I have always had an affinity for short precision rifles. I am wanting to put something together either in 6.5CM or .308 with a barrel no longer than 17". I was thinking of using a Rem700 SPS AAC SD as my platform and ditching the stock for a good chassis. I am leaning towards the MPA chassis. I will definitely be upgrading the trigger and adding a break. I generally shoot no more than 500-600 yards and I would also take it into the woods from time to time. Am I on the right track or what do you suggest?
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Walking in the woods rifles I like to be light(er) weight. Even a shorty if it's over 12lb gets to be a bear after a while. That's one thing I would look out for.
Barrel quality makes precision. Factory Remington rifles are a gamble between 1/2 MOA and 4 MOA. Typically you can get into the 1 MOA or better range with the right ammo or reloads, though. Depending on the targets you intend to shoot, for 500-600yd a factory barrel could work fine. I'm just leery to say it "will work" because I've seen some pretty heinous Remington factory tubes.
IMO it's usually worth it to look at a Tikka T3. The actions are better (fit/finish), you get primary extraction, aftermarket is growing, and the barrels shoot, on the whole, better than Remington. MPA makes a chassis for the T3, as do many others now. Just something to consider, in my mind it's a no-brainer to take a Tikka T3 CTR (and have the barrel cut down) over almost any Remington unless the remington is a cheapo action donor to be built from the ground up.
Out to 500-600 you can go on JBM and play with different numbers for the different calibers. Pretty much anything will work, and be relatively equivalently hamstrung in the velocity department by the short barrel length. They will all work.
Barrel quality makes precision. Factory Remington rifles are a gamble between 1/2 MOA and 4 MOA. Typically you can get into the 1 MOA or better range with the right ammo or reloads, though. Depending on the targets you intend to shoot, for 500-600yd a factory barrel could work fine. I'm just leery to say it "will work" because I've seen some pretty heinous Remington factory tubes.
IMO it's usually worth it to look at a Tikka T3. The actions are better (fit/finish), you get primary extraction, aftermarket is growing, and the barrels shoot, on the whole, better than Remington. MPA makes a chassis for the T3, as do many others now. Just something to consider, in my mind it's a no-brainer to take a Tikka T3 CTR (and have the barrel cut down) over almost any Remington unless the remington is a cheapo action donor to be built from the ground up.
Out to 500-600 you can go on JBM and play with different numbers for the different calibers. Pretty much anything will work, and be relatively equivalently hamstrung in the velocity department by the short barrel length. They will all work.
Like This (although its not a 6.5 or 308, its a 375WSM), Just fitted the XLR for a bit of fun. Eventually I will pull the barrel and rebarrel in 30Nosler
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Is it worth it? Absolutely. You can get an 16.5" 6.5CM or 6.5x47L to 2800 with 120s/123s and it makes for a nifty little hunting rifle that i wouldn't be afraid of taking 600yd shots with.
Ledzep is pretty much spot on if you're going to be walking even a small rifle can be cumbersome. The rifle pictured below is an 18" 6.5x47 with a remington/sendero varmint contour, loaded it's 12.5lbs. I'd go medium palma if you're wanting to retain some thickness. Look for a sub 30oz optic and pair it with a light stock/chassis.
I always reference Joe's video but it just makes sense. 308 isn't a bad idea in a short package either especially if you're looking for more energy but i just like the BCs of the 6.5s relative to the weight more.
Ledzep is pretty much spot on if you're going to be walking even a small rifle can be cumbersome. The rifle pictured below is an 18" 6.5x47 with a remington/sendero varmint contour, loaded it's 12.5lbs. I'd go medium palma if you're wanting to retain some thickness. Look for a sub 30oz optic and pair it with a light stock/chassis.
I always reference Joe's video but it just makes sense. 308 isn't a bad idea in a short package either especially if you're looking for more energy but i just like the BCs of the 6.5s relative to the weight more.
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Do it - you won’t regret it. I recently built an 18-inch .308 with a Bighorn TL3 and a Criterion prefit in an XLR Element (my match rifle is a TL3/Element setup as well, but with a shouldered barrel from PVA). My plan is to have fun, and maybe shoot it in a club match or two. I am still working on load development, but it has been very accurate with Varget and a variety of bullets. So far 190gr MatchKings have been the best. Subsonic suppressed .308 pegs the giggle-meter.
I'm tinkering with the same idea in a 6.5 creedmoor but wanted to shoot the 143 elds. Is 18-20" reasonable length or do I need to run a lighter bullet 120/123 to get the highest potential?
I think so. I've seen people achieve 2700 with short 6.5s but you're likely to hit moderate speeds with 120s/123s/130s than the 140s for sure. I'm thinking 8208 is going to be my ticket that or 4895 and i'm going to try varget. I got great results with 2000MR but i don't expect to stay with it because it's temp sensitive.
I do like the features of the Tikka (double stack mags, great trigger, short bolt throw etc.) I have never had a chance to put my hands on one so I need to make that a priority because most of my experience is with the Remington. Is the Tikka threaded for common muzzle devices like the area 419 brake?
The CTR is a 20" barrel with 5/8-24 muzzle threads (pretty standard 6mm-30 cal threads). To get the 16-17" you want you'd have to have it cut and re-threaded (likely the same, 5/8-24). Maybe $100-150. I don't think Tikka has a factory option shorter than 20". It's all personal/opinion whether it's worth the extra money. Like I said, for me a no-brainer, but I spent a year building precision rifles so a lot of things I see in Remingtons bug me that wouldn't bug 95% of everyone else.
That’s similar to the project I have been working on. 
I tried to get the 140 VLDs to shoot with H4350, but so far the 130’s with Varget seem to be more accurate. Still in the load development stage.
