I need a simple chronograph to get some velocities for load development. I'm looking at the Shooting Chrony Beta or F-1. Anyone have any experience with these?
Shooting Chrony Chronographs?
- Thread starter Domestique
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Re: Shooting Chrony Chronographs?
I have a Beta Chrony. Works great for me, except indoors under fluorescent lights. Don't know how accurate it is, as I don't have any other chronographs to compare to, but all the data I've collected with it for 10mm development, as well as 308 and 45-70 has been corroborated by real world results. I considered others like the PACT that have infrared screens so aren't affected by lighting, but they cost twice as much. Mine is easy as pie to set up and take down, which was a big plus, and hasn't had any malfunctions. Looking into getting the printer for it so I don't have to write down the numbers.
ETA: I've been using the Beta for about 2.5 years now, maybe 1000 rounds over mine.
I have a Beta Chrony. Works great for me, except indoors under fluorescent lights. Don't know how accurate it is, as I don't have any other chronographs to compare to, but all the data I've collected with it for 10mm development, as well as 308 and 45-70 has been corroborated by real world results. I considered others like the PACT that have infrared screens so aren't affected by lighting, but they cost twice as much. Mine is easy as pie to set up and take down, which was a big plus, and hasn't had any malfunctions. Looking into getting the printer for it so I don't have to write down the numbers.
ETA: I've been using the Beta for about 2.5 years now, maybe 1000 rounds over mine.
Re: Shooting Chrony Chronographs?
I have a Beta. No complaints here. I have used it outside in sun and shade but not under flourescent lights. Easy to use and having the display back at your shooting positon is a big plus.
RT
I have a Beta. No complaints here. I have used it outside in sun and shade but not under flourescent lights. Easy to use and having the display back at your shooting positon is a big plus.
RT
Re: Shooting Chrony Chronographs?
I have the F1, very good
the important thing is to use always the same chrono each time, that's why I decided to buy my own chrony. and stop borowing friends ones
I have the F1, very good
the important thing is to use always the same chrono each time, that's why I decided to buy my own chrony. and stop borowing friends ones
Re: Shooting Chrony Chronographs?
I have a Beta and it works fine. The user interface is pretty antiquated though. 3 buttons do everything, and it's not easy to remember how it all works. I have to get the instructions out every time.
I have a Beta and it works fine. The user interface is pretty antiquated though. 3 buttons do everything, and it's not easy to remember how it all works. I have to get the instructions out every time.
Re: Shooting Chrony Chronographs?
My Shooting Chrony has worked for 8-10 years without failure. The sky screens are yellow and brittle but they keep on working. I have no experience with any of the higher $$ units so I can't comment on the absolute accuracy of the Chrony vs Pact, CED, et al. However on a relative basis when comparing one load vs another the Chrony continues to deliver repeatable results.
My Shooting Chrony has worked for 8-10 years without failure. The sky screens are yellow and brittle but they keep on working. I have no experience with any of the higher $$ units so I can't comment on the absolute accuracy of the Chrony vs Pact, CED, et al. However on a relative basis when comparing one load vs another the Chrony continues to deliver repeatable results.
Re: Shooting Chrony Chronographs?
My beta works fine. I've never used it indoors though.
I accidentally shot the sky screen poles, and knocked a sensor loose, they fixed it up and refurbed it pretty quick, ... it was a good experience with them.
My beta works fine. I've never used it indoors though.
I accidentally shot the sky screen poles, and knocked a sensor loose, they fixed it up and refurbed it pretty quick, ... it was a good experience with them.
Re: Shooting Chrony Chronographs?
I've had no troubles with my F1. Like already mentioned, the key is consistency. Always use the same unit, spaced the same distance from muzzle every time.
I've had no troubles with my F1. Like already mentioned, the key is consistency. Always use the same unit, spaced the same distance from muzzle every time.
Re: Shooting Chrony Chronographs?
I have the Beta model and it seems to give decent results. The MVs I have recorded using it match dead on to the elevation adjustments predicted using those MV values, so I'm happy with it. One thing to always remember...
Don't shoot the Chrony!!!!!
I have the Beta model and it seems to give decent results. The MVs I have recorded using it match dead on to the elevation adjustments predicted using those MV values, so I'm happy with it. One thing to always remember...
Don't shoot the Chrony!!!!!
Re: Shooting Chrony Chronographs?
I've got an ancient Alpha that I stole from my dad. It's always worked great for me, the numbers it spits out agree with my buddy's CED chronograph and with the actual observed results in the field.
I've got an ancient Alpha that I stole from my dad. It's always worked great for me, the numbers it spits out agree with my buddy's CED chronograph and with the actual observed results in the field.
Re: Shooting Chrony Chronographs?
