I use the HF HVLP spray guns for Cerakoting and they work great but only last 3-4 jobs before I have to toss them. They end up getting clogged up with Cerakote and it become more of a hassle to clean them than its worth. Any HVLP guns anyone can recommend that disassemble easily to make clean up quick and easy?
Gunsmithing Spray Gun
- Thread starter NYShooter
- Start date
Re: Spray Gun
I used the cheap $30 gun that came with the multi-color H-Series kit for a while. Probably painted 25 slides and a shotgun with it.
NO problems at all other than I lost the O-ring and a fibre washer cleaning it. (Found them later).
The Finex 1000 that I broke out at that time is even easier to clean.
Hard to imagine having to throw a gun away after a few uses???
I used the cheap $30 gun that came with the multi-color H-Series kit for a while. Probably painted 25 slides and a shotgun with it.
NO problems at all other than I lost the O-ring and a fibre washer cleaning it. (Found them later).
The Finex 1000 that I broke out at that time is even easier to clean.
Hard to imagine having to throw a gun away after a few uses???
Re: Spray Gun
they're all pretty much the same in that they have an air cap, fluid nozzle and needle. It's the same to clean a cheap gun as it is to clean a expensive gun. First thing i do after spraying the last coat of paint is clean the spray gun. I use the 3M PPS system which save me having to clean the cup, but stiil gotta clean the rest. Maybe it's just cheaper for you to bin the gun than buy gunwash.
they're all pretty much the same in that they have an air cap, fluid nozzle and needle. It's the same to clean a cheap gun as it is to clean a expensive gun. First thing i do after spraying the last coat of paint is clean the spray gun. I use the 3M PPS system which save me having to clean the cup, but stiil gotta clean the rest. Maybe it's just cheaper for you to bin the gun than buy gunwash.
Re: Spray Gun
$30 spray guns will last a long time if cleaned properly but for me, were finicky at times.
Then I bought an Iwata and never looked back. They're expensive and you would need a return on the investment so may not be for everyone. If you use one, you will want one.
NIC sells them for $350 but I'm sure you can get a better price online.
$30 spray guns will last a long time if cleaned properly but for me, were finicky at times.
Then I bought an Iwata and never looked back. They're expensive and you would need a return on the investment so may not be for everyone. If you use one, you will want one.
NIC sells them for $350 but I'm sure you can get a better price online.
Re: Spray Gun
Iwata hands down. You dont realize how much better it is than the $30 ones until you use it. Worth the price tag if you coat a lot.
Rich, the reasons the guns arent lasting long is becsause of your use/cleaning process.
You can get 10+ uses out of the cheap guns. And maybe 500+ from the expensive gun if you maintain it. We use ours damn near daily cause there's always a bolt knob or two to coat.
We've used ours a lot and its showing no signs of wearing out and has no build up in it at all. Cleaning is a PITA though.
Reading the last line in your first post... there is no quick clean gun. They all have to be thoroughly cleaned if you want it to last.
If ever using C-series Cerakote, NEVER let the gun spray dry. When done spraying, pour the left over Cerakote back into the bottle and quickly pour acetone in the hopper.... never letting it dry up in there. Thats what ruins guns in 3 uses. That and missing areas inside the gun.
Iwata hands down. You dont realize how much better it is than the $30 ones until you use it. Worth the price tag if you coat a lot.
Rich, the reasons the guns arent lasting long is becsause of your use/cleaning process.
You can get 10+ uses out of the cheap guns. And maybe 500+ from the expensive gun if you maintain it. We use ours damn near daily cause there's always a bolt knob or two to coat.
We've used ours a lot and its showing no signs of wearing out and has no build up in it at all. Cleaning is a PITA though.
Reading the last line in your first post... there is no quick clean gun. They all have to be thoroughly cleaned if you want it to last.
If ever using C-series Cerakote, NEVER let the gun spray dry. When done spraying, pour the left over Cerakote back into the bottle and quickly pour acetone in the hopper.... never letting it dry up in there. Thats what ruins guns in 3 uses. That and missing areas inside the gun.
Re: Spray Gun
I don't see a model # on the box. Go to the link below and give NIC a call and ask them which model to get. They will help you out. Like I said. NIC will most likely charge more so shop around.
NIC (cerakote)
I don't see a model # on the box. Go to the link below and give NIC a call and ask them which model to get. They will help you out. Like I said. NIC will most likely charge more so shop around.
NIC (cerakote)
Re: Spray Gun
An Iwata LPH 80 should do everything you want for painting gun parts, runs around $325.00 at TCP Global or Dixie Art Supply. How long a paint gun last is entirely up to how you clean it. When you think you have it clean then run some more thinner thru it to make sure, it's a lot cheaper than a new paint gun. Doesn't matter what type paint you use, if it's Urethane, Epoxy or whatever if you don't get it all out your gun is toast no matter how much it cost. I buy the cheapest lacquer thinner that PPG makes to clean my guns with.
