proper torque value. Ideally, you will have an equal gap on both sides of the ring. The size of the gap is really not all that important to anyone not having OCD issues, so long as there is a gap.
On a ring with 4 screws you alternate both front and back and side to side.
6 screws, center screw on both sides then alternate sides and front/back to finish up.
On one piece mounts, some of which are bored to size with the caps screwed in place, you can more or less skip the side to side stuff but center out is still a good idea.
Ding, Ding, Ding!! We have a winner! If your reticle cants as you're tightening, you're not doing it right. There are loads of good videos online showing how to properly install and tighten rings.
I got a set of these to try a while back and they did work as advertised. My curiosity itch has been scratched and I don't need another pair. I feel better with more traditional setup. I prefer NF rings for my precision rifles anyway.
ARC M10 Rings , one screw for ring and one screw for rail interface . Why complicate things ? cost is on par with other high end rings .
Ted got it right !
ARC M10 hands down. I like Spuhr mounts but never could get zero rotation regardless of torque pattern.
might have to be if people don't realize how to install a scope without it rotating on them.
Alternating screws is simple enough to do and my Seekins rings were always great, but there is just something sweet about one and done on the ARCs. Both highly recommended rings, but I never did jump on the Spuhr band wagon, sold mine pretty quickly. ARCs are my go to now.
I try to torque incrementally too. So if final torque is 20 in-lb I will take everything to 10 in the patterns described above before going to 20.
Can someone post a picture of the bottom of ARC rings? Do they have any sort of recoil lug?
Can someone post a picture of the bottom of ARC rings? Do they have any sort of recoil lug?
I tried tightening the bolts down like people suggested above with my seekings rings. I just can't seem to get it right.
Sorry that I asked about something that could potentially get rid of additional errors in my scope reticle level.
You have to do a litttle at each screw. It takes a little getting used to but after doing it a few times it gets easier.
Also I only do one ring at a time as well. I do the rear ring until torqued and then go to the front and I can do it faster as the rear is holding the scope and it won't move now.
Also I only do one ring at a time as well. I do the rear ring until torqued and then go to the front and I can do it faster as the rear is holding the scope and it won't move now.
I have always found it a fussy little job to get all the screws perfectly torqued and have the crosshair perfectly vertical with the rifle. I dont think it was a dumb question at all.
I still use feeler guages to level and keep aligned while tightening in cross pattern. Little at a time and keep checking that feelers can still slide in and out with a little resistance. If you do it wrong they will be locked down and you know you goofed up.
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The Warne permanent attach are the easiest I have used, in the respect that they don't can't the reticle as I tighten them. If you move scopes around a lot its worth it to mount them in a ring that is easier to remove and replace, and take the time to properly tighten them in it the first time.
If it means anything, I'm planning to get the ARC rings for my next scope. I always hear great stuff bout' em'.
Ive been using TPS for years and they are very easy and come with instructions so you don't get cant or twist of your scope. Highly recommend TPS.
This thing is amazing. Turns most any mount with a flat bottom into a Sphur Takes seconds.
http://shop.brownells.com/optics-mo...-100-018-180&gclid=CKPG4Lq929MCFdu1wAod0ZMB7g
Takes seconds.http://shop.brownells.com/optics-mo...-100-018-180&gclid=CKPG4Lq929MCFdu1wAod0ZMB7g
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