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Starting to Reload in 2024

Dxt

Private
Minuteman
Jan 23, 2024
4
1
SC
Have thought about reloading for several years, but now seems like the time to dive in.

I currently purchase custom ammo at a cost of $6-8 per shot.

Goal: To shoot more, focus on hunting accuracy, another hobby that can involve my kids. I have a 500 yard range on our hunting property.
Budget: $1k for upfront capital equipment, $500 for initial component purchase
What: 30-06; 7mm-08; will look to add 6.5cm at some point
I've read 2 manuals (Lyman & Hornady) and all of the Youtube videos showing process from start to finish, so I have an idea of what to expect.

Questions:
1) I can't find 180gr Berger bullets in 30-06 right now. Am I entering the hobby at a time that will leave me frustrated in finding components?
2) I have available space for a dedicated bench in my garage - Unsure if this is appropriate for component storage as well? I live in humid South Carolina.
3) Anything that would give you as an experienced reloader pause in starting from scratch in 2024?
4) Does my budget look appropriate?
 
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1) You will have some frustration to be sure but that is not a good reason not to start now, starting later wont alleviate the frustration and will only mean the prices will go up! You will be in the same boat as a lot of us, checking your favorite dealers daily or weekly for new berger shipments - hopefully they will catch up someday.

2) You may wish to consider storing powder elsewhere, humidity is not good for components, I use dehumidifiers in my reloading room but in a garage depending on size and how well its insulated from the elements that will likely not be enough.

3) Nope, would it have been better to start pre-pandemic - sure! but not an option, better to start today than tomorrow.
 
Thanks for the responses.

Not intended to save money, just looking to shoot more.
 
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Have thought about reloading for several years, but now seems like the time to dive in.

I currently purchase custom ammo at a cost of $6-8 per shot.

Goal: To shoot more, focus on hunting accuracy, another hobby that can involve my kids. I have a 500 yard range on our hunting property.
Budget: $1k for upfront capital equipment, $500 for initial component purchase
What
: 30-06; 7mm-08; will look to add 6.5cm at some point
I've read 2 manuals (Lyman & Hornady) and all of the Youtube videos showing process from start to finish, so I have an idea of what to expect.

Questions:
1) I can't find 180gr Berger bullets in 30-06 right now. Am I entering the hobby at a time that will leave me frustrated in finding components?
2) I have available space for a dedicated bench in my garage - Unsure if this is appropriate for component storage as well? I live in humid South Carolina.
3) Anything that would give you as an experienced reloader pause in starting from scratch in 2024?
4) Does my budget look appropriate?
Ha ha ha ha ha...... good one
 
If you are going to load and shoot more then you are going to need more money. Or, you aren't actually going to shoot much. If you are actually spending $6/ shot right now, then I don't know what you're shooting but shoot something else.

You "can" buy a bunch of cheap loading stuff and spend a grand but be prepared to spend a whole lot more time loading than shooting. I'd rethink it unless you are prepared to spend more on both. You are probably better off buying good ammo and selling the brass to those of us who are already down this rabbit hole and too deep to quit now

Ok, time for the "I use a beam scale and make excellent ammo very quickly " bunch to chime in now. I'm not trying to be a jerk, I'm serious. If you aren't prepared to spend more on both and shoot more, you're just better off buying ammo IMO
 
I started with a rcbs supreme master reloading kit in early 2000’s. When the rcbs 1500 chargemaster first hit the markets. Since then I’ve made many additions to my setup but aside from the 1500 crapping out and being replaced under warranty about 15 years ago my overall setup hasn’t changed. I still run the same scale, still run the rcbs rock chucker press, same trimmer etc etc.

Not having to rely on factory ammo is awesome. I can tune ammo to my gun. Then purchase most components off here at decent prices.

I have an entire room in my house dedicated to reloading and working on guns. So it’s a hobby of mine as well.

It will take a while to recoup costs. Which just get put into new equipment like an annealer etc. So don’t do it to save money primarily. What you’re paying per round however will add up quick on savings. Figure $5 a round savings at least. I’m still under $1 per round on my stuff. That’s bullet, powder, primer and figure at least 10 shots per Lapua case. Which is actually being conservative on the 308. Likely closer to 20 shots a case

Biggest factor is your time. What’s your time worth and will you enjoy reloading?

