Suppressors Sharpening S30v

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My new knife came in just the other day, a Surefire EW-08 in S30v. I really like the knife, but the factory edge is nothing to write home about.

That being said, I started to do some research on proper sharpening, and it seems that I might be in a bit over my head. I read a lot about using sandpaper on a belt sander, paper wheels, stropping, etc.

It seems that with the hardness of S30v, I might just be best off to send my knife out to get sharpened.

Any advice?
 

Bacarrat

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  • Jan 22, 2007
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    Re: Sharpening S30v

    Practice with cheaper knives. IMO, S30V isn't that much harder to sharpen compared some of the carbon steels out there. I personally use a EdgePro. It's pretty easy to use and gives you a consistent angle when you are sharpening. The highest grade stone I have is a 320 grit for my Edge Pro and it does a good enough job for about 99.9999% of the thing I want to cut with. My friend has a paperwheel and it's no comparison. You can pop the hairs off your arm without even touching the skin. But you have to be somewhat proficient at holding the blade at the same angle. Something I am horrible at.
     

    birddog762

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    Re: Sharpening S30v

    get the GATCO which is a improved version of the original "lansky"brand.(the sharpening stones are wider and safer) i sharpen all the steels with my lansky which i have had a long time.if youre near the KTP they normally have both,or use your google fu.
     

    CANAVAR

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    Re: Sharpening S30v

    I use both the Lansky and Edgepro Apex and both are easy to use and can leave a razors edge.
     

    bm11

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    Re: Sharpening S30v

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: birddog762</div><div class="ubbcode-body">get the GATCO which is a improved version of the original "lansky"brand.(the sharpening stones are wider and safer) i sharpen all the steels with my lansky which i have had a long time.if youre near the KTP they normally have both,or use your google fu. </div></div> Kittery is about a 2 hour ride, but maybe I'll make it. Sometimes it is tough to leave the Trading Post without buying a gun though. When in Rome.
     

    16 Bore

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    Re: Sharpening S30v

    Send it to this guy...

    Lorenz

    He'll make sure the right angles are correct. Basically all you'll ever do when he's done is touch it up with a ceramic rod. He can make a butter knife into a scalpel.
     

    Mo_Zam_Beek

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    Re: Sharpening S30v

    If you use a Sharp Maker - put a stick on level on the back of the knife spine for a consistent angle.


    Good luck
     

    Inline6

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    Re: Sharpening S30v

    I use a Warthog sharpener love it. Takes no time to sharpen my s30v blades.
     

    bm11

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    Re: Sharpening S30v

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 16 Bore</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Send it to this guy...

    Lorenz

    He'll make sure the right angles are correct. Basically all you'll ever do when he's done is touch it up with a ceramic rod. He can make a butter knife into a scalpel. </div></div>That's basically what I want. I would like to attain scalpel sharpness, without the apparent learning curve required to attain it. It seems like from my reading that S30V will hold that edge for quite some time, so I wouldn't be opposed to having someone else sharpen it for me.
     

    16 Bore

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    [/quote]That's basically what I want. I would like to attain scalpel sharpness, without the apparent learning curve required to attain it. It seems like from my reading that S30V will hold that edge for quite some time, so I wouldn't be opposed to having someone else sharpen it for me. [/quote]

    S30V is the cat's ass...

    They recently moved...well, across the street anyway... I imagine he is running full bore by now. I've got 6 new blades that I'm going to have him sharpen.
     

    Rookie

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    Re: Sharpening S30v

    Just used my Lansky fine stone to sharpen a new Zero Tolerance knife with S30V steel. Razor sharp in less than 5 minutes.
     

    icehouse

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    Re: Sharpening S30v

    even though it may seem difficult, you should never let that discourage you from learning something new. after all. if you needed it sharpened and you were forced to be self-reliant, what would you do if you did not learn in the past about how to sharpen it.
     

    16 Bore

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    Re: Sharpening S30v

    Sharpening isn't necessarily the problem, establishing the correct angles can be though. That's what Lorenz does. Once it's right, maintaining it is gravy......
     

    TXTransplant

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    Re: Sharpening S30v

    I wouldn't sweat any of the particular equipment you need. Lansky is great but it doesn't take much practice to get just as good doing it freehand. S30V is a bit more resistant than some other steels, but it's totally do-able.

    In the end, a man needs to buy a stone or two and learn how to sharpen knives. Get a big double sided India stone, or two big diamond stones, and get practicing. You can do it in front of the TV. It isn't hard, it takes less practice that you think. Spend $40 on some big stones and you'll figure it out quick. My standard is does it shave my arm hair easily, and with a couple hours of practice, spread out over a week or two or four, you'll get to that level easy.
     

