After nearly 2 years of waiting I finally have a Tac 2 in my possession. This is my first long range weapon (.308) and to be honest I am not very familiar with the platform. Does anyone know anything about this weapon? I can't seem to find the thread pitch to attach a muzzle break and how to instal a bipod. Any info or help is appreciated.
- Thread starter DirtyDunk
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- sig tactical 2
Hi,
Congrats on the purchase. I just bought a Tac 2 recently as well. I'll see if my manual or the thread cap has any info but so far I don't have the answer on the muzzle brake. As for bipods, I ordered the Atlast AFAR kit, which is a UIT Anschutz picatinny rail adapter. The adapter should slot in on the bottom of the forearm. My Atlas bipod and AFAR kit arrive tomorrow and I will post here after I discover how it works.
PS How do you find the decocking lever for the safety? I find mine requires a lot of pressure to engage/disengage. At first I thought it was stuck.
Congrats on the purchase. I just bought a Tac 2 recently as well. I'll see if my manual or the thread cap has any info but so far I don't have the answer on the muzzle brake. As for bipods, I ordered the Atlast AFAR kit, which is a UIT Anschutz picatinny rail adapter. The adapter should slot in on the bottom of the forearm. My Atlas bipod and AFAR kit arrive tomorrow and I will post here after I discover how it works.
PS How do you find the decocking lever for the safety? I find mine requires a lot of pressure to engage/disengage. At first I thought it was stuck.
Chiller is correct, at least for the ones I have been incontact with.
Hello, DD. I have been playing with a Blaser Tactical 2 since very early this year. I don't claim to know all things about Blaser, but I certainly know more than I did a few months ago.
My first piece of advice...is to skip SIG. They are owned by Blaser and Blaser has decided to being all of the Blaser named rifles back into their house. In the US. So...you will find Blaser in San Antonio much more responsive than SIG on Blaser parts and service. Also...SIG can get you anything....but they have to wait to get it from Blaser.
I learned pretty quick to just deal with Blaser in SA.
Here is some testing I did with ASYM 175g 308 ammo. Shoots lights out in my Tactical.
Asym 308 175 Grain Ammo. 100 Yards. Sig Sauer / Blaser Tactical 2 Rifle | TacticalTshirts.com
Here is a link on a home cammo job I did on my Blaser a few weeks ago. The all black just doesn't work for work. YMMV.
Home Camo Job on Your Rifle. Sig Sauer / Blaser Tactical 2 | TacticalTshirts.com
Finally, here is a thread that is hidden all the way down in the reloading section of this site. It has become the go-to thread for Blaser owners to share load data and get advice on gear and configurations. I subscribe to it dutifully.
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...476-blaser-tactical-2-lrs-2-r93-r8-loads.html
As for a bi-pod, I got the AFAR kit from Atlas and just ran with their setup. I do prefer the Atlas bi-pod.
To address the cocking and de-cocking...I might be able to contribute something there as well. I even showed the guys at Blaser USA a trick on that one. Since the safety is also the cocking mechanism, you are pushing against the firing pin spring which cocks and un-cocks the rifle. It is still relative to more traditional designs. My "trick" is to use my thumb on the button, and to put my opposing finger (index) against the flat surface on the charging lever closest to to the bolt body.
By placing your finger there, you can easily engage and disengage the safety from just about any position or hand. Be it standing or full prone behind the rifle. After figuring this out on my own, I subsequently discovered some foreign military units use this same technique on their issued Blaser Tactical's.
Parts sources:
Euro-Optic is a great dealer on this.
Mad-Dog guns on Gunbroker / Gunsamercia is a legit stocking dealer.
And Blaser in San Antinio.
Sure there are others.
The cool-kids don't subscribe to the Blaser design, but I have to say, once I got used to the idea of the straight bolt tech, there is A LOT to like. Fast. Wicked accurate. Don't weigh a metric shit-ton (A major pet-peeve I have that civilians seem to not give a shit about), switch caliber.
