What methods does everyone use for determining when to quit on a case or group of cases? I personally want to lean toward the conservative side...Also, I'm sure people have different methods for different case types as well such as the belted magnums. I am interested in both.
- Thread starter GreenMtnRidgeRunner13
- Start date
Re: Scrap your brass!
Okily dokily, thanks for the response. I haven't gotten in to annealing yet but have 5 loads on some 300wm brass. To a new reloader it seems a little like changing your oil once you hear a rod snap...
Okily dokily, thanks for the response. I haven't gotten in to annealing yet but have 5 loads on some 300wm brass. To a new reloader it seems a little like changing your oil once you hear a rod snap...
Re: Scrap your brass!
I've reloaded 30-06 case's with full load's 25 time's.
Take care of your brass and it'll take care of you.
I've reloaded 30-06 case's with full load's 25 time's.
Take care of your brass and it'll take care of you.
Re: Scrap your brass!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GrnMtnRidgeRunnr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Okily dokily, thanks for the response. I haven't gotten in to annealing yet but have 5 loads on some 300wm brass. To a new reloader it seems a little like changing your oil once you hear a rod snap... </div></div>
It's like this....buy good stuff to begin with. Don't abuse it, keep it clean, follow an annealing regimen. Other than that, when primer pockets start to loosen, or split necks start to appear, pitch 'em.
Ain't no magic number of times fired.......
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GrnMtnRidgeRunnr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Okily dokily, thanks for the response. I haven't gotten in to annealing yet but have 5 loads on some 300wm brass. To a new reloader it seems a little like changing your oil once you hear a rod snap... </div></div>
It's like this....buy good stuff to begin with. Don't abuse it, keep it clean, follow an annealing regimen. Other than that, when primer pockets start to loosen, or split necks start to appear, pitch 'em.
Ain't no magic number of times fired.......
Re: Scrap your brass!
+1 on what tripwire says for general shooting. I keep a separate stash of weight sorted low run-out brass that I keep track of for matches and such.
Your brass will tell you when its done... just watch for the signs.
+1 on what tripwire says for general shooting. I keep a separate stash of weight sorted low run-out brass that I keep track of for matches and such.
Your brass will tell you when its done... just watch for the signs.
Re: Scrap your brass!
I've been using Winchester, which it seems some others like and it isn't so expensive. I guess bottom line is that I should start annealing my brass. The only split necks I've had thus far came from the factory that way.
Thanks Code, but I have a long, long way to go before I start worrying about shooting in matches of any kind.
I've been using Winchester, which it seems some others like and it isn't so expensive. I guess bottom line is that I should start annealing my brass. The only split necks I've had thus far came from the factory that way.
Thanks Code, but I have a long, long way to go before I start worrying about shooting in matches of any kind.
Re: Scrap your brass!
time for the recycle bin if :
1- if you are splitting case necks'
2 - primer pockets don't hold primers
3 - ghost ring on case (above the sizing ring) telling me that head separation is coming.
4 - spot thinning on case necks that are more than 0.00025 to 0.00050 below nominal neck thickness
1) since I began annealing I have not seen number #1;
2) I don't run max pressure and have never seen #2 except with some early load development brass;
3) when I see about 20-25% of my current lot starting to look this way the whole lot goes into the bin. I start to see this on 7WSM brass in the 10 firings and above zone
4) when I see about 20-25% of my current lot fitting this description the whole lot goes into the bin. This tends to start showing up for my 7WSM brass after 10-15 firings or above zone
Jeffvn
time for the recycle bin if :
1- if you are splitting case necks'
2 - primer pockets don't hold primers
3 - ghost ring on case (above the sizing ring) telling me that head separation is coming.
4 - spot thinning on case necks that are more than 0.00025 to 0.00050 below nominal neck thickness
1) since I began annealing I have not seen number #1;
2) I don't run max pressure and have never seen #2 except with some early load development brass;
3) when I see about 20-25% of my current lot starting to look this way the whole lot goes into the bin. I start to see this on 7WSM brass in the 10 firings and above zone
4) when I see about 20-25% of my current lot fitting this description the whole lot goes into the bin. This tends to start showing up for my 7WSM brass after 10-15 firings or above zone
Jeffvn
Re: Scrap your brass!
