I recently put a new scope on my varminter. There wasn't enough elevation to get me on target at twenty five (25) yards. I was still 4" low. I got the windage fairly close but had to max it out as well. I reset the turrets to approximate middle and tried again with the same result. I took the scope off and tried an old tasco I have. I managed to get it zeroed at 200yds but maxed out the turret again with very little adjustment left for windage. What are your thoughts on shimming? I already shimmed the rear base but I'm afraid of stressing the tube too much by shimming the rings for windage. Any other solutions? One piece base maybe?
Rifle Scopes Shimming scopes
- Thread starter jambau
- Start date
Re: Shimming scopes
Burris Signature rings with offset inserts. You'll able to get your mechanical zero back as well as some extra elevation.
Burris Signature PDF
John
Burris Signature rings with offset inserts. You'll able to get your mechanical zero back as well as some extra elevation.
Burris Signature PDF
John
Re: Shimming scopes
You might try Burris Signature rings. They come with plastic inserts which are offset, and you can put the inserts in in whatever orientation (straight up and down, or with the thick portion a little to one side, etc.) is needed to correct both elevation and windage. The rings come with .010" offset inserts, but you can buy .015" and .020" inserts separately. You can use, for example, a +0.020" on one ring, and a -0.020" on the other ring, for a total of .040". These inserts do not dent the scope because they rotate within the rings. With rings that do not have these, shimming a 2 piece base more than .025" will probably cause some damage to your scope.
If the quality of these is not sufficient, then you can use a one piece base, and then you can shim it as much as you want, within reason. Obviously, if you go too far, the objective bell will be touching the barrel, which is not acceptable.
edit: I see jrob beat me to it, as I was writing this, but I posted this anyway, because of the additional information.
You might try Burris Signature rings. They come with plastic inserts which are offset, and you can put the inserts in in whatever orientation (straight up and down, or with the thick portion a little to one side, etc.) is needed to correct both elevation and windage. The rings come with .010" offset inserts, but you can buy .015" and .020" inserts separately. You can use, for example, a +0.020" on one ring, and a -0.020" on the other ring, for a total of .040". These inserts do not dent the scope because they rotate within the rings. With rings that do not have these, shimming a 2 piece base more than .025" will probably cause some damage to your scope.
If the quality of these is not sufficient, then you can use a one piece base, and then you can shim it as much as you want, within reason. Obviously, if you go too far, the objective bell will be touching the barrel, which is not acceptable.
edit: I see jrob beat me to it, as I was writing this, but I posted this anyway, because of the additional information.
Re: Shimming scopes
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jrob300</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Burris Signature rings with offset inserts. You'll able to get your mechanical zero back as well as some extra elevation.
Burris Signature PDF
John </div></div>If you have to shim a scope, these rings are the way to go.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jrob300</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Burris Signature rings with offset inserts. You'll able to get your mechanical zero back as well as some extra elevation.
Burris Signature PDF
John </div></div>If you have to shim a scope, these rings are the way to go.
Re: Shimming scopes
Try swoping the bases. Move the rear one to the front, and front to the rear. And/or rotate the bases 180 degrees. I have had this problem before on 2 pieces bases, and this fixed it.
The second (and Redneck method) would be to take an aluminum can, and cut out a shine to go under the base in the front. this will increase the height slightly, to get you a 100 yard zero. But swoping out the bases should solve it. Try that first.
Try swoping the bases. Move the rear one to the front, and front to the rear. And/or rotate the bases 180 degrees. I have had this problem before on 2 pieces bases, and this fixed it.
The second (and Redneck method) would be to take an aluminum can, and cut out a shine to go under the base in the front. this will increase the height slightly, to get you a 100 yard zero. But swoping out the bases should solve it. Try that first.
Re: Shimming scopes
I can't switch bases as they have different screw spacing and I can only rotate the front base. Rotating the rear base leaves it hanging off the rear of the receiver. I've shimmed the base for elevation and I'm going to try rotating the front base tomorrow and take it to the range. Next attempt will be one piece base and the burris rings.
I can't switch bases as they have different screw spacing and I can only rotate the front base. Rotating the rear base leaves it hanging off the rear of the receiver. I've shimmed the base for elevation and I'm going to try rotating the front base tomorrow and take it to the range. Next attempt will be one piece base and the burris rings.
Re: Shimming scopes
I may be wrong, but I don't think you can shim 2 piece bases. You could a one piece. If you just shim one it will put your scope in a bind.
Jim
I may be wrong, but I don't think you can shim 2 piece bases. You could a one piece. If you just shim one it will put your scope in a bind.
Jim
Re: Shimming scopes
first of all what is the receiver? second of all, get a 1 piece base to match it. try again and post the results. It sounds like you are on the right track. what scope are you working with, aside from the Trashco?
first of all what is the receiver? second of all, get a 1 piece base to match it. try again and post the results. It sounds like you are on the right track. what scope are you working with, aside from the Trashco?
Re: Shimming scopes
I had considered some of the plastic ring inserts to "cushion" the scope against uneven scope ring pressures. The gun is a heavy varmint rig in .223 rem so recoil resistance isn't a big factor. This would allow me to use less torque while tightening the rings. I don't know. At this point I'm about to stop looking for "redneck" solutions and get new bases and rings.Just trying to avoid the expense I guess.
I had considered some of the plastic ring inserts to "cushion" the scope against uneven scope ring pressures. The gun is a heavy varmint rig in .223 rem so recoil resistance isn't a big factor. This would allow me to use less torque while tightening the rings. I don't know. At this point I'm about to stop looking for "redneck" solutions and get new bases and rings.Just trying to avoid the expense I guess.
Re: Shimming scopes
put a 20 MOA base on it, Burris Xtreme rings (since you are wanting to keep cost down) and rock on
put a 20 MOA base on it, Burris Xtreme rings (since you are wanting to keep cost down) and rock on
Re: Shimming scopes
What Burris scope are you using?? If it is one with 1/8moa adjustments a few thousandths difference in finishing/polishing bases and receiver etc can use up your scope adjustments quick on a 1" tube with 1/8moa clicks.
What Burris scope are you using?? If it is one with 1/8moa adjustments a few thousandths difference in finishing/polishing bases and receiver etc can use up your scope adjustments quick on a 1" tube with 1/8moa clicks.
Re: Shimming scopes
Problem solved. I Shimmed the rear base and filed one side of the base to shift the ring to the side. Then I mounted a piece of barstock in the rings with lapping compound. I lapped it until the ring surface was near 100%. I got it zeroed at 100yds with most of the windage and vertical left in the turrets.Thanks for the suggestions.
Problem solved. I Shimmed the rear base and filed one side of the base to shift the ring to the side. Then I mounted a piece of barstock in the rings with lapping compound. I lapped it until the ring surface was near 100%. I got it zeroed at 100yds with most of the windage and vertical left in the turrets.Thanks for the suggestions.
