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Sheetrock Hole Repair Question

Jethro3898

Jethro3898

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 24, 2011
769
716
Dothan, AL
Guys,

I’ve found myself in a little bit of a pickle. My wife and I just moved into our new house we built and I was hanging a mirror she purchased for the powder bath.


The mirror has those metal “keymod” looking mounting tabs on the back of it. In fact the frame for the mirror is steel and the tabs are welded to the frame. The tabs are the ones that are made to fit perfectly over the head of a screw and then slide down to bear on the shank of the screw (I’m sure you’ve seen them).

Anyways, like a lot of crap nowadays, the little metal “keymod” tabs are not at the same elevation on the back of the mirror. Because of this, if I simply threw some Sheetrock anchors into the wall a horizontal line, the mirror would be unlevel, and it would drive me bananas (I’m a obsessive about things being level and plumb).

Long story short: To accommodate for the screwed up mounting tabs on the mirror, I had to mark a datum line on the wall off the centerline of where I wanted the mirror and lay out the holes for the Sheetrock anchors above and below the datum line the proper amount to ensure that the mirror would be perfectly level when it rested on the screws. Well....I literally put the “high” anchor low and the “low” anchor high, thus making the mirror way out of level.....I literally made the problem of the misplaced mounting tabs even worse.

My question is: can I fill the holes in the Sheetrock with spackle, compound, etc. and re-drill the holes and install new sheetrock anchors very close to where I drilled the original holes? The issue is: where the new anchors “need” to be would be encroaching the existing hole. For this reason, whatever I patch the hole with needs to be as strong as (or better yet, stronger than) virgin sheetrock, so I don’t have to worry about the new anchor falling out.

To answer, the obvious question: Yes. I can raise the mirror an inch or so from where I wanted it to be to avoid the existing holes if I absolutely have to.....I just liked where I wanted it to be and would prefer to keep it there. No. There are no studs where the mounting tabs on the mirror are at, hence the use of Sheetrock anchors.

I appreciate the responses....especially from anyone who has deal with this same situation before.
 
Is there room to leave the anchors there and put new ones on the opposite side of the line? Another solution is leave the original anchors you messed up, and create a buffer using picture hanging wire to level out one side that sits high. Drill a tiny hole in the back of the metal keymod bracket, fish it through, make it the length you need to level. Or just dremel the keymod thing taller.
 
Last edited:
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Sure you can patch it. No the patch won't be load bearing.

When I've done similar, you need to back the hole somehow. If it's a big hole (like a repair behind, moving a switch, hole punched in wall) then the best is to glue a chunk of plywood, or something, behind the wall.

For your situation, I'd think about patching and carefully drilling out then installing an expanding bolt of some sort instead of a direct drywall anchor. Only use a toggle bolt or other type of single-axis behind-wall anchor IF you can be sure the behind-wall bit doesn't bear on the repair. Otherwise get the 4-leaf type expanding style so it grabs more wall.


Other idea: The best thing for a lot of mounting is ditching the original mount and making your own french cleat (google it). Unlikely here I bet. But it makes me think that if you have some clearance (if the mounting bit is slightly inset) then you could use the two existing holes to mount a small 1/4" bit of plywood to the wall. Then use any old screws into the plywood. No repair needed, and the plywood can just be un-bolted in years future when you ditch the mirror.
 
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A couple of options.

1. Epoxy the holes, sand until flat.
2. Cut the area of sheetrock out and put blocking back there such as a 2x4 at minimum attached to studs. I normally do 2x6 or 2x8 in bathrooms. Then you don’t have to worry about it.
3. Remove the hanging hooks use PL530 and glue the mirror to wall so it will stay. I glue larger mirrors to the wall so they won’t fall.
4. Spackle the small holes and hope for the best.
5. Use a larger drywall expansion anchor.
6. Tear the whole bathroom out and remodel the whole thing.
 
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Depending if its a newer home(lightweight drywall((air bubbles)) or older. Newer home at least 4” away from old anchor holes, make new holes. Think up, or down.

Old drywall 2.5” minimum.

plaster? Patch with plaster and put holes where ya want.
 
If you can make these anchors work they are amazing........takes a 3/4" hole. but one of them is rated for 300lbs. shear in 3/8" drywall.........several options available.......

www.wingits.com

MASTER Anchor™ Super Duty Fastener with Offset Faceplate

• Rated up to 300 lbs. (in shear) • Handles vector and vibratory forces • Never loosens • Water-resistant and fire-retardant • Patented worldwide
www.wingits.com www.wingits.com
 
I did something similar in one of my guest bathrooms at our new house like 4 years ago. Almost the exact same situation. Pissed me off so bad lol. I have room to move up and likely will at some point but it pissed me off so bad I just left it and avoid going in there as much as possible. Lol. But I like this picture hanging wire idea. Hard part will be getting the wire just the right length to make it level.