Rifle itself weighs 5lb 8oz, with rings and scope is 7lb 2 oz.
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I tried to get the 140 VLDs to shoot with H4350, but so far the 130’s with Varget seem to be more accurate. Still in the load development stage.
Rifle itself weighs 5lb 8oz, with rings and scope is 7lb 2 oz.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Everyone loves a project but if it were me I'd just buy this: http://cz-usa.com/product/cz-557-urban-counter-sniper/
The name is a little gay, but what you get (action/barrel/stock) is top notch. They run around $1700 retail (without the scope, obviously).
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/cdn.cz-usa.com\/hammer\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/12\/557UCS.png"}[/IMG2]
The name is a little gay, but what you get (action/barrel/stock) is top notch. They run around $1700 retail (without the scope, obviously).
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/cdn.cz-usa.com\/hammer\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/12\/557UCS.png"}[/IMG2]
Maybe another option, Just for a shorty build, ( gap will also have a special youth model with spacers ) , Sneek peek at the new MCS-TC ( tactical Compact ). Details soon, will have new for shot show 2018. overall 24" collapsed, min lop about 10" quick deployment of butt to a max of 14". From front of recoil its only about 8" to tip of forend, designed for 16" to 18" or SBR suppressed. Pic is 700 style short action with 16" barrel in 6 creed. Thank you very much
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I posted this elsewhere not too long ago, but I'm just excited, so here it is again, I'll weigh in when I get 'er built!
I'm gathering parts for a 16.5" 6.5CM. Here's what I've got so far:
Bartlein #3 1:8
Defiance Deviant Hunter
Timney 2-Stage
APA Bottom Metal
Mcmillan HTG Edge
I plan to run suppressed pretty much full-time with 120's or 130's. I am ridiculously excited about this build!!
I'm gathering parts for a 16.5" 6.5CM. Here's what I've got so far:
Bartlein #3 1:8
Defiance Deviant Hunter
Timney 2-Stage
APA Bottom Metal
Mcmillan HTG Edge
I plan to run suppressed pretty much full-time with 120's or 130's. I am ridiculously excited about this build!!
Will be a great build. Light as hell with a #3 too at 16.5. Dad's 23" 3B is 9lbs loaded without the can and bipod. 11 with.
do you have a weight for this stock and will it be available for Tikka CTR reciever and DBM inletting?
That’s similar to the project I have been working on.
I tried to get the 140 VLDs to shoot with H4350, but so far the 130’s with Varget seem to be more accurate. Still in the load development stage.
Rifle itself weighs 5lb 8oz, with rings and scope is 7lb 2 oz.
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How long can you load with the factory magazines?
I have a 16" .308 shooting 155 Bergers, 16.5" 6.5 Creed shooting 140 Bergers and an 18" 7 Creedmoor SAC shooting 140 Accubonds. They are all deer hammers and pretty much interchangeable in terms of DOPE. Each easily bangs steel with regularity to 600yds. The 7 SAC was built to be light in a McM Gamescout. It handles pretty much like a Remington Model Seven but with a throat and modified internal mag to allow longer seating with secant ogive bullets.
I say do it too. Both of these are Rem Varmint Bartleins and weigh around the 12 lb mark with the CM a bit less with the Mark 4. Killed 4 deer and a speed goat with the CM this year and wasn't horrible to carry, but if I was going to build a pure hunting rifle, a lighter contour would be used for sure.
18" 6.5x47L (the tan one) shooting 140gr just under 2700fps fueled by 4350
18" 6.5CM shooting 123gr at 2800fps with Varget.
18" 6.5x47L (the tan one) shooting 140gr just under 2700fps fueled by 4350
18" 6.5CM shooting 123gr at 2800fps with Varget.
After 18 years and over 3000 at 1k my original build has sat for a decade. For shits and giggles I had my buddy cut the barrel to 16.5", then I pulled the max50s off and out a set of standard Badger steels. Not a lightweight by any means. 11.5# without the can (30-P1) , unloaded. The can brings it back up to 12.75# and 26" tube. Easy to maneuver in the field and in a box but still too heavy. If I was building one from scratch I'd go with a 90% or full carbon stock and either a heavily fluted #4 or a 20" Proof in 9 twist.
I'll likely order a proof for this, and swap the rings and base to aluminum. That should get me under 10#.
I'll likely order a proof for this, and swap the rings and base to aluminum. That should get me under 10#.
Do it. 18” 6.5 finished last year. Dropped its first coyote last week. You won’t regret it.
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This is built off a 30-06 action. I can touch the lands with the 140’s with 1/4” + to spare.
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I went the tikka route. Standard .308 Varmint chapped 17.5' in a Manners T3 with CDI DBM. 10.8lbs as pictured.
<a href="https://imgur.com/Z6zIjUd"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Z6zIjUd.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
Another option if you're interested in saving weight could be a standard Tikka lite in a B&C or similar stock, this one with 22.4' barrel weighs 8.8lbs
<a href="https://imgur.com/HzGMmat"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/HzGMmat.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
Now if you wanna go the whole hog I'd be looking at this:
<a href="https://imgur.com/8fgxPhx"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/8fgxPhxh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<a href="https://imgur.com/Z6zIjUd"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Z6zIjUd.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
Another option if you're interested in saving weight could be a standard Tikka lite in a B&C or similar stock, this one with 22.4' barrel weighs 8.8lbs
<a href="https://imgur.com/HzGMmat"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/HzGMmat.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
Now if you wanna go the whole hog I'd be looking at this:
<a href="https://imgur.com/8fgxPhx"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/8fgxPhxh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
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