    Rookie

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    Re: Sharpening S30v

    Guess I lied about sharpening that Zero Tolerance knife. The new smaller knife has 154CM stainless steel, which is softer than carbon S30V. The 154CM sharpened quickly on a 25 degree angle.

    I do agree with what someone said about figuring out the correct angle. The printed material that comes with the Lansky somehow made me think that 22-25 degrees will work for a good big field knife. I have however found that most good, big field knives come with 30 degree edges, and a medium grit stone at that angle works best, and only takes a few minutes.

    Learned this after working on a big Kabar. The big soft blade lets you see the results of what you're doing in a hurry. I had been working for a while on a 25 degree angle and nothing much was happening. Switched to 30 degrees, and it got sharp in just a few minutes.

    Applied what I learned to sharpening the big Zero Tolerance, CPM3V steel, and it did the trick. 30 degrees for the big field knives is the key. Having said that, I realize that a 25 degree angle is going to cut better than a 30. And, you can take advantage of a good steel like 30V by going to 25, 22, or even 20 degrees. The problem comes if the blade comes from the factory at 30. You spend an hour sharpening before you even get to the actual edge because you are changing the angle, removing alot of steel.

    I think the reasoning for going with 30 degrees on the big knives is that you have so much leverage with a big knife that you can cut what you need to without having a razor edge. The downside is that all that leverage can also be used to ruin the edge, so they go with the super-durable but less sharp 30 degrees. I have found that the medium sized folding pocket knives with thick blades usually come with 25 degree edges, and the smaller ones with 20 to 22 degrees.

    The following website was a good source for me for learning about the different kinds of blade steels and their properties.

    http://www.zknives.com/knives/articles/knifesteelfaq.shtml

    According to that site, the S30V carbon steels are so wear resistant that you can still get a durable 22 to 25 degree edge on a large knife. At least thats my interpretation. Some day when I have alot of time, I may change the 30 degree edge on my big CPM3V blade to a 25, just to see how truely sharp it can be.

    I'm still learning.
     

    Rookie

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    Re: Sharpening S30v

    I will also say this to knife manufacturers:

    It would be nice if all knives came with the type of steel and edge angle printed on the blade. At least put it in the printed material that comes with the knife. It sure would make sharpening/care/maintenance easier.
     

    Quarter Horse

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    Re: Sharpening S30v

    S30V used to have a reputation for not holding a hairpopping edge for long but was able to hold a great working edge through a lot of work. I bought my first S30V knife ten or fifteen years ago and found this to be true with it and subsequent knives of the same material. New hardening/tempering techniqes may have changed this but I bought another S30V last year and it is the same.

    I just use a diamond steel to slightly turn the edge and they seem to keep going forever. Oh yeah, be careful the stuff is a little brittle.
     

    dega37

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    Re: Sharpening S30v

    +1 on Spyderco Sharpmakers and sharpening angle. The sharpening angle is by far the most important aspect when sharpening a blade so you have to know what angle your blade is and adjust accordingly. Spyderco offers a 30 degree (15 each side) or 40 (20 each side) and flat (traditional) if you place the stones in the back. The steeper the angle of the blade to the stone, the more you will be sharpening the edge, but you have to be consistent on each side so I can't stress enough the angle. A narrower angle is sharper but will dull and nick quicker, so if you plan on being tough on the blade use more of a utility edge : 40 degrees. With S30V you will need diamond stones if you have to make drastic adjustments to the blade i.e. you want to change the angle or you nicked it.
    Oh and +1 on learning how to sharpen
     

    bm11

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    Re: Sharpening S30v

    So it seems the sharpmaker has gotten the most votes? I suppose I could try it, and send it out if I'm not happy with the result.

    By the way guys- I am not entirely sharpening ignorant. I have done a lot with stones and even a bit with high grit paper, just never have gotten into machines with specific angles, or paper wheels, etc.
     

    bm11

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    Re: Sharpening S30v

    Watched those vids, thanks for posting them.
     

    Jpalmer88

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    Another vote for the Sharp Maker. I've sharpened far more wear resistant steels with it.
     

    pappy42

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    Re: Sharpening S30v

    S30V is easily sharpened or "touched up" with either diamond or conventional stones.

    Two things determine success or failure: Maintaining a constant (correct)angle for each pass over the sharpening medium. Use a moderate to light pressure of the blade edge to the sharpening medium.

    These days I lean toward diamond sharpeners because they require no oil and clean up with Dawn and water.

    If you are still reluctant to "jump in" with your new blade; practice on an older one first. It really is eay.