I don’t shoot prs. I shoot fclass and some matches like a team match and regionals will require 3 days of shooting and will require about 200 rounds to be safe. In this discipline you need to reload. You’re against competition flirting with bench rest accuracy. Factory ammo isn’t common here.

I’m very anal when it comes to my ammo. Every casing is measured, every round etc. All single stage press. It takes time. A match will take me about 8 hours in my reload room. At least. That part honestly keeps me from wanting to shoot more matches.

For my deer killing and steel banging guns I love it. Load 50-100 rounds at a time. Lots of it loaded during the winter.

Let’s say I shoot 300-500 rounds a year. If I save $1 a round. (Just throwing numbers out) with my Lapua I saved about $3 a round reloading. That’s on average $400 a year I save. Been reloading about 20 years

So theoretically on the conservative side I’ve saved $8,000. Just looking around my room I have the initial kit which was $800. Annealer which is $600. Then the dies and what not. Probably about $2000 into equipment for loading my typical calibers. I’m to the point now where an upgrade to an AMP, 21 century press, 419 zero etc would still have me money ahead.

It takes a while to make up the $$. But as a hobby alone I 100% recommend it. Plus making custom ammo tailored to your specific rifle will allow you to tune in the accuracy

I only load for precision ammo. AR15’s or pistols I use factory but don’t shoot those much. I load 223, 6.5, 260, 308, 284, 300 WM typically
 
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Basic, yet fully functional and good quality setup…

RCBS Rock Chucker Press
RCBS Chargemaster powder dispenser
powder funnel
RCBS reloading block
Hornady or Redding dies
Berrys tumbler and media separator
Worlds Finest Trimmer 2 in the calibers you reload
Decent calipers
Lyman chamfer, deburr, & primer pocket tool
Tin of imperial case lube

Whatever brass, primer, powder and bullet combo floats your boat.

Don’t buy a premade reload kit, they all suck.
 
That is a nice, basic kit that ZA206 provided. I would add a Hornady headspace comparator kit, as measuring brass headspace can really help eliminate some headaches.

Premium bullets, brass, and podwer will cost premium prices. Berger is premium, but I have shot plenty of 1/2" groups with the mid grade stuff from Hornady, Nosler, Barnes, Winchester, etc. For practice ammo, match bullets work really well and can be more common to find.
 
Basic, yet fully functional and good quality setup…

RCBS Rock Chucker Press
RCBS Chargemaster powder dispenser
powder funnel
RCBS reloading block
Hornady or Redding dies
Berrys tumbler and media separator
Worlds Finest Trimmer 2 in the calibers you reload
Decent calipers
Lyman chamfer, deburr, & primer pocket tool
Tin of imperial case lube

Whatever brass, primer, powder and bullet combo floats your boat.

Don’t buy a premade reload kit, they all suck.
THank you! Here is the list of items i've put together as an initial purchase:

FunctionVendorPriceLink
PressRCBS Rebel Single
$270​
Die SetHornady 30.06 2 Die
$120​
Depriming DieLee Universal
$15​
Priming ToolRCBS Hand Priming
$60​
Powder ScaleRCBS Chargemaster Link
$300​
Powder TricklerFrankford Arsenal
$25​
Powder FunnelLee
$5​
CaliperHornady Caliper 6"
$50​
Prep Multi ToolLyman
$35​
Flash HoleLyman Uniformer Tool
$20​
LubeImperial Case Sizing Wax
$16​
TrayLyman Reloading Tray x 2
$16​
Bullet BoxMTM 60 Count
$10​
 
At least get the FA hand primer. It's waaaaay better than the Lee, rcbs, and Hornady. Also, Saturn funnel is much better. The Lyman Funnel Kit is great for the money too and it will do all calibers.
 
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Hand Primer - Spend $20 more and get a Frankford Arsenal
You need the Hornady Ogive & Case Length Comparators
You need a way to clean your brass
I'd start with the aerosol Hornady one shot case lube, it's easier to learn with (but still get that imperial wax to have on hand)

Don't buy a Hornady caliper, you're over paying for the name
You don't need the universal decapper
You shouldn't need the flash hole uniformer, but that depends on the brass you'll be using

edit - also, the best deal available will likely never be at MidwayUSA
 
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I second OneShot spray for case lube, and I would add to look in the PX here for a used ChargeMaster. They're typically readily available as people upgrade to fancier things.
 
