For my JP CTR-02 .223 with 22" bbl for target (max 600 yrds) and varmint shooting? I am looking at Razor HD vs Z5.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Rifle Scopes SFP or FFP ?
- Thread starter Bache Kermooni
- Start date
Re: SFP or FFP ?
Just one thing to keep in mind. With a FFP your reticle changes size with the power. When it is dim out and low power settings it can be hard to see the reticle with out illumination.
I was hunting coyotes with my FFP NF 3.5-15 and I had it on the lowest power and when I went to take a shot I had to really look for the reticle. I had enough time so I turned on the illumination and I was fine but it can be hard to see if you are in a rush.
Just one thing to keep in mind. With a FFP your reticle changes size with the power. When it is dim out and low power settings it can be hard to see the reticle with out illumination.
I was hunting coyotes with my FFP NF 3.5-15 and I had it on the lowest power and when I went to take a shot I had to really look for the reticle. I had enough time so I turned on the illumination and I was fine but it can be hard to see if you are in a rush.
Re: SFP or FFP ?
in FFP(first focal plan) no change in mil dot value
for example : when you are shooting to close distance if you shoot long distance by variable power magnification (8---24) no change in milldot value ,For example, when hitting a target at 500 meters by 6 power magnification 3 mildot above the target when magnification change to 24 power again you should same mildot above the target
This benefit is not in the SFP(second focal plan)
in FFP(first focal plan) no change in mil dot value
for example : when you are shooting to close distance if you shoot long distance by variable power magnification (8---24) no change in milldot value ,For example, when hitting a target at 500 meters by 6 power magnification 3 mildot above the target when magnification change to 24 power again you should same mildot above the target
This benefit is not in the SFP(second focal plan)
Re: SFP or FFP ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rpk762</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just one thing to keep in mind. With a FFP your reticle changes size with the power. When it is dim out and low power settings it can be hard to see the reticle with out illumination.
I was hunting coyotes with my FFP NF 3.5-15 and I had it on the lowest power and when I went to take a shot I had to really look for the reticle. I had enough time so I turned on the illumination and I was fine but it can be hard to see if you are in a rush.
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Thanks. I know the math and physics of optics and SFP vs FFP. I should have been more specific when asking my question. I am more concerened with the practical uses and potential problems - especially when hunting. Your feedback is great. I am considering an illuminated one. How do you like your NF? What reticle? Is 15x good enough for PDs and 600 yard target shooting?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rpk762</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just one thing to keep in mind. With a FFP your reticle changes size with the power. When it is dim out and low power settings it can be hard to see the reticle with out illumination.
I was hunting coyotes with my FFP NF 3.5-15 and I had it on the lowest power and when I went to take a shot I had to really look for the reticle. I had enough time so I turned on the illumination and I was fine but it can be hard to see if you are in a rush.
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Thanks. I know the math and physics of optics and SFP vs FFP. I should have been more specific when asking my question. I am more concerened with the practical uses and potential problems - especially when hunting. Your feedback is great. I am considering an illuminated one. How do you like your NF? What reticle? Is 15x good enough for PDs and 600 yard target shooting?
Re: SFP or FFP ?
If you're shooting at known distances and/or you have a range finder, the SFP optic will be all that you need. On the other hand, if you'll be using your reticle to range with at unknown distances then the FFP optic will be the best option.
If you're shooting at known distances and/or you have a range finder, the SFP optic will be all that you need. On the other hand, if you'll be using your reticle to range with at unknown distances then the FFP optic will be the best option.
Re: SFP or FFP ?
If youre ranging objects at long range the scope would be at max power anyway and thats where the reticle is calibrated at on my vortex pst its SFP.
If youre ranging objects at long range the scope would be at max power anyway and thats where the reticle is calibrated at on my vortex pst its SFP.
Re: SFP or FFP ?
