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Fieldcraft Sewing machines?

High Binder

Resident Tribologist
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 18, 2008
495
24
Occupied Colorado
What are you guys using for sewing machines? Is anyone using a serger or overlock type of machine?

I'd like to pick up a machine and have always had a sewing machine (old school Singer) but I'd like something that can handle the type of textiles we (here on the hide) like to sew.

I'd appreciate any ideas/recommendations.
 
Re: Sewing machines?

I use a Consew 206RB it is considered an industrial machine

binding edges is ok for home machines but once you start in on multiple layers of 1000D Cordura or webbing it will get difficult quickly

69 weight thread is the lightest you should consider with V92 being my personal choice

most gear being bound with webbing or 1" tape negates the overlock or sergers

A good heavy duty straight stitch walking foot machine is where it is at.

John
 
Re: Sewing machines?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LngRngShtr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use a Consew 206RB it is considered an industrial machine

binding edges is ok for home machines but once you start in on multiple layers of 1000D Cordura or webbing it will get difficult quickly

69 weight thread is the lightest you should consider with V92 being my personal choice

most gear being bound with webbing or 1" tape negates the overlock or sergers

A good heavy duty straight stitch walking foot machine is where it is at.

John </div></div>

Wow V92 is pretty heavy duty, are you doing a lot of weight bearing webbing or something to that effect? Great info thanks for the response.
 
Re: Sewing machines?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sinister</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Singer 31-15 for light and general stuff.

Consew 206-RB3 for Cordura and equipment. </div></div>

Do you think your Singer could handle 2 layers of Cordura and tape so four layers all together? Or would that be pushing your luck? Thanks for the response!
 
Re: Sewing machines?

Shouldn't be a problem -- thicker than that and you'll probably want a medium duty walking foot machine. You need to use the appropriate needle size.

The 31-15 was the WWII GI rigger, tailor, and bath and laundry unit machine and is still one of the more popular parachute rigger and gear-making machines because they're dirt-simple and durable as hell.

Nylon 69 (MILSPEC Ticket E) thread is what you want to use for equipment.
 
Re: Sewing machines?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sinister</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Shouldn't be a problem -- thicker than that and you'll probably want a medium duty walking foot machine. You need to use the appropriate needle size.

The 31-15 was the WWII GI rigger, tailor, and bath and laundry unit machine and is still one of the more popular parachute rigger and gear-making machines because they're dirt-simple and durable as hell.

Nylon 69 (MILSPEC Ticket E) thread is what you want to use for equipment. </div></div>

Sinister, thanks for the info. The 31-15 looks a lot like what I already have and grew up with (see pic below) but I don't know what model my Singer is or if it'll handle what the 31-15 can.. Any ideas?

singer.jpg
 
Re: Sewing machines?

That's a household machine. Good steel gears but the motor's kind of weak. You can probably use a canvas or jeans needle and maybe it'll feed Ticket E but you'll have to monkey with it.

I doubt you'll be happy doing serious gear on it.
 
Re: Sewing machines?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sinister</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That's a household machine. Good steel gears but the motor's kind of weak. You can probably use a canvas or jeans needle and maybe it'll feed Ticket E but you'll have to monkey with it.

I doubt you'll be happy doing serious gear on it. </div></div>

10-4 on that, the motor does feel kinda weak sometimes. I'll start shopping for a more serious model like the Consew, I'd rather have too much power than not enough and I would like to be able to sew in some thin foam between layers of Cordura.

What kind of stuff are you and others making? I want to make a few things here and there and I think the wife wants to be able to sew some things but she's never sewn in her life.
 
Re: Sewing machines?

I'm a parachute rigger so I've done all my own harness, webbing, and case work for the last 36 years.

I upgraded a nasty old Nomex carrier to 500 denier Multicam. It holds Large E-SAPI plates front-and-rear:

68zazb.jpg


 
Re: Sewing machines?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sinister</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm a parachute rigger so I've done all my own harness, webbing, and case work for the last 36 years.

I upgraded a nasty old Nomex carrier to 500 denier Multicam. It holds Large E-SAPI plates front-and-rear:

68zazb.jpg


</div></div>

Damn that looks awesome, good job. I'd like to get to that level some day. Are you using commercial patterns or making your own?