Hand Primer - Spend $20 more and get a Frankford Arsenal
You need the Hornady Ogive & Case Length Comparators
You need a way to clean your brass
I'd start with the aerosol Hornady one shot case lube, it's easier to learn with (but still get that imperial wax to have on hand)

Don't buy a Hornady caliper, you're over paying for the name
You don't need the universal decapper
You shouldn't need the flash hole uniformer, but that depends on the brass you'll be using

edit - also, the best deal available will likely never be at MidwayUSA

This is helpful. What other sites do you recommend?
 
Precision Reloading
Midsouth Shooters Supply

Natchez
Grafs
Brownells
Midway

I usually stick to the first two if at all possible. I'm definitely forgetting a couple that are good. Then there are some like Blue Collar that are oriented more towards advanced reloaders.
 
I would look for a RCBS Rock Chucker press. Sometimes there's sales on them. Those things last forever. I've seen them go as low as $150. Bass Pro has them on sale for $189
Primer seating system: I prefer the RCBS bench primer tool. Those are going for around $130 right now
For calipers I prefer the Mitutoyo calipers. Those go for $100 or so
Wet tumbling, I'd look at Frankfort Arsenal wet tumbling kit.
Powder measuring: This is way outside your budget, but I'd invest in an AutoTrickler or SuperTrickler system. I wish I'd just started off with the best instead of upgrading to it. I would have saved so much money.
For dies, I use whidden dies. They come with the case shoulder bump gauge in the die.
Case trimming: I'm not completely happy with what I'm running. I'm running the L E Wilson case trimmer. I'll eventually upgrade at some point.
 
Have thought about reloading for several years, but now seems like the time to dive in.

I currently purchase custom ammo at a cost of $6-8 per shot.

Goal: To shoot more, focus on hunting accuracy, another hobby that can involve my kids. I have a 500 yard range on our hunting property.
Budget: $1k for upfront capital equipment, $500 for initial component purchase
What: 30-06; 7mm-08; will look to add 6.5cm at some point
I've read 2 manuals (Lyman & Hornady) and all of the Youtube videos showing process from start to finish, so I have an idea of what to expect.

Questions:
1) I can't find 180gr Berger bullets in 30-06 right now. Am I entering the hobby at a time that will leave me frustrated in finding components?
2) I have available space for a dedicated bench in my garage - Unsure if this is appropriate for component storage as well? I live in humid South Carolina.
3) Anything that would give you as an experienced reloader pause in starting from scratch in 2024?
4) Does my budget look appropriate?

I just worked up up a cost per round for 303 british on the surplus forum a few weeks ago.

I can say with you saying you buy "custom" ammo at 6-8 per bang you can save money. Me being a hard core fudd I am a little worried about this "custom" ammo. One of the golden rules around reloading is don't reload for anyone else, goes right with never shoot anyone else's reloads.

Here is a mindless cut and past from the Surplus forum (gunboards) that I did up. It is NOT anything for long range, just plinking with old british rifles.

It will give you a good rundown on costs.

The reloading equipment itself can go as deep into the pool as you want to go. If you want to be at the top level of the long range game, I think that having the additional tools will help, but like most things you need to have the base skills down.

Personally I would start with a "kit" from any of the big players, including Lee buy yourself one GOOD additional scale for your powder and go to town. Having the basic tools I have a feeling you will hit close to where your "custom" ammo is hitting for much less a price.

But yes it is a hobby, some people just don't like to do it. If you happen to be one of those people, nothing bad, everyone has different likes.

Here is the thing I worked up over there.



------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Nope.

I hand load all my old girls, French, Japanese, British, even old US military and sporting cartridges like 30-40 and 30 Rem.

The out of production cartridges are a no brainer, you are never going to find new production of 351WSL on the shelf anywhere.

Screw it I am eating lunch, lets do the math.

1706030976641-png.4192948



They list .84 per, but we all know brass is not a one and done type thing. The general views are 5 reloading's out of a case, but that can be extended easy, or made shorter depending on the rifle, some autos are hell on brass.

So we are down to .18 over the 5 reloads.

Bullets, we are not going to do anything special so lets pick a good inexpensive bullet, I have had good luck with these.
1706031287810-png.4192950


So we are at .39 per for the bullets, we are currently sitting at .56.

