I just did the long rifles inc group buy and have been sanding my barrel channel to fit my larger barrel. It's a walnut factory remington stock and I'm thinking about filling the channel with devcon when I bed the action. Can I just put devcon on the bare wood or do I seal it with something first?
Gunsmithing Sealing a wood stock
- Thread starter Chad44
- Start date
Don't bed the entire barrel. Just do the first 1 1/2" or so in front of the recoil lug. I like to really rough up the surface of the stock where ever Devcon will go. I usually undercut everything by at least an 1/8" with all kinds of nooks and crannys. This does a couple of things: by undercutting you create a nice and thick base of Devcon and the nooks and crannys give a good mechanical lock of the Devcon to the stock.
Any exposed wood after bedding can be sealed with polyurethane, tung oil etc.
Any exposed wood after bedding can be sealed with polyurethane, tung oil etc.
I am going to put a layer of pipe tape on the underside of the barrel so that when cured it's still free floated. Make sense?
Not sure what pipe tape is but if you are referring to duct tape or similar it's not enough clearance, especially on a wood stock. A wood stock will expand/contract due to environmental factors such as temperature and humidity. The humidity here in CO is not as bad of a factor as say, Missouri but we do have the temperature swings.
Ok. So just any good wood sealer then?
Chad,
If you need to bed the forend of the wooden stock to clean up the top line make sure that you allow for enough barrel clearance. The attached pictures show 2 layers of 10 mil but now I use 2 layers of 20 mil pipe tape. You need the most clearance in the belly of the stock so you can add strips of tape below the stock line to add depth clearance but keep a tighter stock line. I would advise to bed from tang to forend tip in one shot. After taping, check fit before determining amount of Devcon needed for complete fill. Mix extra and clean up the ooze. You're going to wasted Devcon but you don't want to leave voids. For stock prep just sand and ruff surface for good adherence.
Hope this helps
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I like Waterlox sealer/finisher. Done everything from stocks to staircase treads with it. Penetrates into the wood like mineral spirits. First 2 coats soak all the way in. Tru-Oil and Tung Oil are easier on the finish coats
and also easier to touch up but as far as a tough finish, they don't come close. My staircase looks good after 10 yrs of kids and inside claw-marking furball Shepard Mix. Shit is so versatile you can even seal brick with it.
PCR, nice job. I use same tape and method for fixing stock with a different barrel profile.
and also easier to touch up but as far as a tough finish, they don't come close. My staircase looks good after 10 yrs of kids and inside claw-marking furball Shepard Mix. Shit is so versatile you can even seal brick with it.
PCR, nice job. I use same tape and method for fixing stock with a different barrel profile.
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That is nice PCR.
What is this pipe tape?
What is this pipe tape?
Pipe Tape here.... Pasco 9064 4" x 50 ft 20mil Pipe Wrap Tape
PCR, what's that you're using with the clamp to hold the action in the stock?
I turned a piece of AL to fit the raceway and that's just a piece of wood on top. Scope rail would have worked better.
Chad,
One of the old tricks with walnut stocks when glass bedding was to stiffen up the fore end with some metal under the barrel. When you're hogging out the action area for glass bedding, open up the barrel channel too (you can use aluminum pillars or just make 'pillars' of glass between the bottom metal and the action). Cut deep groves out from the bottom of the channel toward the bottom right and left corners of the fore end. Then glass some metal tubing or other stiffener in there when you bed the action. Old V-8 push rods used to work great, small, long and stiff. Some guys liked arrow shafts or just solid bars. Try to go from just in front of the recoil lug to just before the front swivel stud.
When you bed this way the interior (side against the action, barrel, magazine and floor plate) are sealed by the epoxy. The exterior is sealed by the finish of your choice. (Shiny BDL Varmint is a great contrast to all my matte tactical finishes).
One of the old tricks with walnut stocks when glass bedding was to stiffen up the fore end with some metal under the barrel. When you're hogging out the action area for glass bedding, open up the barrel channel too (you can use aluminum pillars or just make 'pillars' of glass between the bottom metal and the action). Cut deep groves out from the bottom of the channel toward the bottom right and left corners of the fore end. Then glass some metal tubing or other stiffener in there when you bed the action. Old V-8 push rods used to work great, small, long and stiff. Some guys liked arrow shafts or just solid bars. Try to go from just in front of the recoil lug to just before the front swivel stud.
When you bed this way the interior (side against the action, barrel, magazine and floor plate) are sealed by the epoxy. The exterior is sealed by the finish of your choice. (Shiny BDL Varmint is a great contrast to all my matte tactical finishes).
I like to use 2 part epoxy resin for sealing wood, it penetrates and is sandable. I use it on high wear knife scales in wood and G10 as well as a sealant for carbon fiber. You can pick it up or order it from fiberglass stores. And if you ever decide to paint over it, it will stick where as with oil you will have to remove it.
Chris
Benchmark Barrels
Chris
Benchmark Barrels
Use Air Cured Cerakote Micro Clear as a top coat after sanding and staining..... great stuff, very thin and chemical resistant so no worry about damaging the wood. Just do not use anything oil based or you will have adhesion problems.
If you are going to use Tung oil, get the real stuff, not the watered down stuff from Homedepot. You want 100% Tung oil. And be careful using it. It spontaneously combusts. So throw your rags in a metal coffee can or such.