The funny thing about the Blaser Tactical 2 is when I first saw it years ago, I laughed out loud. Look at that freaking pig of a space gun. Just what I need. Another 4 ton rifle to carry around. A few years later, I ended up looking at the Blaser R8 hunting line, since the accuracy claims appealed to me. And the switch caliber allows me to use the rifle more often than just on "That one hunting trip".
What ended up happening was I was SO thoroughly impressed and blown away by the R8, I figured I would give the Tactical a second look. The only...and I mean only...half-way legitimate downside to the Blaser Tactical 2 is the mag capacity. There are no 10 or 20 rounders for it. So....if you think you might be at a disadvantage in a tactical match, maybe that is a concern. But speaking honestly for myself....when it comes to precision rifles, my inability to take first place has NEVER had anything to do with fire-power. If it did, I would switch to a gas gun.
Hope this post was helpful.
Keep "Shooting guns and having fun". That's our company motto. Who gives a shit what your favorite bullet launcher is.
TTR
My first piece of advice...is to skip SIG. They are owned by Blaser and Blaser has decided to being all of the Blaser named rifles back into their house. In the US. So...you will find Blaser in San Antonio much more responsive than SIG on Blaser parts and service. Also...SIG can get you anything....but they have to wait to get it from Blaser.
I learned pretty quick to just deal with Blaser in SA.
Here is some testing I did with ASYM 175g 308 ammo. Shoots lights out in my Tactical.
Asym 308 175 Grain Ammo. 100 Yards. Sig Sauer / Blaser Tactical 2 Rifle | TacticalTshirts.com
Here is a link on a home cammo job I did on my Blaser a few weeks ago. The all black just doesn't work for work. YMMV.
Home Camo Job on Your Rifle. Sig Sauer / Blaser Tactical 2 | TacticalTshirts.com
Finally, here is a thread that is hidden all the way down in the reloading section of this site. It has become the go-to thread for Blaser owners to share load data and get advice on gear and configurations. I subscribe to it dutifully.
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...476-blaser-tactical-2-lrs-2-r93-r8-loads.html
As for a bi-pod, I got the AFAR kit from Atlas and just ran with their setup. I do prefer the Atlas bi-pod.
To address the cocking and de-cocking...I might be able to contribute something there as well. I even showed the guys at Blaser USA a trick on that one. Since the safety is also the cocking mechanism, you are pushing against the firing pin spring which cocks and un-cocks the rifle. It is still relative to more traditional designs. My "trick" is to use my thumb on the button, and to put my opposing finger (index) against the flat surface on the charging lever closest to to the bolt body.
By placing your finger there, you can easily engage and disengage the safety from just about any position or hand. Be it standing or full prone behind the rifle. After figuring this out on my own, I subsequently discovered some foreign military units use this same technique on their issued Blaser Tactical's.
Parts sources:
Euro-Optic is a great dealer on this.
Mad-Dog guns on Gunbroker / Gunsamercia is a legit stocking dealer.
And Blaser in San Antinio.
Sure there are others.
The cool-kids don't subscribe to the Blaser design, but I have to say, once I got used to the idea of the straight bolt tech, there is A LOT to like. Fast. Wicked accurate. Don't weigh a metric shit-ton (A major pet-peeve I have that civilians seem to not give a shit about), switch caliber.
The funny thing about the Blaser Tactical 2 is when I first saw it years ago, I laughed out loud. Look at that freaking pig of a space gun. Just what I need. Another 4 ton rifle to carry around. A few years later, I ended up looking at the Blaser R8 hunting line, since the accuracy claims appealed to me. And the switch caliber allows me to use the rifle more often than just on "That one hunting trip".
