Rifle Scopes Spuhr leveling system?
- Thread starter FS1
- Start date
In mostly cases I would say it works perfect, but I always recomend people to double check it, just like you should double check Everything else.
When the scope is mounted it's a really good idea to after the rifle is zeroed shoot a group at known distance, for example 100 meters/yards, then adjust the scope a for example 10 mil and shoot another group.
When shooting both groups make sure the scope is held horizontally.
After shooting second group check so the second group is excactly above the first group.
Also check so the distance betwen the two groups are excactly corresponding the adjustments you have made.
After that a boxshooting is also a good thing to check so the scope is tracking.
If you not have tested the scope under good circumstances and know it's performing, then you don't know if it will perform under stressed important circumstances.
And so far there is not one single company in the World who to 100% have avoided mondays....
There is a tolerance to the the axis movement of the knobs and there is also a tolerance to the reticles angle compared to the flat bottom of the scope or the top of the knob.
Some have very tight tolerances, other have sufficient tolerances and some have very many mondays.
Sometimes we happends to work on mondays to.....
Håkan
When the scope is mounted it's a really good idea to after the rifle is zeroed shoot a group at known distance, for example 100 meters/yards, then adjust the scope a for example 10 mil and shoot another group.
When shooting both groups make sure the scope is held horizontally.
After shooting second group check so the second group is excactly above the first group.
Also check so the distance betwen the two groups are excactly corresponding the adjustments you have made.
After that a boxshooting is also a good thing to check so the scope is tracking.
If you not have tested the scope under good circumstances and know it's performing, then you don't know if it will perform under stressed important circumstances.
And so far there is not one single company in the World who to 100% have avoided mondays....
There is a tolerance to the the axis movement of the knobs and there is also a tolerance to the reticles angle compared to the flat bottom of the scope or the top of the knob.
Some have very tight tolerances, other have sufficient tolerances and some have very many mondays.
Sometimes we happends to work on mondays to.....
Håkan
In mostly cases I would say it works perfect, but I always recomend people to double check it, just like you should double check Everything else.
When the scope is mounted it's a really good idea to after the rifle is zeroed shoot a group at known distance, for example 100 meters/yards, then adjust the scope a for example 10 mil and shoot another group.
When shooting both groups make sure the scope is held horizontally.
After shooting second group check so the second group is excactly above the first group.
Also check so the distance betwen the two groups are excactly corresponding the adjustments you have made.
After that a boxshooting is also a good thing to check so the scope is tracking.
If you not have tested the scope under good circumstances and know it's performing, then you don't know if it will perform under stressed important circumstances.
And so far there is not one single company in the World who to 100% have avoided mondays....
There is a tolerance to the the axis movement of the knobs and there is also a tolerance to the reticles angle compared to the flat bottom of the scope or the top of the knob.
Some have very tight tolerances, other have sufficient tolerances and some have very many mondays.
Sometimes we happends to work on mondays to.....
Håkan
Hakan, I have not yet mounted my optic, but I would like to say I am impressed with the craftmanship of the mount.
I do have a question my mount is SP-4616 and your site shows one for sale saying it is a 1.46 inch height. But when I go to your model number explanation page, the number says it is a 1.35 inch height? Which one is correct? and will it work for a S&B 5-25-56 on a pic rail. 20 moa cant.
Either height will work, but depending on barrel contour the 1.35" might kiss the barrel with the Butler Creek caps. Really depends on what rifle - others here might be able to tell you what height they run specifically. For all-around compatibility I think the 1.35" or 1.46" are good choices. The 1.18", not so much.
Just for reference, I use the 0 MOA 1.46" on my AX338 (30 MOA built-in on the rail) and the 44 MOA 1.35" on my AW308 (0 MOA on the rail). Tenebraex and Butler Creek caps, respectively.
Also, the Spuhr scope wedge works pretty well. I always true the bubble to the reticle though. Easy enough to take a beam level and draw a thin line on a target or piece of very flat cardboard at 50 or 100 yards to level-check off of.
Just for reference, I use the 0 MOA 1.46" on my AX338 (30 MOA built-in on the rail) and the 44 MOA 1.35" on my AW308 (0 MOA on the rail). Tenebraex and Butler Creek caps, respectively.
Also, the Spuhr scope wedge works pretty well. I always true the bubble to the reticle though. Easy enough to take a beam level and draw a thin line on a target or piece of very flat cardboard at 50 or 100 yards to level-check off of.
Barrel contour will not be an issue the pic rail extends out to the end of the forend. I bought the cantilever mount to be sure and keep the scope on the upper.
FS1
The SP4616 is now 1,5" height and was previously 1,46".
But all models that was 1,46" are now rised to 1,5"
Håkan
The SP4616 is now 1,5" height and was previously 1,46".
But all models that was 1,46" are now rised to 1,5"
Håkan
Not a fan of the wedge thingy. I prefer to mount the base, use the built-in level to get, and then adjust the reticle to be aligned with a plumb line or edge of building at 50-100 yards, then tighten rings. This way, the reticle is always calibrated to the built-in level.
Suggestion for Hakan: I think the wedge would work better if it were keyed with the slot so that it would be absolutely engaged properly with the base. Maybe an undercut in the slot and corresponding geometry in the wedge, then feed it into the slot from the tip. As it is, it's easy for it to become "off" without realizing it.
Suggestion for Hakan: I think the wedge would work better if it were keyed with the slot so that it would be absolutely engaged properly with the base. Maybe an undercut in the slot and corresponding geometry in the wedge, then feed it into the slot from the tip. As it is, it's easy for it to become "off" without realizing it.