PS I hate that kind of shit. Like I really really hate hanging stuff. Seems like what should take 5 minutes winds up taking me hours.
 
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Hobo Hilton said:
Hmmm... Have not heard anyone asking / mentioning the studs in the wall.... Can you anchor to the studs?
Click to expand...
See next-to-last sentence in the OP.

To the OP - I like the picture wire solution if the anchors you already installed are solid.
 
SilentStalkr said:
So, someone explain this pic wire thing to me a little more.
Click to expand...

Two ways to do it. Let's say the mirror is hanging 1/2" too low on the left side.

  1. Drill a small hole on right side bracket so the loop can stay captured. Make yourself a little wire loop for the right side and use the loop to rest on the screw in the wall. Now it matches the drooping bracket height.
  2. Drill holes in both brackets (assuming it can't capture a wire). Run a wire across the entire thing. Hang it on the uneven screws mounted in the drywall. The friction from the wire will allow you to rotate the mirror level
 
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Jethro3898 said:
Thanks guys for all of the help.
I have a game plan with the picture wire.
I will get it handled.

I freaking HATE making mistakes on stuff like this. Irritating as crap!
Click to expand...

I've been remodeling my house for the past few years and every project has gone wrong in multiple ways the first attempt. I feel like I scored a hole in one if it only needs a minor second pass. The last few days I've been installing ceiling LED pancake lights. Well, the light color turned out awful. Room has yellow green tint like a 2000's action movie. Now I'm ripping them out and putting in remodel cans for lightbulbs. Hooray...
 
Is there enough meat on the keyhole brackets to take a Drexel tool and even them out?
Rich
 
Lay a nice thick bead of gorilla construction glue on the back of the mirror.

Press to wall.

You will have a small amout of time that you can make minor adjustments to level and plumb.

Hold for 15 mins while glue cures enough to hold mirror.

Hope you never need to move it again.
 
Akin to the itch I get when people say to use WD40 for everything: I hate it when people say "Gorilla Glue."

First, which one? "Gorilla" is a brand not a product:
Screen Shot 2021-05-20 at 10.54.20.png

And so on... 55 products.

Then, I am not at all sure any of their products are better than actual industrial grade versions. I used to use MD polyurethenate glues, but they lost their distribution or something, so the one I am using now is Akfix PA370.


And yeah, I TOTALLY see people use the wrong glue, lube, tape, etc because brand names get confused with product names.
 
Just use some drywall screws... hellooo! They work for absolutely everything on homeowner projects from drywall repair to joist hangers and truss gussets.
 
KZP said:
I've been remodeling my house for the past few years and every project has gone wrong in multiple ways the first attempt. I feel like I scored a hole in one if it only needs a minor second pass. The last few days I've been installing ceiling LED pancake lights. Well, the light color turned out awful. Room has yellow green tint like a 2000's action movie. Now I'm ripping them out and putting in remodel cans for lightbulbs. Hooray...
Click to expand...
You know they make LED lights with 4 different light settings. You can change them in the back of the light. They are more expensive but that’s all I recommend. Homeowners can change the light color depending on what hues they want from the paint.
 
JJMoody said:
Just use some drywall screws... hellooo! They work for absolutely everything on homeowner projects from drywall repair to joist hangers and truss gussets.
Click to expand...
Please tell me your not using sheetrock screws to hang joist hangers. Shear on them is a hell of a lot different then a 10D. They are brittle. That’s a recipe for disaster.
 
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SouthFork said:
You know they make LED lights with 4 different light settings. You can change them in the back of the light. They are more expensive but that’s all I recommend. Homeowners can change the light color depending on what hues they want from the paint.
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I bought. The LED quality itself is just bleh no matter what color I chose. I finished installing cans today, now on the hunt for some higher CRI LED bulbs.
 
KZP said:
That's exactly what I bought. The LED quality itself is just bleh no matter what color I chose. I finished installing cans today, now on the hunt for some higher CRI LED bulbs.
Click to expand...
Two options. Put up 2000s action movie posters around the room and call it finished. Repaint it. Lots of paint looks different in the store. You have to do 3x6 area to get a solid feel of the paint. I always recommend buying a couple of different colors in quarts or smaller if you can get it. Testing takes time but then you have the color you want.
 
SouthFork said:
Two options. Put up 2000s action movie posters around the room and call it finished. Repaint it. Lots of paint looks different in the store. You have to do 3x6 area to get a solid feel of the paint. I always recommend buying a couple of different colors in quarts or smaller if you can get it. Testing takes time but then you have the color you want.
Click to expand...