I have a beta and I think the averages are good, but the sd and es numbers may be a little off. I think my actual results at 1000 indicate that I have a tighter ES than the Chrony indicates.
I have a beta and I think the averages are good, but the sd and es numbers may be a little off. I think my actual results at 1000 indicate that I have a tighter ES than the Chrony indicates.
Re: Shooting Chrony Chronographs?
I have the Chrony F-1,works great, good results from pistol up to 300WM.
I have the Chrony F-1,works great, good results from pistol up to 300WM.
Re: Shooting Chrony Chronographs?
If you get the chrony, some tips:
Always use fresh batteries.
Run a string of .22lr and compare velocities to what the box suggests, this will give you an idea of your margin of error.
Keep your muzzle away from the sensors, 10'-15' is usually adequate.
Neighboring muzzle brakes/flash hiders can skew your readings.
Write down your velocity figures on paper and work out your ES/SD math yourself. Erroneous data in your sets will screw up the computations.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Scope height above bore--just because you have a line of sight, doesn't necessarily mean your bore is clearing the box!! Try to put your rounds at least 6" above the sensors.. </span>
If you get the chrony, some tips:
Always use fresh batteries.
Run a string of .22lr and compare velocities to what the box suggests, this will give you an idea of your margin of error.
Keep your muzzle away from the sensors, 10'-15' is usually adequate.
Neighboring muzzle brakes/flash hiders can skew your readings.
Write down your velocity figures on paper and work out your ES/SD math yourself. Erroneous data in your sets will screw up the computations.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Scope height above bore--just because you have a line of sight, doesn't necessarily mean your bore is clearing the box!! Try to put your rounds at least 6" above the sensors.. </span>
Re: Shooting Chrony Chronographs?
Not sure of the model I have off hand, it is a Chrony, it is the most basic one though, and they are all the same except the extras I think. I'd get the one with the remote and a little extra memory though, that memory would be real nice so I don't have to record every shot after the shot. I wish they'd make one that plugs into a Ti-83/89/200 calculator though.
How well they work depends on where you live and when you use it. In NW, you get a guaranteed couple of working months in the summer, then after that the random sunny day, but only between the hours of 10 and 3 in winter --if at all. And if the sun is strong but not directly overhead that'll mess it up too, even with the screens. So will being too close, some strong muzzle blasts etc.
When it does work, it is invaluable. As a handloader, it is just priceless.
For me, I think I'll be needing the IR add-on. Almost all my problems are lighting related, so that is the heads up I'm trying to get across. They can be real finicky about that. The new one they have looks a lot lighter and smaller than the old incadescents that used to go over the top. I wouldn't get that outright unless you use a lot of indoor ranges or shoot in poor light. I reckon you have decent light outdoors in PA, but if you shoot at dusk or dawn you may need it. I find that HID lighting, stadium lighting, doesn't help either.
I saw a picture of the FBI using a piece of plywood with a rectangular cutout about 1'x2' or so in the middle, then the chrono went on the other side. That helped with the muzzle blast and those funny readings you get like "4000fps" with a .45.
To prevent blowing it up, I fix the trajectory so that my round will hit the target to be safe, but I actually aim to not hit the chrono, nothing else really.
Other than being finicky about light, I can't complain.
Not sure of the model I have off hand, it is a Chrony, it is the most basic one though, and they are all the same except the extras I think. I'd get the one with the remote and a little extra memory though, that memory would be real nice so I don't have to record every shot after the shot. I wish they'd make one that plugs into a Ti-83/89/200 calculator though.
How well they work depends on where you live and when you use it. In NW, you get a guaranteed couple of working months in the summer, then after that the random sunny day, but only between the hours of 10 and 3 in winter --if at all. And if the sun is strong but not directly overhead that'll mess it up too, even with the screens. So will being too close, some strong muzzle blasts etc.
When it does work, it is invaluable. As a handloader, it is just priceless.
For me, I think I'll be needing the IR add-on. Almost all my problems are lighting related, so that is the heads up I'm trying to get across. They can be real finicky about that. The new one they have looks a lot lighter and smaller than the old incadescents that used to go over the top. I wouldn't get that outright unless you use a lot of indoor ranges or shoot in poor light. I reckon you have decent light outdoors in PA, but if you shoot at dusk or dawn you may need it. I find that HID lighting, stadium lighting, doesn't help either.
I saw a picture of the FBI using a piece of plywood with a rectangular cutout about 1'x2' or so in the middle, then the chrono went on the other side. That helped with the muzzle blast and those funny readings you get like "4000fps" with a .45.
To prevent blowing it up, I fix the trajectory so that my round will hit the target to be safe, but I actually aim to not hit the chrono, nothing else really.
Other than being finicky about light, I can't complain.