An Iwata LPH 80 should do everything you want for painting gun parts, runs around $325.00 at TCP Global or Dixie Art Supply. How long a paint gun last is entirely up to how you clean it. When you think you have it clean then run some more thinner thru it to make sure, it's a lot cheaper than a new paint gun. Doesn't matter what type paint you use, if it's Urethane, Epoxy or whatever if you don't get it all out your gun is toast no matter how much it cost. I buy the cheapest lacquer thinner that PPG makes to clean my guns with.
Re: Spray Gun
I have a $60 harbor freight gun that lasted through about 100 uses before it shit the bed and thats only because I got lazy here and there at the end.... this new one has sprayed 25 times or so and no flaws.... its all in the cleaning and care
I have a $60 harbor freight gun that lasted through about 100 uses before it shit the bed and thats only because I got lazy here and there at the end.... this new one has sprayed 25 times or so and no flaws.... its all in the cleaning and care
Re: Spray Gun
I paint cars so my demands are difrent but in my opinion you can't beat a sata. I have used devilbiss, iwata, and some cheaper guns and I always go back to the sata. For rigorous and long term hard work they are worth it. At home I use the klc primer gun for most small stuff. I think its about 250 or so.
I paint cars so my demands are difrent but in my opinion you can't beat a sata. I have used devilbiss, iwata, and some cheaper guns and I always go back to the sata. For rigorous and long term hard work they are worth it. At home I use the klc primer gun for most small stuff. I think its about 250 or so.
Re: Spray Gun
custom air brush
custom air brush
Re: Spray Gun
Here is ours. We used the cheap one NIC sells and it was okay but really cheaply made. With great care it would probable last a long time. We stepped up to their commercial grade gun and it is a dream to use. Very nice.
Here is ours. We used the cheap one NIC sells and it was okay but really cheaply made. With great care it would probable last a long time. We stepped up to their commercial grade gun and it is a dream to use. Very nice.
Re: Spray Gun
yeah get the LPH-80 with 1.2 fluid nozzle and the E4 air cap. part# LPH80-124G
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Spec/Vehicle/Solution/by-Application/PPS/
yeah get the LPH-80 with 1.2 fluid nozzle and the E4 air cap. part# LPH80-124G
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Spec/Vehicle/Solution/by-Application/PPS/
Re: Spray Gun
NIC specifies a .8 tip orfice. .8 seems plenty juicy. A larger tip ought to really hose it on.
NIC specifies a .8 tip orfice. .8 seems plenty juicy. A larger tip ought to really hose it on.
Re: Spray Gun
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hired Gun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">NIC specifies a .8 tip orfice. .8 seems plenty juicy. A larger tip ought to really hose it on.</div></div>
+1
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hired Gun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">NIC specifies a .8 tip orfice. .8 seems plenty juicy. A larger tip ought to really hose it on.</div></div>
+1
Re: Spray Gun
I paint custom stuff on motorcycles and use Iwata airbrushes and Sata mini jets for base coats and clear coat, you can't go wrong with either one. It comes down to just how much you will use the guns and how you clean them. I've used cheaper guns from Harbor Freight and they do casual work pretty well; it's all in how you clean them and you have to learn how to adjust them for the task at hand. I use Iwata's for metal flake and sometime for clear coat. An expensive gun or cheap gun is only as good as you clean it!
I paint custom stuff on motorcycles and use Iwata airbrushes and Sata mini jets for base coats and clear coat, you can't go wrong with either one. It comes down to just how much you will use the guns and how you clean them. I've used cheaper guns from Harbor Freight and they do casual work pretty well; it's all in how you clean them and you have to learn how to adjust them for the task at hand. I use Iwata's for metal flake and sometime for clear coat. An expensive gun or cheap gun is only as good as you clean it!
Re: Spray Gun
do you think there is much difference in the gravity fed vs siphon?
do you think there is much difference in the gravity fed vs siphon?
Tag
We have both iwata, sata, and the 3m pps.
The trick I've found is filling your cup with wash thinner and storing it wet. It prevents what little paint is left from curing and ruining the gun. Bout once a year we send them in for service. New packings, seals, etc...
The pps is nice, but it gets expensive. A case of bladders runs about a $100 bucks. Truthfully there's no real advantage because you still have to clean the gun. Your using such small quantities of paint so often that you burn through them pretty quick.
If gun cleaning is what kicks your but, try this. It's what my ppg rep showed me and it works pretty well.
first, understand that with a gravity fed gun paint only loiters in about 1 inch of the gun. From the cup to the horn it's a short distance.
No need to tear it down as this just leads to failure prematurely.
Dump your paint. I just hang it off the regulator into a garbage can so that it can bleed out. This works well for a number of reasons. A few ounces of paint drippings flashes the solvents off pretty quickly. The solvents are what's dangerous. Fire, fumes, etc. Allowing this to dry means you can pitch the bag and not have the guilt of killing the earth. Just be sure to take the garbage out. Cerakote is pretty harmless in this regard so it's not as big a deal. He paint stuff is a different matter though...
get a squeeze bottle full of wash thinner. You can use this instead of acetone. 5 gallons is 35 bucks here. Acetone just evaporates too fast and doesn't clean anything other than your wallet any better.
