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Semicustom Tikka vs Custom Lone Peak Ti Razor

Raffy

Fair Weather Recreationalist
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 14, 2020
719
325
Southern Utah
Hi all. Ive been trying to decide what to do for about a year but cant decide because I want my cake but want to eat it too. (I like cake). Can I get some input from you guys?

End goal is a wicked cool and bughole accurate rifle for hunting and range for fun. I want the end result to be about 8.5 to 9 pounds bare including optic and muzzle break. Currently looking at 7 SAUM as my honey bear in either semi custom tikka or titanium Lone Peak in long action Razor($$$). I have a wishlist that seems difficult to combine and keep my weight down though (carbon fiber barrel, manners eh1a, prs t1 or 2, or AG composites adjustable hunter, or Gunwerks Magnus type stock with adjustable cheek on the comb with flush cups and stuff).

I am trying to decide if I will go semi custom and easy on the budget with something that I can start shooting now, or go balls to the walls custom and get what I want. Both are attractive to me for different reasons.
The end result is more attractive for the full custom, but the time involved saving is probably the biggest drawback as it might take a couple years to get it all together financially and wont be shooting anything for a while that way. The tikka route is easier on the budget, but only slightly more so in the end, because I am probably going to get similar components for both.

-Tikka-
pros--Build as you go that gets me shooting something now that helps refine my currently unrefined skills, comes with good trigger, usually very accurate, save money on reciever and trigger and some smith fees, will have a second barrel with available factory ammo (factory barrel that I could screw back on if I wanted to and kind of have a switchbarrel setup). I have heard that all things considered steel receivers are preferred. Close to flush detachable mag.

Neutral- as close as I can tell the tikka action is pretty light so I see little weight savings there going either way

Cons--Less flexible with weight savings on components. Not sure about desired freebore with prefits, have to give up weight savings on scope rings due to not being r700 compatible. Not what I ultimately am wanting in the very end (but maybe Ill fall in love and become a tikka fanboy). Less resale value.

-Lone Peak Custom-
Pros- Should be a sexy beast. R700 compatible components, can get slightly better trigger, get to choose my own freebore, resale holds better value (not planning on selling it but it should be considered), its a lone peak action which is very lovely. Precision tool. Everything would be backed by the gunsmith who builds it if something isnt right.

Neutral- is the titanium LPA Razor less weight overall in the end than a Tikka semi build? Im not needing to do a rail as long as I can get 20 moa rings or something like that. With the Tikka id have to get a rail and everything too so it probably is heavier after all is said and done. Any idea how much? Ive made charts with estimated weights of most major components but havent been able to nail down some of the little ones . (Just got my scope)

Con- incur much more cost than tikka with significant delay before I start shooting stuff, have to pay doubly so if I wanted a switchbarrel (tikka comes with a barrel)

Thanks for any input guys! I just need some outside perspective.

Disclaimer- I need 35mm rings as I have a 44mm mark 5 scope arriving in a couple days. Anyone have reccomendations for good lightweight rings with 20 or so moa built in that will mount direct to receiver for either action?
 
I obviously can't speak to your financial situation or to your timeline. But, I recently used an LPA Razor Ti for a build (proof carbon barrel & manners Eh-1 stock). I've only handled the Tikka's, and to be honest they are not for me (so there's my bias). The LPA Razor Build was exactly what I wanted, I spared no expense, and other than swapping barrels, I will have that rifle until I die.

In terms of precision, and assuming a like-for-like barrel and chamber job, the Tikka would probably be just as good as the LPA. The LPA Ti will be lighter, will have more aftermarket options, and will be worth more. Those things may or may not matter to you.

The cost difference between your two options is fairly large. I've been down the path where I had a "budget build" put together and then almost immediately started saving for the build that I actually wanted. If I would've just gone the more expensive route first, I would've actually been money ahead. If you're thinking that hard about the LPA, then save the extra money and buy what you want the first time. That's my armchair therapist evaluation, haha.
 
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The Tikka build will be a darn nice rifle that you can be shooting with likely in little time.

The custom LPA will be just that, a full in custom gun with all the satisfaction (and time waiting and $ cost) that comes with it.

If you will feel like the Tikka is a compromise and you’ll always wish you went custom - then skip that heartache do it right from the start.

With that said, I love my Tikka rifles. I built up a T3 Lite, and am very happy how it turned out. Started life as a stainless T3 Lite 30-06, I spun off the factory barrel, replaced with a 17” Carbon Six 6.5CM shouldered prefit barrel. 20MOA rail on top, KRG Bravo chassis. If I ever want to go back to factory barrel, I can drop it in a Boyd’s wood LA stock I have, factory long action bottom metal/magazine, and put the factory barrel back in.
 
