I've got a 1995 serial numbered (W. German roll marked) Sig P220 LE Trade In on the way. Anyone have any recommendations on what I need to inspect when I get it?
Thanks
Thanks
Sidearms & Scatterguns Sig P220 LE Trade In
- Thread starter tpr564
- Start date
Re: Sig P220 LE Trade In
Break it down for a good cleaning, put some grease on the rails, and get a few boxes of ammo togeather, and shoot it. They are bulletproof, and usually more accurate than one can hold them. JPG
Break it down for a good cleaning, put some grease on the rails, and get a few boxes of ammo togeather, and shoot it. They are bulletproof, and usually more accurate than one can hold them. JPG
Re: Sig P220 LE Trade In
If it has been refurbed by Sig you should be good to go. If it has not, I would suggest getting somebody to break it down a little further and look at the firing pin block. If the gun has ever been dropped there could be some damage to it that can affect safety.
Other than that, as was said above, clean it lube the rails Rem oil works on mine and shoot it. They are a great weapon.
If it has been refurbed by Sig you should be good to go. If it has not, I would suggest getting somebody to break it down a little further and look at the firing pin block. If the gun has ever been dropped there could be some damage to it that can affect safety.
Other than that, as was said above, clean it lube the rails Rem oil works on mine and shoot it. They are a great weapon.
Re: Sig P220 LE Trade In
I love the 220 just an incredible gun. If you do night sights get the ones they put on the elite dark, great sights. Sig makes a variety of grips if you are looking to customize. They also do a short trigger and short reset that is really nice. Otherwise, just strip, clean and shoot, repeat as much as possible
I love the 220 just an incredible gun. If you do night sights get the ones they put on the elite dark, great sights. Sig makes a variety of grips if you are looking to customize. They also do a short trigger and short reset that is really nice. Otherwise, just strip, clean and shoot, repeat as much as possible
Re: Sig P220 LE Trade In
Sounds good, thanks. AGI and Sig each have armorer DVD's for less than $20. I was going to get one or the other so I can break it all the way down myself and do the parts kit replacements. Anyone have any experience or recommendations between the two?
Sounds good, thanks. AGI and Sig each have armorer DVD's for less than $20. I was going to get one or the other so I can break it all the way down myself and do the parts kit replacements. Anyone have any experience or recommendations between the two?
Re: Sig P220 LE Trade In
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tpr564</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sounds good, thanks. AGI and Sig each have armorer DVD's for less than $20. I was going to get one or the other so I can break it all the way down myself and do the parts kit replacements. Anyone have any experience or recommendations between the two? </div></div>
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IF you do that put a white sheet down under where your working. Some small springs an small black parts may decide to leave, if thats the case the sheet will make it a lot easier to recover'm. Sig's arent that hard to work on but they certainly aren't a Glock. Is it a DA/SA , DA only?
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Make sure you put the trigger bar spring back in on the notch an NOT in the hole (its on the right side of the gun) otherwise you wont get much shooting done. Also not a bad idea to take a picture during disassembly if you have the patience for that makes an easy referal. ALSO when you get back to the sear its easier to drop in from the top once you get that mess just about all done..you'll see what I mean when you get there.
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AND if you decide to take the slide apart, buy spare pins awhile because they aren't supposed to be reused. (Thanks sig...great design)
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tpr564</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sounds good, thanks. AGI and Sig each have armorer DVD's for less than $20. I was going to get one or the other so I can break it all the way down myself and do the parts kit replacements. Anyone have any experience or recommendations between the two? </div></div>
.
IF you do that put a white sheet down under where your working. Some small springs an small black parts may decide to leave, if thats the case the sheet will make it a lot easier to recover'm. Sig's arent that hard to work on but they certainly aren't a Glock. Is it a DA/SA , DA only?
.
Make sure you put the trigger bar spring back in on the notch an NOT in the hole (its on the right side of the gun) otherwise you wont get much shooting done. Also not a bad idea to take a picture during disassembly if you have the patience for that makes an easy referal. ALSO when you get back to the sear its easier to drop in from the top once you get that mess just about all done..you'll see what I mean when you get there.
.