Thanks for all the info!
 
Re: Sewing machines?

Eyeballing or tracing the pattern off other equipment. It's not difficult once you've got the eye for it.
 
Re: Sewing machines?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sinister</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Eyeballing or tracing the pattern off other equipment. It's not difficult once you've got the eye for it. </div></div>

OK, thanks for all your help and info, I really appreciate it.
 
Re: Sewing machines?

Consew 206-RB3 is what I use,if you can get it under the walking foot it will sew it.Make sure you get one with a servo motor you will thank yourself later.
 
Re: Sewing machines?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: High Binder</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LngRngShtr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use a Consew 206RB it is considered an industrial machine

binding edges is ok for home machines but once you start in on multiple layers of 1000D Cordura or webbing it will get difficult quickly

69 weight thread is the lightest you should consider with V92 being my personal choice

most gear being bound with webbing or 1" tape negates the overlock or sergers

A good heavy duty straight stitch walking foot machine is where it is at.

John </div></div>

Wow V92 is pretty heavy duty, are you doing a lot of weight bearing webbing or something to that effect? Great info thanks for the response. </div></div>

Was a Sailmaker for 10 years made a few harnesses and lifting straps for boat yards, lots of offshore sailing gear and racing sails.

thread weight is dependent on cloth weight heavier for heavier look at a leather holster vs. web gear or say a set of BDUs which are thinner if you sew leather with 69 or 92 weight thread it could act like a check book perforation and cause the material to fail.

69 is probably fine for most web gear, 2 or 3 layers cordura and a layer or 2 of webbing just make sure the stitch is balanced and the knot is buried in the cloth, bartack and Box "X" stitch everything.

I generally use 92 for most of my projects as that is what the we spec'd for offshore gear , old habits die hard.

John
 
Re: Sewing machines?

My slings are all made on Consew 206 RBs. I have several. If you can find an older Japan made one it will last forever. Look around I bought one for 200.00, as new off Craigslist and paid over a grand for another one new.

Keep it clean. Keep it oiled. Use good US made thread and it will last
 
Re: Sewing machines?

I sometimes refer to mine as "the really heavy SEIKO"

yep they make more than watches..
 
Re: Sewing machines?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LngRngShtr</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> just make sure the stitch is balanced and the knot is buried in the cloth,
</div></div>

John, I've only ever made basic stuff from patterns (clothes/etc.) so some of that went right over my head. Does "balanced" mean that the stitch is parallel to the edge and doesn't wave around? Is there a good trick to burying the knot or is it just a matter of tying it as close to the fabric as possible. Would you ever put a drop of epoxy or the like over the knot?
 
Re: Sewing machines?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tactical</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My slings are all made on Consew 206 RBs. I have several. If you can find an older Japan made one it will last forever. Look around I bought one for 200.00, as new off Craigslist and paid over a grand for another one new.

Keep it clean. Keep it oiled. Use good US made thread and it will last </div></div>

Oh cool, thanks for the info. I just checked out your website, looks like you've come up with a lot of cool slings.
 
Re: Sewing machines?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SIERRAWHISKEY</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Consew 206-RB3 is what I use,if you can get it under the walking foot it will sew it.Make sure you get one with a servo motor you will thank yourself later. </div></div>

Does the servo make it so you can make individual stitches and stop right where you want to stop or it it a speed control issue?
 
Re: Sewing machines?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: High Binder</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LngRngShtr</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> just make sure the stitch is balanced and the knot is buried in the cloth,
</div></div>

John, I've only ever made basic stuff from patterns (clothes/etc.) so some of that went right over my head. Does "balanced" mean that the stitch is parallel to the edge and doesn't wave around? Is there a good trick to burying the knot or is it just a matter of tying it as close to the fabric as possible. Would you ever put a drop of epoxy or the like over the knot? </div></div>

the top thread and bottom thread interlock to make the stitch the point where they interlock should be "buried" in the cloth if the thread tension is too loose or tight it will pull the interlocking to one side of the cloth and leave what feels like raised bumps and the stitch will pull out easier.

http://www.squidoo.com/SewingMachineTension
 
Re: Sewing machines?

