What would be the best way to install detachable swivels on the left side of a B&C A2 stock? Thanks for your advice
Gunsmithing sling swivels
- Thread starter gasmann
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Re: sling swivels
I have a question related to this. I've read that you have to leave an allen wrench or something inserted into the flush cup while the epoxy dries when they are used on a B&C do to the interior makeup of the stock. So, is there any strength issues with the flush cups being used on the B&C Stocks?
As my gun has a B&C stock and I'm considering installing some flush cups on it. but not if they're going to rip out if I pull on the sling to hard or something.
I have a question related to this. I've read that you have to leave an allen wrench or something inserted into the flush cup while the epoxy dries when they are used on a B&C do to the interior makeup of the stock. So, is there any strength issues with the flush cups being used on the B&C Stocks?
As my gun has a B&C stock and I'm considering installing some flush cups on it. but not if they're going to rip out if I pull on the sling to hard or something.
Re: sling swivels
I forget the size of drill i used (checked i used a 9/16"for the grove tec flush cups) but the cups fit in the holes just tight enough to hold them selves in place. (i'll check the size and post back tonight)
The front goes through the aluminum block in the stock so i have no doubts that it will hold up just fine. The rear is just the fiberglass stock material about a 1/2" or more thick. Figured if it ever gave way i would just reglass it but it's held up great through some pretty rough conditions.
After drilling out the hole i took a dremel with a cutting bit and flared spots in the bottom of the holes for epoxy to get down in. the rifle in the back is a b&c a3 stock and it has a lot of miles through the woods on it with no flush cup probs. the little one in front is their basic medalist stock, just finished it so hasn't seen but maybe a mile or two. Had to recess a little for the forearm flush cup to fit the way i wanted but it turned out pretty good. Used regular JB weld and Grove Tec flush cups.
Note: the butt of the stock is hollow so your excess epoxy will fall down inside the stock. after generously epoxying everything i turn the stock over with the cups facing down so that the epoxy stay in the flare outs made earlier. if any epoxy oozes through the allen hole in the cup use the dremel again and clean it out.
here's an angled pic that shows the recess.
I forget the size of drill i used (checked i used a 9/16"for the grove tec flush cups) but the cups fit in the holes just tight enough to hold them selves in place. (i'll check the size and post back tonight)
The front goes through the aluminum block in the stock so i have no doubts that it will hold up just fine. The rear is just the fiberglass stock material about a 1/2" or more thick. Figured if it ever gave way i would just reglass it but it's held up great through some pretty rough conditions.
After drilling out the hole i took a dremel with a cutting bit and flared spots in the bottom of the holes for epoxy to get down in. the rifle in the back is a b&c a3 stock and it has a lot of miles through the woods on it with no flush cup probs. the little one in front is their basic medalist stock, just finished it so hasn't seen but maybe a mile or two. Had to recess a little for the forearm flush cup to fit the way i wanted but it turned out pretty good. Used regular JB weld and Grove Tec flush cups.
Note: the butt of the stock is hollow so your excess epoxy will fall down inside the stock. after generously epoxying everything i turn the stock over with the cups facing down so that the epoxy stay in the flare outs made earlier. if any epoxy oozes through the allen hole in the cup use the dremel again and clean it out.
here's an angled pic that shows the recess.
Re: sling swivels
alright i was wrong it's little bigger than 1/2" it's a 9/16" drill. edited above post.
alright i was wrong it's little bigger than 1/2" it's a 9/16" drill. edited above post.
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