I have heard of people using it to clean out suppressors we have a rental m16 with an old aac omni with who know how many rounds down it di I just pour it in and soak it and blow it out with air?
Suppressors simple green for cleaning cans
- Thread starter Captain Moroni
- Start date
Re: simple green for cleaning cans
I bet it would work, in boot camp we used the shit out of it to clean our rifles for inspection.
I bet it would work, in boot camp we used the shit out of it to clean our rifles for inspection.
Re: simple green for cleaning cans
Stainless and Ti it is great, don't use it on aluminium. Make sure you dilute.
Stainless and Ti it is great, don't use it on aluminium. Make sure you dilute.
Re: simple green for cleaning cans
Well, I'll step forward on this one. One man's opinion.
Proceed at your own risk.
No, not a good idea to use Simple Green. Will explain why at the end.
Back when every suppressor came apart in pieces, one could pride themselves on keeping things perfectly clean and as attachment was more of an art than science, inspect for internal strikes. Now with sealed cans, things have changed.
I had a serious conversation with Chris Short of AWC on this very subject. Now this is not AAC, so I obviously cannot speak for your can, but follow the logic here.
For years Lynn McWilliams of AWC would tell me not to clean their cans at all. But with the passage of so many years, now Chris has a different view that I'll try to summarize for you.
Apologies to Chris, I am trying to get it all right here.
++ You should always call your manufacturer for their recommendations ++
For sealed cans...
1. Do not clean your can unless you strongly believe it has run into an environmental issue that requires cleaning. Severe environment contamination should be returned to the factory.
2. Do not clean your can unless proper use has resulted in a definite degradation of sound suppression. As this is a subjective opinion, wait until you are positive there is a degradation. Routine, regular or "habitual" cleaning is not to be considered. If time allows, return to factory.
3. If one would like to clean their own can. Proceed as follows.
Put out all flames. Seal one end of the can and fill the can 1/3 with Denatured Alcohol Solvent ONLY. Seal the other end and shake. Pour out the fluid. Inspect, If metals or hard pack suspension is found. return to factory. If not, completely fill the can with Denatured Alcohol Solvent ONLY and leave muzzle end up for 6 hours. Pour out and inspect. Immediately refill 1/3 with Denatured Alcohol Fluid and shake and pour out. If the fluid is clean, you are done. Wait one hour with both ends open before shooting. If not clean, read on.
4. No metal or hard material pack (if found, send back to factory), but still pouring out spent powder, etc. consider:
- Another refill and 6 hours.
- Compressed air (brass/aluminum rod extension only)
- Tank cleaning in ultrasonic tank with proper fluid.
The whole point is to use a solution that will completely evaporate and leave little residue. Simple Green will not completely evaporate and may interact poorly with aluminum. Gummy residue is to be avoided.
Hope that helps.
Well, I'll step forward on this one. One man's opinion.
Proceed at your own risk.
No, not a good idea to use Simple Green. Will explain why at the end.
Back when every suppressor came apart in pieces, one could pride themselves on keeping things perfectly clean and as attachment was more of an art than science, inspect for internal strikes. Now with sealed cans, things have changed.
I had a serious conversation with Chris Short of AWC on this very subject. Now this is not AAC, so I obviously cannot speak for your can, but follow the logic here.
For years Lynn McWilliams of AWC would tell me not to clean their cans at all. But with the passage of so many years, now Chris has a different view that I'll try to summarize for you.
Apologies to Chris, I am trying to get it all right here.
++ You should always call your manufacturer for their recommendations ++
For sealed cans...
1. Do not clean your can unless you strongly believe it has run into an environmental issue that requires cleaning. Severe environment contamination should be returned to the factory.
2. Do not clean your can unless proper use has resulted in a definite degradation of sound suppression. As this is a subjective opinion, wait until you are positive there is a degradation. Routine, regular or "habitual" cleaning is not to be considered. If time allows, return to factory.
3. If one would like to clean their own can. Proceed as follows.
Put out all flames. Seal one end of the can and fill the can 1/3 with Denatured Alcohol Solvent ONLY. Seal the other end and shake. Pour out the fluid. Inspect, If metals or hard pack suspension is found. return to factory. If not, completely fill the can with Denatured Alcohol Solvent ONLY and leave muzzle end up for 6 hours. Pour out and inspect. Immediately refill 1/3 with Denatured Alcohol Fluid and shake and pour out. If the fluid is clean, you are done. Wait one hour with both ends open before shooting. If not clean, read on.
4. No metal or hard material pack (if found, send back to factory), but still pouring out spent powder, etc. consider:
- Another refill and 6 hours.
- Compressed air (brass/aluminum rod extension only)
- Tank cleaning in ultrasonic tank with proper fluid.
The whole point is to use a solution that will completely evaporate and leave little residue. Simple Green will not completely evaporate and may interact poorly with aluminum. Gummy residue is to be avoided.
Hope that helps.