Now we need a primer.

Out of stock everywhere, glad I have a stash, but seems like we are into a ball park of 120 per thousand
1706031478384-png.4192953


So lets add on another .12 for a primer, now we are sitting at .68

Now we need powder,
1706031667255-png.4192954



Now 7000 grains per pound, that comes out to .00814 per grain, lets just call is a penny a grain to make math easy.
1706031818771-png.4192955



Lets split the difference and say 46 grains in our load, that brings us to the grand total of.....

$1.14 per round.

Now what does it cost to buy loaded rounds.

1706031956120-png.4192962



I left one "surplus" listing in there, but skipped most of them. If you have a love affair for corrosive ammo we don't need to continue this discussion, have a nice day.

We are landing at a price of $1.20 per round for store bought vs. $1.14 for a roll your own. A wash in my book. .06 is not a big deal.

But what else do you get for that time and effort spent on hand loading. Well you have a bullet choice, you could spend those extra pennies on "better" bullets. You can also tailor your load in every way possible. You don't like varget, use 4895, or anything else, you have the choice. You want your COAL to be 2.919 so be it, or 2.88 go for it. You can make that ammo fit your specific rifle perfect, like a politicians suit. However unlike a politician you will see a difference between off the rack and your custom loads.


The "you won't save anything" is the age old cry of people that can't or will not reload.

Did I factor in the other equipment, nope, not sure how I would do that. I have had my stuff for over 20 years and have loaded who knows how many thousands of rounds in that time. I don't think a number can be put on that. Plus it IS a hobby. You do it for fun, and you really feel like you did something when you go from a basketball group to a softball group. YOU did that, YOU made it shoot that much better. YOUR skill brought the most out of that rifle.

That is something that money can't buy.
 
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Keep in mind that if you end up sticking with reloading you will most likely end up up-grading most of the stuff you buy now on a budget so do not be afraid to look at Lee reloading equipment and dies...are they the best no....will they get you started and keep you going for a few years as your learning, make accurate rounds and save you a bunch of money to spend on reloading components...yes without a doubt.
 
A few thoughts from someone who started shotshell reloading in the 1960s, metallic in the '70s, and precision rifle in 2018.
  • The younger you are, the longer you have to amortize equipment. Presses and dies do indeed last pretty much forever with minimal maintenance. It's all well and good to look for deals... but, aside from the initial hit, what difference will saving $50 today mean 10-20 years down the road?
  • Caliper: buy a good one; you'll use it constantly. Mitutoyo is popular here. I have an old-school Brown&Sharpe dial caliper that I grudgingly paid $125 for... and I use it all.the.time. $$$ well spent.
  • Scale: Chargemaster and such is a decent start, I guess. I went from a '70s-vintage Ohaus beam scale to the popular A&D FX-120i. Huge jump. Worth the $$. I will note, though, that I have NOT invested (yet) in an autotrickler driven by the FX-120i. I'd probably love it if I did... but I use a Dillon powder measure, drop a tenth light, and trickle to +/-0.02 grain. Chargemaster does all that... just not as accurately.
  • You need something to clean your brass. I use corncob media with Lyman Case-Brite or whatever the cleaner is in a '70s-vintage Lyman vibratory tumbler. Some people wet tumble. I don't like it. Other people tumble with stainless-steel pins... which beat the shit out of case mouths. They all work. My way is cheap and easy and has worked for over four decades.
  • You do NOT need to clean primer pockets or fiddle with creating the perfect flash hole unless you're doing benchrest... which you won't with those calibers.
  • Powder: Somebody above said Varget fo '06 and similar. Well, sure. Varget's great, if you can find it and don't mind paying $50-60 per pound for it. Look at Vihtavuori powders... not hard to find and much cheaper.
  • Bullets: Yeah, Bergers are great. But, at this stage of your journey, Hornady, Sierra, Barnes, etc. are easier to find, cheaper, and will be as accurate as your platform allows. I started shooting 6BR last year. I've tried Berger, Barnes, Hornady, and Lapua bullets. I got a PILE of Barnes Match Burners cheap from a Berger-loving buddy of mine... my rifle loves them and rings the 12-inch plate at 1000 yards as well as the Bergers... albeing with haf to three-quarters of a mil more "up."
  • Brass: you've probably got a good pile of once-fired stuff; great to start with. If you get into "precision," you'll look toward having brass from single lots. If you're shooting '06 and 7mm-08, you're probably shooting field rifles and lot-sorting brass will be of minimal benefit. You just need to stay at a mild enough load that brass lot variances won't bump you into pressure issues. Many people here prefer Lapua brass as the best available, along with Peterson, Alpha, and a few others. Here's a thing: I use less-expensive Starline for my practice brass, and it's been great. Its measured tolerances are as good as the higher-tier labels. Now, whether it lasts as many loadings...? I don't know. I haven't worn any of it out yet with seven or so loadings on hundreds of pieces.
This could go on for pages. You've "consumed" your reloading manuals. That's a great way to start.