I obviously can't speak to your financial situation or to your timeline. But, I recently used an LPA Razor Ti for a build (proof carbon barrel & manners Eh-1 stock). I've only handled the Tikka's, and to be honest they are not for me (so there's my bias). The LPA Razor Build was exactly what I wanted, I spared no expense, and other than swapping barrels, I will have that rifle until I die.

In terms of precision, and assuming a like-for-like barrel and chamber job, the Tikka would probably be just as good as the LPA. The LPA Ti will be lighter, will have more aftermarket options, and will be worth more. Those things may or may not matter to you.

The cost difference between your two options is fairly large. I've been down the path where I had a "budget build" put together and then almost immediately started saving for the build that I actually wanted. If I would've just gone the more expensive route first, I would've actually been money ahead. If you're thinking that hard about the LPA, then save the extra money and buy what you want the first time. That's my armchair therapist evaluation, haha.

Since you mentioned that the Tikka will be just as precise as the LPA if the chamber job is the same, I'm going to ask a question that I've been been thinking about for awhile.

Is precision mostly coming from the barrel and the chamber? Does having a "better" action help you with shooting tighter groups? Maybe having integral lugs and rail add to precision somewhat but I imagined that a factory action would have more slop on the bolt lug engagements and therefore add bullet runout or something like that.

I'm kind of on the same boat as op. I'm trying to decide if I should rebarrel my Tikka or drop money on a LP Fuzion. If all I had to do was throw on a good barrel on my Tikka and it would shoot just as precise as a custom action, I would rather save the money and drop it on ammo and practice.
 
I'm kind of on the same boat as op. I'm trying to decide if I should rebarrel my Tikka or drop money on a LP Fuzion. If all I had to do was throw on a good barrel on my Tikka and it would shoot just as precise as a custom action, I would rather save the money and drop it on ammo and practice.
Welcome to the ship THE HMS BASKETCASE! 🤣
 
Whats your weight on that bad boy?
LPA Ti L/A
24" Proof Sendero
Manners EH-1 with MCS-DBM mini chassis + Accurate Mag 5-rd
20 MOA Pic Rail + Hawkins Ultralight rings + Kahles k525i
Bipod pic rail + Atlas Gen2 CAL
TBAC Ultra 7

Total weight as listed is 11 pounds 8 oz on my scale.

I went with a Ti action & carbon barrel so that I could have dbm, suppressor, bipod, and a 30+oz scope and still be in that 11 pound range. I know that's not for everybody, but that is what I wanted. It did cost more, but wait time was only a couple months to have the barreled action spun up and cerakoted......and it's what I wanted.

Since you mentioned that the Tikka will be just as precise as the LPA if the chamber job is the same, I'm going to ask a question that I've been been thinking about for awhile.

Is precision mostly coming from the barrel and the chamber? Does having a "better" action help you with shooting tighter groups? Maybe having integral lugs and rail add to precision somewhat but I imagined that a factory action would have more slop on the bolt lug engagements and therefore add bullet runout or something like that.

I'm kind of on the same boat as op. I'm trying to decide if I should rebarrel my Tikka or drop money on a LP Fuzion. If all I had to do was throw on a good barrel on my Tikka and it would shoot just as precise as a custom action, I would rather save the money and drop it on ammo and practice.
I'm not a gunsmith, and I don't play the belly/benchrest type games. For me, I'm focused on practical sized targets for recreation and hunting (just for context of my answer to your question). In my experience, a quality barrel chambered by somebody that knows what they are doing will give you the greatest gains in terms of precision. Factory ammo is good nowadays, scopes are good, actions are good - we have never had it as good as we do now.

In terms of what makes an action better, you need to decide what features you want/need: 2-lug or 3-lug, 90* or 70* or 60* throw, what extractor, length of action, size of port, prefit availability, ability to swap bolt heads, etc., etc., etc. The lowest common denominator seems to focus on action "smoothness". To me, smoothness is a made up metric that is only discussed because action features are not understood. If the action feeds, extracts, and ejects, it's exactly smooth enough (that's probably just the engineer in me speaking).
 