Jeff, excellent post. That post in itself should be a sticky.
Jeff, excellent post. That post in itself should be a sticky.
Re: Scrap your brass!
If you oversize your brass compared to your chamber headspace and run high pressure loads you can cause insipient case head separation in as little as 2 firings. Manage this dimension correctly and run moderate pressures and you can make brass last 20-30 loadings in a bolt gun. Semis will always be harder on brass.
Body taper and shoulder angle also effect the rate at which the brass migrates forward thinning the web area.
No revelations here - just basics covered in any decent reloading book.
If you oversize your brass compared to your chamber headspace and run high pressure loads you can cause insipient case head separation in as little as 2 firings. Manage this dimension correctly and run moderate pressures and you can make brass last 20-30 loadings in a bolt gun. Semis will always be harder on brass.
Body taper and shoulder angle also effect the rate at which the brass migrates forward thinning the web area.
No revelations here - just basics covered in any decent reloading book.
Re: Scrap your brass!
I completely agree with the primer pocket opening up part of scrapping brass.
In the Neck Only (most of the time) sizing technique, I scrap my brass when it measures long enough to need a shoulder bump after only 2 reload cycles. This is generally in the 30+ reload cycle count. My new braas tends to go 6 reload cycles between shoulder bumps, mid-life brass in the 4 reloads per bump, and getting on in age brass in the 3s.
In addition, body cracks in more than 5% of the brass in a lot is grounds for scrapping the whole lot.
Once you get to 30+ reloads per brass, primers are costing more than the brass on a per shot basis anyways.......
The paper-clip trick (tool) is a good way to feel for Insipient Case Head separation before one lets go.
(*) in the intrest of NO sizers, I have gone 30 reload cycles on a single set of brass without annealing--loosing 2 cases due to body crack and 2 more due to ICHS without loosing a neck.
I completely agree with the primer pocket opening up part of scrapping brass.
In the Neck Only (most of the time) sizing technique, I scrap my brass when it measures long enough to need a shoulder bump after only 2 reload cycles. This is generally in the 30+ reload cycle count. My new braas tends to go 6 reload cycles between shoulder bumps, mid-life brass in the 4 reloads per bump, and getting on in age brass in the 3s.
In addition, body cracks in more than 5% of the brass in a lot is grounds for scrapping the whole lot.
Once you get to 30+ reloads per brass, primers are costing more than the brass on a per shot basis anyways.......
The paper-clip trick (tool) is a good way to feel for Insipient Case Head separation before one lets go.
(*) in the intrest of NO sizers, I have gone 30 reload cycles on a single set of brass without annealing--loosing 2 cases due to body crack and 2 more due to ICHS without loosing a neck.
Re: Scrap your brass!
Jeff: Holy great response Batman! Pictures and all I appreciate it.
From what I have heard other places 30 cycles on a case is pretty extreme, particularly if it's a belted magnum. I do go conservative on charges. Cost wise if I load one 8-10 times it gets me in to a range I can live with at several cents each. Of course more is better so I will watch for the signs y'all have described and keep burning powder.
Jeff: Holy great response Batman! Pictures and all I appreciate it.
From what I have heard other places 30 cycles on a case is pretty extreme, particularly if it's a belted magnum. I do go conservative on charges. Cost wise if I load one 8-10 times it gets me in to a range I can live with at several cents each. Of course more is better so I will watch for the signs y'all have described and keep burning powder.
Re: Scrap your brass!
I have a tight chamber 6 BR that I neck size Lapua 25 times so far. I also have a factory rem 223 using Black Hills brass that must be full sized every 3-4 firings and necks start splitting. Both loaded to roughly the same pressure Such are the mysteries of reloading
I have a tight chamber 6 BR that I neck size Lapua 25 times so far. I also have a factory rem 223 using Black Hills brass that must be full sized every 3-4 firings and necks start splitting. Both loaded to roughly the same pressure Such are the mysteries of reloading
Re: Scrap your brass!
I toss mine when the necks split or the primers do not stay in any more. I only bump the shoulder a little bit so I do not get case head seperations very often.
I toss mine when the necks split or the primers do not stay in any more. I only bump the shoulder a little bit so I do not get case head seperations very often.