I started with a Brother plastic home machine that would choke on four layers of 1000D. I upgraded to a 1970's Union Special that I picked up on Craigs List. It's a straight stitch with no reverse. It is an evil beast. If Stephen King wrote a book about a sewing machine, this would be the star. It uses a 3/4 Hp clutch motor with enough ass to pull my hand right through. Parts are a bitch to get and the case leaks oil.

After I began to run into the limitations of that machine it got stuck in the corner as a backup. I now run a REX 11-155R walking foot. I would prefer unison feed, but the Rex was close and cheap. It's got reverse and I converted it to servo.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: High Binder</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Does the servo make it so you can make individual stitches and stop right where you want to stop or it it a speed control issue? </div></div>

The main advantage to the servo for those of us doing gear is that it is only "on" when you press the pedal. When you aren't stitching it isn't pulling much juice at all. Yes, you have a little more control with a servo, but I didn't have much problem with my clutch in the Union Special. You learn to feather it, like when you are parking a manual transmission car. The servo does offer the advantage of being able to dial the speed down quite a bit without changing pulleys or any of that. Mine is set at about 1/2 of max speed right now because I am rarely running a stitch for more than 12 inches. If I was doing upholstery or something large I would probably crank it back up.
 
Re: Sewing machines?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LngRngShtr</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: High Binder</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LngRngShtr</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> just make sure the stitch is balanced and the knot is buried in the cloth,
</div></div>

John, I've only ever made basic stuff from patterns (clothes/etc.) so some of that went right over my head. Does "balanced" mean that the stitch is parallel to the edge and doesn't wave around? Is there a good trick to burying the knot or is it just a matter of tying it as close to the fabric as possible. Would you ever put a drop of epoxy or the like over the knot? </div></div>

the top thread and bottom thread interlock to make the stitch the point where they interlock should be "buried" in the cloth if the thread tension is too loose or tight it will pull the interlocking to one side of the cloth and leave what feels like raised bumps and the stitch will pull out easier.

http://www.squidoo.com/SewingMachineTension </div></div>

Oh, I've had nightmares with that but didn't know the nomenclature. My problem with my current machine is when the thread is too loose and I end up with a bird's nest of thread. Thanks John!
 
Re: Sewing machines?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LoneWolfUSMC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I started with a Brother plastic home machine that would choke on four layers of 1000D. I upgraded to a 1970's Union Special that I picked up on Craigs List. It's a straight stitch with no reverse. It is an evil beast. If Stephen King wrote a book about a sewing machine, this would be the star. It uses a 3/4 Hp clutch motor with enough ass to pull my hand right through. Parts are a bitch to get and the case leaks oil.

After I began to run into the limitations of that machine it got stuck in the corner as a backup. I now run a REX 11-155R walking foot. I would prefer unison feed, but the Rex was close and cheap. It's got reverse and I converted it to servo.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: High Binder</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Does the servo make it so you can make individual stitches and stop right where you want to stop or it it a speed control issue? </div></div>

The main advantage to the servo for those of us doing gear is that it is only "on" when you press the pedal. When you aren't stitching it isn't pulling much juice at all. Yes, you have a little more control with a servo, but I didn't have much problem with my clutch in the Union Special. You learn to feather it, like when you are parking a manual transmission car. The servo does offer the advantage of being able to dial the speed down quite a bit without changing pulleys or any of that. Mine is set at about 1/2 of max speed right now because I am rarely running a stitch for more than 12 inches. If I was doing upholstery or something large I would probably crank it back up. </div></div>

I can just see a movie where your sewing machine is like Christine stitching up your fingers and throwing broken needles at you.
Thanks for the info on servos too!
 
Re: Sewing machines?

Where would you gents recommend picking up a machine and where you can get replacement parts that has great customer service.
 
Re: Sewing machines?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Who Dat</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Where would you gents recommend picking up a machine and where you can get replacement parts that has great customer service.</div></div>

I have a 206RB5 Consew that I would consider selling. I have upgraded my other Consew, I would give you a good deal on the head, but you would have to get a table. I can throw in a servo motor with it.
 
Re: Sewing machines?

I think it is called sew right or something like that out of Wisconsin that I got the machine from along with parts and supplies.