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I've done the Tikka route with several rifles, and have a couple of custom builds as well. The tikka can be built with all the other components just as well as the Ti action, other than the trigger. That being said, you can dump some money on a Bix Tikka trigger, and it'll be as good as any R700 trigger you could get. The chambers and barrels can be made for want you want, so that's not an issue. Plenty of stock makers are on the tikka boat now, and if you want light, you could go as low as 23oz for a Wildcat. The tikka has a lower bolt throw, so it can be faster, and offer additional clearance to the scope over a 90deg throw. Spuhr makes a direct mount hunting mount for the T3x, not sure if they offer a 35mm though. Otherwise, a 2oz pic rail and the rings of your choice, easy.

It really boils down, do you want a full tilt custom or do you want a rifle that shoots the same with more money left in your pocket?
 
This may just throw another wrench into your plans, but the Mack Bro's stainless steel action just went live the other day. It's $575 for the action, recoil lug, and 20 MOA scope base. That's about $100 less than a Tikka, and it has an R700 footprint so it will be compatible with about every aftermarket accessory out there. If you are going to build off of a Tikka, you will likely get a new barrel new stock and new (or upgraded) trigger - so you're paying ~$675 for a factory Tikka action. I recently bought a TT Primary for ~$92 and last year bought a TT Special for $133. So you could have a 'custom' action, scope rail, recoil lug, and trigger for the same price as a Tikka action & trigger + trigger spring.

For whatever reason there seems to be a lot of sour grapes on the interwebs towards custom builds lately - especially on the hunting forums. For ME, nice shit is nice, and a budget alternative is not "just as good". A bowl of ice water behind a fan isn't as good as A/C, a camper van isn't as good as an Earth Roamer, a Vespa isn't as good as a BMW R1250GS....you get my point. Whether the differences matter or are worth it to YOU is a completely different matter.

Now, if your budget doesn't allow for a full custom then don't buy a full custom. Don't spend all your money on a rifle if you can't then afford a good scope, ammo, etc. If you don't currently own any rifles, don't sit around saving money - buy a Tikka and save for your build on the side. You can always sell off the Tikka if you decide to go with an LPA later, or build of the Tikka if you decide that is what YOU like. I think you've done your homework and listed the pros and cons well. Nobody can tell you what you like......but we can all try.
 
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All good points and the opinions and ideas are appreciated. I currently only have a cannon that is great for elk hunting, fun to shoot, but not what I would call a range gun so I dont look at it and think, "lets go shoot." I will go check out that mack bros action, that seems like a great price for a custom.
Im thinking this is essentially a hotdog conversation. ie, "do you want ketchup or mustard on your hotdog?" And the answer is yes, why not both?
I like the idea of both guns, and getting a more affordable custom or semi custom up and running sooner and saving for the more expensive one later as things progress in time, especially since Im not really shooting a ton now until I get something to shoot. Also Ill have my son up and coming in a few years so I can use that as a reason to build the second one and he can inherit the first one. I really like 'nice' things, so as long as the tikka functions right and I can find the right balance of components for weight and performance I think it will turn out how I hope through the years to come. And can upgrade along the way. The joy is in the journey right?
 
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I’m watching the how the Mack Bro. actions are working out in the big world before buying to possibly add to my Tikka rifles.
The price is very attractive as well as the parts interchangeability / availability.
 
Im attracted to the price but if I understood their product line it looks like they only make short actions. The downer is I am looking to build a 7 saum, which technically is a short action cartridge, buf benefits from longer than saami coal, so unfortunately I am going to have to pass unless I find they make medium or long actions too.
 
I'd go tikka, perfect length for the 7 saum. Hells canyon makes a saum/wsm magazine, or MDT makes a 3.56 aics mag for it. Plenty of prefit options these days, factory trigger is great for a factory trigger. Spend the money you save on better glass.
 
I'd go tikka, perfect length for the 7 saum. Hells canyon makes a saum/wsm magazine, or MDT makes a 3.56 aics mag for it. Plenty of prefit options these days, factory trigger is great for a factory trigger. Spend the money you save on better glass.
yup a whole lot of this

as much as id like a medium Caprock from WTO
 
yup a whole lot of this

as much as id like a medium Caprock from WTO
Its cheaper if you just go with the original manufacturer last I checked. Not by much, but some. Im not sure if fhere are any additional perks going with WTO instead of Lone Peak. Do you know of any differences or perks of using WTO instead?
 
Hi all. Ive been trying to decide what to do for about a year but cant decide because I want my cake but want to eat it too. (I like cake). Can I get some input from you guys?