AND if you decide to take the slide apart, buy spare pins awhile because they aren't supposed to be reused. (Thanks sig...great design)
Re: Sig P220 LE Trade In
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ghogs Nightmare</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Is it a DA/SA , DA only?
</div></div>
A 1995 would be a DA/SA I think. Until recently, all SIG P220s were DA/SA. I remember the DAK being introduced in the mid to late 2000's. I just got rid of a p226 in 40S&W with the DAK trigger. I can say I would rather deal with the first DA pull on the DA/SA, or thumb cock. I didn't care for follow ups with the DAK trigger. Not as smooth as the SA for follow ups. I guess I'm just not used to it. An SA pull or a striker fire pistol spoils you.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ghogs Nightmare</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Is it a DA/SA , DA only?
</div></div>
A 1995 would be a DA/SA I think. Until recently, all SIG P220s were DA/SA. I remember the DAK being introduced in the mid to late 2000's. I just got rid of a p226 in 40S&W with the DAK trigger. I can say I would rather deal with the first DA pull on the DA/SA, or thumb cock. I didn't care for follow ups with the DAK trigger. Not as smooth as the SA for follow ups. I guess I'm just not used to it. An SA pull or a striker fire pistol spoils you.
Re: Sig P220 LE Trade In
Well, got the gun, cleaned it up, did a full breakdown and rebuild with a new "parts kit", magazine springs and hammer spring and put it all back together. Its tits. I cant image a new Sig being this smooth and accurate (they probably are after they're broken in). Now I just need to find a place to cerakote it for me and it'll be a super nice addition to the collection.
Well, got the gun, cleaned it up, did a full breakdown and rebuild with a new "parts kit", magazine springs and hammer spring and put it all back together. Its tits. I cant image a new Sig being this smooth and accurate (they probably are after they're broken in). Now I just need to find a place to cerakote it for me and it'll be a super nice addition to the collection.
Re: Sig P220 LE Trade In
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: M855</div><div class="ubbcode-body">HAD a trade in of about the same vintage 220,check or replace the L shaped trigger spring mine broke,also hope that your sights didnt get changed the pistol I had shot 6-7 inches low at 10 yards </div></div>
I just got a Sig P220 Stainless that's kinda like a Colt Commander. The Sig P220 Stainless that my buddy has is a 5" barrel, mine is about an inch shorter.
Awesomely smooth pistol, I'm really happy with it. I did notice though that mine does the same exact thing. At 10yd is shoots about 6" low and it has Sig factory nites on it.
I'm going to get the SRT kit and take it over to a friend who is a Sig armorer for his department and have him replace the trigger for me.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: M855</div><div class="ubbcode-body">HAD a trade in of about the same vintage 220,check or replace the L shaped trigger spring mine broke,also hope that your sights didnt get changed the pistol I had shot 6-7 inches low at 10 yards </div></div>
I just got a Sig P220 Stainless that's kinda like a Colt Commander. The Sig P220 Stainless that my buddy has is a 5" barrel, mine is about an inch shorter.
Awesomely smooth pistol, I'm really happy with it. I did notice though that mine does the same exact thing. At 10yd is shoots about 6" low and it has Sig factory nites on it.
I'm going to get the SRT kit and take it over to a friend who is a Sig armorer for his department and have him replace the trigger for me.
Re: Sig P220 LE Trade In
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tpr564</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well, got the gun, cleaned it up, did a full breakdown and rebuild with a new "parts kit", magazine springs and hammer spring and put it all back together. Its tits. I cant image a new Sig being this smooth and accurate (they probably are after they're broken in). Now I just need to find a place to cerakote it for me and it'll be a super nice addition to the collection. </div></div>
I had the same opinion when I picked up my West German P6 (225) I paid $350 for it and It seems to be smother than my wifes P239. Cant go wrong with a Sig
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tpr564</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well, got the gun, cleaned it up, did a full breakdown and rebuild with a new "parts kit", magazine springs and hammer spring and put it all back together. Its tits. I cant image a new Sig being this smooth and accurate (they probably are after they're broken in). Now I just need to find a place to cerakote it for me and it'll be a super nice addition to the collection. </div></div>
I had the same opinion when I picked up my West German P6 (225) I paid $350 for it and It seems to be smother than my wifes P239. Cant go wrong with a Sig
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