Re: Skinning knife?
Well, thanks Nomag for the compliment. I'll offer my opinion on the subject.
In regard to Bo's question regarding shape, I'd like to offer a little bit of clarification.
1) There is a difference between a convex/flat/concave <span style="font-style: italic">blade</span> and a convex/flat/concave <span style="font-style: italic">edge</span>.
2) Hollow ground knives (done on a wheel) are concave, not convex. Convex bows out from the center-line, not in.
Geometricly, the flat gound blade with distal taper (tapers along the blade's length) is the strongest. It's all triangles and the distal taper allows the blade to distribute the stress of flexing along the full length of the blade and tang vs just the initial point of stress. But for what skinners get used for, it doesn't matter. We don't do a whole lot of prying when skinning/quartering an animal. Convex/flat/concave blade is just the owner's preference.
Personally, I prefer a flat ground blade with a convex edge. The reason for the edge preference is that when cutting, it naturally pushes the material being cut away from the knife's surface more quickly. The less contact with the steel, the smoother the cut.
Regarding skinners specifically, I prefer a blade with a lot of belly in it, but a nice tip for creating starting points too. When skinning, most usually use the rounded portion of their blades so they can cut the skin with a relatively light touch (assuming the knife is still sharp). Yet hair is one of the toughest things on a knife's edge. So the more belly a knife has, the more "skinning surface" you have to work with vs wearing out one spot quickly. Especially if you're skinning hogs. Their hair is nasty!
Here a couple of knives that show the difference. A skinner I did for Single.Shot a little while back. Notice how the edge of the blade is a long curve, but it still has a good point on it. (please forgive my poor photography)
Now here's more of a utility I'm just finishing up. Notice how there is much less round cutting surface on this one. Sure, you could skin with it, but it's not optimized for it.
Edited to add:
If you want to put a convex edge on a knife, you can put a fine sand paper (600 or so) on a piece of leather. The leather will give and create the slight curve. Once you have your shape, work up to higher grits (at least 1000). The more polished your edge is, the longer it will last.
You can also do it on a slack belt grinder, but BE CAREFUL not to get the blade hot. You can (and eventually WILL) ruin the temper on a blade that was properly heat treated. When I sharpen on a belt, I make quick passes and dip the blade in water after every pass.
Well, that's my opinion on the subject. Hope it helps in some way.
JV