Open the needle all the way and start filling the orifice as you let it drain. Brush the inside a few times to get the big stuff. Repeat.
then flush till it runs clear.
pull the horn and toss it in your cup. Fill the res one more time with thinner. Let some bleed and brush the nozzle with a soft brush as it bleeds thinner.
Top off the cup with thinner, put the lid back on, and hang up the gun wet. Close the needle valve a bit to ensure spring tension is kept on the seat so that it doesn't leak.
3 to 5 minutes and your life is back to normal.
Hope this helps.
c.
The trick I've found is filling your cup with wash thinner and storing it wet. It prevents what little paint is left from curing and ruining the gun. Bout once a year we send them in for service. New packings, seals, etc...
The pps is nice, but it gets expensive. A case of bladders runs about a $100 bucks. Truthfully there's no real advantage because you still have to clean the gun. Your using such small quantities of paint so often that you burn through them pretty quick.
If gun cleaning is what kicks your but, try this. It's what my ppg rep showed me and it works pretty well.
first, understand that with a gravity fed gun paint only loiters in about 1 inch of the gun. From the cup to the horn it's a short distance.
No need to tear it down as this just leads to failure prematurely.
Dump your paint. I just hang it off the regulator into a garbage can so that it can bleed out. This works well for a number of reasons. A few ounces of paint drippings flashes the solvents off pretty quickly. The solvents are what's dangerous. Fire, fumes, etc. Allowing this to dry means you can pitch the bag and not have the guilt of killing the earth. Just be sure to take the garbage out. Cerakote is pretty harmless in this regard so it's not as big a deal. He paint stuff is a different matter though...
get a squeeze bottle full of wash thinner. You can use this instead of acetone. 5 gallons is 35 bucks here. Acetone just evaporates too fast and doesn't clean anything other than your wallet any better.
Open the needle all the way and start filling the orifice as you let it drain. Brush the inside a few times to get the big stuff. Repeat.
then flush till it runs clear.
pull the horn and toss it in your cup. Fill the res one more time with thinner. Let some bleed and brush the nozzle with a soft brush as it bleeds thinner.
Top off the cup with thinner, put the lid back on, and hang up the gun wet. Close the needle valve a bit to ensure spring tension is kept on the seat so that it doesn't leak.
3 to 5 minutes and your life is back to normal.
Hope this helps.
c.
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Sara minijets, devilbiss SRI, Iatta lph80. 0.6-0.8mm tip at the most. 3M pps and the other desposiable cups are used mostly for clean up, ability to store non catilized paint in the cup it was mixed and sprayed out if and the ability to spray with the gun at any angle. Keeping any gun you use clean is the most important thing in making any spray gun last.
Donald
Donald
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The thing i like about PPS is you can spray on any angle.
I use an Iwata Kustom TH it's the only air brush that I found that has a fan tip as well as a standard round pattern, it also has a traditional spray gun trigger as opposed to the normal top mount air brush trigger. The optional Custom Grip Handle is a must have in my opinion as well. It sprays like a dream.
http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/iwata-airbrushes/kustom-series/kustom-th/
http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/iwata-airbrushes/kustom-series/kustom-th/
Chad- I've got both the cheap HF guns and the Sata's. You're saying that leaving jug thinner in the gun won't wreck the seals? I'm cool with that, but just want some confirmation before I start doing it.
And finely atomized paint in the air will make your work look fuzzy. Sticks to anything like glue and the custom rifle you are building for your best customer looks as if it needs a shave
And finely atomized paint in the air will make your work look fuzzy. Sticks to anything like glue and the custom rifle you are building for your best customer looks as if it needs a shave
No thinner will not wreck the seals if left in the cup. However you should never soak the entire gun in thinner. The fluid passages can handle the thinner. However the packing material, fan controll and fluid adjustment screw can be damaged by soaking in thinner or getting paint residue inside of them. Hope that helps
Donald
Donald
Yes, but what about the packing nut on the back side of the fluid chamber? The packing nut that the paint needle goes through?
It's real simple. You fill the cup with some wash thinner. You pull the horn and plop it in the cup. Put the lid back on it, store it, and forget about it till the next time you need it.
When you need it again, dump out the thinner and burp it by running it on an air hose prior to painting. Make sure the cup is bone dry prior to filling it with paint.
4+years exactly like this and it's not ruined a single gun yet.
Every once in a great while the needle will get a little tight/sticky and the gun will be lazy to close off the valve. Pull the needle and wipe it down with thinner and a rag.
DO NOT give into the temptation to use scotchbrite. The little cross hatch pattern left on the needle will eat the packing nut at the back. You use a rag and thinner only. Once its clean, assemble and put a tiny drop of light oil right at the back of the nut. It won't hurt anything. -promise!
C.
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Purchased a paint gun washer, it's amazing how much money it saves and how clean it it'll make your paint guns in very little time.
A couple quick questions... what type of "wash thinner" do you use? is that the label on the shelf?
also, when you say "Brush the inside a few times to get the big stuff." you mean brush in the hole where the paint reservoir/cup had been screwed into, correct?
