I've been working on a "poor man's" switch barrel system based off of a Marlin XL-7(uses the same barrel nut system as the Savages). It works really well as is, but I would like to speed up the time to swap barrels. As of now, I've just been using a go-gauge and screwing the barrels down on top of it, then tightening the nut. The whole process takes about 3 minutes, but I'd like to get it under a minute.
Also, headspace isn't just extremely consistent this way. I am getting small poi changes when reinstalling the same caliber barrel from this, which are about about a quarter to half moa.
I was thinking about using a low-temperature solder, such as the Hi-Force 44 stuff from Brownells(flows at 475 degrees F) to lock the barrel nut in place on the barrel, essentially making it a shoulder to headspace off of. Keep my torque relatively consistent when tightening, and my poi change should be consistent as well, correct?
Anyone see a problem with this approach? I would apply flux to the top fourth(or less) of the joint between the nut and barrel, set headspace, tighten nut, then heat and solder for each barrel. I could then use my nut wrench(which I have integrated into the stock) to tighten the barrel without having to worry about setting the headspace or checking with gauges each time as it should be the same.
Thanks for the help!
There you name is removed from a 13 year old post no one can see. Can you relax now?
Also, headspace isn't just extremely consistent this way. I am getting small poi changes when reinstalling the same caliber barrel from this, which are about about a quarter to half moa.
I was thinking about using a low-temperature solder, such as the Hi-Force 44 stuff from Brownells(flows at 475 degrees F) to lock the barrel nut in place on the barrel, essentially making it a shoulder to headspace off of. Keep my torque relatively consistent when tightening, and my poi change should be consistent as well, correct?
Anyone see a problem with this approach? I would apply flux to the top fourth(or less) of the joint between the nut and barrel, set headspace, tighten nut, then heat and solder for each barrel. I could then use my nut wrench(which I have integrated into the stock) to tighten the barrel without having to worry about setting the headspace or checking with gauges each time as it should be the same.
Thanks for the help!
There you name is removed from a 13 year old post no one can see. Can you relax now?