I've got a few colors painted on the walls in large areas to sample. The lighting color was so off that if I compensate the wall color for use with the lighting at night, during the day it will look completely different. A nice subtle blue grey in poor LED lighting would look super blue in natural light.

What's frustrating is that I used to buy the GE Reveal series bulbs and they looked great. I have a few dozen elsewhere in the house. It's been a year since I last bought them. For some reason they changed the color tone from a neutral temperature to orange/yellow, they wash out the colors instead of enhancing them.
 
1) Patch the holes
2) Buy a piece of wood 1 x (whatever) x 1/4" strip
3) Cut 1x strip to whatever width will fit to the wall studs and/or fit to the width of the mirror.
4) Mount the 1x strip
5) Attach whatever mount to work with the mirror.

Wife bought a HUGE painting for one of our living room walls. All the work is hidden, wall will be fixed SO much easier than than drywall screws, and it's not going to fail/pull out the sheetrock.
 
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Fill your "wrong holes with match sticks of toothpicks, covered in wood glue. pound them in there when it gets tight. Break off then sand them flush. Spackle, Sand and Paint. Wait until set, and re-drill the holes in the proper places. Simplest fix.
 
Easy Sand 45, mix up a little bit to a thin paste about like runny peanut butter, shove it in the hole, wait 3 hours drill anywhere you want. it's not a moisture cure, but chemical, in 45 mintues it will get hot and hard as any other sheetrock and with a couple hours slightly harder. Biggest deal is make sure that the hole is clean to allow it to adhere to the existing rock. I would almost drill it out to 3/8ths to make sure and use a gas tube to mash it into the walls good before smearing the rest on and making it flat. They sell little containers of this stuff, just never had a hole that small lol...EasySand 45
832418CC-6D78-4942-B26F-219A0E2CBF6B_1_105_c.jpeg
 
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Put this rifle.....

1621622914342.png


www.snipershide.com

🔥 RoAsT Me 🔥

I actually shoot this rifle. $54 R770 and a $50 rebate. Can you believe loading the bipod broke my plastic stud. Let’s hear it. let’s see if rich guys are as funny as they think they are
www.snipershide.com www.snipershide.com

behind the sheetrock than drill into it and use it as an anchor to secure the mirror.

The plastic may provide enough pull out strength to support it.

To be on the safe side maybe use two of these rifles as wall anchors.

If you can get the screw into a scope ring you will have max pull out.
 
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shoobe01 said:
Akin to the itch I get when people say to use WD40 for everything: I hate it when people say "Gorilla Glue."

First, which one? "Gorilla" is a brand not a product:
View attachment 7629641
And so on... 55 products.

Then, I am not at all sure any of their products are better than actual industrial grade versions. I used to use MD polyurethenate glues, but they lost their distribution or something, so the one I am using now is Akfix PA370.


And yeah, I TOTALLY see people use the wrong glue, lube, tape, etc because brand names get confused with product names.
Click to expand...
Dont get too itchy there scratchy...

Gorilla Construction glue/adhesive.

Key word is bold word.
 
KZP said:
I've got a few colors painted on the walls in large areas to sample. The lighting color was so off that if I compensate the wall color for use with the lighting at night, during the day it will look completely different. A nice subtle blue grey in poor LED lighting would look super blue in natural light.

What's frustrating is that I used to buy the GE Reveal series bulbs and they looked great. I have a few dozen elsewhere in the house. It's been a year since I last bought them. For some reason they changed the color tone from a neutral temperature to orange/yellow, they wash out the colors instead of enhancing them.
Click to expand...
Grays are the hardest colors to nail. I have had homeowners pick the gray and the painter paint it and it comes out looking like baby blue or a dark blue gray. People are pissed that it wasn’t the color they picked. I then have to take the paint swatch that they picked and show them on the paperwork that they approved that it’s the same number code on the paint in the bucket. I always get a few different grays and paint the walls in different areas on a full remodel and then have them think about it before the whole thing gets done. Even though this is a PItA it has made a lot happier clients as normally the paint they picked is not the one they go with and normally pick mine or the painters suggestions.
 
pmclaine said:
Put this rifle.....

View attachment 7630488

www.snipershide.com

🔥 RoAsT Me 🔥

I actually shoot this rifle. $54 R770 and a $50 rebate. Can you believe loading the bipod broke my plastic stud. Let’s hear it. let’s see if rich guys are as funny as they think they are
www.snipershide.com www.snipershide.com

behind the sheetrock than drill into it and use it as an anchor to secure the mirror.

The plastic may provide enough pull out strength to support it.

To be on the safe side maybe use two of these rifles as wall anchors.

If you can get the screw into a scope ring you will have max pull out.
Click to expand...

😂😂😂😂
 
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