When those yotes show up, there is no time to calculate distance. I have a Leica LRF 1200 with which I measure distances to various "points of interest" as soon as I set up and commit to memory. I also guage the wind and its direction. I then build a picture in my head as to which dot to use at what point and what the windage hold off should be. So taking a quick shot would be "Math-free". I am currently using a Nikon Buckmaster 6-18x with MilDot on my Ruger 77 MKII Varmint/Target. But I have to put and keep it on 12x or 18x or else my calculations are off. I missed a very large coyote (gray pelt) at 410 yards in SD last Dec. My scope was on 18x and I thought it was on 12x 8-O
When those yotes show up, there is no time to calculate distance. I have a Leica LRF 1200 with which I measure distances to various "points of interest" as soon as I set up and commit to memory. I also guage the wind and its direction. I then build a picture in my head as to which dot to use at what point and what the windage hold off should be. So taking a quick shot would be "Math-free". I am currently using a Nikon Buckmaster 6-18x with MilDot on my Ruger 77 MKII Varmint/Target. But I have to put and keep it on 12x or 18x or else my calculations are off. I missed a very large coyote (gray pelt) at 410 yards in SD last Dec. My scope was on 18x and I thought it was on 12x 8-O
Re: SFP or FFP ?
I like all of the NF scopes I have. I am using the mil dot reticle in my FFP scope. I would have rather gotten a MOA reticle but it was so cheap I could not pass it up. So it is Mil reticle and Moa knobs.
As to the 15X power in the heat of the day mirage can be a little much and you may have to set your power back to 10 or less. This of course depends on conditions. I have shot PD well past 600yds with a fixed 10X scope and very thick reticle. I would think 15X would be fine as long as mirage was not horable.
I like all of the NF scopes I have. I am using the mil dot reticle in my FFP scope. I would have rather gotten a MOA reticle but it was so cheap I could not pass it up. So it is Mil reticle and Moa knobs.
As to the 15X power in the heat of the day mirage can be a little much and you may have to set your power back to 10 or less. This of course depends on conditions. I have shot PD well past 600yds with a fixed 10X scope and very thick reticle. I would think 15X would be fine as long as mirage was not horable.
Re: SFP or FFP ?
I have enjoyed my FFP scope experience. I only have one but I like to be able to use Mils no matter what.
I have enjoyed my FFP scope experience. I only have one but I like to be able to use Mils no matter what.
Re: SFP or FFP ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rpk762</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I like all of the NF scopes I have. I am using the mil dot reticle in my FFP scope. I would have rather gotten a MOA reticle but it was so cheap I could not pass it up. So it is Mil reticle and Moa knobs.
As to the 15X power in the heat of the day mirage can be a little much and you may have to set your power back to 10 or less. This of course depends on conditions. I have shot PD well past 600yds with a fixed 10X scope and very thick reticle. I would think 15X would be fine as long as mirage was not horable.
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Thanks. Great info. How do you compensate for the wind without windage markings on the reticle? Especially at 600 yards? Windage knob? Hold over (to the side)?
As you can tell I am not used to taking long shots in open spaces. Where I have always hunted deer with a shotgun, 75 yards throught the woods is a LONGGGGG shot.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rpk762</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I like all of the NF scopes I have. I am using the mil dot reticle in my FFP scope. I would have rather gotten a MOA reticle but it was so cheap I could not pass it up. So it is Mil reticle and Moa knobs.
As to the 15X power in the heat of the day mirage can be a little much and you may have to set your power back to 10 or less. This of course depends on conditions. I have shot PD well past 600yds with a fixed 10X scope and very thick reticle. I would think 15X would be fine as long as mirage was not horable.
</div></div>
Thanks. Great info. How do you compensate for the wind without windage markings on the reticle? Especially at 600 yards? Windage knob? Hold over (to the side)?
As you can tell I am not used to taking long shots in open spaces. Where I have always hunted deer with a shotgun, 75 yards throught the woods is a LONGGGGG shot.
