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Sig Sauer Tango MSR zeroing distance

Murderface

Private
Minuteman
May 28, 2020
19
7
So I have a Sig Sauer Tango MSR and looking through the manual, there is no mention whatsoever to as of what distance the scope should be zeroed to properly utilize its BDC6 reticle ranging capabilities shooting 5.56/223. All it gives are MOA values. Does anyone know how to make sense of this?

BDC6 reticle.jpg
 
Playing around in Strelok Pro, the width of the hash marks appear to equate to the width of an IPSC target from 300-800 yards. That being said, without knowing how Sig set up the reticle, either to a specific cartridge or around an average of common calibers, bullets, and velocities there isn't a good way to determine what zero distance is best. I can tell you that if I run the numbers from one of my carbines, slinging 55gr ball, a 36 yard zero will put the first hashmark at 400, then 500 for the next one down, and it starts be less accurate after that. If I zero the reticle at 100 yards for 77gr SMK (Mk 262 Mod 1) going about 2700 then the hashmarks line up decently well on IPSC sized plates out to 800. I recommend using a free program like JBM Ballistics to run some charts and find what works out the best or pay for the Strelok Pro app that is loaded with the BDC6 reticle and lets you see what range the hashmark equals.

Keep in mind a LPVO w/ a BDC are for better or worse designed to get you close enough on a torso-sized target, not dead on balls accurate.
 
Playing around in Strelok Pro, the width of the hash marks appear to equate to the width of an IPSC target from 300-800 yards. That being said, without knowing how Sig set up the reticle, either to a specific cartridge or around an average of common calibers, bullets, and velocities there isn't a good way to determine what zero distance is best. I can tell you that if I run the numbers from one of my carbines, slinging 55gr ball, a 36 yard zero will put the first hashmark at 400, then 500 for the next one down, and it starts be less accurate after that. If I zero the reticle at 100 yards for 77gr SMK (Mk 262 Mod 1) going about 2700 then the hashmarks line up decently well on IPSC sized plates out to 800. I recommend using a free program like JBM Ballistics to run some charts and find what works out the best or pay for the Strelok Pro app that is loaded with the BDC6 reticle and lets you see what range the hashmark equals.

Keep in mind a LPVO w/ a BDC are for better or worse designed to get you close enough on a torso-sized target, not dead on balls accurate
Without a Chrono you'll never have real numbers, and you never get what's on the box, The factory figures are like automobile fuel economy figures. They're done in a very controlled environment for the fastest velocity as that's the big selling point, because faster is always better lol.

That said the reticles are getting out of hand these days, and other than wind holds, just set it up correct with all the info including measuring the scope height, when all that's done you punch in the yards and go, but even then after 300 at best its just close,, you still have to dial your elevation then replace the generated figure with the new one. 800 is a real stretch, as you're talking over 250 plus inches of drop thats, and with 250ft lbs which just about enough to penetrate skin. In reality I took the MK12 clone down south and you need an 18" match grade barrel for that and while you always find someone who does those ranges for fun, they also have the benefit of Jacked up hand loads, and other crazy stuff to make it easier. The military used to list the MK12

Can your upper and get a 224 Valkyrie with a 24" bull and have some real fun if you like the small frame AR or jump to a 308 or dozen other SA cartridges out there. In my opinion everybody jumped to


That's the other thing, with carbine which I'll assume is a generic lightweight barrel, after 8-10 consecutive shots you'll never get hit anything at distance till it cools for 20min or so, oddly few know this and then start to get crazy with the the turrets, and then they take a shot a 1-200 and can't even hit the paper.

I have a regular Ar15, a barrel AR308 with stainless 20" barrel. it looks heavy enough, and 8-10 shots, can't hit anything, check at 100 and its 6-8 left of the paper target. but with my 24" Real DPMS 308, I say real because its what every body copied, but sadly aside from the angle at the back of the upper, the similarities, quickly evaporate. anyway you can shoot it and shoot it and at best its warm to the touch.

If you can find someone that really knows strelok pro you'll quickly realize there's a tons of stuff you didn't even know was there nor even find some of it.
 

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Yeh, amazon has them too same price. I like palmetto but seems every time they have a deal and something shows in stock, it winds being out of stock. Their complete lowers on the other hand can't be beat for $125,, but the local dealer that did the paperwork shafted me and listed them as AR 15 rifle, which is not correct, so now i gotta fix that mess as they were for pistol builds., and according to the ATF, there's no such thing as a lower that's never been attached to an upper regardless of whether it came with a carbine stock or a pistol brace have no designation and can't be classed based on the buttstock or carry the description that doesn't even mention they were only lowers. Problem is if i remove and then install a brace, and they ever check the paper work it will show i bought a complete rifle.
 
With my 14.5 and 77 tmk handload and elevation and all that jazz a 200 yard zero will give me first line 400 then to 900. It’s a close enough match for me. Played with all sorts of zero distances on JBM and this gives me the closest match to making each line work
 

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