End goal is a wicked cool and bughole accurate rifle for hunting and range for fun. I want the end result to be about 8.5 to 9 pounds bare including optic and muzzle break. Currently looking at 7 SAUM as my honey bear in either semi custom tikka or titanium Lone Peak in long action Razor($$$). I have a wishlist that seems difficult to combine and keep my weight down though (carbon fiber barrel, manners eh1a, prs t1 or 2, or AG composites adjustable hunter, or Gunwerks Magnus type stock with adjustable cheek on the comb with flush cups and stuff).

I am trying to decide if I will go semi custom and easy on the budget with something that I can start shooting now, or go balls to the walls custom and get what I want. Both are attractive to me for different reasons.
The end result is more attractive for the full custom, but the time involved saving is probably the biggest drawback as it might take a couple years to get it all together financially and wont be shooting anything for a while that way. The tikka route is easier on the budget, but only slightly more so in the end, because I am probably going to get similar components for both.

-Tikka-
pros--Build as you go that gets me shooting something now that helps refine my currently unrefined skills, comes with good trigger, usually very accurate, save money on reciever and trigger and some smith fees, will have a second barrel with available factory ammo (factory barrel that I could screw back on if I wanted to and kind of have a switchbarrel setup). I have heard that all things considered steel receivers are preferred. Close to flush detachable mag.

Neutral- as close as I can tell the tikka action is pretty light so I see little weight savings there going either way

Cons--Less flexible with weight savings on components. Not sure about desired freebore with prefits, have to give up weight savings on scope rings due to not being r700 compatible. Not what I ultimately am wanting in the very end (but maybe Ill fall in love and become a tikka fanboy). Less resale value.

-Lone Peak Custom-
Pros- Should be a sexy beast. R700 compatible components, can get slightly better trigger, get to choose my own freebore, resale holds better value (not planning on selling it but it should be considered), its a lone peak action which is very lovely. Precision tool. Everything would be backed by the gunsmith who builds it if something isnt right.

Neutral- is the titanium LPA Razor less weight overall in the end than a Tikka semi build? Im not needing to do a rail as long as I can get 20 moa rings or something like that. With the Tikka id have to get a rail and everything too so it probably is heavier after all is said and done. Any idea how much? Ive made charts with estimated weights of most major components but havent been able to nail down some of the little ones . (Just got my scope)

Con- incur much more cost than tikka with significant delay before I start shooting stuff, have to pay doubly so if I wanted a switchbarrel (tikka comes with a barrel)

Thanks for any input guys! I just need some outside perspective.

Disclaimer- I need 35mm rings as I have a 44mm mark 5 scope arriving in a couple days. Anyone have reccomendations for good lightweight rings with 20 or so moa built in that will mount direct to receiver for either action?
I have two semi custom Tikka builds and they're the only way I'll go for a med length setup.

If you want a custom action I'd check out the light weight SS defiance AnTi, I had a Ti action recently and hated it, nothing but problems. It wasn't a LP though.
Ti stretches 3x more than steel, you'll have heavy bolt lift much sooner than you would with a standard action.
Some Smith's won't even work with a Ti action, and that list seems to be growing
 
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Its cheaper if you just go with the original manufacturer last I checked. Not by much, but some. Im not sure if fhere are any additional perks going with WTO instead of Lone Peak. Do you know of any differences or perks of using WTO instead?
Alpine Cut on stainless action
Medium length DBM
 
Has anyone gotten their hands on the Defiance AnTi yet? The price to weight ratio is very intruiging for sure.

I have heard some others who didnt like titanium actions, but of all the posts and reviews I have read, I have never heard one bad thing about any Lone Peak action, titanium included. In fact mostly people who will never sell it because they like it so much!

Also, if going Tikka, what caliber would ya'll recommend as the doner? Im thinking any magnum would be fine but the mag length being what it is, what would be closest to a seated out 7 saum? I think coal is going to be close to 3.1-3.2 but not sure right now.
 
As someone who converted a 300wsm to 25 saum on my tikka, I can say the saum case it fat enough that it won't work with factory mags unless modified. i had to sand out the inside of the mag to make the saum case fit. it's a decent amount fatter than a WSM. Otherwise, any mag bolt face would do, although a LA mag case would be best because then you won't have to buy another bolt stop kit.
 
Does the 25 saum share the same case diameter as the 7 saum? Any recommendation for which long action magnum? I was thinking 300 win mag but thats not based on any first hand knowledge
 
yes, same case diameter, I actually used 7 saum brass to make my 25 saum brass. I'd go with 300wm, 7mmRM, I think those are really the only 2 widely available tikka LA actions to choose from.