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F T/R Competition Spotting Scope

CSiebert

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 14, 2010
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Southeast missouri
Thinking about getting a spotting scope for Fclass could you guys enlighten me as to the benefits and also which scope to purchase. I have looked at the Kowas but there are so many models I don't have a clue which one would be best for my application. I would like to keep the cost under a grand.

Thanks Corey
 
Re: Spotting Scope

I finally broke down and bought a Kowa TSV82SN with the EER eyepiece last year. Money well spent...
wink.gif
 
Re: Spotting Scope

cz550,
I am new to this site but I am an avid hunter and looking to start some F T/R class shooting. I have used Leupold, burris, Zeiss and many other spotting scopes while hunting around the US (to include Alaska) and w/o a doubt Swarovski makes some of the finest glass. Furthermore, the others listed have failed me in tough weather conditions more than once but my Swaro 20x60x60 is tough as nails dependaple. I am not sure if toughness is a consideration and I have no working knowlede of Kowa scopes but "buy once and forget" is always an advantage.
 
Re: Spotting Scope

The Vortex Razor HD has really impressed me. 20-60x eyepiece is included. As an accessory they also offer a 30x mil or moa eyepiece. Check out the link and call us with any questions.

I have a Swarovski ATM80 with a 20-60x eye piece and while it is an awesome piece of gear, I wish that I could get another eyepiece with some type of mil reticle.
 
Re: Spotting Scope

+1 for the Razor. I can easily spot .308 holes in splatter targets at 600 yd and I suspect it would work out to 700-750 yd. Lots of nice features on the Razor as well.
 
Re: Spotting Scope

Opinions vary, as always, based on usage.

For Greg's application where they shoot primarily what is referred to as 'walk-n-paste' (correct me if I'm wrong on that Greg), being able to see individual shot holes in the target is valuable as they don't pull and mark the target for each shot - if you can't see where your last shot went, tough luck.

Generally speaking though, you don't see matches without pits beyond 300yds very often. Even @ 300yds, the standard is to have targets on sliding carriers with pit service, and the targets are pulled and marked every shot with a scoring plug of a contrasting color - usually fitted with a disc that is big enough to be easily visible through almost any optic.

That said, high *magnification* is not necessarily necessary - you don't need to zoom in on the target center to see the shot. Actually, most of the zoom eye pieces for most brands give up two things that *are* important: field of view, and eye relief.

Field of view allows you to see the *whole* target, and more importantly, a couple targets to either side of yours. Don't care how your neighbors are shooting? You should. If your shot was a wide 9 @ 2 o'clock, was it just you, or the wind? If most of your compatriot's targets show similar scores, it probably wasn't you, and you now have halved the number of things to worry about. If the conditions switched, and you aren't sure about what to dial on, hold up and watch nearby targets for a bit - if someone you know is a good shooter and wind caller biffs one out the side, then there is probably more going on down range than you initially thought - add a little more, and send it. Being able to do all this without having to break position and fiddle with the spotting scope is invaluable.

Most variable power eye-pieces have eye-relief between 17-19mm - a little under, to just about 3/4". Kowa Long Eye Relief eye pieces are more in the realm of 31mm - about 1.25". Think about it this way - the lens of your shooting glasses (you *are* wearing shooting glasses, right?!?) is about 3/4 from your eyeball to start with, so its just about physically impossible to get a full field of view from a variable eye piece without removing your glasses (not recommended), whereas a LER eyepiece lets you see everything without continually bumping up against the lenses.

So at the end of the day, something with a fixed magnification around 25-30x and with wide-angle and/or long-eye-relief features is what you want. I have a Kowa TSN-661 w/ 25x WA/LER lens, and a Kowa 821M w/ 27x LER lens. The current model numbers may be slightly different of course as those models are several years old - I actually bought the 821M on closeout for about what I'd paid for the 661 new several years before.

The fancy fluorite lens coatings i.e. ED, HD, whatever... are very nice to have, as they add considerable definition to the mirage you are watching for (the main reason I bring a spotting scope to the line during a string), especially under less than optimal conditions when its hard to see. The huge price increase associated with them puts such features in the 'luxury' category for me - if you have the money to spare, get 'em. If not... I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.

YMMV,

Monte
 
Re: Spotting Scope

That Monte guy is pretty smart... Isn't he!

Using the 82SV with the 27X-LER eyepiece I can see 3 targets to the left and right of the one I'm scoring when shooting at 600 yards. That equates into a total of 10 targets at 1000 yards, depending on target spacing. Another plus with the field of view is the ability to see trace/impact with the berm and direct the shooter onto the target if he/she doesn't have good dope for their scope. The 82SV has great resolution, I'd say better than the Nightforce rifle scope that I use. Last thing I like doing is using some cheap aze Barska clone for target observation. Your going to spend a long day looking through the spotting scope, eye strain SUCKS. And as the OP stated, the 82SV with the LER eye piece along with a case will come in at just under $1000.

As usual, YMMV, don't try this at home cause were trained professionals, your results may differ from our test results, don't eat yellow snow....
 
Re: Spotting Scope

Monte summed me up perfectly.

There are some instances where things overlap, and being able to see a .22 caliber hole at 300yd is not without a real value.

The old NJ Marine Corps League Carlos match used to be done that way; 20 rounds in 1/2 hour, no sighters, no markers, all at 300yd. You arrive with a zero; if you can't see your strike against a black target background, too bad.

Judging from the real clarity of what I can see at 250, I'd likely be happy with my Nomad on .22's at 300.

But I'll be shooting .30's at 250; so...

Greg