What ended up happening was I was SO thoroughly impressed and blown away by the R8, I figured I would give the Tactical a second look. The only...and I mean only...half-way legitimate downside to the Blaser Tactical 2 is the mag capacity. There are no 10 or 20 rounders for it. So....if you think you might be at a disadvantage in a tactical match, maybe that is a concern. But speaking honestly for myself....when it comes to precision rifles, my inability to take first place has NEVER had anything to do with fire-power. If it did, I would switch to a gas gun.
Hope this post was helpful.
Keep "Shooting guns and having fun". That's our company motto. Who gives a shit what your favorite bullet launcher is.
TTR
Quick add....
To de-cock the rifle, push the bottom third of the safety lever. You will find it release quite easily.
TTR
To de-cock the rifle, push the bottom third of the safety lever. You will find it release quite easily.
TTR
Ok. That is fair.
Attachments
Stupid question here. I just got one of these in trade with no manual. The barrel was separate in the box but the bolt was already in the action. I cant seem to make the bolt move at all. The safety will engage and disengage but I cannot get the bolt to move at all. I know it's likely something stupid I am overlooking but I just cant see it. Any help would be appreciated.
Yeah, it just wont move at all. I didnt want to force it. It seems locked in place but I dont see a release or anything else.
If the safety is on, the bolt is locked (safety to the bottom of the bolt body) push the safety to the top until it locks in place ( red dot should be visible), then the bolt handle should pull straight back about 30-45* to the rear allowing you to slide the bolt body rearward. You can also simply push the safety up slightly (about 3-5mm) unlocking the bolt to work the action, but keeping the firing pin uncocked.
To remove the bolt body from the action there's a small plunger at the rear RHS of the action behind the bolt handle, push it down and slide the bolt body out.
Hope that helps.
JJ
To remove the bolt body from the action there's a small plunger at the rear RHS of the action behind the bolt handle, push it down and slide the bolt body out.
Hope that helps.
JJ
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I have tried it with the safety on and off and it won't budge. I cant get it to move at all. I guess I will call Sig and see what they have to say as it should move back to open so the barrel can be installed.
I got the bolt to move finally. Against my better judgement I tapped it on the side end with a wooden dowel and hammer and it moved a bit and seems to be working correctly. Im still not sure what had it locked in place but it simply wouldnt move.
Appears you have gotten it. If the safety was unlocked, what is needed to remember is the bolt handle rotates. If it wasn't in the action and bolt and barrel were together, pulling it back would just probably result in that. I would guess hitting the handle with the dowel caused the both lever to rotate and that unlocked the collet.
Keep us updated. As stated, I'm liking mine so far. And I don't see too many of them on here, so I like to compare notes on what other people discover.
TTR
When I got it yesterday the bolt was in the receiver and the barrel was not installed. The handle would rotate and the safety would engage and disengage but the bolt would not pull open. It felt so tight I thought there was a release or something I was missing but there wasn't. I finally tapped then end of the bolt ccarrier and moved it where i could pull the bolt back like normal and then the relase worked as it should and I could remove the bolt. I don't see anything that caused it to lock up so I'm not sure what happened there. Now I need to get the bipod adapter, butt spike and muzzle brake and then optics, never ends haha but I'm looking forward to playing with this one. I already had the SSG3000 so this seemed like a cool one to add to the pile.
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I have an observation. You might want to take the bolt out and flip it upside down. There is a place inside the bolt obviously that moves with the opening and closing of the action. Clean these surfaces. Oil where needed or make them dry where needed. I think either is fine.
You can observe the place by working he bolt. There is also a small place on the underside of the bolt you can depress, that will "unlock" the bolt. That is how you will observe the surfaces I am describing.
TTR
You can observe the place by working he bolt. There is also a small place on the underside of the bolt you can depress, that will "unlock" the bolt. That is how you will observe the surfaces I am describing.
TTR
Will do that, thanks. It seems to be working correctly and is smooth after I got it freed.
Good to see you've got it sorted mate.
JJ
JJ
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