One last thing. You want to shoot more? You're shooting 500 yards? Get a .223 before you mess with a 6.5CM. Cheaper to load, stupid accurate, much better barrel life than the 6.5CM.

My $.02.
 
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Keep in mind that if you end up sticking with reloading you will most likely end up up-grading most of the stuff you buy now on a budget so do not be afraid to look at Lee reloading equipment and dies...are they the best no....will they get you started and keep you going for a few years as your learning, make accurate rounds and save you a bunch of money to spend on reloading components...yes without a doubt.

I have been reloading on the same lee press for over 20 years. I also have two shotgun presses, one 16 a MEC and one 20 Lee load all. The lee seems cheap as all hell, but I will be damned if the fool thing just keeps on going. I also have RCBS, hornady, gear. I have tried about everything, but kept going back to the old standby.

There is a VERY large "ford vs. chevy" thing in the world of reloading. A great many people think that unless your equipment is of a specific color you are running garbage, or a specific color is just not that good. BS.

Only thing I ever had bust is an impact bullet puller (yellow) and the handle on one of the metallic presses (green) sucker just snapped in two on a hand gun cartridge no less. RCBS sent me another no questions asked.

If you get one from the major players chances are it will last you a good long time.

I still look at presses now and again as I always forget to put away the shell holder. Crap what was it that I was loading last time....I don't remember, where does this shell holder go.....in the box with the others. Where is my 7mm holder....oh yea that loose box. Now what one is for you...nope, nope....there you are. I will remember to put you up this time......nope never do.
 
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I personally like the tool linked below vs the longer type. Find it easier to hold/turn in hand because of its shorter size. You could also spring for a rcbs case prep center as well. You’ll also want a brush for the inside of the necks

Also add a trimmer
IMG_6219.png
 
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My list:

Bench source annealer
Frankfort arsenal tumbler
Rcbs rock chucker press
Rcbs case trimmer
Rcbs case prep center or hand tool
Caliper (I have FA and rcbs) both work well
Rcbs hand primer
Rcbs 1500 chargemaster
Frankfort arsenal case lube
Frankfort arsenal reloading trays
Hornady OAL comparator and inserts

For dies my preference is Redding body die and Lee collet die. I’ve also used rcbs/redding/forester and a few others. I keep coming back to the lee collet die/redding body combo

I don’t use a trickler. I use a small scooper that came with some dies a while back. If chargemaster over throws I take a couple kernels out then tap the chargemaster stem to trickle some in. The chargemaster also has a trickle feature on the system itself

For components:

Primers- CCI 200/250/BR2
Powder- IMR 4064 (308) H4350 (260 and 300)
Bullets- Berger, SMK or Hornady ELDX

Brass
IMG_4384.jpeg
 
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Loading can become as addictive as shooting. The calibers you list are very cost effective to load. You may want to consider a Redding T7 as your first press.

Loading match grade ammo at 1/2 the cost is nice.

Once you get going, 2 things will dramatically increase your cost. Increased production capacity and specialized tools chasing accuracy. The rabbit hole is deep.

Last tip that will save you time and money. Start with Lapua brass. 100 pieces for each gun and mtm plastic cases for loaded rounds.
Keep detailed records of loads and how many times each piece of brass has been fired. With a bolt gun that brass will last a long time.
 
OP, I'd still recommend the Rock Chucker Supreme over the Rebel. I think the Hornday LNL Iron press is better than either of the RCBS presses and is only like $30 more. Big upgrade in features and expandability, uses the LNL bushings so its almost as fast as a turret press and has a nice priming system so you wouldn't need a hand primer.

