• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

Sloppy R700 bolt?

aakrusen

Private
Minuteman
Jun 10, 2020
7
1
Spokane, WA
I purchased the SPS Varmint and when I compare it to my R700 BDL, the bolt on the SPS feels sloppy. I don't know how to describe it other than the bolt can wiggle as I slide it down the action and lock it in. Once it's locked in it feels fine. My BDL bolt feels smooth and "right". Also, the bolt on the SPS is not blued, it's a matte black color with a rough texture. The bolt doesn't seem like it's a "hot dog down a hallway" kind of thing, just not as nice as my BDL.

What are my options here? Short of buying a new custom action and bolt, what can I do with what I've got? Will a new bolt be better? The BDL is RH and the SPS is LH (I'm a lefty) so I just can't swap the bolts.
 
If it's tight once it's locked in, it's functionally fine, and accuracy won't be affected. If the feel of it bothers you, then either bolt replacement or action bushing is in your future... or you can just deal with it and shoot it.
 
I believe you're correct, once locked there's no performance change in the rifle. I've been using that BDL for 15 years and I've gotten spoiled with how nice it is (for an OTS rifle). The looseness of the bolt and the noise it makes when sliding down the action is just annoying.

Action bushing? Tell me more! Is this a DIY thing, or will my gunsmith need to be involved?
If I source a new bolt, should I go after custom aftermarket units, or stick with OEM?
 
I believe you're correct, once locked there's no performance change in the rifle. I've been using that BDL for 15 years and I've gotten spoiled with how nice it is (for an OTS rifle). The looseness of the bolt and the noise it makes when sliding down the action is just annoying.

Action bushing? Tell me more! Is this a DIY thing, or will my gunsmith need to be involved?
If I source a new bolt, should I go after custom aftermarket units, or stick with OEM?
The bushing route is a gunsmith thing: http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/rece...ton-receiver-mandrel-bushing-set-7-piece.html

Regarding a replacement bolt, the aftermarket is likely to be your best bet, because aftermarket bolts can often be had in a variety of diameters which can be matched with the ID of your action for the fit you desire.
 
Welcome to the new Remington.
Over the last 10+ years the company has proven itself to be impressively inconsistent.
They still manage to accidentally make good rifles sometimes, but their quality control is not what it used to be. Not that they were ever a prestigious company to begin with...
Good luck to you. The final test is simply seeing if it shoots well. If it does, then I'd just deal with the slop.

Cheers
 
The sps or adl are lower quality and lower priced rifles. A adl with scope is about $430 at buds. The bolt, finish, and stock shows why they’re cheaper. The few that I’ve bought were fine and shot just as good. However the jeweled bolt on the more expensive rifles are very smooth. I believe oftentimes people are comparing the Tikkas to the ADLs or SPS when they say how much smoother the Tikka is. The Remingtons that I have with the jeweled bolts are like glass. Just my humble opinion
 
  • Like
Reactions: TurdFerguson
Still better than a Savage.

The "rough" bolt will smooth out with use.
Yes they are and a bunch of people drank the koolaid on the howa and tikka’s. None of those generic rifles can hang with the big green. 😂
 
I ran into the same issue with my 700. It's not bad, it's just not what I would consider great as far as looseness. Operationally it's very smooth. Discussing this with Chad at lri, we discussed the option of sleeving the bolt. Like the bushing, it's a gunsmith thing. Less of course you own a lathe and know how to Silver solder and properly index the bolt handle. When I weighed the cost versus benefit I elected to not do anything cuz it simply wasn't that bad.

I thought about Drilling and tapping the back of the receiver for spring loaded details. It never materialized but would work with a lot less time and materials... just something to think about
 
I ran into the same issue with my 700. It's not bad, it's just not what I would consider great as far as looseness. Operationally it's very smooth. Discussing this with Chad at lri, we discussed the option of sleeving the bolt. Like the bushing, it's a gunsmith thing. Less of course you own a lathe and know how to Silver solder and properly index the bolt handle. When I weighed the cost versus benefit I elected to not do anything cuz it simply wasn't that bad.

I thought about Drilling and tapping the back of the receiver for spring loaded details. It never materialized but would work with a lot less time and materials... just something to think about
I’m not familiar with the drilling and tapping the back of the receiver for spring loaded details. How would that take up the slack? Is that to put pressure on the bolt? If so I wouldn’t put unbalanced pressure on the bolt as it will cause uneven wearing to the bolt and action. A sloppy bolt isn’t a real problem as long as the lock up is good and it shoots good. Like they say “if it’s not broken don’t fix it”.
 
I can't say that it's a try to intrude proven method. It was something I thought of when I was discussing the issue of Bolt slop with some gunsmiths.

So long as the pressure from the detents is symmetrical you won't have any issue with tilt or offset. Spring tension can be adjusted as necessary. 4 detente in an X pattern. Back of the boat wood ride on these spring detents. That area is not a structural component, just intended to take up slop while operating a bolt.


Using the same concept you could use nylon/brass tipped set screws.

It won't work on a fluted Bolt... Detents or screw tips would interfere with the flutes...

As a side note, one of the gunsmith side talk to you about this, Mike at Briley... So I told him what I was looking for, after operating the bolt... Yeah, that's a little loose, could be a little better... fuck you, stop being a bich and go shoot or buy a custom action asshole...lol.
 
Last edited:
I can't say that it's a try to intrude proven method. It was something I thought of when I was discussing the issue of Bolt slop with some gunsmiths.

So long as the pressure from the detents is symmetrical you won't have any issue with tilt or offset. Spring tension can be adjusted as necessary. 4 detente in an X pattern. Back of the boat wood ride on these spring detents. That area is not a structural component, just intended to take up slop while operating a bolt.


Using the same concept you could use nylon/brass tipped set screws.

It won't work on a fluted Bolt... Detents or screw tips would interfere with the flutes...
If I were you guys I’d leave them like they are for now. Later on y’all might wanna get a Ptg one piece bolt with a 223 bolt face and a 7 twist remage barrel in 223 wylde or whatever. You guys are the only people who will ever notice the little looseness. Y’all could call Remington and maybe they’ll do something so future rifles don’t have that issue. Just saying