Re: SFP or FFP ?
When shooting at long distance without any method for hold off I almost always dial it in. When a person takes a shot at let’s say 600yds and you miss. If you are close it is easy to hold off and shoot again. Sometimes they will let you get a second shot or a third and sometimes nope if you miss they are gone. A lot of PD shooting is trial and error. Not all towns are the same. Some will let you shoot over 1,200rds in one evening and others will not allow you to shoot more than 10 shots in one day.
The scope on my 308 a Mill dot reticle and it has dots every mill on the level part of the cross hair. I have always tried to purchase scopes with mill dots or some kind of hash system in it for ranging and hold off. I do prefer to get moa knobs and moa reticle but that is something each person needs to decide for them self.
I use a few methods for shooting PD. If the shooting is hot and fast I just hold off. This can work very well if you have a rifle you know. My standard rifle is a flattop AR-15 with a fixed 10X Tasco super sniper with mill dot reticle. I have about a 400yd zero if I remember correctly. I have put well over 7,000 rds down range with it so I am pretty good at holding over or under and to the side for wind.
My scopes that are “hunting” type scopes they are mainly used for the closer ranges. Hold off is used in these are they are very hard to adjust so I do not adjust them. These rifles will hardly ever see ranges past 400yds.
When shooting is slow I mainly use the dial it in method as the shots are normally longer than normal. The dogs that will be up are usually way out there and close ones are very few and far between. I usually shoot my 6mmbr or my 22-250. I have shot many dogs with the 308 but I like the splat that the smaller calibers provide. These three rifles all have scopes that have tactical knobs and reticles I can use to range of hold off in case of a miss for a rapid follow up shot. I do use a laser range finder for these shots and a wind meter so I know what the wind is doing at my position.
When I shoot PD I shoot for body count. I try to shoot as many of them as I can. I do not try to get into the varmint hunters long range clubs. The more you can shoot the more pups they will have and pups are about as smart as a rock.
When shooting at long distance without any method for hold off I almost always dial it in. When a person takes a shot at let’s say 600yds and you miss. If you are close it is easy to hold off and shoot again. Sometimes they will let you get a second shot or a third and sometimes nope if you miss they are gone. A lot of PD shooting is trial and error. Not all towns are the same. Some will let you shoot over 1,200rds in one evening and others will not allow you to shoot more than 10 shots in one day.
The scope on my 308 a Mill dot reticle and it has dots every mill on the level part of the cross hair. I have always tried to purchase scopes with mill dots or some kind of hash system in it for ranging and hold off. I do prefer to get moa knobs and moa reticle but that is something each person needs to decide for them self.
I use a few methods for shooting PD. If the shooting is hot and fast I just hold off. This can work very well if you have a rifle you know. My standard rifle is a flattop AR-15 with a fixed 10X Tasco super sniper with mill dot reticle. I have about a 400yd zero if I remember correctly. I have put well over 7,000 rds down range with it so I am pretty good at holding over or under and to the side for wind.
My scopes that are “hunting” type scopes they are mainly used for the closer ranges. Hold off is used in these are they are very hard to adjust so I do not adjust them. These rifles will hardly ever see ranges past 400yds.
When shooting is slow I mainly use the dial it in method as the shots are normally longer than normal. The dogs that will be up are usually way out there and close ones are very few and far between. I usually shoot my 6mmbr or my 22-250. I have shot many dogs with the 308 but I like the splat that the smaller calibers provide. These three rifles all have scopes that have tactical knobs and reticles I can use to range of hold off in case of a miss for a rapid follow up shot. I do use a laser range finder for these shots and a wind meter so I know what the wind is doing at my position.
When I shoot PD I shoot for body count. I try to shoot as many of them as I can. I do not try to get into the varmint hunters long range clubs. The more you can shoot the more pups they will have and pups are about as smart as a rock.
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