You are going to need a way to clean brass, I recommend just getting a dry tumbler to start (you'll almost always use one even if you get into wet tumbling later). Berrys is the best bang for the buck IMO. I've had two of the Frankford Arsenal ones... they are loud as hell and kinda suck.

This one is great and is only $20 more than the POS FA one.

-ZA
 
OP, I'd still recommend the Rock Chucker Supreme over the Rebel. I think the Hornday LNL Iron press is better than either of the RCBS presses and is only like $30 more. Big upgrade in features and expandability, uses the LNL bushings so its almost as fast as a turret press and has a nice priming system so you wouldn't need a hand primer.

You are going to need a way to clean brass, I recommend just getting a dry tumbler to start (you'll almost always use one even if you get into wet tumbling later). Berrys is the best bang for the buck IMO. I've had two of the Frankford Arsenal ones... they are loud as hell and kinda suck.

This one is great and is only $20 more than the POS FA one.

-ZA
I’ll back up the tumbler recommendation. I have the FA and it works. But rattles like a mf. It’s in my basement because it’s so annoying
 
OP, be prepared to spend a lot more than $1,000 just to get started. I love reloading because I can make better ammo cheaper, but I don’t want you spend hours to read 100rds. But to get started it’s not cheap. Could you get started under 1k, yes. But you’ll be loading very slowly and inefficiently. If I couldn’t turn out 500-600 pistol rounds an hour, I wouldn’t do it. I can do about 350-400 556 an hour.

I loaded on a single stage, until I needed 1000rds for my first pistol class. After that, I went and got a Dillon 650 and haven’t looked back.
 
OP, be prepared to spend a lot more than $1,000 just to get started. I love reloading because I can make better ammo cheaper, but I don’t want to spend hours to read 100rds. But to get started it’s not cheap. Could you get started under 1k, yes. But you’ll be loading very slowly and inefficiently. If I couldn’t turn out 500-600 pistol rounds an hour, I wouldn’t do it. I can do about 350-400 556 an hour.

I loaded on a single stage, until I needed 1000rds for my first pistol class. After that, I went and got a Dillon 650 and haven’t looked back.
 
I personally like the tool linked below vs the longer type. Find it easier to hold/turn in hand because of its shorter size. You could also spring for a rcbs case prep center as well. You’ll also want a brush for the inside of the necks

Also add a trimmer
View attachment 8338261

Is that for deburring the inside of the case mouth? You wrote,
easier to hold/turn in hand because of its shorter size
Do you literally hold it in your hand, stick it in the case mouth, and start twisting?

How well does that work?

I was looking to buy one that I stick in an electric drill.
 
Is that for deburring the inside of the case mouth? You wrote,

Do you literally hold it in your hand, stick it in the case mouth, and start twisting?

How well does that work?

I was looking to buy one that I stick in an electric drill.
Yes that’s how it works. Inside and outside. I twist back and forth with the casing in one hand and the tool in the other. Easy peasy
 
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I much much prefer the case prep center. Lyman makes one that I like and use, but FA makes one and so does rcbs. Much much better
 
OP, be prepared to spend a lot more than $1,000 just to get started. I love reloading because I can make better ammo cheaper, but I don’t want to spend hours to read 100rds. But to get started it’s not cheap. Could you get started under 1k, yes. But you’ll be loading very slowly and inefficiently. If I couldn’t turn out 500-600 pistol rounds an hour, I wouldn’t do it. I can do about 350-400 556 an hour.

I loaded on a single stage, until I needed 1000rds for my first pistol class. After that, I went and got a Dillon 650 and haven’t looked back.

The thing is you don't have to spend over a $1000. You can do it with a single stage. And in a rifle game you generally are not burning 200 rounds per event.

During all my CMP shooting I did everything for three different rifles on a turret press I ran like a single stage. The wife would always shoot a M1 carbine, The son started shooting a carbine, then moved to an AR. And I shot just whatever the hell I felt like on a given day. I doubt I shot the same rifle twice. IIRC 50 rounds is for CMP, so I had to have a total of 150 rounds. I generally would have two boxes for each rifle for sighters and such, but I only HAD to have 50 for each rifle.

I load slow, I could do that in a couple nights after work. I did that up to the point where it hurt to get up and down and quit playing that game.

My point is you are not forced to spend that much. I did do a couple hand gun games and the round count does go way up, but I was the only one playing that game, the wife shot a 22 rim fire, and the kid had moved out by then, so it was still just an evening of making 45acp.....yea I had to shoot a 1911, anyone that takes a trapdoor to a CMP match is stuck with a specific genre of hardware.

My advice to the OP is, look realistic at what you are doing, and have a real good understanding on what you want to do. And if you ever think you will actually do that. Then if the game you are looking to play, learn what goes into it. Like CMP is only 50 rounds. That does not take long on even a single stage.

Eh point is you can spend as much as you want to.
 
If I would have to start again, I would directly buy a L.E Wilson trimmer and not fuss with the WFTs. That trimmer is a real pleasure to trim with and is really precise with the micrometer adjustment. Seem expensive, but in the end, if you buy several trimmer body it can add up quickly.

I would also put my RCBS bench priming tool right in the trash (I am about to sell it instead). I had issues for years with it, and the primer seating depth is all over the place. Maybe I have a lemon, who knows...

I started with almost the same budget (~1200USD), and after only 2 years of reloading I probably spent 3 times that amount.
 
If I would have to start again, I would directly buy a L.E Wilson trimmer and not fuss with the WFTs. That trimmer is a real pleasure to trim with and is really precise with the micrometer adjustment. Seem expensive, but in the end, if you buy several trimmer body it can add up quickly.

I would also put my RCBS bench priming tool right in the trash (I am about to sell it instead). I had issues for years with it, and the primer seating depth is all over the place. Maybe I have a lemon, who knows...

I started with almost the same budget (~1200USD), and after only 2 years of reloading I probably spent 3 times that amount.
Just a quick question. With the problems you had with the RCBS priming tool, what do you recommend to replace it. Thanks.
 
The FA hand primer is very good and you can set the depth and it's as consistent as your casing are because it is based on Shell holder holding it and setting depth of primer off that. With lapua brass its not an issue because they are pretty consistent and the only one that is halfway quick that doesn't work off of shell holder is the Lee ACP which is discontinued and hard to get. It's pretty good once you get it set up though. It will cost around $200 but for OP's purposes, the FA hand primer is a great option. I have 3 of them and never an issue
 
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Just a quick question. With the problems you had with the RCBS priming tool, what do you recommend to replace it. Thanks.
I just bought a LEE Automatic Case Primer Press. It's discontinued but you can still find a few of them around. There is some posts here about the merit of this press, especially regarding it's accuracy vs cost ratio. I don't have it yet, but I hope i will be able to do some testing soon.
 
I just bought a LEE Automatic Case Primer Press. It's discontinued but you can still find a few of them around. There is some posts here about the merit of this press, especially regarding it's accuracy vs cost ratio. I don't have it yet, but I hope i will be able to do some testing soon.
Curious where you found it?
 
Answer to question 1 - yes, maybe. I started last year. 9mm, 40 S&W, 45 ACP. I didn't necessarily get the components I wanted, but had to settle for what was available. Keep a constant eye on LGS, and the internet. Buy stuff you want when it comes up, even if you don't need it right then. It's worked out pretty good for me, though components are a huge expense. I knew going in I wouldn't save money, but was just looking for a winter hobby.
 
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If I would have to start again, I would directly buy a L.E Wilson trimmer and not fuss with the WFTs. That trimmer is a real pleasure to trim with and is really precise with the micrometer adjustment. Seem expensive, but in the end, if you buy several trimmer body it can add up quickly.

I would also put my RCBS bench priming tool right in the trash (I am about to sell it instead). I had issues for years with it, and the primer seating depth is all over the place. Maybe I have a lemon, who knows...

I started with almost the same budget (~1200USD), and after only 2 years of reloading I probably spent 3 times that amount.
Again I would say it depends on what you want to do and what your interests are.

Currently working on 351WSL These are made from 357max cases. How would your trimmer take care of that.

I personally don't know, and by reading the page I still don't know. But I do know with a "normal" trimmer I can get to where I need to be.

I admit I am a bit of an odd duck here and not doing your long range game. But my point is, I could if I...well could with what I have. However I don't think I am going to be making any 11mm BP rounds with your trimmer.

What I am saying is really look at what you are interested in, none of the stuff out there is "cheap". Just know if you do choose to go with a very specialized machine, you might be looking at yet another machine if you go off into the weeds.